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Old 07-13-11, 12:04 PM   #1
wayback
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Replacing Gyromaster hub cartridge bearings

Got a Gyromaster front hub and the 629NK bearings are badly rusted. Need replacements. The axle is fixed to the hub, probably held in place by internal c-clips.

Before I start calling around, can a competent LBS press out the old c-clipped cartridges without damaging the hub?

Where can I buy new cartridges? Called the nearest bearing distributor and the guy I talked to wouldn't try to locate 'em.

Do the replacements have to be 629NK? Would 629ZZ or 629RS bearings work just as well?

Last edited by wayback; 07-13-11 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 07-13-11, 12:52 PM   #2
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Pics of hubs? I've never seen sealed cartridge hub axles held in place by c-clips. Are you the axle isnt just stuck?
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Old 07-13-11, 01:25 PM   #3
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Hey Jim. Nothing unusual is visible from the outside.

I flooded the hub with WD-40 a few weeks ago and its still dribbling out. The axle spins freely and there's just enough in and out play to suggest its being anchored internally.

Here's where I learned about the "NK" c-clips: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ridge-bearings

Guess its possible the axle is being held in by corrosion, but I'm thinking the clips are a more likely cause. I could pry out the rubber seals and possibly see if the clips are in there. However, I'd like to be certain I can get new cartridges before damaging the seals.

Haven't been able to locate new 629NK bearings anywhere.
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Old 07-13-11, 02:28 PM   #4
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The axle has a shoulder, it won't come out without removing the bearings. To remove the bearing hit the end of the axle with a brass or some kind of soft mallet, you don't want to jack up the threads. With a little luck the bearing will come out in one piece. If the bearing blows apart, knock the rest of it out with a screwdriver and hammer.
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Old 07-13-11, 02:49 PM   #5
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Thanks Brian.

Now that I know there's potential destruction involved, its important that I have replacement bearings lined up ahead of time. Do you know if 629Z, ZZ, RS, or 2RS bearings can be substituted for the original 629NR cartridges?
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Old 07-13-11, 03:06 PM   #6
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You might find this thread interesting:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ridge-bearings

Also, trying to pull up the link provided for National Precision was bad, but doing a brief search found this:
http://www.nationalprecision.com/bal...tra_small.html

From what I recall, the trailing letters define the seal types and configuration.
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Old 07-13-11, 03:10 PM   #7
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Here's a good one:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ight=detergent
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Old 07-13-11, 04:03 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info guys. Looks like the c-clips are more closely related to the seals than the axle.

My reading so far leads me to believe Gyromaster hub cartridges have seals on one side only. Is this correct? 629-2RS double-sealed bearings are much more common; wouldn't they also get the job done?
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Old 08-09-11, 09:05 PM   #9
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Just in case anybody will go to this (useful) thread for information: I just pulled apart Sunshine Gyromaster front hub from 1980 Fuji S12-S LTD and found 629 bearings, front rubber seal marked '629 LB', rear metal seal marked '629 Z'. Obviously, they are sealed on both sides. No idea what those letters mean, they do not seem to correspond to modern conventions.

Axle is held in place by some friction and some (optional) rust. No C-clips. Mine took some quick soaking on WD-40 and gentle blows from rubber mallet. Rubber seal from the bearings was quickly and easily removed by one of the 'picks' from set I bought in car parts store long time ago; that pick has 2 angled straight bends in it, and works perfect for application.

I wish I had a bearing puller called Enduro V-Puller (http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id61.html), because one of the bearings is firmly stuck in the hub and I have to simply clean it in place (Other bearing came out with the axle). Will get that puller one day, for next cleaning/replacement.

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Old 08-10-11, 07:02 PM   #10
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Well, now that I am trying to take apart rear hub, I have a question.

What do you do if hub, bearings and axle are all rusted together so well that not-so-gentle blows with rubber hammer take absolutely no effect?

I am soaking it in PB Blaster now, hoping that it will loosen it some. If worst comes to worst, I will clean and relube it 'in situ', but I would prefer more complete overhaul...
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Old 08-10-11, 07:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by olek View Post
Well, now that I am trying to take apart rear hub, I have a question.

What do you do if hub, bearings and axle are all rusted together so well that not-so-gentle blows with rubber hammer take absolutely no effect?
...
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Old 08-10-11, 07:37 PM   #12
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Aha... thanks... I have pretty much exact pictured setup available in my garage...
But I bet that means that I better have replacement bearings at hand...
And... is't it going to anneal (soften) the axle? After all, I am planning for that thing to be ridden, not hung on a wall...
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Old 08-10-11, 07:47 PM   #13
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Make sure that the wheel is on something solid when you hit it with the mallet, like a vice opened just wide enouigh to let the bearing slip out, dont be afraid to hit it hard
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Old 08-10-11, 08:33 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by olek View Post
Aha... thanks... I have pretty much exact pictured setup available in my garage...
But I bet that means that I better have replacement bearings at hand...
And... is't it going to anneal (soften) the axle? After all, I am planning for that thing to be ridden, not hung on a wall...
When I had this problem, I warmed the hub pretty good (enough to cook whatever lube remained) and then the impossibly difficult to remove bearings popped right out with minimal effort. Of course both bearings were toast for lack of lube, but nothing got cherry red.
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Old 08-11-11, 07:54 AM   #15
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Big thanks for ideas, guys! I think I will let it soak in PB Blaster a bit, then place it over something solid, and whack it really good. If that will not work, I will just grease bearings as is, and will repeat it with the torch later, when I have replacement bearings at hand.

BTW - front bearings after a treatment of fresh grease feel very smooth...

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Old 08-11-11, 08:07 AM   #16
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Do the replacements have to be 629NK? Would 629ZZ or 629RS bearings work just as well?

When dealing with Roller Bearings of this type it is better to have the old one to mic because the center hole can be Standard or Metric, the letters behind the numbers refer to the type of seals that are used, ZZ = metal shielded, RS = Rubber Shielded. If it's possible I like to use double rubber shielded bearings for wheels when I can, don't use the ZZ metal shielded in wheel hubs as they don't work good fighting off moisture.
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Old 08-11-11, 08:26 AM   #17
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Definitely go with 2RS seals if possible, and 1RS as backup (with the seal side facing out) if you can't find 2RS in your bearing size. 2RS is what most modern cartridge bearing hubs spec. However, it won't affect the mechanics of the hub, strictly the moisture resistance.
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Old 08-11-11, 09:11 AM   #18
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What press is recommended for installation of cartridge bearings?
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Old 08-11-11, 10:58 AM   #19
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I believe that usually they go in with just finger pressure if hubs are clean and lubricated, certainly was in my case. Now, to get them out is a different issue, I would be more interested in some kind of elegant puller to save all the hammering, soaking and torching... Maybe when overhaul happens frequently (once a year?) it would be easy thing to do with finger pressure as well, but it my case bearings were there for 31 years...
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Old 08-11-11, 08:58 PM   #20
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Update: soaking in PB Blaster was not very productive, but moving whole setup (2 wooden blocks and clamp) to the concrete floor allowed bearing/axle to come out on the first blow. Brilliant idea about solid base, thanks!

Bad news is that when I tried to knock out other bearing out of the hub(unsuccessfully), it got indexed, and did not come out. For now I lubricated it and called it a day (it works, but is a bit rough), but will need to come back to it later with new bearings in hand, and either puller or a torch to get that stuck cartridge out.

Just for information, rear bearings were of '6200 LB' type.

Huge thanks for help and ideas!
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Old 08-11-11, 09:55 PM   #21
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I just did this with a 1990 Fisher Procaliber. It works.

http://www.br00klyn.org/images/parts...4-1991-pg1.JPG

http://www.br00klyn.org/images/parts...4-1991-pg2.JPG
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