New 27" Alloy Wheels or 700c Conversion?
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New 27" Alloy Wheels or 700c Conversion?
I have a '74 Raleigh Grand Prix, all original except the saddle and back wheel. I was riding home from a 20 mike ride when I hit a pot hole going 20mph (that or riding into traffic lol), upon inspection I noticed my back had a huge dent in it. I just shrugged it off since it was some cheap Japanese wheel, but then a mike later my hub started clunking. When I got home I took apart the freewheel and hub and found out my axle broke.
So anyway, should I try to find an alloy 27" wheelset (if so, where?) or should I get a pair of 700c's? I've read about people with the old weinmann centerpull brakes being able to get it to work out.
So anyway, should I try to find an alloy 27" wheelset (if so, where?) or should I get a pair of 700c's? I've read about people with the old weinmann centerpull brakes being able to get it to work out.
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A 700c wheel is only a little smaller than a 27" wheel, so if you have enough space to adjust your brakes out, you can make the switch. Most bikes in this era have long spaces to move the calipers and pads up and down.
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https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html or https://www.bicyclewheels.com/merchan...egory_Code=R27 for some stock 27" wheels
or go custom: https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html
Velocity has three 27" rims: https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=592
or go custom: https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels/630.html
Velocity has three 27" rims: https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=592
#4
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Switching to 700C would give you a larger selection for tires, but would cost more as you would also need to replace tires/tubes, etc. The Panaracer Paselas that everyone around here seems to love are available in 27", so that may not be much of an issue for you. You could of course just replace the back wheel with another 27" (sounds like you or someone already had once anyhow) for possibly the cheapest repair. If you have any swap meets around, you might check there first.
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Post a WTB ad on your local craigslist for a 27 inch rear wheel that is in good shape. That should get you a few replies for a reasonable price.
#6
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Local Bike Shop perhaps? to find/order new 630 rims ,
or the parts for a 622 change over..
It's a 4mm radius drop, so brake pads just need that much adjustment towards
the hub axis.
or the parts for a 622 change over..
It's a 4mm radius drop, so brake pads just need that much adjustment towards
the hub axis.
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Thanks for the responses! I'll check out Craigslist and some of the links above if I decide to get another 27" set. I am also going to be upgrading the front and rear derailleurs, so that got me thinking, if I'm going to upgrade those why not get 700's with an 8 speed rear cassette keeping the 2 in the front. I know some people will say why would I put money in an old lower end 10-speed, but the bike fits me perfect, it's confortable and it has a lot of memories to me. It's going to be my daily commuter so that's the only reason I would get 700's.
Enough of that lol, here's a picture of my brakes and wheel. I think I'd be able to ride 700's with them
Sorry for the dirt
Enough of that lol, here's a picture of my brakes and wheel. I think I'd be able to ride 700's with them
Sorry for the dirt
Last edited by joshvanslam; 07-12-11 at 04:08 PM. Reason: Addition
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Plenty of adjustment for 700c wheels. You only need to drop the pads 4mm and you have that with no problem.
#9
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Well, if you do decide to "upgrade" to a newer wheel-set with more gears, which I recommend you do, you may as well go 9sp. It's really going to cost you about the same as 8, and it is nice to have. I personally have decided I think 9 is the best option available. I love my 9s, and have gone 2X9 on my MTB and 1X9 on my road bike.
EDIT: I run 11-28 on my road bike with a MTB rear derailer. It's a wide enough range to easily climb the hills around here and still have a good gear selection throughout the cassette. And as for the MTB derailer, these days they hardly weigh more than road bike derailers, but seem to cost a lot less, and have no problem handling up to a 34tooth gear if I wish. Something to consider.
EDIT: I run 11-28 on my road bike with a MTB rear derailer. It's a wide enough range to easily climb the hills around here and still have a good gear selection throughout the cassette. And as for the MTB derailer, these days they hardly weigh more than road bike derailers, but seem to cost a lot less, and have no problem handling up to a 34tooth gear if I wish. Something to consider.
Last edited by 3speed; 07-12-11 at 05:15 PM.
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In over 200 rebuilds, although I have replaced and upgraded a lot of wheels, I have yet to have bought a single new wheel. One of these days, I'll probably have to, although I have about ten road sets in reserve right now.
Last edited by wrk101; 07-12-11 at 07:04 PM.
#11
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I think the Z51 chain will fit an 8-speed, and it's only about $12.
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Per the KMC website, max speeds for the Z51 chain is seven. For 8 speed, they recommend their Z72 chain, which is quite a bit more $$. Niagara lists the Z51 as fine for 8 speed. I've got some laying around, I'll check the box.
https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln...mo=view&id=602
https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln...mo=view&id=605
https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln...mo=view&id=602
https://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln...mo=view&id=605
#13
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I know, but they lie. I'm pretty sure I've installed it on 8-speeds.
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8-speed is an excellent compromise. Cost shouldn't be too bad, and it's mechanically simpler than 9, 10, or 11 speed. You can use lots of ordinary chains.
Be sure you get a cassette with the wheels.
Be sure you get a cassette with the wheels.
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I bought a set of Mavic 700C wheels for my 84 Trek this week. After reading all about cold-setting the frame, adjusting brakes, etc., I expected this to present some minor obstacles, but the conversion took me less than 15 minutes. The wheels literally popped right onto my frame (maybe it had coldset itself over the years!), I lowered the pads in the slots, aired up the tires, and was off riding. BTW, this also included a swap from 6 to 8 speeds in the rear. Initially the rear derailleur only lifted the chain up to the 7th sprocket, but a twist of the limit screw had it shifting through all 8, no other adjustments were needed with the downtube friction shifter. Painless and brainless.
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Originally Posted by Right Said Fred
...
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--Don't Panic.
--Don't Panic.
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