publius

Hello all,

I picked up this cool Stumpjumper over the weekend on CL and I wanted some advice as I tear it down. First, based on the serial number it appears to be a late-1982 version, which was already converted to single speed at some point in the past. The frame, fork, bars (with attached stem), brakes, wheels and tires are in good shape, so I only need to do a bit of work to get it going again. The headset is completely shot -- clicks bad in the middle -- and the chain is definitely gone. My most immediate problem though is that the seatpost is completely stuck. I read on Sheldon's page that if the seatpost is steel (w/ a steel frame), penetrating oil is required. If it's aluminum, WD40 should work. I let the WD40 work in all weekend and it didn't budge so I'm thinking it's steel. Here's a picture of the seatpost -- can anyone confirm that penetrating oil might do the trick?

My other question is with respect to removing the cranks/bottom bracket and the headset cups still on the frame. Is this better as a bike shop job or are the tools worth the investment? I'm stripping the frame down, going to have it powdercoated a solid color and then rebuild. I'm probably going to get a new headset and chain, but mostly use the original parts for the rest if it makes a difference.

Here's some before pictures as it was when I got it.

tugrul

I'm almost certain that is an aluminum post. Try sticking a magnet to it.


The BB tools are worth the investment, just need to figure out which ones you will need.

Also, if the cups are stuck, it'll be cheaper to free them yourself.


Removing a head set is easy with a home made hack. Getting them back in shouldn't be too hard either, with a threaded rod and some nuts/washers/etc.

tugrul

Here is a seat post extractor a forum member made if you are feeling industrious.

Iowegian

That's an aluminum post. There are lots of threads around here that go into great detail on different methods of freeing a stuck post.


BTW, I work in Longmont and live in Boulder and would be happy to help you out with removing the crank and cups if you don't want to buy the tools. Drop me a PM if you like.

publius

Thanks for both of your responses -- I love the DIY website, full of cool stuff I had never considered before.

And Iowegian, I definitely might take you up on that. I should know by the weekend what my plans are so I'll send you a PM once I know a bit more about what direction I'm going to go in.

ish

For the seatpost, try soaking it in ammonia. If that doesn't work, try Kroil. If that doesn't work, then cut it out from the inside with a hacksaw blade or use lye (look these methods up on the internet).

It's definitely worthwhile to buy BB tools, and you can make the headset stuff with $10 in parts from a hardware store.

You might want to consider repainting in a correct color since it's a 1982. They are getting pretty collectible. Shame someone got rid of most of the valuable parts. At least you have the original Mafac brakes.

publius

Yeah, I didn't even realize it was a 1982 when I bought it -- it was just advertised as an old Stumpjumper SS and I didn't realize until later exactly what it was. I felt like I got a good deal b/c it's a cool bike and it's in my size. I really love the fork and the Bullmoose bars on it, along with the brakes you referenced. I know the 82 came in either gray or blue -- I'm not sure what color I'd like to paint it yet, but I haven't ruled out a nice shade of blue. I really only want it as a fun bike to tool around on so I'm not really interested in making it "correct" though.

mparker326

I don't think you need to repaint either. Early Stumpjumpers are collectable and repainting would lower the value of your bike. Read up on oxalic acid. Since you are going to stripping everything off, an oxalic acid bath will remove all the rust spots from the frame.

flash2070

Hi Publius, I have had very stubborn seatposts on a few ocassions. My solution is to bathe (spray thoroughly) the post with WD40 for 3-4 days if necessary. With the saddle still on, wiggle it with all your might from side to side until it succumbs to your strenght! :-) If it is really tight, inclrease the WD, and wiggle some more. You may not do it on one shot, but give it your best shot throughout the day on multiple occssions. You said you used WD already, but I don't believe you were with a resolute mind to make that post release. It will work, as by looking at it does not appear to be a hopeless cause, and that you may have to resort for more drastic action. Go on prove me right! Best of luck! Very nice bike my friend! :-)

Flash

Speed2XS

Re: Stuck seatpost

I have had this problem many times myself, one of the wost was an aluminum post in an old steel specialized frame. What I ended up doing after trying WD-40 and the like was flipping the frame upside down and pouring ammonia into the seat tube through a bottle mount hole and let it soak for daysssss. Eventually I was able grip the seatpost in a vice and use the frame to wrench the bike around til the corrosion broke free and released the post. It was awful, but worked as the last resort.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing your build.

Iowegian

I think it's too far gone to get much collector value out of it, I'd just follow your plan and make it a nice rider. I actually have an 82ish stumpy frameset (light blue) in my basement waiting for me to fix it up. I think the regular 82's were light blue and the 'Sport' model was gray. I don't know if they used the same frame with different components or if the frames were actually different. Maybe we can compare framesets and find out!

gomango

Here is my son's time capsule 1983 Stumpjumper Sport for reference.

These bikes are fun to have around, and you'll be rewarded for your efforts.

Not really a good single track mtb, just a super reliable around town and light trail bike.

publius

Thanks everybody for the great tips about the seatpost, I'm definitely going to work on it some more this weekend. I think I am going to go ahead and paint it, b/c like Iowegian said, it's not really "valuable" in its current state and I bought it just as a fun project and to ride around town so I don't have to bring my road bike to cruiser night, etc...

And Gomango, that's a great picture and a very nice specimen, thanks for sharing.

ish

I've seen gray and blue Stumpjumpers and Stumpjumper Sports. Pretty sure for the early bikes, color and model were usually not related.

The Sports were made in Taiwan (vs. Japan), had some frame differences, and had slightly lower spec components.

Hey, publius, another thing I realized, looks like you have the original KKT BMX pedals on there, too. They are fairly rare and worth a decent amount of money.

Want to see something interesting? The 1981 Stumpjumper was not lugged. (pic is my bike from when I first rescued it)

sillygolem

CRC makes something called "Freeze Off." It's not that good as a solvent, but it sprays very, very cold. You have to hose the part down with it, but this can cause enough shrinkage to get things to break loose. I'd use just before you're actively trying to pull the stem out.

publius

Interesting. $7 on Amazon, might be worth a try, thanks for the tip. Anyone else tried this product before?

And ish, thanks for the info. I don't have any close-ups of the pedals but I'll have to take a look at them when I get home and see what they say. One is missing a dust cover but they do seem to be in pretty good shape. I know they said made in Japan on them but I can't recall the brand right now.

I called around a got a bunch of powder coating quotes that ranged from $250 down to $75 (or $90 depending on which color I go with). Since I don't have lots of extra money for this, I'm going to go with the cheapest place. I found reviews online that says the guy does good work, he's just way out in the country and seems to be affordable.

Iowegian

Let me know how it turns out, I have a few frames I'd like to get powder coated but when I go back to my usual contacts the price is higher and it's gotten to the point where I don't want to spend $150 to PC a so-so frame. But for $75.....especially if he does volume discounts, I'd be willing.

publius

This is the place: https://www.coatingspecialtiesofcolorado.com/

I initially found them on a 4x4 forum and then over on MTBR once I had the name -- nothing but positive comments, with a few little nitpicks here and there (but everyone was pleased with the work done for the price paid).

Iowegian

Thanks!