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  1. #1
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Kinda bummed out...

    about my Campy brake set.

    Long story short, I got overconfident and bid on a set of used Chorus brakes. Showed up with no barrel adjusters and a frozen, stripped out cable anchor bolt on the front brake (which explains the crappy photos with the listing.)

    Today I tried to free the bolt by cutting a slot across the top, to go at it with a flathead screwdriver. No joy. Thinking the bolt may be frozen to the plate, I attacked the seam between them. Now the aluminum plate has apparently fused with the bolt.

    At least the rear brake works and is in good shape. I can always try to find another front brake.

    I'll get over it. Just needed to vent.

    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  2. #2
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    That sucks
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

  3. #3
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    we've all been there.

  4. #4
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    Me, I would put them back on ebay, honestly describe them, list as "parts not working" and move on.

  5. #5
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robatsu View Post
    Me, I would put them back on ebay, honestly describe them, list as "parts not working" and move on.
    Well, that's a thought I had not considered. Guess I could auction the barrel adjusters separately. Lol
    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  6. #6
    Cisalpinist Italuminium's Avatar
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    Have you tried breaking the galvanic corrosion by chemical means?
    Pass the Dutchie on the non-drive side.
    Rather a 100$ bike with 1000$ wheels than a 1000$ bike with 100$ wheels.

  7. #7
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
    Have you tried breaking the galvanic corrosion by chemical means?
    No, I have not. I'm not sure it's a corrosion issue, but I'm willing to try. What would you recommend?
    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  8. #8
    Cisalpinist Italuminium's Avatar
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    acid does the trick. Park tools assert that even coke will get rid of it, but I wouldn't take any chances (plus it's sticky) and go for something more potent from the chemical cabinet. Be careful though, acid will also remove the finish of the brakes (the anodizing is actually nothing more than controlled and sealed corrosion), so don't dunk the entire unit in. If the problem is a deformed bolt you're out of luck.
    Pass the Dutchie on the non-drive side.
    Rather a 100$ bike with 1000$ wheels than a 1000$ bike with 100$ wheels.

  9. #9
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
    acid does the trick. Park tools assert that even coke will get rid of it, but I wouldn't take any chances (plus it's sticky) and go for something more potent from the chemical cabinet. Be careful though, acid will also remove the finish of the brakes (the anodizing is actually nothing more than controlled and sealed corrosion), so don't dunk the entire unit in. If the problem is a deformed bolt you're out of luck.
    Thanks for the info. Any particular acid? How about vinegar? I don't have much besides common household stuff.
    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  10. #10
    Cisalpinist Italuminium's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by horatio View Post
    Thanks for the info. Any particular acid? How about vinegar? I don't have much besides common household stuff.
    vinegar works, from what I've gathered from threads on stuck seat posts/stems (also a problem of galvanic corrosion) most people here use lye. Lemon juice should be potent enough too.
    Pass the Dutchie on the non-drive side.
    Rather a 100$ bike with 1000$ wheels than a 1000$ bike with 100$ wheels.

  11. #11
    Hump, what hump? horatio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Italuminium View Post
    vinegar works, from what I've gathered from threads on stuck seat posts/stems (also a problem of galvanic corrosion) most people here use lye. Lemon juice should be potent enough too.
    I'm gonna try lemon - that should be appropriate! lol
    Check out my blog and leave a comment!

    2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1989 Pinarello Montello ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1988 Centurion Ironman Expert ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1986 Basso Gap ** 198? Trek 820 ** 19?? Roberts Audax

  12. #12
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    Lye is not an acid. Just the opposite.

  13. #13
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Actually, if your parts in question are made of
    aluminum alloy, household ammonia should work well.

    But you said Anchor bolt? I'd try one of the penetrant
    oils like PB Blaster on anything steel that's threaded.

    This is what I use, so it must be the only thing that will work.
    Quote Originally Posted by Al Dvorin
    Ladies and gentlemen, Elvis has left the building. Thank you and goodnight

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