Celo 105... to paint or not to paint
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: sf bay area
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Celo 105... to paint or not to paint
Picked up a Cilo 105 on cl, seems to be identical to a Ironman. Made in Japan, Tange 1 tubing, Shimano 105 all around. I definitely want to spruce the bike up, and i've currently got it down to just the frame. I intended to strip the paint and do my best with a rattle can, but looking into it further has me thinking paying a few dollars more to get it blasted/powder coating might be worth it, considering it wouldn't cost too much more, and would be worlds better (not to mention a lot less work).
The thing that has me worried, is I've read a lot of posts here of people urging against media blasting, as it ruins the frame. Is this completely true? Maybe the best thing to do would be leave it be?
Here's some pics i took while i was dismantling the bike.
The thing that has me worried, is I've read a lot of posts here of people urging against media blasting, as it ruins the frame. Is this completely true? Maybe the best thing to do would be leave it be?
Here's some pics i took while i was dismantling the bike.
Last edited by Apaulo; 09-11-11 at 05:24 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lancaster,CA the desert north of Los Angeles
Posts: 701
Bikes: 84' Ciocc, 79' Shogun 1000, 76' KHS Gran Sport, 96' Schwinn Super Sport,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Don't sand blast the frame it sands down what is already vary thin tubing. Look at the auto parts stores for touch up paint pens that match your paint, grease everything, add good tires, tubes, and ride. Nice looking bike, don't forget to put up pictures when your done.
#3
Wookie Jesus inspires me.
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,215
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The paint seems to be in very good condition. It looks like some touch up, elbow grease, polish, and wax will take you a long way.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: sf bay area
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What bothers me about keeping the original paint is that there seem to be some decals missing that I can't locate anywhere online. I can see raised areas of the paint that spell "Cilo". One idea i had was to order Centurion Ironman decals, as the bikes are identical and came in this same paint scheme, and brand it as that. The thing about that is would i be able to sand those raised areas to apply different decals without destroying the paint job?
Last edited by Apaulo; 09-11-11 at 05:25 AM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,748 Times
in
937 Posts
It would be incredibly foolish to repaint the bicycle. What will happen is that you will lower the value of the bicycle, considerably. And, you will spend a few bucks doing it.
The rattle can paint will be just fine - if you do it right. And doing it right does not include a sand blast. It does not include a few quick coats of paint, a couple of days drying time before building the bike. Rather...
Preparation must be done well to get good results. The primer and paint must be applied evenly and sanded between coats. And, when you are all done painting, you had better find a way to cure or properly dry the paint. Many people will actually make the effort to bake the paint to accelerate drying time. Failure to let the paint dry properly will result in a very fragile paint job...
The point is, know what you are getting into before you ruin the perfectly decent original paint and art. In your case, a bit of color matched touch up would be far more appropriate.
Of course, it is your bike and you should do as you please. I, personally, would not even consider painting a frame in that condition.
Hope this is a help.
The rattle can paint will be just fine - if you do it right. And doing it right does not include a sand blast. It does not include a few quick coats of paint, a couple of days drying time before building the bike. Rather...
Preparation must be done well to get good results. The primer and paint must be applied evenly and sanded between coats. And, when you are all done painting, you had better find a way to cure or properly dry the paint. Many people will actually make the effort to bake the paint to accelerate drying time. Failure to let the paint dry properly will result in a very fragile paint job...
The point is, know what you are getting into before you ruin the perfectly decent original paint and art. In your case, a bit of color matched touch up would be far more appropriate.
Of course, it is your bike and you should do as you please. I, personally, would not even consider painting a frame in that condition.
Hope this is a help.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lancaster,CA the desert north of Los Angeles
Posts: 701
Bikes: 84' Ciocc, 79' Shogun 1000, 76' KHS Gran Sport, 96' Schwinn Super Sport,
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Some of us consider a torn decal or paint chip as a war wound, a badge of honor, or patina. You know it's real and you can't fake it. Race cars have the coolest paint jobs and they get chipped to sh*t. Think real.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Liberty, Missouri
Posts: 3,120
Bikes: 1966 Paramount | 1971 Raleigh International | ca. 1970 Bernard Carre | 1989 Waterford Paramount | 2012 Boulder Brevet | 2019 Specialized Diverge
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 129 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times
in
40 Posts
I can only second and third what has already been said here already. I've done very well with my repaints - yet I cannot tell you how much I regret losing the original finish, regardless of the rough condition. I have a Colnago with a number of paint chips - sure would look prettier, i guess, with a new coat of paint but I'm going to leave it alone. No sense in another case of remorse!
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Medina, OH
Posts: 275
Bikes: 85 Cilo, '91 Bianchi Volpe, '00 Gary Fisher, '74 Raleigh SuperCourse, '06 Soma Groove, '09 Nashbar X
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
+1 just do a clean & touch up, use Scratch -X, and wax it. You can get decals off Ebay from cyclomundo. I got a set for my Cilo last year.
Never heard of a Cilo with Tange tubing. Mine is Columbus Aelle; someone else just did a resto on a 531 frameset.
Never heard of a Cilo with Tange tubing. Mine is Columbus Aelle; someone else just did a resto on a 531 frameset.
#9
Larger Chainring
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Corvallis, Oregon
Posts: 1,037
Bikes: 1988 Schwinn Circuit. Bike-Boom-Puegeot. First "real bike" Trek 720 Hybrid in gross disrepair.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I personally think faded/worn out decals are perhaps cooler than intact decals.
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: sf bay area
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What do you guys think of me rebadging it?? What steps would i need to take to restore the paint and get it ready for new decals? I'm almost certain that this is an identical bike as these centurions:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Hurricane Alley , Florida
Posts: 3,903
Bikes: Treks (USA), Schwinn Paramount, Schwinn letour,Raleigh Team Professional, Gazelle GoldLine Racing, 2 Super Mondias, Carlton Professional.
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 30 Times
in
22 Posts
I need about 12 Centurion Headbadges......that should be enough to redo all of my bikes......
#13
Rustbelt Rider
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 9,104
Bikes: 1990 Trek 1420 - 1978 Raleigh Professional - 1973 Schwinn Collegiate - 1974 Schwinn Suburban
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 261 Post(s)
Liked 372 Times
in
177 Posts
I think rebranding it is a little weird.
__________________
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: phoenix
Posts: 491
Bikes: Miyata 110, Schwinn super le tour 12.2, Schwinn super sport, Lemond Zurich
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I think that if you want an ironman buy an ironman. that bike parted out would get you most of the way there if not all the way. I would be all over that frame if it was my size.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 11,674
Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, 196? Torpado Professional, 2000 Marinoni Piuma
Mentioned: 210 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1372 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,748 Times
in
937 Posts
I'm almost certain that this is an identical bike as these centurions:
What do you guys think of me rebadging it??
I do not mean to offend but the suggestion to lie about a bicycle's pedigree is shameful, in my opinion. Were I the OP I would be taking the expert advice he came to the forum for in the first place.
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".