I’m pleading guilty…
#1
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I’m pleading guilty…
In the C&V court of public opinion I’m pleading guilty to several counts of I don’t know what I’m doing. (Will this bike be staying or going? You decide.)
On my behalf I did what I was trained to do. I got in the car and drove immediatly. Not once but twice. On the second trip an ’81 Trek 710 came home with me. It test rode very well. Here’s where the lunacy picks up velocity. The bike doesn’t fit. It’s a 24” frame, the daily driven ’72 Schwinn Super Sport is also a 24” frame. The SS fits like a glove, gets used pounding out asphalt on the commute.
First thing the Trek goes into the LBS for a brake tune, (gotta be safe). Their immediately blowing smoke, is that a museum piece? Jeez it’s older than me. The owner isn’t working but the lead mechanic with 22 years on the job is. His prognoses ride the bike and get acclimated to it. He feels like the frame isn’t too large, you can change the stem and seat post to get her dialed in. Okay basic plan, easy goals, procure stem with shorter extension. Haha this frame was built with Dura-ace bits. Along with a Campy FD and Dia Compe AC250g brake levers.
A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059
I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya!
So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post? Is there such a thing? If it’s a keeper ideally the shifters move from the down tube to the barends. At this point in the exercise I’m confident the bike could be sold now, netting a scratch. The meter is currently at $260.00.
This bike rally glides! But if I can’t get it dialed in at a reasonable price one of you lucky ducks is going to get stuck with it. What’s your verdict senators?
Please run down my options as you see them.
On my behalf I did what I was trained to do. I got in the car and drove immediatly. Not once but twice. On the second trip an ’81 Trek 710 came home with me. It test rode very well. Here’s where the lunacy picks up velocity. The bike doesn’t fit. It’s a 24” frame, the daily driven ’72 Schwinn Super Sport is also a 24” frame. The SS fits like a glove, gets used pounding out asphalt on the commute.
First thing the Trek goes into the LBS for a brake tune, (gotta be safe). Their immediately blowing smoke, is that a museum piece? Jeez it’s older than me. The owner isn’t working but the lead mechanic with 22 years on the job is. His prognoses ride the bike and get acclimated to it. He feels like the frame isn’t too large, you can change the stem and seat post to get her dialed in. Okay basic plan, easy goals, procure stem with shorter extension. Haha this frame was built with Dura-ace bits. Along with a Campy FD and Dia Compe AC250g brake levers.
A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059
I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya!
So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post? Is there such a thing? If it’s a keeper ideally the shifters move from the down tube to the barends. At this point in the exercise I’m confident the bike could be sold now, netting a scratch. The meter is currently at $260.00.
This bike rally glides! But if I can’t get it dialed in at a reasonable price one of you lucky ducks is going to get stuck with it. What’s your verdict senators?
Please run down my options as you see them.
#3
)) <> ((
seems like an easy one to solve. just measure your SS and compare it to your trek.
you can find a nice stem for less than $50. the same goes for a seatpost.
you can find a nice stem for less than $50. the same goes for a seatpost.
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I've got a nice Cinelli 80 mm stem. If interested get in touch.
J
J
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Lots of stems cheaper on fleebay, just buy one to fit out the bike to dial it in. Some use an ugly adjustable stem to get an idea of the right parts before spending the big bucks. You shouldn't have to have Dura Ace or Nitto to make the bike look and ride nice, but I do understand the idea of a full matching groupo and parts.
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No, (I don't think so, ((ignorance)) the Trek tt is 57.5cm, which compares with 57.2 on the Schwinn SS. The stem on the SS is approximately 76mm, the Trek is 100mm, but the SS stem is pulled up higher. The drop of the handlebar is even with the top tube on the SS. It's lower on the Trek.
Last edited by ChicAgo steel; 09-15-11 at 11:10 PM.
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Lots of stems cheaper on fleebay, just buy one to fit out the bike to dial it in. Some use an ugly adjustable stem to get an idea of the right parts before spending the big bucks. You shouldn't have to have Dura Ace or Nitto to make the bike look and ride nice, but I do understand the idea of a full matching groupo and parts.
Thanks, dial it in cheap then keep a look out for matching parts.
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Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!
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Hi, I know VERY little, but from looking all summer for a nice 80's Trek, I know this; in Minneapolis that bike could easily fetch $350-450. Nice bike!--scotjonscot
Thanks, the Trek should be good for the longer trips. Sledge the asphalt pounding SS just take so much effort on the over fifty mile rides. It still has the "Ashtabula" in service.
scotjonscot the folks here at C&V are very generous with their talents!
Thanks, the Trek should be good for the longer trips. Sledge the asphalt pounding SS just take so much effort on the over fifty mile rides. It still has the "Ashtabula" in service.
scotjonscot the folks here at C&V are very generous with their talents!
Last edited by ChicAgo steel; 09-15-11 at 10:25 PM.
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Mark:
Is seat tube angle for a Trek 710 here?
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...1Trek3_150.jpg
Is seat tube angle for a Trek 710 here?
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...1Trek3_150.jpg
#16
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https://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/roa...-bar-geometry/
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too.
Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods.
That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too.
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too.
Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods.
That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too.
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A stem candidate gets sold at auction for $162.00:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059
I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya!
So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-DURA...#ht_500wt_1059
I participated up to a point. As this is being written another candidate, “Shimano 1980's 80mm DURA-ACE Retro stem, HIDDEN BOLT,” is bid at $82.00. What’s really needed is a DA stem with a 70mm extension. Hens tusks I tell ya!
So some options, spend $55-70 for a Nitto Technomics Forged Aluminum Stem, 60-70mm. Which isn’t vintage but might get me driving it. Along with finding a DA zero offset seat post?
https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/stems.asp
Beautifully finished road stem with hidden binder bolt. These were made by Nitto around 1983 or so. Undoubtedly the most beautiful road stem ever made. For 1" threaded steerers. 26.0mm handlebar clamp diameter. 11cm, 12cm and 13cm available in Ultegra only. The Ultegra stem is identical, except for the steel expander wedge, and Ultegra name on the front. See below.
There is a cap at the top rear of the stem. You remove the cap with a 6mm allen wrench (not supplied). With the cap removed you can adjust the handlebar clamp by inserting the allen wrench through the hole horizontally. You'll need an allen wrench that's about six inches long. To tighten or loosen the stem in the steerer, just insert the wrench vertically to adjust the expander wedge at the bottom. It's a wonderful piece of engineering that eliminates the usual exposed bolt for the handlebar clamp.
There is a cap at the top rear of the stem. You remove the cap with a 6mm allen wrench (not supplied). With the cap removed you can adjust the handlebar clamp by inserting the allen wrench through the hole horizontally. You'll need an allen wrench that's about six inches long. To tighten or loosen the stem in the steerer, just insert the wrench vertically to adjust the expander wedge at the bottom. It's a wonderful piece of engineering that eliminates the usual exposed bolt for the handlebar clamp.
My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it.
If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike.
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https://ruedatropical.com/2009/03/roa...-bar-geometry/
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too.
Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods.
That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too.
Sometimes selecting a bar with less reach can help too.
Also you could try raising the levers a smidge if you ride mostly on the hoods.
That's a lot of bike for what you have in it. I'd be trying to make it work too.
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Just my opinion, but if you can stand over the top bar without crushing your jewels, you should be able to get a good fit on the bike. There is always the exception with someone that has very long legs or torso. Measure from the seat to the bars on the SS, then the Trek and see how different the measurements are. The riding position is different on the bikes though, so I wouldn't try and get them exact. I would be more concerned with where the crank is located relative to the seat. If you move the saddle too far forward, too much pressure is put on your arms, it's fatiguing and they go numb on longer rides. You should be able to sit on the bike (with your feet on the pedals) and lift your hands off the bars without undue stress to stay upright. The Trek is a very nice bike, but you will probably have to get used to a more aggressive riding style to keep it. I would get it close and ride it before sending it on it's way.
#20
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Nice bike. I hadn't heard of this Dura Ace stem before but it looks and sounds awesome.
My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it.
If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike.
My vote would go for a Nitto Technomic and just keep the original seatpost (I doubt there was a zero setback dura ace seatpost of that vintage). Actually, I'm cheap so my real vote would be for using a cheap, short stem found in plentiful supply (for example, an SR 60 or 70 or something) to get the bike set up so you can ride it for a while and find out if you actualy like it.
If you don't like it, swap the original stem back on and sell it and you're only out the cost of bar tape. If you do like it, take your time to find a suitable quality replacement in the right length while you have a ride-able bike.
#21
aka: Mike J.
A keeper is something you like, want to keep, and like to ride. Keep the take-off parts as you swap parts to get it dialed in to your size. If it does turn out to be a flipper and not a keeper you can always put the original parts back onto it before you send it to it's next owner. That way you'll have parts available for the next time an almost close enough fit bike comes along.
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#22
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OK, I know earlier I said I'd be trying to make it fit, but that was before coffee.
You got a great deal on the package. I would give serious thought to stripping the parts and either selling the frame, or trading it on the 'frame doesn't fit' thread.
Just sayin. I believe the upper end Treks were often sold as framesets anyway.
You got a great deal on the package. I would give serious thought to stripping the parts and either selling the frame, or trading it on the 'frame doesn't fit' thread.
Just sayin. I believe the upper end Treks were often sold as framesets anyway.
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Yeah...24" has a 73.5* STA...but...I have no idea what your Schwinn has...but it would need to be at least 1* difference to make any real difference.
Mark:
Is seat tube angle for a Trek 710 here?
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...1Trek3_150.jpg
Is seat tube angle for a Trek 710 here?
https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...1Trek3_150.jpg
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Thanks for getting back to me.
The SS appears to have roughly a 73* STA, right in the ballpark.
Last edited by ChicAgo steel; 09-17-11 at 10:52 PM. Reason: Reading the MITE-R-GAGE by Nowlin, INC.
#25
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if your trying to make the bike fit, don't get hung up on a fancy stem to match. buy something that is reasonably priced and fits, then wrap the DA stem in a towel and same it for when and if you sell this great looking trek.
If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale.
beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL
how about a nice pic of the drive side?
if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high
a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby
If I may suggest this, stop going to your LBS for simple brake adjustments. there must be dozens of C&V guys and gals near you and perhaps you can get a lesson for the price of a sixer of Ale.
beautiful bike but (yes I am being snarky) why the Craigslist pic? LOL
how about a nice pic of the drive side?
if the tape is for the brake caliper it may be a tad high
a DA seat post too? somebody loved this baby
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