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  1. #1
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    1986 Cannondale, cable guides and bits, and powder coat. . .

    I don't remember which thread, but I could have sworn I saw someone post a cdale he had powder coated (red one, I think), but for anyone that has done this besides making sure that it's low temp cure and plugging all the holes I have one more concern:

    There's a few plastic-y bits on the frame like the chain hanger, the pump peg, cable guides, chain stay protector thingy.. . . what do I / we do about those? I guess they're epoxied/jet-welded on or some junk.

    Oh, and is there a definitive temperature NOT to exceed on the cure for this type of aluminum?

    Thanks.
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  2. #2
    Seņor Member 4Rings6Stars's Avatar
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    PM forum member rccardr if he doesn't see this thread and post. He is the resident expert as he has had many of these 80's 'dales powder coated.
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  3. #3
    aka: Dr. Cannondale rccardr's Avatar
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    All of the plastic stuff has to come off: chain hanger (usually destroyed), BB cable guide (remove screw), pump peg (unscrews, use very small open ended wrench). After everything else is off, including the fork and headset, use an awl or similar small diameter tool to press out the pins in the top tube cable guides, then CAREFULLY lift the guides out of the top tube. Shake the frame upside down and all of the guide pegs will eventually shake out. If you are very careful, the guides and pins can be reused.

    Questions about actual powder coating temps should be directed to The Man: Len LcCreary at Figure Finishing, LLC in Manassas Park, VA. Absolutely the best.
    Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...

  4. #4
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
    All of the plastic stuff has to come off: chain hanger (usually destroyed), BB cable guide (remove screw), pump peg (unscrews, use very small open ended wrench). After everything else is off, including the fork and headset, use an awl or similar small diameter tool to press out the pins in the top tube cable guides, then CAREFULLY lift the guides out of the top tube. Shake the frame upside down and all of the guide pegs will eventually shake out. If you are very careful, the guides and pins can be reused.

    Questions about actual powder coating temps should be directed to The Man: Len LcCreary at Figure Finishing, LLC in Manassas Park, VA. Absolutely the best.
    Oh yeah. Thanks. After another 40 minutes of searching an reading I found the post/picture I was looking for. One of your bikes, actually.

    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post12254380
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
    All of the plastic stuff has to come off: chain hanger (usually destroyed), BB cable guide (remove screw), pump peg (unscrews, use very small open ended wrench). After everything else is off, including the fork and headset, use an awl or similar small diameter tool to press out the pins in the top tube cable guides, then CAREFULLY lift the guides out of the top tube. Shake the frame upside down and all of the guide pegs will eventually shake out. If you are very careful, the guides and pins can be reused.

    Questions about actual powder coating temps should be directed to The Man: Len LcCreary at Figure Finishing, LLC in Manassas Park, VA. Absolutely the best.
    Could rccardr or someone else please clarify the part about removing the cable guides. Are the pins pushed through into the frame to release the cable guides?
    I'm planning on a repaint and all three guides are intact, so I would like to able to remove and reuse them.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwjmpls View Post
    Could rccardr or someone else please clarify the part about removing the cable guides. Are the pins pushed through into the frame to release the cable guides?
    I'm planning on a repaint and all three guides are intact, so I would like to able to remove and reuse them.
    Push the pins into the top tube.

    Brad

  7. #7
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    It would be nice to find replacement top tube cable guides. I have broken off a pin or two trying to salvage them off a donor frame.

  8. #8
    Senior Member yellowjeep's Avatar
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    Any Cannondale dealer can still order them for you. I had mine PCed last summer. I have actually had to order them twice for the same bike.

    Hello Nick.

    Item number A113/ is for a set of three top tube cable guides for our earlier frame. Your local Cannondale Retailer can further assist in getting these for you.

    Thank you for contacting Cannondale. Have a nice day.

    ~Cannondale Bicycle Corporation
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  9. #9
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    I haven't tried to re attach yet. . . maybe I should do that sometime. . .
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

  10. #10
    aka: Dr. Cannondale rccardr's Avatar
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    Yes, you push them into the top tube. Clearly, only a good method if you are stripping the frame sinced you have to turn it upside down and shake it around to get the pins to come out of the top tube at the headtube.

    Good luck ordering them from your Cannondale dealer. Official word is that their supplier had a fire, molds are broken, cost to make new mold is too expensive, no more of them will be sold by Cannondale. Brian at Vintage Cannondale and I tried several routes to have new ones made, have not been successful. Sad.
    Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...

  11. #11
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    The top tube guide pin diameter is .091" in case you need to make replacements out of something.

    I used a tab of Gorilla glue, but my bike's not a showpiece.
    Last edited by Homebrew01; 10-07-11 at 06:20 AM.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  12. #12
    Godbotherer dwellman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
    Good luck ordering them from your Cannondale dealer. Official word is that their supplier had a fire, molds are broken, cost to make new mold is too expensive, no more of them will be sold by Cannondale. Brian at Vintage Cannondale and I tried several routes to have new ones made, have not been successful. Sad.
    Noooooooooooooooooo.

    I WAS hoping to salvage the chain hanger. I got one of two pins out there. Meh.

    Double meh.
    "Do you not know that in a race all the runners run, but only one gets the prize? Run in such a way as to get the prize"
    "So I do not run like someone who doesn't run toward the finish line. I do not fight like a boxer who hits nothing but air."
    "And let us run with endurance the race God has set before us."
    "I have fought the good fight, I have finished the race, I have kept the faith."

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