Jagwire cable (up-date)...
 

Purchased the "Racer Complete Cable Kit" w/DR & Brake cables for my Raleigh.

The brake cables utilize an initial outer jacket section comprised of 6" section of "EZ Bend" housing, followed by the typical colored / stiff housing section. The directions say to TAPE that EZ bend portion to the handlebar.

1. Do I need to tape it down? If so, over or under the customary handlebar tape I have yet to apply / change?

2. Rather than use the "EZ Bend" section (for a more original / conventional cable look) can I simply cut that beginning covering section off and run the cables "normally"?

3. It also appears that the cable lever opening is too big for the cable ends provided in the kit and that I'd have to use the old / stock larger cable end for proper fitment?

How have any of you fitted the Jagwire's to your Road bike? ;)

I use and run my Jagwire cables as I do any other cable......

That doesn't help.

How do I know how you run your cables and if it applies to the questions? :rolleyes:

1. Yes, if your brake levers are aero style, no if you have old style non-aero brake levers. I usually tape down brake cable to handlebars with electrician's tape in couple places to secure it, and then apply wrap.
Makes it easier to wrap and also makes it easier to rewrap at a later time.

2. You better cut off that 'ez bend' section if you have non-aero brake levers; if you have aero, I would not cut it off, those flexible chunks are actually quite nice.

3. It is frequently recommended to use a ferrules on the end of the cable that is being inserted into brake lever, you can certainly use your old cable ends. See it for yourself and do what makes sense. I find that in some cases naked cable ends are the best option.

4. Yes, I have used 2 different "Racer" kits on 2 of my bikes (and couple 'hyper' kits before, but they are different). I like everything about them, except the price :) Also, if this is vintage restoration, those black ferrules from the kit may not have the right look, you will need to source your own shiny ferrules then.

Cool!Thanks Olek.

A newbie question...what is the difference btwn aero and non-aero levers? :o

I can provide a close-up pic of mine if needed, or you MAY be able to tell from this (as recently acquired) shot...

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...rbo/Bike-1.jpg

That Raleigh has non-aero brake levers and the cables are not installed properly. I mean they should extend straight up for a distance and then bend back towards the bike in a more gradual curve. When they are bent so abruptly as they are now, they generally cause poor braking as the cables rub excessively in the housing. I suggest you look at photos of a properly installed non-aero brake cable.

Aero levers have the cable coming out under the hood and are routed under the bar tape. Traditional ( non-aero ) levers are like yours, with the cable exiting the rear of the levers.

Don't take offense, but you might want to take this to a bike shop for installation and watch how they set it up for you the first time. You have the front cable routed behind your steerer tube, which could cause steering and/or braking problems. The rear housing is cut way too short, causing extreme bends - again affecting braking performance.

I love the jagwire racer kit, it's totally complete, and the cables are black and coated in teflon or ptfe, something slick. The racer kit is perfect for bikes with brifters, but it is totally overkill for your Raleigh. You could have just gone with a cheaper jagwire switch or ripcord kit (making sure they are for road bike brakes not mtb brakes), and then just bought the shifter cables separately without shifter housings. You don't need any shift cable housings so no need to pay for them, the small section at the rear from the chain stay to the derailleur can be excess brake housing.

I often buy the jagwire shift or ripcord kits with braided housings for bikes like yours, but sometimes its hard to get them with road bike style brake cables, so sometimes I have to buy the brake cables separately. Luckily, I can get 2 brake cables and 2 shift cables for $6 at the co-op. Most bike shops charge ~$3 each.

No offense taken. :D That's how the bike was shipped and I just laid the front brake assy over the tire (for a quick pic), so it's not routed nor bolted properly.

Is this a decent cable routing example to replicate?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...igh-Grand-Prix

Or...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...acker/1602.jpg

Or...

Can't go wrong w/a catalog pic I guess... :rolleyes:
(click on the GP when it opens)

http://www.jaysmarine.com/TH_raleigh_cat_73.html#

Yeah, but come on...for $34 bucks for the entire brake and DR kit? :rolleyes:

+1 It's not rocket surgery, but it sure helps to at least see a picture of what proper installation looks like. There are pics on this site, but for LOTS of questions like this the best answer is probably one of the old bike maintenance books from the 70s & 80s. I have the 'Bicycling Magazine Complete Guide to Bike Maintenance' and 'Sloane's New Bicycle Maintenance Book' both of them from Amazon marketplace, under $5/each shipped.

The kit you have sounds wrong for your bike, and you'll end up wasting a good bit if you use it. If unopened, I'd return it; if opened hold onto it for some later bike project...'cause you are sure to have one.

A better/nicer/more vintage-friendly LBS will sell you regular brake housing by the foot. Usually they have colors too! Same for derailleur housing, might as well make them match. On an older, pre-index shifting bike the same housing serves for both. You may have to convince younger folks at the LBS that this is true, but it is. ;)

One quick comment in case it isn't implied anywhere here. Aero-brake levers are different internally so that they pull the cable from the bottom of the lever, not through the top of the lever and out the hood. That's how they can be wrapped under the bars. Aero or non-aero isn't a choice you make except by swapping levers.

Thanks all!

Here's my plan...

1. Remove the "flex" portion of the outer cable on the lever end from the Jagwire product (measuring my needs prior to cutting anything).

2. Use my old ferrules

3. DON'T tape the cable down.

4. Use the Raleigh catalog pic and SB article support as references for length and routing.
Capice? :D

I'd use the jagwire ferules where it's possible. What are you using to cut the housing with? I insert an old cable into the new housing so it doesn't get squashed when I cut it. Afterwards, I use a file to make the cable ends totally flat.

Finish the ends! It makes a difference and you already made the investment in nice cables.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6163/...2c08e58b_z.jpg

I'll look into that, but at first eye-ball, the lever cable exit hole is huge in comparison.

As far as cutting the cable...I'm thinking a thin cut-off wheel in a P-grinder end deburred fer' sure. I've got band saw capabilities as well. I'm a machinist / fabricator w/his own shop by trade.

Thanks! :)

By coincidence, I just finished installing a Jagwire racer kit yesterday on my Univega Gran Turismo. The "Easybend" was a surprise. Installed the cable backwards on the rear using the E-Z bend to make the turn into the brake adjuster. For the front I just cut it off. Cut it a little to short, I have to add. Seems to work well- today's the official test ride.

And I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut the housing. Ran an old cable into them for insurance. Cables were cut with sidecutters after install.

Hmmm...I'll look at that potential option as well.

Since you seem well-provided, tool-wise: if you have a soldering gun and flux, I recommend tinning the section of cable (a cm or so) that terminates at the brake caliper, before cutting to length. Easier to cut off, and helps keep it from fraying when installed/uninstalled a couple times.

Good idea, but these inner cables have a teflon coating and are of stainless steel composition.

I'm finishing up my Jagwire install with an up-date and some tips n' tricks that may help others.

First the DR portion...on my application, the cable end "POP" (Point of Pressure) adapters provided were .020" too large to fit into either DR, so I machined them down accordingly.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...RCables001.jpg

Shown here is the rear DR, but the front DR fit went the same way..


http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...RCables002.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...RCables003.jpg

Caution: don't be tempted to go w/o the POP adapter and run the cable directly into the DR's, as the adapter serves to bundle and secure the cable casing jacket. Unlike conventional spiral wound OE or stock replacement cables, Jagwire uses a multi-wire arrangement, as shown here in this freshly cut (and yet to be deburred) cable end view...

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/DRCables.jpg

On the brake cable lever ends, my old cable end ferrules were pretty shot (and white in color) so I opted to crank out a couple of new custom ones for the job.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Cables003.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Cables001.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../Cables002.jpg

The POP adapters fit fine in the ferrules, frame cable stops and on the end at the brake caliper proper.

I also chose to NOT use the "easy bend" portion of the cable, discarding it, and still having more than enough kit provided cable to do the job.

Overall, I'm very pleased (who can't help but fall in love with material make-ups of Kevlar, Teflon and stainless steel) :) and the quality, look, operating smoothness and price afforded by the Jagwire kit.

Rocket surgery? :twitchy:

Easier'n brain science, I guess. Or maybe harder, I dunno'.

Yep! You know...a across between Rocket Science and Brain Surgery. :D