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  1. #1
    Senior Member custermustache's Avatar
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    Can I rethread a crankarm?

    I bought a sweet chrome Ross Mt Something or other and I got it cheap because the BB is shot and the guy had stripped the non drive side crankarm so it couldn't be removed. I bought, got it removed with a pickle fork and now am wondering if I can fix the crankarm. The crankset is a nice Sakae triple that looks sharp, so I'd like to use it again once I replace the BB with a cartridge Can I re-tap it?

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    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    I doubt that you can re-thread it, but why not use it anyway and remove it the same way when you need to replace the BB? Presumably that won't be anytime soon.

  3. #3
    vintage motor kroozer's Avatar
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    I think French crank threads are a little bigger than English, so maybe you could tap it out to French. Of course, then you need a French crank extractor.

  4. #4
    WNG
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    I don't think it's worth rethreading. Just use as is and buy a cheap Harbor Freight pitman arm or tie rod remover.
    They are threaded and less damaging than a pickle fork.
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    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    Yes, the crank arm can be rethreaded oversize and most old bicycle shops will have the tap to do the job. The question is is it worth it? My guess is they will charge more than a new/used one will cost. But that is just a guess.
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    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    I don't think it's worth rethreading. Just use as is and buy a cheap Harbor Freight pitman arm or tie rod remover.
    They are threaded and less damaging than a pickle fork.
    Also someone the other day mentioned using a taper-fit drill chuck removal wedge.

    btw I just looked at the HF tool mentioned above and the first 4 reviewers all complained of it breaking. I guess you get what you pay for.

  7. #7
    Senior Member custermustache's Avatar
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    I'm thinking I'll just reuse the arm with the new bottom bracket - I don't see myself removing it a lot.

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    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
    Also someone the other day mentioned using a taper-fit drill chuck removal wedge.

    btw I just looked at the HF tool mentioned above and the first 4 reviewers all complained of it breaking. I guess you get what you pay for.
    http://www.drillspot.com/products/94...68_3_wedge_set


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    Senior Member ColonelJLloyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
    Yes, the crank arm can be rethreaded oversize and most old bicycle shops will have the tap to do the job.
    Who makes a tap for this? No LBS I've asked has one. I've asked because I recently stripped the NDS threads of a beautiful Ofmega Mistral crank; made me sick. I figured I'd just borrow a gear puller and that's the way it'll have to come off again should it need to.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Gary Fountain's Avatar
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    You can use a 'heli-coil insert to replace the existing thread.

    From the website: "Heli-Coil inserts are precision-formed screw thread coils of extremely hard diamond-shaped 304 stainless steel wire. When installed into Heli-Coil tapped holes, screw thread inserts provide permanent conventional 60° internal screw threads that accommodate any standard bolt or screw."

    http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil

  11. #11
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
    Who makes a tap for this? No LBS I've asked has one. I've asked because I recently stripped the NDS threads of a beautiful Ofmega Mistral crank; made me sick. I figured I'd just borrow a gear puller and that's the way it'll have to come off again should it need to.
    VAR makes a tool for this:


  12. #12
    Senior Member ColonelJLloyd's Avatar
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    I tried a Bicycle Research tool. It's not quite a tap but it has a guide like the VAR tool shown. It wasn't happening.
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  13. #13
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
    I tried a Bicycle Research tool. It's not quite a tap but it has a guide like the VAR tool shown. It wasn't happening.
    As you are no doubt now aware, the crank threads on
    the spindle socket present some unique problems in
    the rethreading process. It's a pretty shallow, flat
    bottomed hole, so you cannot just take a standard
    tapered tap and run the sucker through.

    I've never attempted this myself, so can offer no guidance
    or suggestions, other than I really do not think it would
    be a very good spot to try a helicoil either.

    The jacobs chuck thingies seem to work reasonably well
    once you get the hang of it, and as has been mentioned,
    you really do not have to pull the cranks all that often
    if they've been serviced and installed correctly.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member gaucho777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
    VAR makes a tool for this
    I swear I've heard that before.
    Last edited by gaucho777; 09-28-11 at 11:10 PM.
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  15. #15
    Stop reading my posts! unworthy1's Avatar
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    JA Stein makes a "system" that removes a stripped-out crank arm, a special tap that cuts new over-sized threads, and the replacement one-key remover caps to re-install the arm(s)...it costs $150 and I bet your LBS doesn't have it.

  16. #16
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Yes... you can re-tap it but bet that finding a replacement arm to match would be far easier and cheaper.

    What crank is it and how long are the cranks ?

  17. #17
    people's champ marley mission's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by unworthy1 View Post
    JA Stein makes a "system" that removes a stripped-out crank arm, a special tap that cuts new over-sized threads, and the replacement one-key remover caps to re-install the arm(s)...it costs $150 and I bet your LBS doesn't have it.
    and then what happens when you strip the the new oversized thread
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  18. #18
    Senior Member custermustache's Avatar
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    It is a Sakae CR set in 175 mm. I just need a non drive side if someone has one.

    I did try a gear puller, and the one I have has a pointy tip on the screw in part, so it wouldn't stay in the right spot on the spindle.

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    I read your question and some of the replys. In my experience we would sometimes get away with chasing the threads, but retapping is near impossible. I don't like using an imappropriate tool if at all possible and no one intends to remove anything in the near future. That said, why not just replace it, you can buy a new one really inexpensively from any of the on line dealers. I have seen them for under ten dollars.

  20. #20
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    Who makes a tap for this? No LBS I've asked has one.
    At the moment, I have no idea, however the local vintage bicycle guru who has worked at a local bike shop since the Earth's crust showed me the kit and commented that in a quarter of a century, he had used it only a couple of times.

    If I ever get around to it, I will ask the guy who makes the tap kit and where one can be purchased. Chances are they are no longer available but that is just a guess, on my part.
    Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"

  21. #21
    Large Member realestvin7's Avatar
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    Buy a new one. I have a few of these cranksets. Lol.
    Build a drop bar do-it-all MTB!
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    1985 Cannondale Road F/F - 56cm ST/56cm TT
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    Alpine MTB F/F - 23" ST/59cm TT
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    Peugeot PR10 Road F/F - 62.5cm ST/60cm TT

  22. #22
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    I used the bicycle research tool on a sakae crank like this too, but it is made more for dustcap threading than doing all the threads deep into a crank, I think they even call it a dustcap thread chaser, but I was lucky that my crank had mostly the top threads damaged. I bought the tool and donated it to a local co-op and we've used it there a couple of times... go slow, use lots of oil, be careful, etc. But the tool is likely as much as a new arm... especially if the rethreading doesn't work for you. At the co-op we usually just remove the stripped with the ball joint separator mentioned above.

  23. #23
    Senior Member custermustache's Avatar
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    If you have a crankset like this (or multiples) for cheap, I'm interested for sure. PM me.

  24. #24
    Senior Member CMC SanDiego's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Fountain View Post
    You can use a 'heli-coil insert to replace the existing thread.

    From the website: "Heli-Coil inserts are precision-formed screw thread coils of extremely hard diamond-shaped 304 stainless steel wire. When installed into Heli-Coil tapped holes, screw thread inserts provide permanent conventional 60° internal screw threads that accommodate any standard bolt or screw."

    http://www.emhart.com/brands/heli-coil
    ^ this +1. I just had a crank arm (the drive side/chainring arm) fitted with a helicoil at my local Performance bike shop. It cost me $20 but saved an otherwise destroyed vintage crankset.

  25. #25
    Large Member realestvin7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by custermustache View Post
    If you have a crankset like this (or multiples) for cheap, I'm interested for sure. PM me.
    Sure. Yours for the cost of a Raleigh International.
    Build a drop bar do-it-all MTB!
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    1985 Cannondale Road F/F - 56cm ST/56cm TT
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    Trek 7000 MTB F/F -17" ST/55cm TT
    Alpine MTB F/F - 23" ST/59cm TT
    Ross Hi-Tech MTB F/F - 20" - 21" ST/57cm TT
    Peugeot PR10 Road F/F - 62.5cm ST/60cm TT

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