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  1. #1
    category ii hoarder orangeology's Avatar
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    best clear coat recommendation please



    home paint job in progress on a '74 raleigh gran sports.
    original frame was in pretty bad shape, rust all over the frame with some deep penetrations on top and down tube. there was no way doing re-touch if i wanted to deal with rust. decided not to go with a proper restoration but a single gear build. (pls, don't shoot me here. it's my very 1st building project and wanted to begin with a relatively easier one, just to get to know bikes.)
    one shop in nyc would charge 300 for normal paint job and decided to go with a home job. putting 300 over a 40 clam frame wouldn't make a logical sense.

    1. how it arrived.
    2. stripped out (god, i hate that paint stripper thingy), some intensive grinding and sanding, applying the sour smelly rust inhibitors and etc.
    3. primed with rust-o-leum clean metal. double coat, masking the chrome area.
    4. painted with HEMI orange engine block enamel—which is supposed to have a quite durable surface. double coat. a couple runny area, but should be fine with some compounding jobs, i guess. (i do have some home auto body experience).

    so. here lies the question. i would love to finish it with a super shiny but durable clear coat. what's the best? easy choice i know is clear enamel for automotive. do you bike-meisters have better recommendation ie) urethan, honey, sugar syrup or anything?

    many thanks in advance and again, sorry for it's not a C&V restoration.
    (feel like here C&V is my hometown, and do promise doing one soon)

    orangeology.
    Last edited by orangeology; 01-03-12 at 02:43 PM. Reason: edit

  2. #2
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    I've had good results with Dupli-Color clear coat. Scuff sand, clean, and shoot.
    Good enough for a nice bike, cheap enough for a 40-clam frame.
    1-2 cans from an auto parts store, probably $15-$18.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    I'm not a doctor, but I watch them on TV.

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  3. #3
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    What I did on my single speed bike...

    1. Sanded the primer at #400 as required.
    2. Applied a very thin coat of Belton Molotow Clear.
    3. Sanded that coat #600. (Feel free to try #800 or #1000).
    4. Applied my Vinyl decal - #600 was rough enough so the decal could get a good grip on its own.
    5. Applied a steady and heavy but non-running coat of Belton Molotow Clear
    6. Sanded that coat very lightly so I didn't scratch the decal using #600.
    7. Applied a steady and full coat of Belton Molotow Clear

    Let it dry at least a week before assembling bicycle...you want the hardening additive in the clear to do its job....harden.

    Make sure you hold the can 6-7" inches away from the frame when spraying - too far away and the material is already drying before it hits the frame.

    I did a good job with the color and clear - however I know I held my primer can way to far away (a foot) - the paint job is already failing because I screwed up the primer part.

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  4. #4
    Senior Member loose spoke's Avatar
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    Read the label on your orange paint! They will almost always have a recomendation for a clear layer.
    In general, the clear that comes in spray cans is lacquer (dries very fast) and because of the solvents used, can lift and ruin many finishes... especially spray can enamel! So, pay attention to the label and stay with a compatible clear.
    Automotive urethane usually will not adhere to rattle can paint and will lift in sheets some time in the future. I say usually because there are exceptions. Read the label.
    * 1972 Motobecane Grand Jubile * 1973 Le Champion *
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    * 1989 Miyata 1000LT * 2000 Teschner built Fuji Team Mercury * 2012 Velo Orange Rando* n+1 rule is in effect

  5. #5
    Senior Member brian3069's Avatar
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  6. #6
    category ii hoarder orangeology's Avatar
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    many many thanks for great advice, folks.
    will keep all in mind. fortunately i went to art school and etc, know a bit on 'how to' use spray cans.
    the eastwood stuff seems particularly interesting.
    anyway. there's a long winter yet to endure. will not spray things again until outside is nice.

    thanks!

  7. #7
    Senior Member mrrabbit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by orangeology View Post
    many many thanks for great advice, folks.
    will keep all in mind. fortunately i went to art school and etc, know a bit on 'how to' use spray cans.
    the eastwood stuff seems particularly interesting.
    anyway. there's a long winter yet to endure. will not spray things again until outside is nice.

    thanks!
    Elements wise or temperature wise?

    =8-)
    4000+ wheels built since 1984...

    Disclaimer:

    1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
    2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
    3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
    4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
    5. My all time favorite book is:

    Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life

  8. #8
    category ii hoarder orangeology's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrrabbit View Post
    Elements wise or temperature wise?

    =8-)
    little bit of both.

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