pstock

some of you might have seen my post in Values about this odd-ball camouflaged Colnago Arabesque.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1083119...agoYellowBlack

My curiosity is now killing me. I am keen to see what the original finish looked like, if that is possible.
What suggestions do you have for getting those yellow and black top coats off without damage the original finish unnecessarily.

Heat gun?
Paint stripper?

What means could be controlled enough to leave the original finish as intact as possible.?

Thanks

Peter Stock

Drillium Dude 

Start with Goof-Off on a small area. Try any area that might have been chromed - the fork for sure, and possibly the head lugs.

I still can't believe someone did that to an Arabesque

DD

gomango

Neither can I.

Goof off should do it, but keep the area very well ventilated.

I used acetone once on a TR-6 trunk lid and I felt about 20 IQ points less intelligent after that folly.

Ventilate aggressively and get yourself eye protection while you are it.

hueyhoolihan

what's the doc say about chances of recovery?

mkeller234

Wow, someone needs smacked around for that paint job... yuck! I'd agree with acetone or goof off, and definitely well ventilated.

Spookeay Bird

Methyl ethyl ketone. or MEK will take unhardened paint right off.
Then Acetone once you get down to the factory paint but be quick about the wipe and don't let it set/soak to long on the paint.

JayBlurr

i could lightly sand the paint until you get the old paint off, and after both the original paint from the frame. Its a long shot shot tough because paint if is difficult after it fully cures.

anixi

You may need some auto grade paint stripper for this. I wouldn't use Aircraft grade, it might ruin the finish on any of the chrome bits. Sand off the pits if any, with progressively higher grits, until about 1500, then buff. You can see lots of advice on painting it yourself, even in this forum.

slowpup

If you want to preserve the original finish, then elbow grease and time. Very careful polishing with a light rubbing compound.

Any stripper risks attacking the original finish, and MEK or Acetone will be almost impossible to control. Once the original finish softens, the top coat may tend to blend and you'll have a devil of a job to restore any original finish.

JayBlurr

Not necessarily, my father has been in auto body for like 40 yrs and i've learned a couple of things but I'm a mechanic. Anyway long story short you can start sanding at a like 800-1000 grit but wet sand. If you dry sand it, you create friction and paint sticks on harder, having you just scraping the paint instead of it being a smooth processes. Don't leave the frame in direct sunlight, make sure it's not hot, remember heat creates a stronger bond. You want it in a cool dry place, not freezing either. 1500-2000 grit is more for polishing clear coats or metal(always wet sand). After that when you feel comfortable and think you got where you desired, us a rubbing compound. I use 3M rubbing compound on everything seems to work really good. Final note just take you time with it and don't get too aggressive with the paint because you want to preserve the paint of coat under. I cant promise your be happy with the results because the under might not look the way you expected. Good Luck and feel free to ask any questions.

prettyshady

I have a gios with a repaint, under it is the original blue. I have been trying to think of the best way to do this, might have to repaint....

jeirvine 

If I've learned anything from old guitars, the reason they are re-sprayed is that the old finish was pretty bad. So don't expect to find a nice intact finish under there. The good news is that whatever original finish is under there will be much more durable that the apparent spray paint over it. Wet sanding is how I would start, but that won't help you at all around the lugs. Something relatively mild like cirtustrip might take off the spray paint easily without touching the undercoat if you don't leave it on too long. Have fun.

Drillium Dude 

Urp - I just threw up in my mouth a little bit

DD

JayBlurr

yup

Berylbite

Is it safe to stick such frames in a sandblasting cabinet? My university has a nice one in the engineering building.

prettyshady

I can fix it, just might take a few months. it was the guys winter rollers bike..



would be great to be able to remove the first layer, I think I will try the chemical option. with care might be able to save original paint. if not, repaint it is.

wxflyer

Very helpful thread, this is. Here's my deal: bought a vintage bike. Previous owner had "touched up" some chips with spray paint, but didn't stop with just the chips. He painted most of the seat stays and chain stays. The smell of fresh paint knocked me over as I opened the shipping box. So I found this thread, and tried a couple things:
- my thumbnail scrapes the "new" paint off pretty well. Original paint in very good condition, but as you can imagine no one has this much time on their hands
- heated the new paint w/a heat gun, just a touch. it's now a bit easier, but still a$$ pain. even w/a cool plastic razor blade, this is just taking too long
- finally tried Goof Off. Wiped a small area of the new paint, rubbed w/microfiber cloth and scraped a bit w/trust plastic blade and thumbnail and it's off.

It takes some time, but the Goof Off has worked best for me. The bike is an 80's Ritchey MTB, and I believe they were painted w/Imron back then. The original paint is just fine, no apparent damage due to the Goof Off. But I'm quick to wipe off the residue w/a damp cloth.

Hope this helps. Good luck with yours.
J