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  1. #1
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    1984 Trek 620 bought new in 84

    I think I would like to change break cables, upgrade tires back to what original looked like. Also, would like to clean deraileur, back hub and cassette and front hub. Is this 2 big a job to undertake, and if not, where is the best place to get parts.

    Thanks in advance.

    Rabit

  2. #2
    Senior Member yellowjeep's Avatar
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    Not to big of job at all if you are even just a little bit mechanically inclined.

    Start here http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

    Also post some pictures.
    When in doubt, style it out.

    How to post full size pictures

  3. #3
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Like yellowjeep said, it's all fairly simple. You may need a few special tools, you can buy them as you need.

    I'd like to add another wonderful resource: http://sheldonbrown.com/

    I visited Sheldon's page a whole lot when I got started. He is a very good teacher.
    |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Kanegon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkeller234 View Post
    Like yellowjeep said, it's all fairly simple. You may need a few special tools, you can buy them as you need.

    I'd like to add another wonderful resource: http://sheldonbrown.com/

    I visited Sheldon's page a whole lot when I got started. He is a very good teacher.
    Almost everything you need to or should know and MORE. A true CV bible.

  5. #5
    Senior Member yellowjeep's Avatar
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    I knew I should have posted Sheldon's site as well. My most of my knowledge of random CV trivia can be traced directly to Mr. Brown. The rest of it is from here.
    When in doubt, style it out.

    How to post full size pictures

  6. #6
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    This is another good site: http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpeeds_1/

    And for Trek info: http://vintage-trek.com/

    For tires, most of us would recommend Paselas, either regular or tourguard for the best vintage look and ride.
    1984 Miyata 310, 1989 Club Fuji, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest

  7. #7
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    Trek 620

    Thanks for the input. I plan to get cleaned up this week. Just got it out, got it running and got to riding. Don't get on me to much about the rust. What is good for cleaning that.

    Rabit
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  8. #8
    back in the saddle bent-not-broken's Avatar
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    That's a great looking bike. Others will give cosmetic advice but be sure to give it a proper lube. Wheel bearing, bottom bracket and headset. If you are not comfortable with this, have it done by a LBS or someone you trust as a bike this age can be damaged if not lubed. The other 'cosmetic' issues won't cause damage
    Bent

    When the earth is covered with 2/3's beer, then I'll buy bottled water!

  9. #9
    Senior Member jar351's Avatar
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    For the rust I usually use a combination of extra-fine steel wool and a brass wire brush. I'm also beginning to experiment with oxalic acid baths, which I'm sure others can tell you more about. Great bike. What happened to the Huret rear derailleur?

  10. #10
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Google oxalic acid, there are at least 500 threads on rust, probably a lot more, with all of the ideas, comments and opinions you will ever want to see (including mine). Anything abrasive = big negative. Abrasives do not know the difference between rust, chrome, paint, decals, etc. And at best, you will only remove the rust you can see. Believe me, there will be some left behind, and it will return. Chemical options like OA just remove the rust.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Orrery's Avatar
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    Nice bike! I have one a year older which is a really nice ride but lacks those canti mounts. Good luck and enjoy the process of cleaning it up.

  12. #12
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    I guess that was changed out when I had it serviced about 5 to 7 years ago. I was not in to keeping it vintage until I got vintage myself. I started looking at new bikes and got sticker shock. I decided I liked what I had and would just get it riding good again.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Grim's Avatar
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    People pay BIG money to buy new steel bikes like that. Keep what you have. Thats a great bike and many of us here are jealous of it.

    That bike came with Huret Derailurs. That Mountech is better but you need to make sure that top jockey wheel has plenty of grease.

    Only thing I'd do if it was mine once it got a full service and a wax is get a set of Bar end shifters. Next set of tires I'd go with Tan side wall Pasellas when you wear those tires out.

    I am a little surprised at how tight of clearance there is on the fork.
    You cant have a signature unless it fits in this box

  14. #14
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Nice Bike!

    I agree with wrk101, don't use abrasives like steel wool. Using steel wool is actually more work and produces a less than perfect result. I've used oxalic acid before, and it's effective.... but there is something that you probably already have, that is less toxic: Plain old vinegar. Vinegar is pretty amazing stuff.

    -Make sure that you separate the steel parts from the aluminum (a magnet works for that). That usually means disassembling components into pieces.
    -Wash the rusty bits with warm water and soap
    -Drop part in a small container of vinegar, wait 30 minutes or so and scrub with an old toothbrush
    -Admire shiny clean chrome

    Really rusty parts will take a bit longer.

    I used vinegar to clean the rusty chrome on this bike:
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  15. #15
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    That certainly is a really, really cool bike.
    *Recipient of the 2006 Time Magazine "Man Of The Year" Award*

  16. #16
    Senior Member jar351's Avatar
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    I stand corrected on the abrasives issue. I knew I was going to catch hell for that!

    So vinegar is good for bare steel and chrome but not aluminum?

  17. #17
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    Yeah, it works just like oxalic acid. Both will really ruin aluminum parts. I wouldn't use it on galvanized steel parts either because it will turn dark and nasty.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member jar351's Avatar
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    Ok, that's good to know. Thanks.

  19. #19
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    I should mention that it won't instantly ruin aluminum, it's when you soak it for a prolonged amount of time.
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