Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 23 of 23
  1. #1
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    My new winter project: 1973 De Rosa

    I had been looking for an old De Rosa off and on, then this surreptitiously showed up on CL a few months ago. It was an hour's drive in the mountains, I could hardly wait until I got there the same evening. The seller was a nice lady, the bike belonged to her deceased husband. We had a nice talk about the bike's history, she was happy that I planned to ride it in the same mountains she and her husband rode years earlier.
    In the few hours it had been on CL, she was already getting inquiries from as far as London. I bought it for what I think is a fair price, definitely not a steal.

    The previous owner bought it at Talbot's in Redwood City, she fondly remembered eating rice and beans for months after paying for the hefty price tag back then (which she recalled to be about $1000!). The original color was apparently orange, but was repainted in the '80s. Made me sad hearing that the PO was tired of the color, as Molteni orange is my favorite color. The aero levers were installed recently, the bike shop could not fix or replace the mounting ring of the original NR levers, which I also received. I don't know if there is chrome under the paint in the fork crown.

    So, I intend to refurbish this bike once the rain season starts. I need some suggestions:

    - I am thinking of waxing and applying decals. The paint looks presentable, and I intend to ride this bike. Any reason to go with something other than Cyclomondo?

    - All the pantographed parts need to refreshed with paint. Do I use some kind of paint stripper, or just paint over the existing paint?

    - What is a good paint to use? I have never done this before. I am thinking of going to a hobby store with the decal and matching it to the yellow.

    - The shift levers are bent. I will try to straighten them between blocks of wood in a vise, but I am not sure if they will last. They are nicely cut out, maybe I will try reproducing it with another set of levers.

    - The wheels are first gen Phil Wood hubs laced to unmarked clinchers, look like Rigida. They are practical, but I am also considering a set of Nisi tubulars I have.

    - The levers have a lot of scrapes at the outside tips, obvious signs of use and minor crashes. I can't decide whether I should polish or keep as-is. They are milled and pantographed with faded paint.

    - Needless to say, the seat has to go. I am thinking either Brooks or Cinelli Unicanitor.

    The pictures are as found, after a wash to get most of the dirt off.





    Last edited by MetinUz; 01-09-12 at 07:12 PM.

  2. #2
    Unimatrix Zero whatwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn
    My Bikes
    Vicious Cycles Monolith, '87 Schwinn Tempo, CAAD9 CX, Rick Jones custom 650b
    Posts
    513
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MetinUz View Post
    The seller was a nice lady, the bike belonged to his deceased husband.
    Huh?

    Quote Originally Posted by MetinUz View Post
    What is a good paint to use? I have never done this before. I am thinking of going to a hobby store with the decal and matching it to the yellow.
    You may not find a pre-made yellow that matches, but you might. I ended up mixing Testor's model paint (red, yellow, white) to match the decals on my Peugeot CPX-10 to fill the seat post milling. I'm sure DD will chime in with something more helpful

    I also took some advice from Ray Dobbins' site, particularly his entry on the Molteni Merckx.

  3. #3
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by whatwolf View Post
    Huh?
    Oops, fixed that. I need to re-read after edits.

    Quote Originally Posted by whatwolf View Post
    You may not find a pre-made yellow that matches, but you might. I ended up mixing Testor's model paint (red, yellow, white) to match the decals on my Peugeot CPX-10 to fill the seat post milling. I'm sure DD will chime in with something more helpful

    I also took some advice from Ray Dobbins' site, particularly his entry on the Molteni Merckx.
    More than an exact match, I wonder about the application technique. For example, consider the heart cutout. I can use masking tape and razor blade to mask the outline. Or I can fill with a fine brush or toothpick, or I can just apply the paint and wipe the borders clean. Is there a preferred technique?

    For finer details like the seatpost panto, it seems to me I would have to apply more paint than needed, then wipe it with a clean rag, maybe damp with paint thinner (or water, if water based paint).

  4. #4
    Unimatrix Zero whatwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn
    My Bikes
    Vicious Cycles Monolith, '87 Schwinn Tempo, CAAD9 CX, Rick Jones custom 650b
    Posts
    513
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    A good technique is to just paint without worrying too much about the edges, then cleaning up with thinner. At least for seat posts, stems, etc, where you're painting on an unpainted surface. Toothpicks are a good bet for fine lettering.

    I would think you could do similarly on your frame and fork, but I'm not sure how the paint would react to thinner? Someone else may know better. Wouldn't want to mess up such a nice frame!

  5. #5
    Senior Member flash2070's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Orlando, Florida
    Posts
    609
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Congratulations o your De Rosa, I could just admire it, day after day, after day..... :-) Just beautiful!

    Flash

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    2,431
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Killer De Rosa with some cool and rare parts, hope you will give it a proper resto.

    For the fills use One Shot sign-painters enamel. A quarter pint is about $10 but it is much better than hobby paint and will hold up to the elements. Buy a small lettering brush at an art supply store, again a bit over ten bucks but worth it. With a good brush you will not get brush marks and it will be easier to stay in the lines. Lay in your paint, let it sit up for an hour, then dab a little thinner on a lint free rag and lightly wipe the top of the lettering or any overage. Only wipe once in one direction then use a clean spot of the rag. I use two coats, especially with yellow.

  7. #7
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks Otis. Would you recommend stripping the paint, e.g. on the seatpost flutes? Should I worry that the paint stripper could damage the anodizing?

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    2,431
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MetinUz View Post
    Thanks Otis. Would you recommend stripping the paint, e.g. on the seatpost flutes? Should I worry that the paint stripper could damage the anodizing?
    I would not strip the original paint. Just level it down with some 0000 steel wool. It will act as a primer.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Ed in Toronto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    418
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Beautiful bike, you must be thrilled. I'm sure it's going to be a show piece when you're done restoring it.

    Any more details about the crank set? Looks like Campy cranks but what about the outer chain ring?

    Do you have a close up picture of the crank set?

  10. #10
    Senior Moment Peter_B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    San Diego, California
    Posts
    391
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is that saddle intended for climbers, those who sit back and push into pedals? Interesting design...

  11. #11
    Senior Member Drillium Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA - Center of the Universe
    My Bikes
    69 Masi Special, 71 Mondia Special, 74 Colnago Super, 78 Colnago Super, 78 Medici, 79 Dennis Sparrow, 80 Alpina, 83 Colnago Mexico, 85 Somec Super Corsa, 85 Casati Perfection, 85 Spinella (Olympia), 02 Bill Davidson custom
    Posts
    4,904
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    I'll put in my .02 on the infill paint issue

    What I have always done with good results is use Goof-Off - even on the frame. It's very quick acting on the new infill paint, but not strong enough to go through the established clearcoat/paint given the small amount it will take to remove any new paint. As Otis points out, lightly using a lint-free cloth will give best results, then clean up any remaining residue with denatured alcohol. I also +1 on toothpicks and/or a fine artist's brush.

    As for removing the paint from the alloy components: Goof-Off will not remove the anodizing, nor even hurt the alloy of the non-anodized parts (such as the seatpost). Wipe off the old paint quickly and efficiently with a semi-soaked lint-free cloth. I just removed some orange infill paint from the flutes of a SR seatpost - came off in minutes, and that was paint that had been there for 9 years. You don't have to be anywhere near as careful doing it on parts - just the frame.

    For the deeper, more intricate stuff - like the hearts on the chainring - employ a toothbrush and Goof-Off. Works like a charm.

    And BTW, if you plan on riding that stunner, pull the chainring and set it aside. That's gold

    A fantastic bike you've got there; the lugwork is magnificent and you've just got to admire the fact that it's been very well taken care of for all these years. A great bike for a makeover, but not too much of a makeover

    I'm looking forward to seeing pics of this with new decals and infill paint.

    DD
    My Flickr pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30331021@N08/

    "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike and that's pretty close"

  12. #12
    Senior Member Drillium Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA - Center of the Universe
    My Bikes
    69 Masi Special, 71 Mondia Special, 74 Colnago Super, 78 Colnago Super, 78 Medici, 79 Dennis Sparrow, 80 Alpina, 83 Colnago Mexico, 85 Somec Super Corsa, 85 Casati Perfection, 85 Spinella (Olympia), 02 Bill Davidson custom
    Posts
    4,904
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_B View Post
    Is that saddle intended for climbers, those who sit back and push into pedals? Interesting design...
    Yup - that'll pull a pretty penny on the 'Bay...

    DD
    My Flickr pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30331021@N08/

    "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike and that's pretty close"

  13. #13
    Unimatrix Zero whatwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Brooklyn
    My Bikes
    Vicious Cycles Monolith, '87 Schwinn Tempo, CAAD9 CX, Rick Jones custom 650b
    Posts
    513
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed in Toronto View Post
    Any more details about the crank set? Looks like Campy cranks but what about the outer chain ring?

    Do you have a close up picture of the crank set?
    To my only slightly educated eye looks like Campy Nuovo Record cranks with De Rosa panto-ing. Nice!

  14. #14
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_B View Post
    Is that saddle intended for climbers, those who sit back and push into pedals? Interesting design...
    The saddle is a Concor Sprint, apparently banned by UCI. It's intended to provide back support for seated sprints or time trials. Not my cup of tea, would be happy to swap for a Brooks Pro or Unicanitor if anyone is interested...

    http://velosniper.blogspot.com/2008/...upercorsa.html
    Last edited by MetinUz; 01-09-12 at 11:29 PM.

  15. #15
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Drillium Dude View Post
    And BTW, if you plan on riding that stunner, pull the chainring and set it aside. That's gold
    I would probably ride it just a few hundred miles a year, and most of my rides are either climbing a steep hill in the small ring, or coasting down the other side. I suspect the previous owner was the same, as there is not much wear on the chainring.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Drillium Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA - Center of the Universe
    My Bikes
    69 Masi Special, 71 Mondia Special, 74 Colnago Super, 78 Colnago Super, 78 Medici, 79 Dennis Sparrow, 80 Alpina, 83 Colnago Mexico, 85 Somec Super Corsa, 85 Casati Perfection, 85 Spinella (Olympia), 02 Bill Davidson custom
    Posts
    4,904
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    ^ Good deal - it's worth preserving if you can find another user ring. BTW, if you're looking for an NR brake lever handlebar clamp, PM me.

    I can help you out there

    DD
    My Flickr pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30331021@N08/

    "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike and that's pretty close"

  17. #17
    Lurker
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    859
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    DD, thanks for the offer. I have a couple of spare clamps, not to mention a set of NR levers scratched to hell. I rolled my eyes when I heard the bike shop could not fix the lever. OTOH, I may call on you in reproducing the shift lever drillium if my straightening effort fails.

  18. #18
    Senior Member Drillium Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Seattle, WA - Center of the Universe
    My Bikes
    69 Masi Special, 71 Mondia Special, 74 Colnago Super, 78 Colnago Super, 78 Medici, 79 Dennis Sparrow, 80 Alpina, 83 Colnago Mexico, 85 Somec Super Corsa, 85 Casati Perfection, 85 Spinella (Olympia), 02 Bill Davidson custom
    Posts
    4,904
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MetinUz View Post
    I may call on you in reproducing the shift lever drillium if my straightening effort fails.
    You do that - it's not a terribly involved drilling exercise.

    DD
    My Flickr pics: http://www.flickr.com/photos/30331021@N08/

    "You can't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike and that's pretty close"

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    308
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    wow, super nice... what did you end up paying for it? or would you rather not say?

    shame it was repainted though, but at least it looks like the respray was decent. yellow infill on the lug cutouts and fork crown will really break up all that blue, and finding some period decals is a must! looks like they laid the paint on thick at the seat stay caps though, so you probably won't be able to infill that?

    looks like you can chop a couple inches on the cable routing too, but i'd go with a set of NR brake levers, non aero to keep it period. early 70's derosa with pantographing... that's really fabulous man.

  20. #20
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Philadelphia, PA
    My Bikes
    Two wheeled ones
    Posts
    12,194
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Love it!

  21. #21
    Senior Member rootboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Sand Spit East
    Posts
    12,341
    Mentioned
    61 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    Cool bike. And I'm particularly grateful to be a fly-on-the-wall for these great tips from Otis and D. Dude.
    That's a true classic, MetinUz.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    STP
    Posts
    9,707
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
    Cool bike. And I'm particularly grateful to be a fly-on-the-wall for these great tips from Otis and D. Dude.
    That's a true classic, MetinUz.
    +1

    These gems are out there folks.

    Patience, knowledge, diligence, a little luck, and some cash waiting to burn a hole in your pocket.

    That's what it takes.

  23. #23
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    384
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Awesome bike with fantastic pantographing. Like the hearts on the chainring! Good luck on resto and keep us posted on progress!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •