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Old 01-09-12, 11:51 PM   #1
shnibop 
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Campagnolo NR brake lever issue, loose cable barrel?

so the amazing DD has drilled these levers for me, beautiful right?

i needed to remove a bit more anodizing and do some finish sanding and polishing to get them all ready to go on the Colnago.

during the process, the barrel that holds the cable end came loose. to be more specific, one side of the barrel has apparently been worn down from use and slips out of the lever.

the problem end of the barrel is .2 mm smaller in diameter than the good side.

i've attempted to spread/squish the 'ribbed lip' by placing the lever on a notebook (to absorb the impact) on my workbench and hammer down on the barrel. first with a block of wood, then with a random tool with a domed end that fit within the ribbed ring. this only pinched the cable end in the groove, which then had to be spread slightly to remove the cable.


anyone have any brilliant ideas?

i have a spare lever that a good barrel could be removed from.



IMG_2375 by shnibop, on Flickr


IMG_2376 by shnibop, on Flickr


sorry, no pics of the barrel, you all know what they look like.

i should also mention that the opening on the lever is the same diameter all the way around the circumference of the opening. the barrel is clearly the problem and not the lever.

Last edited by shnibop; 01-09-12 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 01-10-12, 05:07 AM   #2
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Just an opinion here but, I'd would take that spare lever of yours and have it done to match, and get rid of the bad lever. I wouldn't trust it. I've never really looked that closely at my levers but, aren't those barrels put in there at the time of manufacture? I personally wouldn't want to try to replace one in the hole I see in those pics. Spread the lever sides to get it in there? Not for me.
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Old 01-10-12, 07:40 AM   #3
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You asked for ideas? Find or make a REALLY thin washer (could be nylon or plastic) that is larger than the hole in the lever arm. Fit this over the end of the barrel that is loose. Then spread the lever sides and insert the barrel with the washer inside the lever - and close it up again. I really don't know if this would work, but I'd imagine it would stop the barrel from tipping sideways when you pull on the cable and would be less visible than fitting a bush inside the lever hole.

Rootboy suggests you have a spare lever - rather than having that drilled and polished, could you swap the barrel from that lever into your drilled one?

That's it, I'm out of ideas - hope this helps, even if it's only to decide "I'm not going to do that!"
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Old 01-10-12, 08:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shnibop View Post
i've attempted to spread/squish the 'ribbed lip' by placing the lever on a notebook (to absorb the impact) on my workbench and hammer down on the barrel. first with a block of wood, then with a random tool with a domed end that fit within the ribbed ring. this only pinched the cable end in the groove, which then had to be spread slightly to remove the cable..
Your on the right track....wedge a penny or nickle in the slot then wack it good. Something to try is installing the barrel, wedge something in the slot to keep it from closing up and them applying pressure to both sodes of the barrel with a vice.
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Old 01-10-12, 09:20 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
Your on the right track....wedge a penny or nickle in the slot then wack it good. Something to try is installing the barrel, wedge something in the slot to keep it from closing up and them applying pressure to both sodes of the barrel with a vice.
Now THAT sounds like a GOOD idea!
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Old 01-10-12, 01:33 PM   #6
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Or simply send me the good lever and I'll duplicate the drilling as suggested by that old Brit

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Old 01-10-12, 02:30 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rootboy View Post
Just an opinion here but, I'd would take that spare lever of yours and have it done to match, and get rid of the bad lever. I wouldn't trust it. I've never really looked that closely at my levers but, aren't those barrels put in there at the time of manufacture? I personally wouldn't want to try to replace one in the hole I see in those pics. Spread the lever sides to get it in there? Not for me.

my first thought was that i might need DD to do another lever to match, but i wanted to save him the trouble if possible. this issue is definitely not a result of his handy work in any way, just worn out parts.

the barrels are put in at the time of manufacture. nothing wrong with the holes in the lever, it's the barrel that is the problem. spreading the lever and inserting the barrel from within doesn't solve the problem. the opening on the inside and outside of the lever are the same, therefor the good side of the barrel will not fit through.

1 vote for DD doing another lever


Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post
You asked for ideas? Find or make a REALLY thin washer (could be nylon or plastic) that is larger than the hole in the lever arm. Fit this over the end of the barrel that is loose. Then spread the lever sides and insert the barrel with the washer inside the lever - and close it up again. I really don't know if this would work, but I'd imagine it would stop the barrel from tipping sideways when you pull on the cable and would be less visible than fitting a bush inside the lever hole.

Rootboy suggests you have a spare lever - rather than having that drilled and polished, could you swap the barrel from that lever into your drilled one?

That's it, I'm out of ideas - hope this helps, even if it's only to decide "I'm not going to do that!"

not sure i follow. i don't get where the washer will end up at the end of the process. in any case, spreading the lever sides doesn't allow the good side of the barrel through the hole.

2 votes for DD doing another lever


Quote:
Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
Your on the right track....wedge a penny or nickle in the slot then wack it good. Something to try is installing the barrel, wedge something in the slot to keep it from closing up and them applying pressure to both sodes of the barrel with a vice.

i tried this method using a hammer and something between the hammer and barrel to absorb the impact, using a large flat head screwdriver in place of a penny/nickel. then i tried it with a cable end inserted in the barrel. both attempts yielded the same result, nothing. the ribbed ring does not appear to be spreading/widening. the wedge just gets pinched in the opening.


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Originally Posted by Drillium Dude View Post
Or simply send me the good lever and I'll duplicate the drilling as suggested by that old Brit

DD

3 votes for DD doing another lever, done haha

the spare lever i mentioned is not usable unfortunately, it has super deep gouges and half the logo is missing... also, this is the lever i attempted my own drillium on with miserable results.

i have another set of matching levers however one is missing the "O" and the bottom point of the logo and the other is pretty beat up, but i think i can clean it up. there are a few deep scrapes but with a little work i should be able to get it up to par.


thanks for all the tips and ideas everybody! since it's been determined, more or less, that a new lever must be drilled, i will give the vice a go as i've not yet tried that (only a hammer). i will also try to pound out the barrel from that junk lever i mentioned and see what type of damage is done to the lever itself. i doubt that there is any springiness to the aluminum but if the barrel can be freed without expanding the hole in the lever, perhaps pounding it into the drillium lever might work?
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Old 01-10-12, 03:22 PM   #8
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^ You know, we can fix the gouge issue on the spare lever by filing down the "Campagnolo" logo and drilling a series of holes all the way down the front of the lever - and duplicating the process on the good lever I already did.

Email me to discuss. We can get this fixed in one way or the other

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Old 01-10-12, 04:04 PM   #9
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Success!

well i'm not one to force things but i figured since the junk lever was junk and the drillium lever might not be saved (unless i could replace the barrel), i thought i'd give the junker a little pounding.

after using a punch to force the good barrel from the junk lever, i compared the opening measurement to the measurement of the drillium lever... there appeared to be no expansion of the hole (10.2mm on the drillium lever and 10.2mm on the junker after forcing the barrel through), and the barrel lip diameter stayed at 10.4mm, just like the good side of the messed up barrel.

so i used a wood block to pop the newly freed barrel into the drillium lever, and voila, problem solved. the barrel is tightly inserted into the drillium lever and moves freely as it should.

junk lever and DD lever


IMG_2380 by shnibop, on Flickr


now i need to get back to work on the wheels for the Colnago...
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Old 01-10-12, 04:35 PM   #10
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Way to, Shnibob. The thought of trying what you just did makes me shrivel up like a spider on a hot stove. Nevertheless, I like it when a member here gets on, asks for some assistance, gets the feedback from his peers and pals, and then goes ahead and fixes the problem. It doesn't matter much to me whether or not the advice and feedback is used or even good. It's the community and being able to bounce things off other brains that is one of the beauties of the bike forum.
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Old 01-10-12, 04:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamijim View Post
Your on the right track....wedge a penny or nickle in the slot then wack it good. Something to try is installing the barrel, wedge something in the slot to keep it from closing up and them applying pressure to both sodes of the barrel with a vice.
Just keep in mind that all this whacking, spreading, applying pressure, is causing the aluminum to yield. Aluminum takes to that kind of treatment less kindly than does steel. I'd recommend a heck of a hand grip test (squeeze the brake harder than you ever have in the past) after you re-assemble it. If it has been weakened, you want to know before you need full panic brake power on the road.

This is all a risk.
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Old 01-10-12, 05:36 PM   #12
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That was kind of my point as well, in an earlier post. I don't have the guts to mess with a braking component. But, nice fix anyhoo.
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Old 01-10-12, 07:12 PM   #13
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Oh, boy - that's great news! I take it the original barrel adjuster was just to worn to assume further duties...

However, it's also sad news: no additional drillium required

Oh, well; can't win 'em all!

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Old 01-10-12, 09:46 PM   #14
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Instead of testing it can't you put it on the rear wheel? The Cobalto levers, which are a kluge before the Chorus ones which include QR kind of pull the cable around a corner and [if in aero mode] fatigue it. I let one sandbag me one filament after another but when it manifested it only startled rather than hurt me. And to be more pedantic I'll remind everybody that the holes were pierced and not drilled.
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Old 01-11-12, 05:24 PM   #15
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Way to, Shnibob. The thought of trying what you just did makes me shrivel up like a spider on a hot stove. Nevertheless, I like it when a member here gets on, asks for some assistance, gets the feedback from his peers and pals, and then goes ahead and fixes the problem. It doesn't matter much to me whether or not the advice and feedback is used or even good. It's the community and being able to bounce things off other brains that is one of the beauties of the bike forum.
right, i like to bounce ideas off people, see what other options might be out there... never hurts to ask. also, the idea of pounding out the barrel would never have occurred if DD hadn't offered to redo another lever


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Just keep in mind that all this whacking, spreading, applying pressure, is causing the aluminum to yield. Aluminum takes to that kind of treatment less kindly than does steel. I'd recommend a heck of a hand grip test (squeeze the brake harder than you ever have in the past) after you re-assemble it. If it has been weakened, you want to know before you need full panic brake power on the road.

This is all a risk.
duly noted. i will "test" things a bit before tearing up the streets of CA.


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Oh, boy - that's great news! I take it the original barrel adjuster was just to worn to assume further duties...

However, it's also sad news: no additional drillium required

Oh, well; can't win 'em all!

DD
oh DD, i can always come up with something for you to drill


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Instead of testing it can't you put it on the rear wheel? The Cobalto levers, which are a kluge before the Chorus ones which include QR kind of pull the cable around a corner and [if in aero mode] fatigue it. I let one sandbag me one filament after another but when it manifested it only startled rather than hurt me. And to be more pedantic I'll remind everybody that the holes were pierced and not drilled.
not trying to be a smart ass, but i understand about 10% of this post...

edit: ok ok, i reread it a few times... i get it now... i think
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Old 01-11-12, 05:31 PM   #16
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not trying to be a smart ass, but i understand about 10% of this post...

edit: ok ok, i reread it a few times... i get it now... i think
My guess was Babel Fish
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Old 01-16-12, 12:43 PM   #17
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How bad for me; I was able to write in the past. Campagnolo levers without any quick-release (built into the lever,) have broken a cable (invisibly, inside the lever,) presumably one strand at a time. [hopefully less presumptuous post]
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