Show us your Peugeot PX10 !
03-28-12, 07:56 PM
#126
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
4) Upgrading wheels pretty much depends on what you are willing to spend. My first choice in clinchers for a PX would be Normandy Competition hubs with Super Champion rims - but prices on eBay for good vintage rims are way up there, so I have lately recommended Sun M13-ii rims, in lieu of more expensive vintage items. Sun rims look pretty good and they're inexpensive.
Also, I've never built a wheel set before although I've trued wheels (on the bike). If I purchase a truing stand like Feedback Sport's unit shown here:
https://aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/...uct_Code=14897
and look up some good instructions on the internet, how difficult is it to build a set of wheels?
Last edited by jeffberk; 03-28-12 at 07:59 PM.
03-28-12, 08:17 PM
#127
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,303
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 41 Times
in
33 Posts
If I go with the Normandy Competition hubs off of my original tubular's, M13-ii rims purchased from a bike shop or e-bay, what would you suggest for a freewheel? The original, I think a Regina, failed a few years after I purchased it. I'm assuming that the threading on the Normandy hub is still being used unlike that of the pedals.
Also, I've never built a wheel set before although I've trued wheels (on the bike). If I purchase a truing stand like Feedback Sport's unit shown here:
https://aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/...uct_Code=14897
and look up some good instructions on the internet, how difficult is it to build a set of wheels?
Also, I've never built a wheel set before although I've trued wheels (on the bike). If I purchase a truing stand like Feedback Sport's unit shown here:
https://aspirevelotech.com/Merchant2/...uct_Code=14897
and look up some good instructions on the internet, how difficult is it to build a set of wheels?
Insofar as FW's go, I've bought scores of these Sunrace Hyperglide-ramped FW's and have been very satisfied - and you can't beat the price.
I am not familiar with the truing stand you listed but I think practically any stand would be adequate for building a few wheels for your personal use. - (At least it's easier and better than truing them on the bike using your brake calipers as a reference!)
I would recommend that you use the wheel building instructions on Sheldon Brown dot com. (Just google it). They are very clear and it is not difficult to follow.
Selecting your spokes is probably the most critical step - I use this Spoke calculator.
__________________
- Auchen
- Auchen
05-07-12, 02:59 AM
#128
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Belgium
Posts: 664
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
1974 PX10LE
1981 PXN10
1981 PXN10
Last edited by joe v; 05-07-12 at 03:03 AM.
05-08-12, 06:28 AM
#129
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,303
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 41 Times
in
33 Posts
Joe - I can't let this pass without commenting that you and I must be related somehow - I ALSO have a blue one and a white one in the same sizes as yours respectively!
It's a slice of PX10 heaven to choose whichever suits my mood on a given day.
It's a slice of PX10 heaven to choose whichever suits my mood on a given day.
__________________
- Auchen
- Auchen
05-08-12, 06:43 AM
#130
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Belgium
Posts: 664
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Ain't that something! Now don't tell me you've got a red PR10 too
Joseph
Joseph
05-08-12, 06:34 PM
#133
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Bikes: ‘09 Ibis Silk SL, ‘08 Cannondale Synapse, ‘97 Cannondale R300, '96 CKC, '91 Batt., '86 Simoncini Cromor, '85 Allez, '78 PX10, '76 Gran Jubile, '73 Arctic, '73 Interclub, '72 TdF, '71 PX10, '70 Mondia SS, ‘90 Basso Paris Roubai
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Bought frame new in 1978. Built it up and rode for five figure mileage. Sunday bike now due to front end damage, but rides as sweet as ever...
05-23-12, 07:34 PM
#134
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 858
Bikes: Bertoni Corsa Mondiale, Bridgestone T-700, Miyata 700 GT, Trek 600, Trek 560 Professional Series, Chrome Panasonic DX 2000, Peugeot PH12, Peugeot PX10, Schwinn World Voyageur, Schwinn Circuit, and Schwinn Voyageur
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Bikemanbob's PX10
After hanging in my garage for a year, I finally got the nerve to restore my PX10. The French components had me intimidated. I managed to only break the front derailleur. Finishing touches are needed; otherwise it is done.
05-27-12, 04:01 PM
#136
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,303
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 41 Times
in
33 Posts
__________________
- Auchen
- Auchen
05-28-12, 08:43 AM
#137
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Bikes: ‘09 Ibis Silk SL, ‘08 Cannondale Synapse, ‘97 Cannondale R300, '96 CKC, '91 Batt., '86 Simoncini Cromor, '85 Allez, '78 PX10, '76 Gran Jubile, '73 Arctic, '73 Interclub, '72 TdF, '71 PX10, '70 Mondia SS, ‘90 Basso Paris Roubai
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
I think it looks wrong, too. I think I may be missing a small part but not sure...it's basically the same as all my other simplex mechs. Funny thing is, it shifts fine...
05-29-12, 08:33 AM
#139
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Detroit
Posts: 10,303
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 41 Times
in
33 Posts
That' a bummer, but don't despair. There will be another, maybe with more original components even. There are plenty of birds in the sea, as I like to say.
__________________
- Auchen
- Auchen
05-29-12, 10:07 AM
#140
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Looks like a 74ish PA10 to me. Fork unoriginal.
05-30-12, 05:36 PM
#141
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,182
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1562 Post(s)
Liked 1,287 Times
in
858 Posts
More chain wrap equals more continuous power transmission under load, esp. during shifting.
I have hot-rodded various PX10 Simplex derailers to give more chain wrap around different sizes of freewheels, usually by increasing the "A" pivot spring tension, and it always helps with power transmission during hard shifting.
Using ball-bearing pulleys allows increased chain tensioning with virtually no increase in frictional power losses, and if the original ball bearing pulleys are cracked, I substitute Huret ball-bearing pulleys adjusted with Gr25 1/8" ball bearings.
You have to be careful when messing with a sprung Simplex mounting pivot though, because turning the mounting bolt with a 6mm Allen wrench will shear the bolt away from the tensioning plate fitted with flats on the other end, and then it's difficult to get enough tension into that spring!
05-31-12, 12:02 PM
#143
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Bikes: ‘09 Ibis Silk SL, ‘08 Cannondale Synapse, ‘97 Cannondale R300, '96 CKC, '91 Batt., '86 Simoncini Cromor, '85 Allez, '78 PX10, '76 Gran Jubile, '73 Arctic, '73 Interclub, '72 TdF, '71 PX10, '70 Mondia SS, ‘90 Basso Paris Roubai
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
I'll check it tonight. I know the part your talking about. Either it's missing or out of position. Will let you know. Per dddd, it shifts very nicely as is...pulleys well clear of the sprockets. Like the idea of substituting the Huret pulleys--have a bunch of those! Thanks all...
05-31-12, 08:31 PM
#145
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Bikes: ‘09 Ibis Silk SL, ‘08 Cannondale Synapse, ‘97 Cannondale R300, '96 CKC, '91 Batt., '86 Simoncini Cromor, '85 Allez, '78 PX10, '76 Gran Jubile, '73 Arctic, '73 Interclub, '72 TdF, '71 PX10, '70 Mondia SS, ‘90 Basso Paris Roubai
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
Following up...the tabbed washer is present, only on this mech (a Peugeot branded sx410) there's a wide tab and a narrow one. I had it set to the narrow one, but I think that orientation is wrong. I switched it so the wide tab hits the front of the hanger and the angle is about 45* from level--better, but still not typical. Also, I couldn't fully tighten the mounting bolt as it would lock the pivot in place. Maybe missing a washer?
I compared it to a Super LJ I have--the tabbed washer for that one has only a single tab and it would hold the Super LJ near vertical, which seems right...
Anyway, it still shifts fine in the new orientation. Just hope the mounting bolt doesn't work lose.
I compared it to a Super LJ I have--the tabbed washer for that one has only a single tab and it would hold the Super LJ near vertical, which seems right...
Anyway, it still shifts fine in the new orientation. Just hope the mounting bolt doesn't work lose.
06-01-12, 10:18 PM
#146
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,182
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1562 Post(s)
Liked 1,287 Times
in
858 Posts
I'm assuming that you are using the bolt that threads int the back end of the mounting/pivot bolt?
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
Last edited by dddd; 06-01-12 at 10:56 PM.
06-02-12, 07:34 AM
#147
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 52
Bikes: ‘09 Ibis Silk SL, ‘08 Cannondale Synapse, ‘97 Cannondale R300, '96 CKC, '91 Batt., '86 Simoncini Cromor, '85 Allez, '78 PX10, '76 Gran Jubile, '73 Arctic, '73 Interclub, '72 TdF, '71 PX10, '70 Mondia SS, ‘90 Basso Paris Roubai
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times
in
3 Posts
I'm assuming that you are using the bolt that threads int the back end of the mounting/pivot bolt?
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
06-02-12, 08:28 AM
#148
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
I'm assuming that you are using the bolt that threads int the back end of the mounting/pivot bolt?
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
That's what is supposed to lock everything in place and with smooth pivoting action.
Alternatively, you could "set" the mounting bolt into whatever it's threaded into using LocTite threadlocker. If it works on the Harley...
08-06-12, 01:48 PM
#149
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: York, PA
Posts: 551
Bikes: '72 Peugeot PX-10; '74 Raleigh International; '87 Specialized RockHopper; '88 Specialized StumpJumper; '02 Cannondale Scalpel
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times
in
5 Posts
1968 Peugeot PX-10, one owner
This is a current photo of my Peugeot PX-10, which I purchased new in 1968.
Over the past year, I have sought out NOS (new old stock) parts on e-bay to restore the bike to its original condition.
Over the past month, I have cleaned, polished, touch-up painted, and finally, waxed the frame/forks.
All parts were removed and cleaned with Park Tool CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite, a great product.
I have cleaned/repacked the bottom bracket and both hubs.
Then, installed the new derailleurs, brake levers, crank caps, all cables, one new tubular.
Finally, adjusted everything and test rode (popping the sidewall of a 35 year old tubular).
It is a fine bike, all 21 pounds of it. The Brooks saddle feels so good. The bike goes fast, handles stiff, is very responsive. The Mafac 'Racer' brakes haul down to stop.
It is a nicely balanced racing bike from a different era. It is vintage, it is cool.
Thanks for looking.
Over the past year, I have sought out NOS (new old stock) parts on e-bay to restore the bike to its original condition.
Over the past month, I have cleaned, polished, touch-up painted, and finally, waxed the frame/forks.
All parts were removed and cleaned with Park Tool CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite, a great product.
I have cleaned/repacked the bottom bracket and both hubs.
Then, installed the new derailleurs, brake levers, crank caps, all cables, one new tubular.
Finally, adjusted everything and test rode (popping the sidewall of a 35 year old tubular).
It is a fine bike, all 21 pounds of it. The Brooks saddle feels so good. The bike goes fast, handles stiff, is very responsive. The Mafac 'Racer' brakes haul down to stop.
It is a nicely balanced racing bike from a different era. It is vintage, it is cool.
Thanks for looking.
Last edited by Peugeotlover; 08-06-12 at 01:54 PM.
08-06-12, 05:31 PM
#150
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: vermont
Posts: 3,081
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
This is a current photo of my Peugeot PX-10, which I purchased new in 1968.
Over the past year, I have sought out NOS (new old stock) parts on e-bay to restore the bike to its original condition.
Over the past month, I have cleaned, polished, touch-up painted, and finally, waxed the frame/forks.
All parts were removed and cleaned with Park Tool CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite, a great product.
I have cleaned/repacked the bottom bracket and both hubs.
Then, installed the new derailleurs, brake levers, crank caps, all cables, one new tubular.
Finally, adjusted everything and test rode (popping the sidewall of a 35 year old tubular).
It is a fine bike, all 21 pounds of it. The Brooks saddle feels so good. The bike goes fast, handles stiff, is very responsive. The Mafac 'Racer' brakes haul down to stop.
It is a nicely balanced racing bike from a different era. It is vintage, it is cool.
Thanks for looking.
Over the past year, I have sought out NOS (new old stock) parts on e-bay to restore the bike to its original condition.
Over the past month, I have cleaned, polished, touch-up painted, and finally, waxed the frame/forks.
All parts were removed and cleaned with Park Tool CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite, a great product.
I have cleaned/repacked the bottom bracket and both hubs.
Then, installed the new derailleurs, brake levers, crank caps, all cables, one new tubular.
Finally, adjusted everything and test rode (popping the sidewall of a 35 year old tubular).
It is a fine bike, all 21 pounds of it. The Brooks saddle feels so good. The bike goes fast, handles stiff, is very responsive. The Mafac 'Racer' brakes haul down to stop.
It is a nicely balanced racing bike from a different era. It is vintage, it is cool.
Thanks for looking.
It's really cool that you are the original owner. More pics would be cool if you have them.