Insights for 1" carbon fork?
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Insights for 1" carbon fork?
not trying to commit blasphemy here. outta pure curiosity, in fact.
could there be a C&V friendly—or at least tolerable—1" carbon fork?
i do see some 'hybrid' 1" carbon forks around—those with aluminum threaded stem + carbon legs
in a slightly 'older' style than the contemporary, beefy, straight, monocoque sorta, 1 1/8" ones.
been just wondering although i know the era those thing was introduced wouldn't exactly match the C&V era.
could there be specific ones i'd need to look for if i'd ever want to build one with carbon fork still in the world of classic L&F?
many thanks for your kind inputs in advance!
could there be a C&V friendly—or at least tolerable—1" carbon fork?
i do see some 'hybrid' 1" carbon forks around—those with aluminum threaded stem + carbon legs
in a slightly 'older' style than the contemporary, beefy, straight, monocoque sorta, 1 1/8" ones.
been just wondering although i know the era those thing was introduced wouldn't exactly match the C&V era.
could there be specific ones i'd need to look for if i'd ever want to build one with carbon fork still in the world of classic L&F?
many thanks for your kind inputs in advance!
Last edited by orangeology; 10-15-12 at 01:50 PM. Reason: edit
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There were a bunch of decent 1" threaded CF forks. Serotta F1 and Kestrel EMS for exmple. There are still some available as well...Wound-Up for sure.
In threadless, there were F1s, Kestrel EMS Pro, Time Featherlights, and Look HSCs to start.
For new production threadless, I would look at the Columbus Minimal or Ritchey Pro...Serotta F3 if you can stomach the $600 price tag!
In threadless, there were F1s, Kestrel EMS Pro, Time Featherlights, and Look HSCs to start.
For new production threadless, I would look at the Columbus Minimal or Ritchey Pro...Serotta F3 if you can stomach the $600 price tag!
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also curious, i know nashbar makes one but the blades are a little too fat for my liking
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buldogge, are you saying that it's possible to replace a 1" threaded fork with a threadless fork?
Are there any lower-priced such carbon forks? I might pay $100 or $200, but not more.
Are there any lower-priced such carbon forks? I might pay $100 or $200, but not more.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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Personally, I opt for a good condition Reynolds Ouzo.
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If you hit Wiggle at the right time I have seen them selling the Columbus Minimal for $202 shipped.
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The Performance and Nashbar 1" threaded forks are generally about as thin as you're going to get in CF, unless you run across a particularly older model. Removing the lettering on some helps to make them look skinnier. I've tried 1" threaded CF forks on several bikes, always return to the OEM. So far, anyway. I'd think $100 would easily buy you a decent one.
The conversion is not hard to 1" threadless, but appearance-wise, sometimes they look a little out of place. For Cannondales, it's a great idea, in my opinion.
The conversion is not hard to 1" threadless, but appearance-wise, sometimes they look a little out of place. For Cannondales, it's a great idea, in my opinion.
#9
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The old Time Pro Equip threaded is thin. Nice fork and pretty light for a steel steerer. Easton made a few carbon forks as well as Kinesis.
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I have the Nashbar 1 inch threaded fork on two of my bikes. It's OK, but not a significant weight saver compared to steel (especially if you have a long steerer tube). The steel forks that I have ride about the same, descend better, and brake hard much better. Ride on both carbon and steel is pretty good though. On the bikes that the CF forks are mounted on, they were bare frames when they came to me. I'd do the carbon over aluminum, but if you have the original steel bike and it's cromo, I'd leave well enough alone. To really save weight you need a carbon steerer, and nothing in 1 inch is reasonably priced.
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A nice steel fork in 1" (531/SL/etc) is not easy to find or cheap either though. Not to knock the Nashbar cf fork, but it's quality is not that great. I have a 1" Reynolds Ouzo Pro on a vintage frame and a 1" Columbus Muscle on a modern 853 steel frame and have had zero problems braking or descending. I do agree that unless you need a fork for a build or want to drop some weight your probably just as well off sticking with the original steel fork.
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The Performance and Nashbar 1" threaded forks are generally about as thin as you're going to get in CF, unless you run across a particularly older model. Removing the lettering on some helps to make them look skinnier. I've tried 1" threaded CF forks on several bikes, always return to the OEM. So far, anyway. I'd think $100 would easily buy you a decent one.
The conversion is not hard to 1" threadless, but appearance-wise, sometimes they look a little out of place. For Cannondales, it's a great idea, in my opinion.
The conversion is not hard to 1" threadless, but appearance-wise, sometimes they look a little out of place. For Cannondales, it's a great idea, in my opinion.
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I just ordered up one of the Minimals from Wiggle for $200...couldn't pass it up. I'm gonna replace the Time Featherlight on my Chesini which is a little lightweight for my size (185#).
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This may be a dead end, but what about trying a local LBS that might have 'take off' forks, like the carbon forks off older Treks and LeMonds that are oval shaped rather than bladed? I know they'll probably be heavier, but perhaps better manufacturing quality than the current crop of aftermarket forks, and might be around in a 1" threaded size.
Just a thought...
Just a thought...
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This may be a dead end, but what about trying a local LBS that might have 'take off' forks, like the carbon forks off older Treks and LeMonds that are oval shaped rather than bladed? I know they'll probably be heavier, but perhaps better manufacturing quality than the current crop of aftermarket forks, and might be around in a 1" threaded size.
thanks for all the infos, folks. really helped me organize the plan. really appreciated.
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it's slightly more than 200 on Wiggle, although it seems the best price.
will keep searching. thanks!
btw,
'cutting off' the carbon steerer—when monocoque—to match the headtube length(with headset unit of course) is FINE, right?
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Can you drill out the steel steerer tube to reduce weight?
It seems to me that the stresses on this part are pretty low. Minimal torque. No compression. No tension. No bending. Why does all that steel have to be there?
It seems to me that the stresses on this part are pretty low. Minimal torque. No compression. No tension. No bending. Why does all that steel have to be there?
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by far this is the best looking and functioning option, i vote.
it's slightly more than 200 on Wiggle, although it seems the best price.
will keep searching. thanks!
btw,
'cutting off' the carbon steerer—when monocoque—to match the headtube length(with headset unit of course) is FINE, right?
it's slightly more than 200 on Wiggle, although it seems the best price.
will keep searching. thanks!
btw,
'cutting off' the carbon steerer—when monocoque—to match the headtube length(with headset unit of course) is FINE, right?
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$200.xx with code 10-OFF...ordered this morning.
You cut CF steerers with a fine tooth hacksaw blade and a cutting guide (ie Park Tool, or at least a pair of hose clamps).
Leave 5 mm of steerer above the stem and use a 10mm spacer above the stem at your final cut. First cut should leave room for 20mm below and above, allowing for fine tuning and final stem/angle selection.
You cut CF steerers with a fine tooth hacksaw blade and a cutting guide (ie Park Tool, or at least a pair of hose clamps).
Leave 5 mm of steerer above the stem and use a 10mm spacer above the stem at your final cut. First cut should leave room for 20mm below and above, allowing for fine tuning and final stem/angle selection.
by far this is the best looking and functioning option, i vote.
it's slightly more than 200 on Wiggle, although it seems the best price.
will keep searching. thanks!
btw,
'cutting off' the carbon steerer—when monocoque—to match the headtube length(with headset unit of course) is FINE, right?
it's slightly more than 200 on Wiggle, although it seems the best price.
will keep searching. thanks!
btw,
'cutting off' the carbon steerer—when monocoque—to match the headtube length(with headset unit of course) is FINE, right?
Last edited by buldogge; 10-17-12 at 03:30 PM.
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$200.xx with code 10-OFF...ordered this morning.
You cut CF steerers with a fine tooth hacksaw blade and a cutting guide (ie Park Tool, or at least a pair of hose clamps).
Leave 5 mm of steerer above the stem and use a 10mm spacer above the stem at your final cut. First cut should leave room for 20mm below and above, allowing for fine tuning and final stem/angle selection.
You cut CF steerers with a fine tooth hacksaw blade and a cutting guide (ie Park Tool, or at least a pair of hose clamps).
Leave 5 mm of steerer above the stem and use a 10mm spacer above the stem at your final cut. First cut should leave room for 20mm below and above, allowing for fine tuning and final stem/angle selection.
all i remember is that just went to Wiggle just to check if the code still works.
when my consciousness was back in commission, there was a receipt in my hands.
i... am just gonna see if it's still attractive as in the photo when delivered. that's it...
i could really "decide" when i see it, right?
thanks for the code, @buldogge
//
i've actually checked a few shops in NYC today to check any luck.
one small mtb shop in chinatown surprisingly had one 1" road fork loose.
owner said they wouldn't usually have it, that was for one of their customers.
it was Kinetic—don't remember the model name—and i did not like its bulkiness and, most of all, the weight.
it was an integrated one with alloy steerer tube, and i couldn't even fill any big difference with a steel fork...
#23
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i... did it.
all i remember is that just went to Wiggle just to check if the code still works.
when my consciousness was back in commission, there was a receipt in my hands.
i... am just gonna see if it's still attractive as in the photo when delivered. that's it...
i could really "decide" when i see it, right?
thanks for the code, @buldogge
//
i've actually checked a few shops in NYC today to check any luck.
one small mtb shop in chinatown surprisingly had one 1" road fork loose.
owner said they wouldn't usually have it, that was for one of their customers.
it was Kinetic—don't remember the model name—and i did not like its bulkiness and, most of all, the weight.
it was an integrated one with alloy steerer tube, and i couldn't even fill any big difference with a steel fork...
all i remember is that just went to Wiggle just to check if the code still works.
when my consciousness was back in commission, there was a receipt in my hands.
i... am just gonna see if it's still attractive as in the photo when delivered. that's it...
i could really "decide" when i see it, right?
thanks for the code, @buldogge
//
i've actually checked a few shops in NYC today to check any luck.
one small mtb shop in chinatown surprisingly had one 1" road fork loose.
owner said they wouldn't usually have it, that was for one of their customers.
it was Kinetic—don't remember the model name—and i did not like its bulkiness and, most of all, the weight.
it was an integrated one with alloy steerer tube, and i couldn't even fill any big difference with a steel fork...
I don't have enough experience with the current crop of CF forks to know what their lifespan really is.
Glad you found the fork you wanted, though!
#24
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If it was an older fork, that's what the technology was back then; trying to balance ride quality with some level of longevity.
I don't have enough experience with the current crop of CF forks to know what their lifespan really is.
Glad you found the fork you wanted, though!
I don't have enough experience with the current crop of CF forks to know what their lifespan really is.
Glad you found the fork you wanted, though!
just wanted to see what it looks like.
still feel like i am doing some kinda blasphemy. a carbon fork... what am i doing?
perhaps a little bit, just a little bit, get terribly comfy by the red bird decal, i guess?
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I have a Columbus Minimal on my Casati..bought it at Wiggle also...It does look as good in person as on the site, and it rides really nice,too...I think you're going to be very happy with it
i... did it.
all i remember is that just went to Wiggle just to check if the code still works.
when my consciousness was back in commission, there was a receipt in my hands.
i... am just gonna see if it's still attractive as in the photo when delivered. that's it...
i could really "decide" when i see it, right?
thanks for the code, @buldogge
//
i've actually checked a few shops in NYC today to check any luck.
one small mtb shop in chinatown surprisingly had one 1" road fork loose.
owner said they wouldn't usually have it, that was for one of their customers.
it was Kinetic—don't remember the model name—and i did not like its bulkiness and, most of all, the weight.
it was an integrated one with alloy steerer tube, and i couldn't even fill any big difference with a steel fork...
all i remember is that just went to Wiggle just to check if the code still works.
when my consciousness was back in commission, there was a receipt in my hands.
i... am just gonna see if it's still attractive as in the photo when delivered. that's it...
i could really "decide" when i see it, right?
thanks for the code, @buldogge
//
i've actually checked a few shops in NYC today to check any luck.
one small mtb shop in chinatown surprisingly had one 1" road fork loose.
owner said they wouldn't usually have it, that was for one of their customers.
it was Kinetic—don't remember the model name—and i did not like its bulkiness and, most of all, the weight.
it was an integrated one with alloy steerer tube, and i couldn't even fill any big difference with a steel fork...