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Old 02-15-12, 02:30 PM   #1
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File under "Better Late Than Never" (pic heavy)

I picked up this partial Peugeot UO-14 a year ago. I decided to make it a winter bike and have it ready by the end of October. Better late than never!



When I started to get in to it I found a stuck stem and ended up destroying it removing it. Also had a mishap with the left crank arm when I tried to pull it.



This thread details the early stages of the build.
Thanks to a few bikeforums friends, especially pastorbob who traded me for the rear hub, the parts started to come together.
This bike was built around a Sturmey-Archer AW 3-speed hub. I decided to use 27" wheels because I had a wheelset from a 1984 Trek 620 that I sold as a frameset. The rims are Matrix Anodic T. The rear wheel had a Helicomatic setup that was skipping, so I cut out the spokes and relaced, using brass washers to help the spoke heads seat in the thin steel flanges of the AW hub.
I also need to credit rhm for all his helpful answers. Every thread I posted about this build has an answer from him in it.



The shifter is from a Raleigh Twenty, I think. When I was cleaning it up I discovered a cool feature, a visual gear indicator. Here you can see a yellow mark in the handle. I retouched the indicator with some model paint. Red=Low, Yellow=Neutral, Blue=High.
Brake levers are from a mountain bike.

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Old 02-15-12, 02:33 PM   #2
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So where exactly is a full picture of this awesome frankenbike?
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Old 02-15-12, 02:38 PM   #3
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So where exactly is a full picture of this awesome frankenbike?
+1 What's up with that BluesDaddy?
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Old 02-15-12, 02:39 PM   #4
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That RHM is a pretty cool guy. Really knows his stuff.

+1 to RaleighSport's request - Let's see the whole bike.
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Old 02-15-12, 02:39 PM   #5
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I had a Vetta rack and a Jandd commuter pannier, and I found a mate for the pannier on eBay, which I snapped up. The fenders are Velo Orange fluted. They had been on a different bike, but weren't a good fit, so they came to this bike.

The lighting is a home-made affair. The headlight I made years ago using an Internet recipe involving 12V halogen bulbs, plumbing couplings/caps for the housings, and a 3-way lamp switch. The tail light is a DOT marker light made for trucks. The battery is a Radio Shack alarm backup battery. Very heavy but provides insane run time.





I tucked a toggle for the rear light under the rack.




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Old 02-15-12, 02:43 PM   #6
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I'm still liking it a lot, and I'm not trying to be picky here... but I know you know how to do a "proper" bike picture, where's my drive side straight on shot of the bike dammit? Also, what's this insane run time amount to from the heavy duty battery? I really like the bike though, looks like something I'd do only as done by someone who knew what the hell they were doing
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Old 02-15-12, 02:44 PM   #7
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The gearing was intended to be a 2-range chain setup on the 3-speed hub, giving 6 speeds. I am still sorting out the cog setup on the hub. In the course of reading Sheldon Brown's writings on the subject of Sturmey-Archer hubs, I found out that you can grind Shimano cassette cogs to fit S-A hubs.
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Old 02-15-12, 02:48 PM   #8
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I like it!! I think the VO fluted mudguards are/were my favorite. How is the SA AW working out so far? How do you like the twist shifter?
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Old 02-15-12, 02:52 PM   #9
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The gearing was intended to be a 2-range chain setup on the 3-speed hub, giving 6 speeds. I am still sorting out the cog setup on the hub. In the course of reading Sheldon Brown's writings on the subject of Sturmey-Archer hubs, I found out that you can grind Shimano cassette cogs to fit S-A hubs.
So do you plan to grind off that horrible looking appendage below the axle?
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Old 02-15-12, 03:20 PM   #10
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Sorry, trying to get kids going on their homework and other domestic chores. More pics coming.

Here I am grinding the splines on a Shimano cog to fit it to the hub.



Unfortunately, the stack height of 2 Shimano cogs plus the neccesary spacer is just a bit more than the space on the driver of the hub. I think I'm going to let this remain a 3-speed for now. I might have the break down a buy a chain and a couple cogs made for 10-speed Shimano, assuming they're just thin enough to fit. Eventually I want the hub to have 18T and 28T cogs. The crank has 38T and 28T rings, and the outer postion has a ring with the teeth ground off to form a chain guard. I was intending to hand-shift between my 2 "ranges" with the high range for flatter terrain, and the low range for climbing my 10% grade hill when loaded with groceries.



The KORE Chain Reactor tensioner is intended to help make gear changes without moving the rear wheel in the dropout.
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Old 02-15-12, 03:20 PM   #11
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So do you plan to grind off that horrible looking appendage below the axle?
That would be an "own goal" if he wants to use two sprockets!

Oops! I stand corrected, just read Bluesdaddy's latest post!
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Old 02-15-12, 03:23 PM   #12
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Question: Why are you grinding Shimano drivers when they still make SA ones?
and you never did answer how many hours you get out of that battery.
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Old 02-15-12, 03:25 PM   #13
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I'm still liking it a lot, and I'm not trying to be picky here... but I know you know how to do a "proper" bike picture, where's my drive side straight on shot of the bike dammit? Also, what's this insane run time amount to from the heavy duty battery? I really like the bike though, looks like something I'd do only as done by someone who knew what the hell they were doing
Patience, my friend.



Battery run time is "leave it on a shelf in the basement for 2 years and it still turns on."
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Old 02-15-12, 03:43 PM   #14
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My philosophy on this build was to have a multi-gear bike with no derailleurs. The 3-speed hub gets me part-way there. I live on a ridiculously steep hill and the point of this bike is to be able to go to the grocery store in any weather. The range of gears on the hub is okay, but in order to have a hill-climbing gear under 25", I would sacrifice having a "fast" gear. Thus I decided to have 2 ranges with equal chain wrap. (38-18 & 28-28) That way I just need a tensioner to help change ranges by hand. I could stop at the bottom of my hill and move the chain over. Since I'm having difficulty fitting cogs this will have to wait a while.

Gear chart using Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator:

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Old 02-15-12, 03:49 PM   #15
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Are any of the larger driver cogs (I know they have a wider spread from where they mount), large enough over to perhaps run a narrow chain? I like your idea and it seems doable.
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Old 02-15-12, 05:45 PM   #16
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BluesDaddy, I have an idea... Why not try it using a standard 14t and 24t 3-spline cog? It will get you under 25 gear inches. I'll give you the 24t cog if you're interested.



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File Type: jpg gears.jpg (91.4 KB, 82 views)
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Old 02-15-12, 05:57 PM   #17
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Looks like fun. I've been kicking the idea of building a flat bar roadie for a while myself. How do you like the ride?

Y'all have snow up there in the great white north?
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Old 02-15-12, 09:04 PM   #18
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Joel is being modest when he says he ives on a "hill." More like the side of a mountain! He needs to save 1/4 of his energy for the final mile home.
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Old 02-15-12, 09:36 PM   #19
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I like it!! I think the VO fluted mudguards are/were my favorite. How is the SA AW working out so far? How do you like the twist shifter?
The hub is shifting beautifully. It took no effort to adjust at all. I just set the cable tension slightly slack in "High". The bearings are freshly greased and the hub has a slosh of transmission fluid in it. The only quirk is that it sometimes needs a bit of back-pedal to allow the shifter to do its thing. The shifter itself is fine. I do have to be cautious not to shift inadvertently because the entire grip moves, unlike Sram where only part of the grip moves.
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Old 02-15-12, 09:45 PM   #20
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Looks like fun. I've been kicking the idea of building a flat bar roadie for a while myself. How do you like the ride?

Y'all have snow up there in the great white north?
That snow fell quite a while ago. We haven't had any in about a month! Very strange winter. I usually have 3' snowbanks along my driveway by this time.

The ride is great. By nature the steel frame and chill geometry are nice. Add to that the 27" wheels and wide 50psi tires and it's even better. Also the really wide bars give a nice stable feel to the steering.
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Old 02-15-12, 09:53 PM   #21
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BluesDaddy, I have an idea... Why not try it using a standard 14t and 24t 3-spline cog? It will get you under 25 gear inches. I'll give you the 24t cog if you're interested.

Wow, thanks! Those ratios would work. I think 2 Sturmey cogs will fit on the driver; they just need to be dished to allow space for the chain. I know that the larger cogs are dished but 15T and smaller are flat. Also, is that cog compatible with narrow 7spd chain?
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Old 02-15-12, 10:28 PM   #22
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Also had a mishap with the left crank arm when I tried to pull it.

this isnt the first time i have seen this with a park (provided that is one) crank puller. my dad measured the threads on his park and they were noticeably undersized. he threw it away and replaced it with a campagnolo puller ($35). to this day i refuse to use a park crank puller.
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Old 02-15-12, 10:37 PM   #23
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I just tallied up the different parts and I think about 13 different bikes gave something to this bike.

Peugeot frame, fork.
Original to the bike:
Headset - Peugeot
Seatpost - SR Laprade
Saddle - Avocet Touring
Rear brake - MAFAC Racer

Not original / source:
Stem Profile Design / NOS, sport shop dollar bin
Bar generic steel riser / sport shop dollar bin (bar is undersize so I made a shim)
Brake levers Dia-Compe XCE-SS / Bridgestone MB-5 parts bike
Front brake MAFAC Racer / Old Spokes Home, Burlington VT
Brake pads Jagwire (new) / Old Spokes Home
Shifter Sturmey-Archer twist grip / bikeforums' supton
Left grip Shimano 333 dummy / supton
Front wheel Normandy Luxe Comp - Matrix Anodic T / Trek 620
Rear wheel Sturmey-Archer AW - Matrix Anodic T / pastorbob & Trek 620
Crank Shimano FC-6206 / Trek 620
Chainrings steel Shimano MTB/ parts bin
BB Shimano / parts bin
Cog Shimano / saved when I replaceed a broken freehub body for a friend
Rack Vetta / yard sale years ago
Fenders VO fluted / formerly on my Shogun
Cable housing retro silver / parts MTB
Chain tensioner KORE / parts bin
Chain ? / parts bin
Tires Kenda K161 / biketiresdirect.com

Last edited by BluesDaddy; 02-15-12 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 02-16-12, 12:17 AM   #24
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Wow, thanks! Those ratios would work. I think 2 Sturmey cogs will fit on the driver; they just need to be dished to allow space for the chain. I know that the larger cogs are dished but 15T and smaller are flat. Also, is that cog compatible with narrow 7spd chain?
Despite my suggesting it, I'm suspecting otherwise now. SA cogs say for 1/8 only and aren't narrow 7's 3/32's?
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Old 02-16-12, 04:08 AM   #25
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this isnt the first time i have seen this with a park (provided that is one) crank puller. my dad measured the threads on his park and they were noticeably undersized. he threw it away and replaced it with a campagnolo puller ($35). to this day i refuse to use a park crank puller.
Stronglight crank puller tool was probably the correct tool to use on this crankarm.....maybe it's French...Park tool is not designed for this type of thread.
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