rootboy 

I'm using Safari and I don't see it either. ????

Harlan

Either way, here's a link to the unembedable pic:

https://www.dewielersite.net/db2/wiel...21BK1972EM.jpg

I require hourly updates on this build thread.

vjp

ok, how did you link to it if it isn't here anymore? And how was it here, and visible yesterday, and today nothing?

Harlan

I quoted the post to get the link, other than that I've got nothing. Maybe the guy who is hosting the pic got a ton of traffic and disabled embedding. Wouldn't be the first time.

vjp

Color suggestions/feedback???

I have been thinking about re-paint color/style for this bike and part of that would influence whether I would leave the for crown alone or not. I would love some discussion about this!

A. Faema colors - warm white with red headtube/seat tube panel. Leave the fork crown filled but clean it up and smooth it out.

B. Warm white - chrome yellow accents in the lug fills. Leave crown as is or back to original and re-plate.

C. Sammontana Yellow - yellow base with pearl top coat, this is probably the original color, fork crown is plated and details are turquoise blue.

D. Other??

Drillium Dude 

My vote would be for the Faema color scheme - yellow and white just never have done it for me. Two colors that barely contrast IMHO. The red and white will pop

And I'm just not a fan of yellow, period.

You could also consider Molteni Orange

DD

Otis

As much as I like the Faema colors, a Sammontana dressed Masi is pretty much near the top of my list for an early 70's race bike. Plus you do not see a whole lot of them, original or repaints.

White with chrome-yellow is a little too "Confente".

repechage

Faema color scheme, leave the crown painted, as to whether to dig it out or not... All the painted crown Faema frames that I have seen images of had red paint accents. One could just run the red around to the brake mount. I would rattle can and testors brush paint to see first. Easy to strip. If you go Faema... what graphics?
First generation?
Second generation?
True Faema graphics? Daring to be different.

Or, the Masi white and the second generation graphics with the downtube rectangle filled with the red background, red Brev. Masi on the chain stays and red signature, red window fills. Chrome crown. Palmares box facing left, white background. I have seen this and it appears quite handsome, not Faema, but still cool.

Or, "Sammo" yellow but the window color is actually a medium blue to match the downtube rectangle background. Chrome crown. Sammo yellow was a great color and not too common.

repechage

Interesting you mention that, a number of the bikes Mario built specially had contrasting head tubes, not all, but it is not without mention.

repechage

The original Masi Orange Red is kind of salmon. In the later Prestige era, Alberto used a more true orange, with a pearl finish.

Some colors for me just get very strong associations, Molteni Orange is Colnago and also DeRosa acceptable.

vjp

Already have 3 Molteni Orange bikes!!

vjp

Well, the bike was probably yellow originally as there is yellow paint in the seat tube and traces in the chain stays. The Sammontana paint was yellow base with pearl top. Not really my fave color, but as Otis says, pretty unique for the era....

vjp

hmmm,

Drillium Dude 

Oh, I was just being facetious - I have three orange bikes myself



DD

Citoyen du Monde

I have a 1968 bike that belonged to Bettinelli who rode for Faema. It has a twin-plate fork crown too, but with round blades. With Universal Super 68 brakes.

vjp

And yours are actually finished, and rideable!! Plus beautiful.

vjp

WOW!!

Do you have pics anywhere?

I also have been meaning to ask you about "Nino". It is hand written in script in the concave of one of the seat stay caps. I believe that it means "son of" or the equivalent of "Jr." Is that correct? Would it ever become a nickname in Italy like Jr. would in N.A.? Do you have any recollection of a Pro with the nickname "Nino"?

Thanks.

vjp

I decided to go ahead and attempt to restore the twin plate fork to it's original glory.

With feedback, photos, measurements and advice from Otis and Repechage I drilled through the brass fill in 7 or more incremental steps finishing with 7/32". After the very first hole I could see that it wasn't solid all the way through, it had been filled from the front and back, and there was a void. This helped tremendously as I could see with a loupe and back light how far I was from all the critical bits that I don't want to damage.

Repechage posted that he has 3 of these crowns and that they tend to float. He was right, but because of the the void I could drill each hole slowly form each side and compensate for that.

I didn't touch any original steel!!







Next stop, files, rifflers, emery