silvercreek

I received a set of 1953 Rudge Sports brake caliper and lever setup and they are in great condition. Someone either did an exceptional job cleaning them up or they never got used. Having said that, I think I may have an issue with the rear caliper mounting correctly. The cross tube on my Raleigh Sports has a round boss mount for the original caliper. As you can see in the picture, the rear caliper has a radius that has to mate with the horizontal tube. All of the picture I've looked at for Raleigh 3 peed brake calipers they look the same to me.

Has the mounting hardware on Raleigh 3 speeds changed over the years?

rookgirl

That looks identical to my 1972 Raleigh Superbe caliper. Don't know if that helps...

silvercreek

Evidently somewhere between '72 and '78 the rear brake caliper mounting surface on the frame was changed.

sailorbenjamin

Um, yeah, some Sports have a flat part there. I think it was a late 70s sort of thing but what do I know? You can put this caliper on yours the way it is. It won't hurt anything, or one of us (maybe me?) will have a flat part for you. I'll check tonight.

photogravity

Dane, it will go on as it is because there is a flat part too on that washer thingy. Try it and see, then if it doesn't work I'm sure someone here should be able to scare up the part you're looking for.

silvercreek

I see it has a very narrow flat. I mounted the caliper and its shorter about 1/4" having enough threads to tighten the nut. It looks like I'm going to have to fine another rear caliper with a longer bolt or grind the round boss off of the small cross bar.

sailorbenjamin

Can you skip the curved spacer and just put the spring up against the mounting pad on the brake bridge. or is the curved spacer slotted to accept the spring?
I'd grind the spacer before I ground the frame.
What about some washers and cut a notch in the first washer for the spring?
Sorry, I haven't had time to go digging in the basement yet and just spouting ideas.

silvercreek

The curved spacer is slotted to accept the spring. If I could find a knurled spacer with a slot in it like the front brake caliper has I would be ok I think.

I bet that boss was added because tightening it over a period of time seems like it could collapse the tube.

I hate jury rigging anything if I can possibly find the correct part. No luck so far on the internet.

Bianchigirll 

I think there is a part missing. I never worked on 3 speeds much but I think there is a thick spacer/ spring housing thingy that belongs on the bole before you mount it to the bike.


PS can you post a different pic? Like looking down from the top maybe? I just hate when I can't pic something up and look at it.

silvercreek

Like this?

Bianchigirll 

YES not the brake I was thinking of. amazing how a pic (like the first one) looks one way then all the sudden it looks totally different after seeing it from a different angle.

it should fit just fine

silvercreek

As I mentioned in post #6 it's about 1/4" short of having enough threads to tighten the nut.

photogravity

From looking at the picture where you can see the top of the caliper, I think I'd grind the washers. There's got to be pretty close to that much there. Either that or see if you can locate another bolt that will be long enough to accommodate everything. What is the length of the bolt?

David Newton

gravity has it.
1.Grind the "inner spacer" thinner.
2. Grind the "curved recess" side of the "spring carrier" flat.

sailorbenjamin

This is the part, right? I don't know if it's thin enough to get you your 1/4" (it's 5/16" thick) or if I can get it off (it might actually be cast as one piece with the bolt, but then maybe it's just frozen on with rust).
For a longer bolt, you can take one from the front fork, if it's got enough thread.

silvercreek

The bolt is 42mm long. I will need to find a bolt that's at least 48-50mm long or as a couple of you have recommended, grind the spacer.

You spacer looks more than 5/16" thick but yes, that is the spacer I'm working with. Thanks but I think a longer bolt will do the trick.

Bianchigirll 

you can't put a think spacer between either the caliper and frame or the nut and frame? as rule I generally use atleast one 'gripper' washer like this between the frame and caliper.





You know I kept looking at that first pic and the concave portion just didn't look right to me. I kept thinking it was either convex or had some sort of raised portion sticking out like a key or something. then as soon as I saw the second pic I could see it was concave. weird eh?

silvercreek

It does have the concave portion but your right, there is part of it that had what looks like a key and goes into something that prevents it from turning. The serrated washer you suggested would work fine if the bolt was long enough.

If I could only find the same spacer for my particular frame application.

rhm

I think you should not grind anything. Wait and see what people like Ben and myself find in our parts bins. I would look for you right now, but I don't have internet at home which means I do internet at the office or the library (now at the library) and I don't carry my parts bins around with me. But I'm pretty sure someone will have something for you.

The brake you showed, with the concavity in the washer, allows it to take the "correct" position on the frame and stay there. You cannot adjust it to the right or the left, which is great if the "correct" position is actually correct, and terrible if it proves less than perfect. If you do decide to grind something, I guess the best thing to do would be to file the frame to fit the concavity on the washer; that should give you a little extra thread. But like I said... don't go there. Wait.

silvercreek

I've always been a bit restless when it comes to getting most things done. I hate it when things don't go well at first but I have learned that patience is a real virtue most of the time.

Thanks for the encouragement.