PSA: Stronglight 3-pin 116 bcd chainrings
#1
vintage motor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tepic, Nayarit, Mexico
Posts: 1,595
Bikes: 48 Automoto, 49 Stallard, 50 Rotrax, 62 Jack Taylor, 67 Atala, 68 Lejeune, 72-74-75 Motobecanes, 73 RIH, 71 Zieleman, 74 Raleigh, 78 Windsor, 83 Messina (Villata), 84 Brazzo (Losa), 85 Davidson, 90 Diamondback, 92 Kestrel
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times
in
79 Posts
PSA: Stronglight 3-pin 116 bcd chainrings
Somebody is offering NOS Stronglight 3-pin 116mm bcd 38-tooth chainrings on Ebay for $20 shipped. These will fit many vintage cranks, I bought mine for a TA Professional. These are great cranks but it is really hard to find chainrings for them that are smaller than 42t. I have not yet received it and am not sure if the holes are the correct size, but that's something I can work out.
Likes For kroozer:
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
Just bought one.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,267
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3812 Post(s)
Liked 3,341 Times
in
2,180 Posts
-----
thanks for this great tip!
assume they would be TS
are they offering both regular & bis or just regular?
-----
thanks for this great tip!
assume they would be TS
are they offering both regular & bis or just regular?
-----
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
I took a flyer one one, but I’m guessing that those holes will need to be modified if used for a TA 3-pin crankarm. They look like they were designed for Stronglight 116 bcd cottered steel arms.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275603608415
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275603608415
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Posts: 20,435
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones
Mentioned: 178 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5888 Post(s)
Liked 3,471 Times
in
2,079 Posts
I took a flyer one one, but I’m guessing that those holes will need to be modified if used for a TA 3-pin crankarm. They look like they were designed for Stronglight 116 bcd cottered steel arms.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275603608415
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275603608415
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
From the image, bores need to be enlarged and if one had access to a mill, a counterbore added, verify you have 2mm gap to the chainstay to avoid that need.
‘there might be a need to file the ring to clear the TA pro lands.
‘there might be a need to file the ring to clear the TA pro lands.
#7
ambulatory senior
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Peoria Il
Posts: 5,998
Bikes: Austro Daimler modified by Gugie! Raleigh Professional and lots of other bikes.
Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1955 Post(s)
Liked 3,661 Times
in
1,679 Posts
Do you guys think these are aluminum?
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,820
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,328 Times
in
784 Posts
Thanks, got a pair.
I have a similar 36 tooth, just went and checked, the holes are about 7.25mm dia and the TA arms just fit nice and snug.
For this - and any other inner ring - don't bother to counterbore, just use a longer sleeve.
I have a similar 36 tooth, just went and checked, the holes are about 7.25mm dia and the TA arms just fit nice and snug.
For this - and any other inner ring - don't bother to counterbore, just use a longer sleeve.
Likes For oneclick:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
As others have pointed out, different sized chainring bolts. The TA 3-pin also uses bolts unique to that chainset; different size from anything else I’ve seen. The Stronglight steel cottered (and its Nervar variant) don’t use a bolt and sleeve system, but just a bolt as the crankarms are threaded. That’s what these rings are intended for, I’d guess.
Likes For nlerner:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,820
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,328 Times
in
784 Posts
As others have pointed out, different sized chainring bolts. The TA 3-pin also uses bolts unique to that chainset; different size from anything else I’ve seen. The Stronglight steel cottered (and its Nervar variant) don’t use a bolt and sleeve system, but just a bolt as the crankarms are threaded. That’s what these rings are intended for, I’d guess.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
#12
aged to perfection
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: PacNW
Posts: 1,814
Bikes: Dinucci Allez 2.0, Richard Sachs, Alex Singer, Serotta, Masi GC, Raleigh Pro Mk.1, Hetchins, etc
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 837 Post(s)
Liked 1,258 Times
in
663 Posts
timebehindbars is a good ebay seller
/markp
/markp
Likes For mpetry912:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
My ring arrived today, prompt shipping from PA to MA:
As I guessed, those small holes don’t quite line up with any of the 116bcd cranksets I have around. Here it is on a Stronglight 3-pin of some sort:
You can see the holes on the crankarm have a larger diameter than the holes on the ring:
Here it is next to a 42t ring for a TA 3-pin crank arm; again holes are smaller:
I also tried it with a steel cottered Stronglight arm, which uses threaded crank bolts through the ring and into the arm. The problem here is that the arm has a raised ridge around each hole. Mind the gap!
So to be useful, I’ll need to enlarge the holes on this ring. Might have to finally figure out how to use the drill press I traded a vacuum cleaner for.
As I guessed, those small holes don’t quite line up with any of the 116bcd cranksets I have around. Here it is on a Stronglight 3-pin of some sort:
You can see the holes on the crankarm have a larger diameter than the holes on the ring:
Here it is next to a 42t ring for a TA 3-pin crank arm; again holes are smaller:
I also tried it with a steel cottered Stronglight arm, which uses threaded crank bolts through the ring and into the arm. The problem here is that the arm has a raised ridge around each hole. Mind the gap!
So to be useful, I’ll need to enlarge the holes on this ring. Might have to finally figure out how to use the drill press I traded a vacuum cleaner for.
Likes For nlerner:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,267
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3812 Post(s)
Liked 3,341 Times
in
2,180 Posts
-----
thank you for this information
the chainset model in your image is Verot's TS which stands for Touring Sport
IIRC it launched in 1974
note how in this parts illustration the chainwheel you received appears to match the part number 252 in the drawing
-----
thank you for this information
the chainset model in your image is Verot's TS which stands for Touring Sport
IIRC it launched in 1974
note how in this parts illustration the chainwheel you received appears to match the part number 252 in the drawing
-----
Last edited by juvela; 07-10-23 at 03:37 PM. Reason: add image
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,267
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3812 Post(s)
Liked 3,341 Times
in
2,180 Posts
yes, there is early and late
the revision may have occurred with the big reworking of the range which took place for the 1977 model year
this is when:
model 93 was discontinued
model 99 was revised
model 104 was launched
model 105 was launched
-----
Last edited by juvela; 07-10-23 at 03:35 PM. Reason: addition
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,158
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,702 Times
in
2,612 Posts
Ah, Velobase.com abides, as always:
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...=115&AbsPos=71
Not sure how I ended up with one DS arm, but it does reasonably match a later model 99 NDS arm.
https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...=115&AbsPos=71
Not sure how I ended up with one DS arm, but it does reasonably match a later model 99 NDS arm.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Alta California
Posts: 14,267
Mentioned: 415 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3812 Post(s)
Liked 3,341 Times
in
2,180 Posts
-----
another variable to be aware of for readers -
lands thickness
up until the launch of models TS & 99 Verot's chainwheels were always tooth cut from one side of the stock only
when assembled into a chainset they were mounted with the flat sides facing each other
this means that the thickness of the lands ("spacer") is thicker on a model 57, 63 or 93 than it is on models TS, 99, 104 and 105
models TS, 99, 104 & 105 all have their chainwheel teeth cut from both sides of the stock so their lands need to be thinner to have the correct spacing between chainwheels
-----
another variable to be aware of for readers -
lands thickness
up until the launch of models TS & 99 Verot's chainwheels were always tooth cut from one side of the stock only
when assembled into a chainset they were mounted with the flat sides facing each other
this means that the thickness of the lands ("spacer") is thicker on a model 57, 63 or 93 than it is on models TS, 99, 104 and 105
models TS, 99, 104 & 105 all have their chainwheel teeth cut from both sides of the stock so their lands need to be thinner to have the correct spacing between chainwheels
-----
Likes For juvela:
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,820
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,328 Times
in
784 Posts
b) don't drill those holes 10mm, there isn't enough left after; instead just bump them to 8 and use the crank bolts reversed, as indicated.
Likes For oneclick:
#20
vintage motor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tepic, Nayarit, Mexico
Posts: 1,595
Bikes: 48 Automoto, 49 Stallard, 50 Rotrax, 62 Jack Taylor, 67 Atala, 68 Lejeune, 72-74-75 Motobecanes, 73 RIH, 71 Zieleman, 74 Raleigh, 78 Windsor, 83 Messina (Villata), 84 Brazzo (Losa), 85 Davidson, 90 Diamondback, 92 Kestrel
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 164 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 102 Times
in
79 Posts
I just received my chainring and promptly lined it up and drilled and filed the holes to match the TA cranks. I think there is still plenty of metal around the holes, but we'll see.
#21
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Ontario
Posts: 148
Bikes: Road: 1972 Raleigh Competition,1989 Marinoni, 1990 Limongi. MTN: 1990 GT Team Avalanche, 1991 Rocky Mountain Blizzard, GT Team RTS , Rocky Mountain MSL 50 Element, CCM fat bike
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Liked 81 Times
in
50 Posts
Raleigh Competition with 38T chainring.
Th
Chain on 52 and 28 in the rear.
Chain on 38 in the front and 14 on the freewheel.
The next cog up had better tension. Pretty good for that little Jubilee derailleur.
Chain on 52 and 28 in the rear.
Chain on 38 in the front and 14 on the freewheel.
The next cog up had better tension. Pretty good for that little Jubilee derailleur.
Last edited by Paul Waque; 08-08-23 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Incomplete