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  1. #1
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Thoughts on removing Older Regina Freewheel.

    I'm looking for some help ideas on how to remove an older regina freewheel that takes a odd older regina two prong the a suntour or schwinn just wont work which I have they are just a little smaller than the Regina. I don't have the old type regina plus its notches look a little buggered that way when I got it. I don't really care about being a little destructive I just need it off because the wheel would be perfect for a SS build I'm trying too do build on the cheap. Do I take it to a shop which may look at me like a martian taking in a junky wheel and just wanting it removed, do I just look for a different wheel, or is there some way to get this freewheel off? Any help or suggestions would be helpful at this point. Also heres a pic of the freewheel.


  2. #2
    Never Nude guygadois's Avatar
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    Any good shop should have a tool and take it off in a minute flat.
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    Senior Member catonec's Avatar
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    spanner wrench
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  4. #4
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Well I guess I will try the shop method?

  5. #5
    people's champ marley mission's Avatar
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    if its a shop you frequent they probably wont even charge ya for the removal - when you say your 2 prong remover u have wont work - what do you mean? what happens when u tried it?
    Kleins, Kleins...everywhere there's Kleins

  6. #6
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    The classic Sutour is actually just a little smaller diamater width wise plus the prongs are a bit wider.

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    people's champ marley mission's Avatar
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    you are talking about the FR-2

    i know there are a crap load of FW removers - i kinda got into collecting them for awhile and have around 20 - so i rarely come across one i cant remove - but it sounds like for you hitting the shop will probably take care of the issue
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  8. #8
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    I have a numbers 2 though 5 the closest is the 2 which a lot of material says should work on a older regina or atom but it just isn't the right size it seems the right tool should be slightly bigger in both diameter and prong size.

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    That freewheel looks like the edges where the proper tool fits have been buggered up already. It will be tough to remove. May be easier to disassemble the freewheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner2012 View Post
    That freewheel looks like the edges where the proper tool fits have been buggered up already. It will be tough to remove. May be easier to disassemble the freewheel.
    Go to a shop with a Campagnolo tool kit. There is a Regina specific spanner with good tolerances and will probably have the best chance of removal and the ability to reuse the freewheel. Regina freewheels have value. More value if they are G.S. Corsa identified on the lock ring.

  11. #11
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info the freewheel is a 80 or so Corsa based on markings if that helps any. It looks like it should come off and be usable with the correct Regina tool.

  12. #12
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Is that a solid axle?
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    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by catonec View Post
    spanner wrench

    How would you do that?
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  14. #14
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    Is that a solid axle?
    Yes it is but just one a put on there to try a couple of tools the wheel didn't have one another reason I need to get the freewheel off to rebuild the hub.

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    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guygadois View Post
    Any good shop should have a tool and take it off in a minute flat.
    A lot of "good" shops no longer have a Regina freewheel tool... we get quite a few calls from them asking if they can send people by to have these removed and the same is often true for the Maillard 28mm remover tool.

    If the notches are damaged it will make removal just that much more difficult and you will want the correct tool to ensure the best fit, a Suntour 2 prong tool can be modified to fit the smaller notches and the tool should be secured to the freewheel with a washer and axle nut to prevent slippage.

    Some of these take more than a minute... removing a seized freewheel with a splined remover is far easier than doing it on the older 2 and 4 notch designs which are more prone to damage.

  16. #16
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by repechage View Post
    Go to a shop with a Campagnolo tool kit. There is a Regina specific spanner with good tolerances and will probably have the best chance of removal and the ability to reuse the freewheel. Regina freewheels have value. More value if they are G.S. Corsa identified on the lock ring.
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    Dane silvercreek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
    I'm looking for some help ideas on how to remove an older regina freewheel that takes a odd older regina two prong the a suntour or schwinn just wont work which I have they are just a little smaller than the Regina. I don't have the old type regina plus its notches look a little buggered that way when I got it. I don't really care about being a little destructive I just need it off because the wheel would be perfect for a SS build I'm trying too do build on the cheap. Do I take it to a shop which may look at me like a martian taking in a junky wheel and just wanting it removed, do I just look for a different wheel, or is there some way to get this freewheel off? Any help or suggestions would be helpful at this point. Also heres a pic of the freewheel.
    If you're not planning to re-use the Regina freewheel I'll buy it from you. Is it a 5 speed?
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  18. #18
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    I've used modified Suntour tools on these, since such a small freewheel on a bike with a 42t small ring usually isn't very tight.

    I am often surprised that my tools don't do damage or slip, but they usually don't.

    I have a few tweaked (modified) removers by now, but still need one for a Campag 2-prong alloy FW.
    There are a lot of different freewheels, gad!

    Sometimes I'll "dress" the freewheel and tool prongs with a Dremel to improve the grab if the freewheel is very tight or the tool fits poorly.
    Again, the smaller freewheels usually require much less force to remove.

    I always sucure the tool TIGHTLY before torqueing, but must loosen promptly to continue turning as the freewheel backs off.
    A longer wrench, like 18" or more, puts less sideways force on the tool for a given torque, which helps it stay centered, and a vice is even better.
    I find the job is easier with an inflated tire mounted, for grip against the ground or for hand-gripping.
    Last edited by dddd; 04-29-12 at 12:25 AM.

  19. #19
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    Forget it! Based on what I see, and knowing a bit about that stupid two prong freewheel tool, you will not succeed using it but you just might manage to break the tool. The freewheel prong fits, in the freewheel, are screwed.

    Take the freewheel apart, using the two little holes for torque purchase. Once the freewheel is disassemble, use a pipe wrench to remove the freewheel hub. Toss the old freewheel or put it away somewhere. Install a different freewheel but do not use a two prong fit unit.

    I have been dealing with this problem for years. I always pitch the two prong freewheel, in favor of something more sensible, like a four prong(still not the best) or a splined tool(very good).
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by dddd View Post
    I've used modified Suntour tools on these, since such a small freewheel on a bike with a 42t small ring usually isn't very tight.

    I am often surprised that my tools don't do damage or slip, but they usually don't.

    I have a few tweaked (modified) removers by now, but still need one for a Campag 2-prong alloy FW.
    There are a lot of different freewheels, gad!

    Sometimes I'll "dress" the freewheel and tool prongs with a Dremel to improve the grab if the freewheel is very tight or the tool fits poorly.
    Again, the smaller freewheels usually require much less force to remove.

    I always sucure the tool TIGHTLY before torqueing, but must loosen promptly to continue turning as the freewheel backs off.
    A longer wrench, like 18" or more, puts less sideways force on the tool for a given torque, which helps it stay centered, and a vice is even better.
    I find the job is easier with an inflated tire mounted, for grip against the ground or for hand-gripping.
    Please do not use anything other than the couple of correctly designed helical remover tools that properly fit those Campagnolo freewheels. Bike Tools Etc. sells one, iirc, plus the Campagnolo brand one. ANY incorrect tool will ruin the (now very valuable) freewheel! Used Campagnolo freewheels in good (useable) condition are now selling for around $200 on eBarf....

  21. #21
    Senior Member zukahn1's Avatar
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    Well as a follow up I got the correct tool from a fellow BF member for a decent price and got the freewheel off. Yet Because of the previous damage too the prongs and the fact it was stuck on tight the prongs where damaged little more but it came off. Thanks for all the help.

  22. #22
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    I just had the same problem. Broke my Suntour remover trying to use that. Couldn't find the correct tool (VR-188) anywhere. Took it to the very good LBS, where the mechanic ground two of the prongs off a four prong tool to make a tool that would fit, got the freewheel off, and sold me the ground off tool for $10.

  23. #23
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    That's good backyard engineering at work, and now you've got a tool for it.

    I should mention from before that the Campag aluminum freewheel I am trying to remove has normal 2-prong (albeit recessed) bosses just like many others, not any kind of helical engagement as implieded above by 753Proguy.
    I am hoping to grind down the OD of a Suntour 2-prong tool's prongs to fit, if there is still enoungh metal left after grinding. I'll measure twice first, but I don't have the wheel/freewheel here right now.

  24. #24
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    On a related note, my problem had been trying to remove the later Regina FWs with the splines instead of notches. Most QR axle end nuts are too big to let in the splined tool that you can get for Park. DD noted to me recently that there might be some removers available that will have thinner walls on it to let in the end nuts, but as it is the Park version of the remover has very thin walls already and it still does not go over most QR axle endd nuts. Will the only solution be to grind down the end nuts a bit to let in the tool, or can I buy smaller diameter end nuts to replace the ones I ahve on my hubs on the drive side rear wheels.

    Chombi

  25. #25
    Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race dddd's Avatar
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    I am used to seeing the Regina freewheels mounted on Campag hubs, which have round locknuts with 2 flats cut in, instead of a hex nut that will get in the way.
    The Thin tool will clear the Campag axle bits no problemo, but not the hex nuts.
    I think you could trim the points of the nut though for convenience with future freewheel swaps.
    Great idea actually, as long as the wrench size isn't so large so as to have to round the nut too much.

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