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  1. #1
    Senior Member timber_cruiser's Avatar
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    new paint for no name frame

    In an earlier post I shared some progress pictures of my latest project frame. Today was a good day to paint in the back yard, so I finished the final coat of top coat. I used an automotive paint.

    Before:



    after sand blast:



    today's final coat:








    Now the hard part - to have enough common sense and patience to let the paint harden before I start to put it together. I am going to use spare parts I have on hand, mostly Campagnolo NR components. The frame looks like it is an early 70's vintage. It has Columbus tubing, Campagnolo drop outs and bottom bracket braze ons. The rear wheel spacing is 120 mm.

  2. #2
    Senior Member JAG410's Avatar
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    Looks nice! While you wait, polish up all the parts you're gonna hang on it!

  3. #3
    I like beans eippo1's Avatar
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    Nice paint job. make sure you take pics of that in the sun. Much better for sparkles. What are you throwing on there for wheels?
    You got it buddy: the large print giveth, and the small print taketh away

    2009 Dean El Diente Superlite
    2011 Bianchi Zurigo CX
    2005 Specialized Sworks E5 "Calamity"
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    2001 Della Santa

  4. #4
    Senior Member timber_cruiser's Avatar
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    Thanks eippo1, I have a set of Ambrosio Montreal tubular rims and Campagnolo record hubs. The rear wheel has a five speed 14 - 26 Suntour perfect freewheel since it is set up for 120 mm.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Lightfoot21's Avatar
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    Nice job. How did you prep the frame for the first coat...chemicals, hand sanding, sand blasting???

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    What brand paint did you use and how do you feel about the quality of the job? I'm on the fence about whether to paint my frame myself or send it out. Was this a rattle can paint or do you have a spray gun?

  7. #7
    Senior Member timber_cruiser's Avatar
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    Lightfoot21, I started out with a sand blast using red garnett sand. I have an air compressor and a small hobby sand blaster kit. It provides a good base for paint adhesion without damaging the metal. I cleaned with solvent and applied a self etching primer. I used a primer on top of that to fill in any small holes etc. A light sanding with 600 grit preped for final coats.

    lotekmod, I used an automotive paint and a HVLP spray gun. You can get one of these for a resonable cost through the internet or local hardware store. I bought a Porter Cable PHS1 gravity feed model for about $70. It has a lot of adjustments that allow you to apply paint in the right amount to the tight small spots on a bike frame. It took some practice and a few mistakes to learn how to use correctly.

    Overall, you will spend about the same amount of money or maybe less if you send your frame off to get painted by a pro. But, part of the fun of doing it yourself is acquiring new tools (toys) in the process. The spray setup I have now will also work with my woodworking projects.

    Rattle can paint is by far cheaper, and I have done a few frames that way also. I think you get a better quality and more durable paint if you use automotive grade paint.

  8. #8
    Senior Member timber_cruiser's Avatar
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    I just finished putting everything together. The total weight for the bike as shown is 19.5 lbs. Went for a short ride last night, and am pleased with how it turned out so far. I forgot how nice the sound of tubular tires is with a steel frame! Planning to ride a longer trek this weekend.










  9. #9
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    It's... just... so.... beautiful. Wonderful choice in color! I'm considering repainting an old, crappy, no-name frame myself, and this gives me a whole lot of hope/motivation.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    Could you be more specific about the paint you used, please? "Automotive Paint" doesn't tell us much.

  11. #11
    Senior Member timber_cruiser's Avatar
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    Grand Bois, I used a Nason Fast Dry paint. The spec sheet for this paint also describes this as a two component acrylic enamel topcoat paint. I bought this at a local automotive paint store. They were very helpful in providing advice and options for paint types and colors. This is a color labeled BMW Estorial Blue. It includes a metallic flake. The paint required adding a reducer (20% by volume) when mixing for the spray gun. I used one pint which provided enough for two coats and some left over for touch up. The cost for the enamel was $17.00, another $10.00 for a quart of reducer, which I have a lot left over.

    If I were to do this again, I might consider using a three component paint, which requires adding a hardener. I think this might provide a quicker cure and harder finish, but would be a bit more expensive.

  12. #12
    Senior Member velomateo's Avatar
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    That turned out beautiful. It looks very well thought out, and properly set up. I love the old 3ttt stem too.

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