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  1. #1
    Senior Member TNDave's Avatar
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    Traded the Sterling for this Nishiki - what model/type is it?

    I spent the last few days getting the Sterling cleaned up and dialed in, but it was just a bit too small to be a regular rider. It ended up being a free bike for me after only paying $10 for it at a garage sale and then selling the Sachs-Huret Odometer to chainring (enjoy!). Anyway, there is a local guy on CL here that is always listing bikes, and he has had this Niskiki on there for a few weeks. I know he is always looking for newer better bikes to sell so I called him and he was interested, and we ended up trading bikes tonight.

    The Nishiki no stickers or decals of any kind other than the cool Nishiki headbadge. The serial number is KJ06558 which I think (from the Nishiki S/N thread) that this is a US made bike from 1980.

    I particularly love the lugs and the small bit of yellow/brown highligt around the edges. Definitely going to replace the seat, bar tape, and cable housings with more attractive/complementary colors. Also needs new tires and brake pads but after that it is just cleaning, adjusting, and riding!

    DSC_0531 (1024x665).jpgDSC_0532 (1024x680).jpgDSC_0533 (614x1024).jpgDSC_0534 (680x1024).jpgDSC_0537 (631x1024).jpgDSC_0539 (680x1024).jpgIMG00774-20120502-1941.jpg

    Anyone have any idea what type it is? Or any way to find out? I have not started pulling stuff off of it yet, just got it home and straight to pics for Bikeforums C&V! When I start breaking it down I will look up component numbers on the vintage Trek database.

    It is a 25" frame, Suntour VX derailers, Araya 27-1 1/4 alloy wheels, Sunshine Cyro Master hubs, Sakae Road Champion Bar, Suntour stem shifters (friction, non indexed), Sugino chainring and Sugion 170mm cranks.

    Also, the front brake rubs and I can't turn the barrel adjuster on the brake hood - is that how these brakes adjust? Does that mean it may be rusted or stuck? Or just already adjusted to it's max?

    Any info or help is greatly appreciated! I'm REALLY looking forward to cleaning this up and turning it into one of my rides!
    "The problem with Internet Quotes is that they are impossible to verify" - Abraham Lincoln

  2. #2
    Senior Member TNDave's Avatar
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    After some searching and reading, I am leaning toward it being a 1980 Olympic 12 due to the color, lugs, and headbadge????
    "The problem with Internet Quotes is that they are impossible to verify" - Abraham Lincoln

  3. #3
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    KJ is USA market, not USA built. Likely built in Taiwan. I think an Olympic is a good guess.

    Brakes should be adjusted by adjusting the cable, rather than a lever adjustment. A new set of cables would be a good investment anyway (they look old in those pics, and new cables are pretty cheap). Check the housings too, as back then, lined housings were rare, so the housings probably have internal rust.
    Last edited by wrk101; 05-02-12 at 07:56 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member auchencrow's Avatar
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    That's quite an attractive bike, TNDave.
    I would go further and invest in a good pair of DT shifters (or Barcons if you prefer) since you'll be running new housing anyway, and buzz the vestigial pivots for the turkey wings and add some Cane Creek hoods. It will look like a million bucks!

    PS - Thrifty Bill is correct (as usual) - Don't attempt to adjust those brakes at the levers.
    Instead, loosen the cable at the caliper and back the adjusters off half-way through their range.
    Then set the brakes at the cable end, with the shoes held net against the rims with a third hand tool (or help from a friend).
    Then loosen the caliper mounting nut.
    Secure the cable, then the caliper mounting nut. One squeeze of the lever will generally effect more than enough gap between the rim and the shoes, given the stretch in the new cable - which you can then adjust as-required at the lever.
    - Auchen

  5. #5
    Senior Member randyjawa's Avatar
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    I have owned a few Nishiki bicycles, over the years. And one thing I know, they tend to change bikes, but keep the same name, from time to time.

    The OP's bike looks a lot like an International, to me. Understand, that there were different International designs. Anyway, here is the one that seems most similar...

    NishikiInterBlueFullRight.jpg NishikiInterBlueDerailleurRear.jpg NishikiInterBlueCrankTQRear.jpg

    NishikiInterBlueHeadTubeTQRear.jpg NishikiInterBlueDecalTubing.jpg
    Learn how to find, restore and maintain vintage road bicycles at... MY "TEN SPEEDS"

  6. #6
    Senior Member TNDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by auchencrow View Post
    That's quite an attractive bike, TNDave.
    I would go further and invest in a good pair of DT shifters (or Barcons if you prefer) since you'll be running new housing anyway, and buzz the vestigial pivots for the turkey wings and add some Cane Creek hoods. It will look like a million bucks!

    PS - Thrifty Bill is correct (as usual) - Don't attempt to adjust those brakes at the levers.
    Instead, loosen the cable at the caliper and back the adjusters off half-way through their range.
    Then set the brakes at the cable end, with the shoes held net against the rims with a third hand tool (or help from a friend).
    Then loosen the caliper mounting nut.
    Secure the cable, then the caliper mounting nut. One squeeze of the lever will generally effect more than enough gap between the rim and the shoes, given the stretch in the new cable - which you can then adjust as-required at the lever.

    Thanks Auchen! I'm really looking forward to getting it fixed up to ride and enjoy!

    Couple more questions for you (I am still pretty new to the C&V scene) - those pivots are simply that, no internal neccessity to keep them and they can be safely removed? or leave them and just cut them off level?

    I have never worked on centerpull brakes, and when I do the cable adjustment, the barrel adjusters at the levers should turn, correct? Neither brake barrel adjuster on this bike will turn - I'm guessing they are either jammed or rusted up internally?
    "The problem with Internet Quotes is that they are impossible to verify" - Abraham Lincoln

  7. #7
    Senior Member TNDave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
    I have owned a few Nishiki bicycles, over the years. And one thing I know, they tend to change bikes, but keep the same name, from time to time.

    The OP's bike looks a lot like an International, to me. Understand, that there were different International designs.
    Thanks Randy - and by the way I JUST finished up some reading on your site! Fantastic site, great information and pictures, I really enjoyed it and have it bookmarked.

    I have been going back and forth between Olympic and International all night, but the stem shifters vs. downtube, chainring, and stem mounting nuts keep taking me back to Olympic. However the lug type and highlight color look more like International.....

    Suprisingly I have not been able to find a whole lot of information on Nishiki's online. Have been looking for a 1980 catalog with specs and pictures all night and coming up totally empty....
    "The problem with Internet Quotes is that they are impossible to verify" - Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Nishiki was a marketing company, did not make bikes. So like several of the marketing companies from that era, catalogs are a bit scarce. Lots of good brands were just marketing companies: Nishiki, Lotus, Univega, Centurion, just to name a few.

    My dream bike back in 1974 was to buy a Nishiki International. But I could not afford it. I've had a half dozen Internationals from 1974 through 1977 since then.

    I typically remove the large screw from the turkey lever pivot, then use an exacto knife, cut a round hole in replacement hoods, and install the hoods. That way, if for some reason you want to reinstall turkey levers, the bike is ready.

  9. #9
    Senior Member auchencrow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
    ....
    I typically remove the large screw from the turkey lever pivot, then use an exacto knife, cut a round hole in replacement hoods, and install the hoods. That way, if for some reason you want to reinstall turkey levers, the bike is ready.
    Ready? Why would you want to reinstall TURKEY WINGS?!
    - Auchen

  10. #10
    Senior Member TNDave's Avatar
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    STILL can't decide if I think it is an Olympic 12 or an International, but lately I have been leaning toward International.

    Was finally able to start working on it today, cleaning and adjusting. After removing the rear wheel and cleaning the derailers and freewheel I saw that it has a Suntour Perfect 6-speed freewheel (that cleaned up beautifully, looks almost new!) and forged Suntour rear dropouts.

    I know that sometimes the type of dropout gives a clue as to what the bike is (forged vs. pressed), but I can't find anything online for a 1980 Nishiki to tell me if the dropouts between the Olympic and International were different.

    Any more thoughts or ideas? If I can't decide for 100% sure I think I am going to dub it an International.....
    "The problem with Internet Quotes is that they are impossible to verify" - Abraham Lincoln

  11. #11
    Senior Member rgver's Avatar
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    I have the 1980 Olympic 12 and it matches everything you have listed here, even down to freewheel and drop outs.
    DSC03465.jpg

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