I'm 100% newbie.
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm 100% newbie.
Jim from Denver area. I am starting to restore a Schwinn Twinn tandem tricycle. Am I in the right place?
thanks!!
thanks!!
#2
carpe diem
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fenton, MI
Posts: 678
Bikes: CAAD 9 , Schwinn World, Prologue, Madison , Sports Tourer ; Ironman , Opus lll , Allez , Peugeot 753, Trek 531 (2) , Assenmacher ( custom)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Welcome , lots of knowledgeable folks on this site. Good luck !
#3
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 11,006
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2198 Post(s)
Liked 4,600 Times
in
1,764 Posts
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Paoli, PA
Posts: 65
Bikes: 2012 Singular Peregrine, 1976 Motobecane Grand Record, 1987 Schwinn Circuit, 1994 Cannondale M400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
iluvnoise, I put a couple pictures up there. Have since removed the cranks and seats to start the cleanup. I friend of mine who does high end guitar and furniture restorations has offered to paint. I said, ummm, like yeah....
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Greenville, NC
Posts: 1,386
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Liked 57 Times
in
40 Posts
Some of those tricycles were driven by only one of the rear wheels; some by both. Which have you got?
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 13,317
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 659 Post(s)
Liked 595 Times
in
313 Posts
Biggest training wheels I've ever seen.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Normal, Illinois
Posts: 2,714
Bikes: Trek 600 ,1980Raleigh Competition G.S., 1986 Schwinn Passage, Facet Biotour 2000, Falcon San Remo 531,Schwinn Sierra, Sun Seeker tricycle recumbent,1985 Bianchi Squadra
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
Is that a bolt-on trike conversion? If so, and you wanted a tandem bike , sort of looks like you could unbolt and replace with a wheel . Looks to be in good shape . You might check that rear wheel system for a 3 speed hub. Also, a serial number may yield a year , and more information . There are plenty of websites that may help in this regard .
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,959
Bikes: Too many Bicycles to list
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 90 Post(s)
Liked 137 Times
in
45 Posts
Wow what a great first post, very cool bi umm trike you got there or is it a Tramdem. I think that would sell like hotcakes around here. I would go ahead and let your buddy paint it as it isn't the original paint that's on it now so you may as well get it a color you like ( or to match the grips and seats) then get some custom decals made for it.
Glenn
Glenn
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hi Brian
Well, think seriously before you take up that offer. Keep in mind that collectors will value the original paint, even if it's not in great shape. I think most people here would recommend keeping the original paint -- just wash and wax. That said, it's your bike and if you want to paint it, go for it.
Some of those tricycles were driven by only one of the rear wheels; some by both. Which have you got?
Some of those tricycles were driven by only one of the rear wheels; some by both. Which have you got?
The rear end has a three speed Sturmey Archer hub on the left side. The right rear wheel free wheels. When I got it, the shifter had been moved to the rear rider's handle bars, so if you wanted to ride it alone you could either shift but not steer or steer but not shift.
Have you seen one of these before?
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is that a bolt-on trike conversion? If so, and you wanted a tandem bike , sort of looks like you could unbolt and replace with a wheel . Looks to be in good shape . You might check that rear wheel system for a 3 speed hub. Also, a serial number may yield a year , and more information . There are plenty of websites that may help in this regard .
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: The Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 112
Bikes: 72 Motobecane GR, 88 Schwinn Circuit, 72 Schwinn SS, Cannondale Synapse 5, Raleigh Tamland 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Normal, Illinois
Posts: 2,714
Bikes: Trek 600 ,1980Raleigh Competition G.S., 1986 Schwinn Passage, Facet Biotour 2000, Falcon San Remo 531,Schwinn Sierra, Sun Seeker tricycle recumbent,1985 Bianchi Squadra
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times
in
9 Posts
#17
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 11,006
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2198 Post(s)
Liked 4,600 Times
in
1,764 Posts
#19
Senior Member
These are serious trikes.
Lot's more examples found on Google.
Lot's more examples found on Google.
__________________
Bikes on Flickr
I prefer email to private messages. You can contact me at justinhughes@me.com
Bikes on Flickr
I prefer email to private messages. You can contact me at justinhughes@me.com
#20
Get off my lawn!
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Posts: 6,031
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 93 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 98 Times
in
48 Posts
Holdsworth ( it think) even made a Triike Racing conversion axle. One was up on eBay a year or so ago. If I remember B.girl was looking at it too. Maybe some links or photo's are still floating around. I can't remember what the thread title was.
#21
Thrifty Bill
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,525
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
Try using some acetone (fingernail polish remover) to remove the rattlecan paint. I have successfully used acetone multiple times to remove rattlecan. Just start in an obscure area, start small, and see how it goes.
#22
Hogosha Sekai
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: STS
Posts: 6,669
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 21 Times
in
15 Posts
Hi Jim welcome aboard! Wow and I'm loving the trikes with full sized wheels.
#23
Senior Member
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Well, it seems that somebody recognized the bike and here's an update.
(BTW, I love those racing trikes.)
Apparently it is a 1964 or thereabouts Schwinn Twinn. He said this model was made specifically for vacation resorts. It was a Schwinn Twinn tandem bike and the rear assembly was probably added at the factory and the bikes were sold to places that rented them to tourists such as Disneyland. He claims to have seen several before and commented that although the bike is not unique, it is certainly rare and definitely cools.
I dismantled the chains and cranks. The chrome is pitted on one crank and also on the part (stem?) that holds the front handlebars.
The bearings on both cranks were in great shape. I put them through a parts washer, smeared on a little synthetic grease and set them aside.
My friend gave me a Schwinn emblem for the front tube (head tube?). Lo and behold the rivet holes line up so I am starting to believe it is a Schwinn.
We are now thinking that the front wheel is a replacement because the brake pads don't line up with it very well and the front brake assembly is Schwinn.
The rear rims are sadly, I think, beyond repair. There is heavy rust inside and out. This is where I have to make a decision as to whether to proceed with a museum restoration or just make it functional again. I chose the latter because I can keep my eyes out for chrome rims down the road.
Another thing, the rims are 28 spokes and 24" inches which is apparently a more difficult size to find these days, especially in chrome. We need to use this size because that's how many spokes are on the 3 spd rear end hub so unless we change that hub out, we need 28 spoke rims at least on the drive side. We could mix and match left to right because only one wheel is driven, but I decided to make left and right the same.
The rear basket / gear frame part had some warpage in the tubing. We tapped this out with a urethane mallet.
Also, the rear sprocket housing that connects the pedal chains to the rear axle is surprisingly weak considering how much torque it has to deal with. So, I may lengthen the axle internally so that the force from the riders is dispersed to both sides of the vehicle instead of just one. As it sits right now, only one wheel is driven and all the force is being absorbed by a shaft that runs only halfway across the back of the bike.
We found one weird thing. The sprocket on the rear axle is attached to the axle with both a roll pin and a set screw. No idea why. It seems like the set screw may have been added to counteract wobble in the roll pin or vice versa. Which is why we are looking at putting an axle that spans the entire rear of the bike.
Okay, that's where we are at right now.
Sadly, the paint was roached, so I am stripping it all off.
Apparently it is a 1964 or thereabouts Schwinn Twinn. He said this model was made specifically for vacation resorts. It was a Schwinn Twinn tandem bike and the rear assembly was probably added at the factory and the bikes were sold to places that rented them to tourists such as Disneyland. He claims to have seen several before and commented that although the bike is not unique, it is certainly rare and definitely cools.
I dismantled the chains and cranks. The chrome is pitted on one crank and also on the part (stem?) that holds the front handlebars.
The bearings on both cranks were in great shape. I put them through a parts washer, smeared on a little synthetic grease and set them aside.
My friend gave me a Schwinn emblem for the front tube (head tube?). Lo and behold the rivet holes line up so I am starting to believe it is a Schwinn.
We are now thinking that the front wheel is a replacement because the brake pads don't line up with it very well and the front brake assembly is Schwinn.
The rear rims are sadly, I think, beyond repair. There is heavy rust inside and out. This is where I have to make a decision as to whether to proceed with a museum restoration or just make it functional again. I chose the latter because I can keep my eyes out for chrome rims down the road.
Another thing, the rims are 28 spokes and 24" inches which is apparently a more difficult size to find these days, especially in chrome. We need to use this size because that's how many spokes are on the 3 spd rear end hub so unless we change that hub out, we need 28 spoke rims at least on the drive side. We could mix and match left to right because only one wheel is driven, but I decided to make left and right the same.
The rear basket / gear frame part had some warpage in the tubing. We tapped this out with a urethane mallet.
Also, the rear sprocket housing that connects the pedal chains to the rear axle is surprisingly weak considering how much torque it has to deal with. So, I may lengthen the axle internally so that the force from the riders is dispersed to both sides of the vehicle instead of just one. As it sits right now, only one wheel is driven and all the force is being absorbed by a shaft that runs only halfway across the back of the bike.
We found one weird thing. The sprocket on the rear axle is attached to the axle with both a roll pin and a set screw. No idea why. It seems like the set screw may have been added to counteract wobble in the roll pin or vice versa. Which is why we are looking at putting an axle that spans the entire rear of the bike.
Okay, that's where we are at right now.
Sadly, the paint was roached, so I am stripping it all off.