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Hub/Spacing Recommendations for Early 80's Schwinn MTB

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Hub/Spacing Recommendations for Early 80's Schwinn MTB

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Old 06-19-12, 07:57 PM
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Hub/Spacing Recommendations for Early 80's Schwinn MTB

I was given a 1984 Schwinn Mesa Runner and plan to build it up as a bad weather commuter and hopefully trailer duty one day. It will be built and ridden as is but will eventually try dirt drops and bar end shifters. A paint job is will be in order as well.

I haven't measured the hub spacing since it's stored in an attic at the moment, but am convinced it is 120mm since it a 5 speed according to Mombat. The original hubs are steel and the plating seems to be flaking off, don't think they're salvageable aesthetically.

Going with worst case, they're going to replaced (steel rims need replacing too). Should I coldset the frame to 126mm and use a threaded freewheel or try spacing it at 130mm? If there are vintage mountain bike hubs spaced at 120mm I'll consider that too.

Another idea...thinking of adding canti mounts before painting and seat stay braze-ons for a rack

Thoughts?

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Old 06-19-12, 08:14 PM
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My 1988 Schwinn takes 130mm (was originally a 6-speed, bought as a 7-speed freewheel, now 8-speed cassette).
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Old 06-19-12, 08:21 PM
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Yeah I have an 1987 Schwinn Sierra that is 6 speed and 130mm. With the 5 speed I was going off of Sheldon's site regarding the spacing
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Old 06-19-12, 08:34 PM
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spread it all the way to 132.5 or 135 if you want to use modern wheels. i spread an 83 stumpjumper to 135. the only "catch" is that i am running it with a 7 speed cassette and a 4.5mm spacer on the outside. some bikes will not allow you to use 8 or 9 speeds because the outer cogs are so close to the chainstay.
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Old 06-19-12, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by illwafer
spread it all the way to 132.5 or 135 if you want to use modern wheels. i spread an 83 stumpjumper to 135. the only "catch" is that i am running it with a 7 speed cassette and a 4.5mm spacer on the outside. some bikes will not allow you to use 8 or 9 speeds because the outer cogs are so close to the chainstay.
Ok, that's reassuring...wasn't sure how much stress would be caused going from 120 to 135. Where does the bending occur in the seat/chain stays? Is the brake bridge or any other junction seeing additional stress?
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Old 06-19-12, 08:50 PM
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Maybe that bike's not worth all the investment...cantis, brakes, wheels, paint, bar cons, spreading, time etc. You can buy some sweet arse mtbs for not a lot of money. To be fair, I'm not familiar with that model but it seems entry level from the pics.

Ride it as is or just upgrade to alloy rims if you get them cheap.
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Old 06-19-12, 11:31 PM
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I like where this is going but I, too, am concerned with the quality of your canvas.
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Old 06-20-12, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by clubman
Maybe that bike's not worth all the investment...cantis, brakes, wheels, paint, bar cons, spreading, time etc. You can buy some sweet arse mtbs for not a lot of money. To be fair, I'm not familiar with that model but it seems entry level from the pics.

Ride it as is or just upgrade to alloy rims if you get them cheap.
Originally Posted by realestvin7
I like where this is going but I, too, am concerned with the quality of your canvas.
You guys are totally right. I'll search for a better platform
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Old 06-20-12, 10:02 AM
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Worthy platform.




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Old 06-20-12, 01:43 PM
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Me being me, I'd probably just respace it to 126mm and use 7-speed cassette hubs. That's as "modern" as I need.
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Old 06-20-12, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
Me being me, I'd probably just respace it to 126mm and use 7-speed cassette hubs. That's as "modern" as I need.
Realize MTB spacing tends to be wider. Now if you build a wheel, sure, a 7 speed cassette road hub will get you there. I am considering that on my 1988 Univega (did not come with wheels). The MTB wheels I have laying around are all 135mm spacing, and that Univega is just 126mm. Squeezing in 130? No problem. Squeezing in 135? Not without cold set first.
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Old 06-20-12, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wrk101
Realize MTB spacing tends to be wider. Now if you build a wheel, sure, a 7 speed cassette road hub will get you there. I am considering that on my 1988 Univega (did not come with wheels). The MTB wheels I have laying around are all 135mm spacing, and that Univega is just 126mm. Squeezing in 130? No problem. Squeezing in 135? Not without cold set first.
Yeah, is that to move the hub closer to the center for strength? Guess it'll depend on how this bike will be used...

Another option would be to build it up as a single-speed/fixed-gear, in which case that 120mm spacing is perfect.
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Old 06-20-12, 05:46 PM
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some late 80s/early 90s Shimano mtb hubs can be converted from 135mm to 130mm.. they have a 5mm spacer

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...hlight=130+135
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