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  1. #2501
    Senior Member
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    Wintermute: Those bars were actually my second choice the first being WTB dirt drops but I couldn't find any of those and when I finally did they were very expensive. Those Ichigear bars were under $30.
    one half wuff

    "There is no tree so tall that a small dog can't heist on it".

  2. #2502
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    1987 Stumpjumper






  3. #2503
    WNG
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    ^Very nice Stumpjumper!
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  4. #2504
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    ^Very nice Stumpjumper!
    Agreed, it's a beauty, love the moustache bars. Would love to see a nice light weight stem on there though. Like a salsa or ritchey or something.
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  5. #2505
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    That Stumpjumper is sweet. Lovin' the chainstay u-brakes!

  6. #2506
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    ^Very nice Stumpjumper!
    +1 That's in really nice shape. Cool color scheme too - a bit understated for the '80s but still lively enough to put a grin on your face I'll bet. What bars are those?

  7. #2507
    Senior Member Chris Chicago's Avatar
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    I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
    preferably not too heavy

  8. #2508
    That guy from the Chi Chitown_Mike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Chicago View Post
    I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
    preferably not too heavy

    I am assuming you are from the northside of Chicago? If so, hello! Same here! Jeff Park/Gladstone park area.

    As for a tire, I picked up the Continental Double Fighter II tires and love them. No flats, about 600 miles so far, and they eat up the lovely road surfaces of Chicago without an issue. Great smooth tread with some more aggressive tread on the sides if you end up on a non-asphalt surface. I will definitely be purchasing another set when these wear out. I have a 26" x 1.95" tire on my conversion. I am able to maintain the same speeds I saw on my old road bike, my top speeds (sprints) haven't change much except for the gearing on the bike, and they are relatively quiet.

    However, currently not riding due to a broken hand, but I plan on riding in the snow which from what I read these are a decent all season tire. Especially since Chicago plows the streets.
    Looking forward to my winter commuting adventure.....

  9. #2509
    Get off my lawn! Velognome's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Chicago View Post
    I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
    preferably not too heavy
    Panaracer Pasela or if you have the extra coin, Compass

  10. #2510
    Senior Member Chris Chicago's Avatar
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    I cant find the paselas in all black. not sure if they exist. I have the tan walls on another bike and like them. but paid under 20 somehow. would like to find something at that price.

    nashbar/performance have good ones for even less, but 1.5in is the max. chitown mike's idea of a smooth middle aggressive sides tire is a good suggestion I hadn't considered. most I'm seeing are either heavy or pricey too.

  11. #2511
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    ^Very nice Stumpjumper!
    That is really is nicely done. Bars are a great touch too.

    Thanks for sharing. Only trouble is that bike makes me want to start another one.
    one half wuff

    "There is no tree so tall that a small dog can't heist on it".

  12. #2512
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by one half wuff View Post
    Only trouble is that bike makes me want to start another one.
    Bike addiction 101...

    1. Don't start!

    2. Give up... you're hooked and you'll never stop building as there will always be more inspiration!!!
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  13. #2513
    WNG
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    Teaser...

    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  14. #2514
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    looks like a nice steel giant you got there. ^
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  15. #2515
    Senior Member kehomer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velognome View Post
    Panaracer Pasela or if you have the extra coin, Compass
    Don't overlook the Panaracer T-Serv, all black. Same carcass as the Compass and less expensive. Runs about $40.00 each. Mine ride great.

  16. #2516
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    Fender question

    Without getting into brand recommendations, can any of you share your experiences with different radius issues stemming from the huge frame clearance on older MTBs? Like, is it better to use a fender designed for 700c wheelsets in some instances? I'm finding that may I have to do that with some of them if I want to maintain even clearance between the tire and fender all the way around. Is it mostly hit or miss, or have any of you figured out a frame clearance "cutoff" distance that determines which is better?
    1985 Nishiki Century/198? Miyata 610/19?? Omega 12/198? Univega Alpina Pro/198? Unknown MTB/1991 Koga-Miyata Randonneur Alloy/1996 GT Rage/199? DB "Frankencross"

  17. #2517
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taxi Rob View Post
    Without getting into brand recommendations, can any of you share your experiences with different radius issues stemming from the huge frame clearance on older MTBs? Like, is it better to use a fender designed for 700c wheelsets in some instances? I'm finding that may I have to do that with some of them if I want to maintain even clearance between the tire and fender all the way around. Is it mostly hit or miss, or have any of you figured out a frame clearance "cutoff" distance that determines which is better?
    I would use a spacer of some kind to bring the fender closer to the tire no matter what size you use. This bike is wearing Planet Bike 700c fenders with 26 x 1.25 tires. I spaced the front edge of the rear fender (don't remember what I used; either cork or an alloy spacer), then used the stays to pull the radius in to achieve a decent fender line. I have no idea whether other brands or materials would adapt their radius, but with these it was a snap.

  18. #2518
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    Quote Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
    I would use a spacer of some kind to bring the fender closer to the tire no matter what size you use.
    Ok, that's heading in the right direction. Since you brought it up, what's a good rule of thumb for general tire clearance, assuming I could change the radius however much I needed to? I mean, assuming I won't be 'froadin through sticky river mud, what is a good distance to maintain from the tread block? I put a set of 700 fenders onto my Alpina Pro with WTB Slick 1.5s just as a mock up, and the clearance was even, but it was a good 1-3/8" away from the tread. Would that much clearance cause issues with drag at higher speeds/in high winds? Or is that effect negligible? Or should I spend the next year and $1k trying out different combinations and post my findings in a separate thread?
    1985 Nishiki Century/198? Miyata 610/19?? Omega 12/198? Univega Alpina Pro/198? Unknown MTB/1991 Koga-Miyata Randonneur Alloy/1996 GT Rage/199? DB "Frankencross"

  19. #2519
    Senior Member fixed1313's Avatar
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    I use the correct fender size for the wheel size on all my bikes so far. The only issue I have had is a small amount of lift at the front edge of the front fender on one MTB. I make my own spacers as needed and I like to run my clearance as tight as possible (usually no light visible around the tire). I should note that these are all on-road use for wet weather, no mud. I am starting my first winter of commuting and I expect to increase my clearances some to accommodate snow and slush.
    Some old bikes........and a few newer ones that don't get ridden very often.

  20. #2520
    High Plains Luddite
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    @one haff wulf: Can you stand yet another question about your bike? I think one thing that makes it look so "clean" is you have your shifter cables under the handlebar tape instead of sticking out from near the bottom as so many do.

    How is your shifting with all that extra cable length?

    I ask because I'm interested in bar-end shifters when I do my eventual drop bar conversion but I don't like the idea of having cables exit from the drops where my hands will sometimes be, yet I assume that having the cables run the length of the bar might make shifting a little sloppy, especially in index mode.

    Thanks.

  21. #2521
    WNG
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    [Squeeze]

    I know the above question was directed at one half wuff, but thought I'd provide my experiences with such routing. I also prefer the clean and less cables look of wrapping the bar end housings. I did it to my Schwinn Crosscut gravel grinder and Trek 1000 road bike. Both used Ultegra 8-speed shifters. I did not have any loss of shifting precision. Note, I do prefer to cross the cables under the down tube whenever possible to reduce the bends exiting the bars.
    Just use a well made derailleur cable like the SRAM 1.1mm die-drawn and PTFE-coated tandem model for the long run to the rear. I used a 1.2mm Jagwire tandem cable before discovering the SRAM offering. But my shifting is functioning fine.
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
    "Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow." ~Albert Einstein

  22. #2522
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixed1313 View Post
    I use the correct fender size for the wheel size on all my bikes so far. The only issue I have had is a small amount of lift at the front edge of the front fender on one MTB. I make my own spacers as needed and I like to run my clearance as tight as possible (usually no light visible around the tire). I should note that these are all on-road use for wet weather, no mud. I am starting my first winter of commuting and I expect to increase my clearances some to accommodate snow and slush.
    I agree, I don't like to see light between the tire and fender. Also it seems to me the fender will do its job better if it's closer to the tire, all else being equal. Usually the fenderline comes down to some compromise of 1. aesthetics; 2. stay bridge clearance (not so much on mtbs); 3. clearance for wheel removal (not as critical with vertical dropouts). If #2 isn't an issue then I would space the front of the fender so it looks good and allows for wheel removal, then maintain that fenderline by whatever means you can devise.

    An mtb with vertical dropouts should be one of the easiest bikes to fit with fenders. On one with horizontal dropouts, depending on the tire size, I might be inclined to space the fender so that the tire has to be deflated for removal. To do otherwise would, to my eye at least, create too much space when the wheel is mounted.

  23. #2523
    High Plains Luddite
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    Quote Originally Posted by WNG View Post
    [Squeeze]

    I know the above question was directed at one half wuff, but thought I'd provide my experiences with such routing. I also prefer the clean and less cables look of wrapping the bar end housings. I did it to my Schwinn Crosscut gravel grinder and Trek 1000 road bike. Both used Ultegra 8-speed shifters. I did not have any loss of shifting precision. Note, I do prefer to cross the cables under the down tube whenever possible to reduce the bends exiting the bars.
    Just use a well made derailleur cable like the SRAM 1.1mm die-drawn and PTFE-coated tandem model for the long run to the rear. I used a 1.2mm Jagwire tandem cable before discovering the SRAM offering. But my shifting is functioning fine.
    Thanks for your input, WNG. Much appreciated.

  24. #2524
    Senior Member adventurepdx's Avatar
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    Not my bike, but saw this interesting drop-bar conversion on Portland Craigslist:

    http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4200539824.html
    26" Wheel Touring / Commuter with Surly Fork and Chris King - $380 (Ne Portland)
    This is a Gary Fisher steel mtb frame converted to a touring/commuter bike. It has dura ace bar end shifters, salsa stem and handle bars, cane creek levers and brakes, chris king headset, brand new chain, cassette, and chainrings, XT read derailer, sugino cranks. I just did a full tune up and put new cables and housing on. Should fit someone 5'7" to 5'10 or so.
    garyfisherdropbar1.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by adventurepdx; 11-19-13 at 10:43 AM. Reason: Uploaded better image
    http://urbanadventureleague.blogspot.com/ http://societyofthreespeeds.wordpress.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/urbanadventureleaguepdx/

  25. #2525
    Senior Member bikemig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
    Realize the bb is usually a lot higher on a MTB, so the same frame size will be quite a bit taller.

    Put me in the half way club. I traditionally rode an 18 inch mtb, tried a 19 inch, it was too big. Meanwhile, on road bikes, I ride about a 22 inch frame. My latest MTB drop bar conversion was a 20 inch frame size, "half way" between my traditional mtb size and road bike size.
    No. 1; that's what I'm planning on doing as well.

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