Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

User Tag List
Bicycle Addict, TireLever-07

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-05-13, 12:17 PM   #2501
one half wuff
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Central Texas
Bikes: Cannondale 3.0, Raleigh Competition, Giant XTC, GT Outback Trek 710, Mondia Special, AD Olympian
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Wintermute: Those bars were actually my second choice the first being WTB dirt drops but I couldn't find any of those and when I finally did they were very expensive. Those Ichigear bars were under $30.
one half wuff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-13, 12:46 PM   #2502
know1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
1987 Stumpjumper





know1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-13, 12:58 PM   #2503
WNG
Spin Forest! Spin!
 
WNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Posts: 5,967
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
^Very nice Stumpjumper!
WNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-13, 01:03 PM   #2504
cyclotoine
Senior Member
 
cyclotoine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Yukon, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 8,504
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNG View Post
^Very nice Stumpjumper!
Agreed, it's a beauty, love the moustache bars. Would love to see a nice light weight stem on there though. Like a salsa or ritchey or something.
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
cyclotoine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-13, 01:20 PM   #2505
likebike23 
Rides Majestic
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Westfield, MA
Bikes: 1983 Univega Gran Turismo, 1970 Schwinn Super Sport, 2001 Univega Modo Vincere, Self-Built Nashbar Touring, 1974 Peugeot U08, 1974 Atala Grand Prix, 1986 Ross Mt. Hood, 80's Maruishi MT-18
Posts: 1,358
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
That Stumpjumper is sweet. Lovin' the chainstay u-brakes!
likebike23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-13, 01:43 PM   #2506
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 5,379
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNG View Post
^Very nice Stumpjumper!
+1 That's in really nice shape. Cool color scheme too - a bit understated for the '80s but still lively enough to put a grin on your face I'll bet. What bars are those?
due ruote is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-13, 09:34 AM   #2507
Chris Chicago
Senior Member
 
Chris Chicago's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: near north side
Bikes:
Posts: 1,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
preferably not too heavy
Chris Chicago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-13, 09:52 AM   #2508
Chitown_Mike
That guy from the Chi
 
Chitown_Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Chicago
Bikes: 88 Trek 800 - gone to new cheeks; '14 Trek 1.2 - aka The X1 Advanced; '13 Trek 3500 Disc
Posts: 1,006
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Chicago View Post
I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
preferably not too heavy

I am assuming you are from the northside of Chicago? If so, hello! Same here! Jeff Park/Gladstone park area.

As for a tire, I picked up the Continental Double Fighter II tires and love them. No flats, about 600 miles so far, and they eat up the lovely road surfaces of Chicago without an issue. Great smooth tread with some more aggressive tread on the sides if you end up on a non-asphalt surface. I will definitely be purchasing another set when these wear out. I have a 26" x 1.95" tire on my conversion. I am able to maintain the same speeds I saw on my old road bike, my top speeds (sprints) haven't change much except for the gearing on the bike, and they are relatively quiet.

However, currently not riding due to a broken hand, but I plan on riding in the snow which from what I read these are a decent all season tire. Especially since Chicago plows the streets.
Chitown_Mike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-13, 02:05 PM   #2509
Velognome 
Get off my lawn!
 
Velognome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Garden State
Bikes: 1917 Loomis, 1923 Rudge, 1930 Hercules Renown, 1947 Mclean, 1948 JA Holland, 1955 Hetchins, 1957 Carlton Flyer, 1962 Raleigh Sport, 1978&81 Raleigh Gomp GS', 2010 Raliegh Clubman
Posts: 6,113
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Chicago View Post
I'm looking for recommendations for a 26in street tire with at least 1.75min width. any advice?
preferably not too heavy
Panaracer Pasela or if you have the extra coin, Compass
Velognome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-13, 02:39 PM   #2510
Chris Chicago
Senior Member
 
Chris Chicago's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: near north side
Bikes:
Posts: 1,164
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
I cant find the paselas in all black. not sure if they exist. I have the tan walls on another bike and like them. but paid under 20 somehow. would like to find something at that price.

nashbar/performance have good ones for even less, but 1.5in is the max. chitown mike's idea of a smooth middle aggressive sides tire is a good suggestion I hadn't considered. most I'm seeing are either heavy or pricey too.
Chris Chicago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-13, 09:54 PM   #2511
one half wuff
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Central Texas
Bikes: Cannondale 3.0, Raleigh Competition, Giant XTC, GT Outback Trek 710, Mondia Special, AD Olympian
Posts: 80
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNG View Post
^Very nice Stumpjumper!
That is really is nicely done. Bars are a great touch too.

Thanks for sharing. Only trouble is that bike makes me want to start another one.
one half wuff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-13, 11:06 AM   #2512
neo_pop_71
Senior Member
 
neo_pop_71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: SoCal
Bikes:
Posts: 829
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by one half wuff View Post
Only trouble is that bike makes me want to start another one.
Bike addiction 101...

1. Don't start!

2. Give up... you're hooked and you'll never stop building as there will always be more inspiration!!!
neo_pop_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-13, 11:39 AM   #2513
WNG
Spin Forest! Spin!
 
WNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Posts: 5,967
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Teaser...

WNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-13, 12:18 PM   #2514
cyclotoine
Senior Member
 
cyclotoine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Yukon, Canada
Bikes:
Posts: 8,504
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
looks like a nice steel giant you got there. ^
__________________
1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear
cyclotoine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-13, 03:13 PM   #2515
kehomer
Senior Member
 
kehomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Georgia
Bikes:
Posts: 268
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velognome View Post
Panaracer Pasela or if you have the extra coin, Compass
Don't overlook the Panaracer T-Serv, all black. Same carcass as the Compass and less expensive. Runs about $40.00 each. Mine ride great.
kehomer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-13, 06:55 PM   #2516
Taxi Rob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bland Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 165
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Fender question

Without getting into brand recommendations, can any of you share your experiences with different radius issues stemming from the huge frame clearance on older MTBs? Like, is it better to use a fender designed for 700c wheelsets in some instances? I'm finding that may I have to do that with some of them if I want to maintain even clearance between the tire and fender all the way around. Is it mostly hit or miss, or have any of you figured out a frame clearance "cutoff" distance that determines which is better?
Taxi Rob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-13, 08:38 PM   #2517
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 5,379
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxi Rob View Post
Without getting into brand recommendations, can any of you share your experiences with different radius issues stemming from the huge frame clearance on older MTBs? Like, is it better to use a fender designed for 700c wheelsets in some instances? I'm finding that may I have to do that with some of them if I want to maintain even clearance between the tire and fender all the way around. Is it mostly hit or miss, or have any of you figured out a frame clearance "cutoff" distance that determines which is better?
I would use a spacer of some kind to bring the fender closer to the tire no matter what size you use. This bike is wearing Planet Bike 700c fenders with 26 x 1.25 tires. I spaced the front edge of the rear fender (don't remember what I used; either cork or an alloy spacer), then used the stays to pull the radius in to achieve a decent fender line. I have no idea whether other brands or materials would adapt their radius, but with these it was a snap.
due ruote is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-13, 09:44 PM   #2518
Taxi Rob
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bland Diego, CA
Bikes:
Posts: 165
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
I would use a spacer of some kind to bring the fender closer to the tire no matter what size you use.
Ok, that's heading in the right direction. Since you brought it up, what's a good rule of thumb for general tire clearance, assuming I could change the radius however much I needed to? I mean, assuming I won't be 'froadin through sticky river mud, what is a good distance to maintain from the tread block? I put a set of 700 fenders onto my Alpina Pro with WTB Slick 1.5s just as a mock up, and the clearance was even, but it was a good 1-3/8" away from the tread. Would that much clearance cause issues with drag at higher speeds/in high winds? Or is that effect negligible? Or should I spend the next year and $1k trying out different combinations and post my findings in a separate thread?
Taxi Rob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-13, 10:19 PM   #2519
fixed1313 
Senior Member
 
fixed1313's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Bikes: '76 Raleigh Grand Prix,' 75 Raleigh Sports, '69 - '73 Raleigh Drop Bar 3-speed, '59 Parliament, '52? Raleigh Sports, '75 Raleigh Super Course, Surly Cross Check, Bridgestone RB-1
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I use the correct fender size for the wheel size on all my bikes so far. The only issue I have had is a small amount of lift at the front edge of the front fender on one MTB. I make my own spacers as needed and I like to run my clearance as tight as possible (usually no light visible around the tire). I should note that these are all on-road use for wet weather, no mud. I am starting my first winter of commuting and I expect to increase my clearances some to accommodate snow and slush.
__________________
Some old bikes........and a few newer ones that don't get ridden very often.
fixed1313 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-13, 10:22 AM   #2520
Squeeze
High Plains Luddite
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Colorado
Bikes: 1 road bike, 1 MTB
Posts: 365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
@one haff wulf: Can you stand yet another question about your bike? I think one thing that makes it look so "clean" is you have your shifter cables under the handlebar tape instead of sticking out from near the bottom as so many do.

How is your shifting with all that extra cable length?

I ask because I'm interested in bar-end shifters when I do my eventual drop bar conversion but I don't like the idea of having cables exit from the drops where my hands will sometimes be, yet I assume that having the cables run the length of the bar might make shifting a little sloppy, especially in index mode.

Thanks.
Squeeze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-13, 11:29 AM   #2521
WNG
Spin Forest! Spin!
 
WNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Arrid Zone-a
Bikes: I used to have many. And I Will again.
Posts: 5,967
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
[Squeeze]

I know the above question was directed at one half wuff, but thought I'd provide my experiences with such routing. I also prefer the clean and less cables look of wrapping the bar end housings. I did it to my Schwinn Crosscut gravel grinder and Trek 1000 road bike. Both used Ultegra 8-speed shifters. I did not have any loss of shifting precision. Note, I do prefer to cross the cables under the down tube whenever possible to reduce the bends exiting the bars.
Just use a well made derailleur cable like the SRAM 1.1mm die-drawn and PTFE-coated tandem model for the long run to the rear. I used a 1.2mm Jagwire tandem cable before discovering the SRAM offering. But my shifting is functioning fine.
WNG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-13, 01:24 PM   #2522
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 5,379
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fixed1313 View Post
I use the correct fender size for the wheel size on all my bikes so far. The only issue I have had is a small amount of lift at the front edge of the front fender on one MTB. I make my own spacers as needed and I like to run my clearance as tight as possible (usually no light visible around the tire). I should note that these are all on-road use for wet weather, no mud. I am starting my first winter of commuting and I expect to increase my clearances some to accommodate snow and slush.
I agree, I don't like to see light between the tire and fender. Also it seems to me the fender will do its job better if it's closer to the tire, all else being equal. Usually the fenderline comes down to some compromise of 1. aesthetics; 2. stay bridge clearance (not so much on mtbs); 3. clearance for wheel removal (not as critical with vertical dropouts). If #2 isn't an issue then I would space the front of the fender so it looks good and allows for wheel removal, then maintain that fenderline by whatever means you can devise.

An mtb with vertical dropouts should be one of the easiest bikes to fit with fenders. On one with horizontal dropouts, depending on the tire size, I might be inclined to space the fender so that the tire has to be deflated for removal. To do otherwise would, to my eye at least, create too much space when the wheel is mounted.
due ruote is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-13, 02:31 PM   #2523
Squeeze
High Plains Luddite
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Colorado
Bikes: 1 road bike, 1 MTB
Posts: 365
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by WNG View Post
[Squeeze]

I know the above question was directed at one half wuff, but thought I'd provide my experiences with such routing. I also prefer the clean and less cables look of wrapping the bar end housings. I did it to my Schwinn Crosscut gravel grinder and Trek 1000 road bike. Both used Ultegra 8-speed shifters. I did not have any loss of shifting precision. Note, I do prefer to cross the cables under the down tube whenever possible to reduce the bends exiting the bars.
Just use a well made derailleur cable like the SRAM 1.1mm die-drawn and PTFE-coated tandem model for the long run to the rear. I used a 1.2mm Jagwire tandem cable before discovering the SRAM offering. But my shifting is functioning fine.
Thanks for your input, WNG. Much appreciated.
Squeeze is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-13, 11:41 AM   #2524
adventurepdx
Senior Member
 
adventurepdx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Portland, Oregon
Bikes:
Posts: 708
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Not my bike, but saw this interesting drop-bar conversion on Portland Craigslist:

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/4200539824.html
26" Wheel Touring / Commuter with Surly Fork and Chris King - $380 (Ne Portland)
This is a Gary Fisher steel mtb frame converted to a touring/commuter bike. It has dura ace bar end shifters, salsa stem and handle bars, cane creek levers and brakes, chris king headset, brand new chain, cassette, and chainrings, XT read derailer, sugino cranks. I just did a full tune up and put new cables and housing on. Should fit someone 5'7" to 5'10 or so.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg garyfisherdropbar1.jpg (1.1 KB, 763 views)
File Type: jpg garyfisherdropbar1.jpg (46.5 KB, 154 views)

Last edited by adventurepdx; 11-19-13 at 11:43 AM. Reason: Uploaded better image
adventurepdx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-13, 11:57 AM   #2525
bikemig 
Senior Member
 
bikemig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Middle Earth (aka IA)
Bikes: A lot of old bikes and a few new ones
Posts: 10,156
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Realize the bb is usually a lot higher on a MTB, so the same frame size will be quite a bit taller.

Put me in the half way club. I traditionally rode an 18 inch mtb, tried a 19 inch, it was too big. Meanwhile, on road bikes, I ride about a 22 inch frame. My latest MTB drop bar conversion was a 20 inch frame size, "half way" between my traditional mtb size and road bike size.
No. 1; that's what I'm planning on doing as well.
bikemig is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:42 AM.