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  1. #2626
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamplight View Post
    My 1989-90ish Rocky Mountain Stratos, courtesy of our very own Sixty Fiver (thank you sir!). I'm working on making this my primary commuter bike and I'm not at all done, but it's so light and responsive (and surprisingly smooth) like this that I almost hate to add my lights, rack, and heavy bag.

    Attachment 355563Attachment 355564Attachment 355565

    And no, I'm not leaving the steerer tube like that.
    Wow, how is the fit like that? Those frames are pretty bad ass. Is that front fender stay that attaches to the canti boss something you made?
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  2. #2627
    Senior Member Lamplight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclotoine View Post
    Wow, how is the fit like that? Those frames are pretty bad ass. Is that front fender stay that attaches to the canti boss something you made?
    The fit is pretty good for me (I'm about 5'9"), but I have to use a pretty upright stem to get the bars close to level with the saddle, which is about as far as I can comfortably lean over. I modified an existing fender stay to mount to the brake bosses. It works for now, but I'm going to have to alter it soon to improve it. There's a bit too much in-built stress the way I have it now.

  3. #2628
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    I'd like to know more about the fenders as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  4. #2629
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Here's a crazy idea for folks looking for get a more "road-like" head tube angle out of their mtbs. It works best with sloping top tube frames but you can do it with level top tubes as well.

    Basically you take a suspension fork and remove the guts from it and compress it all the way. this creates a fork that is shorter than your standard fork, which creates a sharper effective top tube angle. it also will shorten the wheel base a tiny bit and also increase the seat tube angle.. all characteristics of road bikes. With a sloping top tube bike, you can almost make the top tube level.


    I haven't tried this out on my drop bar conversion bikes, but i have done it on my polo bike and it definitely changes the way it rides. I haven't figured out a way to keep the fork compressed without using zip ties, but once i figure out a clean way to do it, i'd like to experiment a bit and see how it feels
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  5. #2630
    ish
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    Couldn't you achieve the same result in a better fashion by putting a pre-suspension (smaller axle to crown) fork on a suspension-corrected frame?

  6. #2631
    80's bikes FTW
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    Here's a crazy idea for folks looking for get a more "road-like" head tube angle out of their mtbs. It works best with sloping top tube frames but you can do it with level top tubes as well.

    Basically you take a suspension fork and remove the guts from it and compress it all the way. this creates a fork that is shorter than your standard fork, which creates a sharper effective top tube angle. it also will shorten the wheel base a tiny bit and also increase the seat tube angle.. all characteristics of road bikes. With a sloping top tube bike, you can almost make the top tube level.


    I haven't tried this out on my drop bar conversion bikes, but i have done it on my polo bike and it definitely changes the way it rides. I haven't figured out a way to keep the fork compressed without using zip ties, but once i figure out a clean way to do it, i'd like to experiment a bit and see how it feels
    That is an interesting idea, you could just remove the guts and then epoxy the stanchions so that they cannot physically more anymore. At that point youve ruined that SUS fork but if its something really old that you cant rebuild at least youre getting extra life out of it. A lot of older forks are very light and when you remove the innards they are almost as lightweight as a typical cro-mo rigid fork.
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  7. #2632
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ish View Post
    Couldn't you achieve the same result in a better fashion by putting a pre-suspension (smaller axle to crown) fork on a suspension-corrected frame?
    yes.

    You could also just measure your axle to crown on whatever you have and seek a fork that is shorter. You only need about 10mm shorter fork to steepen the angles by about half a degree as a very rough estimate.
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  8. #2633
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    Quote Originally Posted by ish View Post
    Couldn't you achieve the same result in a better fashion by putting a pre-suspension (smaller axle to crown) fork on a suspension-corrected frame?
    it probably depends on the fork but when fully compressed with all the innards removed, a judy rock shox fork is even shorter than any rigid fork i have by at least a few cm
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  9. #2634
    Jack of all trades anixi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    it probably depends on the fork but when fully compressed with all the innards removed, a judy rock shox fork is even shorter than any rigid fork i have by at least a few cm
    One option would be to replace the springs (if it has them) with the highest rating. That way you only get compression when you have a very heavy rider, or, no compression at all with someone weighing between 150-175lbs.
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  10. #2635
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    ^ you don't want the springs in there.. the idea is to make the fork as short as possible
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  11. #2636
    80's bikes FTW
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    ^ you don't want the springs in there.. the idea is to make the fork as short as possible
    Im still thinking you find the optimal length and then epoxy the poop out of the lowers and the stanchions will NOT ever move again.
    1988 Schwinn Prologue ,1985 Benotto Modelo 850 SS/Fixed , 1994 Univega Alpina 5.5 , 2011 Diamondback Response, 1997 Giant ATX 970, 1995 Specialized FSR , 2007 Litespeed Niota AL

  12. #2637
    Senior Member Lamplight's Avatar
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    I think the 26" Surly LHT fork is pretty short. In fact I'm kind of wishing I had used one of those instead of the Surly fork I chose. I may replace it before I cut the steerer tube.

  13. #2638
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
    Im still thinking you find the optimal length and then epoxy the poop out of the lowers and the stanchions will NOT ever move again.
    yeah thats not a bad idea.. the epoxy doesnt even really have to do much except prevent gravity from extending the fork back out
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  14. #2639
    Junior Member Goosecheck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamplight View Post
    The fit is pretty good for me (I'm about 5'9"), but I have to use a pretty upright stem to get the bars close to level with the saddle, which is about as far as I can comfortably lean over. I modified an existing fender stay to mount to the brake bosses. It works for now, but I'm going to have to alter it soon to improve it. There's a bit too much in-built stress the way I have it now.
    I like it, nice! Surly 1x1 works well. Have the same fork on my Mongoose Rockadile drop bar.

  15. #2640
    Senior Member Lamplight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goosecheck View Post
    I like it, nice! Surly 1x1 works well. Have the same fork on my Mongoose Rockadile drop bar.
    Did you post your Rockadile in this thread? My current commuter is a 1993 Rockadile I bought new. Heavy but pretty much the toughest bike I've ever owned. If this Rocky Mountain works out as my new commuter, the Rockadile will go back to being my heavy cargo/grocery bike.

    Edit: Just found your Rockadile. Very nice! Was 94 the year they switched to double butted tubing? I think mine's just straight-gauge chromoly. So very heavy!
    Last edited by Lamplight; 12-23-13 at 02:58 PM.

  16. #2641
    Junior Member Goosecheck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamplight View Post
    Did you post your Rockadile in this thread? My current commuter is a 1993 Rockadile I bought new. Heavy but pretty much the toughest bike I've ever owned. If this Rocky Mountain works out as my new commuter, the Rockadile will go back to being my heavy cargo/grocery bike.

    Edit: Just found your Rockadile. Very nice! Was 94 the year they switched to double butted tubing? I think mine's just straight-gauge chromoly. So very heavy!
    Yes, I believe mine is butted. It's "light" enough anyhow, at least it doesn't bother me. I commute, trail, offroad, and century on it (well necessarily with the racks all the time). As tough as it is and as well as it rides, it deserves to keep seeing action.

  17. #2642
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamplight View Post
    I think the 26" Surly LHT fork is pretty short. In fact I'm kind of wishing I had used one of those instead of the Surly fork I chose. I may replace it before I cut the steerer tube.
    Yes, it's got an a-t-c of 376mm. The next-shortest Surly fork (aside from the disc-trucker, which shares the same a-t-c as the LHT) is the shorter 1x1 fork, at 413mm.

    I get the idea of trying to gut and freeze an old suspension fork, but I'd worry about long-term durability and I reckon it'd look a mess.

  18. #2643
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    at 38cm that is pretty close to a fully compressed suspension fork. and more attractive. but old sus forks are probably easier/cheaper to come by
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  19. #2644
    Senior Member surreal's Avatar
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    BITD, I had a chromoly Kona full-rigid that i'd converted to drop-bars, xd 48/36/26 triple, barcons, etc. Rack, bags, blah blah blah.
    I loved the bike, but it's reverted to mountain bike duty, and has been for a few years.

    The drop-bar mtb bug has bitten me again, and I got a cool frame for it. I'm still up in the air if I want to go with drop bars or northroad-style upright bars. Thing is, the Kalloy 115d dirt-drop style stem I got won't accommodate my Nitto bars. The clamp area, which looks basically narrow and normal-ish, will not allow the bends of the dropbar to pass thru. NBD, as I can just run a different stem, but that'd necessitate my getting some other variety of cable hanger, etc... So, yeah, I'm frustrated. the stem is but a small hiccup, but the fact that it frustrates me so indicates that I've lost my way with this build.

    I guess I need some spiritual guidance/advice. I'm committed to building an all-rounder with some serious touring/bike-camping flavor-- that'll happen regardless, and I'll probably end up spending about the same amount of money regardless of cockpit set-up... I just guess I want/need someone to re-sell me on the drop-bar mtb thing. For every inspiring pic I see on this thread, I see about 3 that make me wanna go upright....

  20. #2645
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Its easy enough to go with a headset spacer cable stop. They can be purchased for less than $5. I like the stems Oddjob has picked up from Amazon. They make bar changes super easy.

    All the bikes I own, the one that gets ridden is the Cimmaron drop bar conversion. I have short legs and a long torso, so the longish top tube is not a problem for me.

    I usually add small misc parts like this one to larger orders to avoid shipping charges. Lots of versions of this style of stop.

    http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...justable-steel

  21. #2646
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    CR-7 Drop Bar 700c Project: (Built the whole bike around the stem...couldn't stand to have it gathering dust on my desk)























    Steve

  22. #2647
    WNG
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    Spin Forest! Spin! WNG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastcoaststeve View Post
    CR-7 Drop Bar 700c Project: (Built the whole bike around the stem...couldn't stand to have it gathering dust on my desk)







    Steve
    Steve,
    Wow! This interesting build deserves a more detail write-up. It looks fantastic. How do the 700C wheels compare to the 26"?
    “You meet the nicest people on two wheels!"
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  23. #2648
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    Grafton, FTW, etc..

    Looks fun Steve....
    Seek: Early 80's Mountain Goat Bar/Stem Combo.

  24. #2649
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamplight View Post
    My 1989-90ish Rocky Mountain Stratos, courtesy of our very own Sixty Fiver (thank you sir!). I'm working on making this my primary commuter bike and I'm not at all done, but it's so light and responsive (and surprisingly smooth) like this that I almost hate to add my lights, rack, and heavy bag.

    Attachment 355563Attachment 355564Attachment 355565

    And no, I'm not leaving the steerer tube like that.
    I told you it was a rocket... good that it went to my brother from another mother.

    Last edited by Sixty Fiver; 12-25-13 at 11:58 PM.

  25. #2650
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by surreal View Post
    BITD, I had a chromoly Kona full-rigid that i'd converted to drop-bars, xd 48/36/26 triple, barcons, etc. Rack, bags, blah blah blah.
    I loved the bike, but it's reverted to mountain bike duty, and has been for a few years.

    The drop-bar mtb bug has bitten me again, and I got a cool frame for it. I'm still up in the air if I want to go with drop bars or northroad-style upright bars. Thing is, the Kalloy 115d dirt-drop style stem I got won't accommodate my Nitto bars. The clamp area, which looks basically narrow and normal-ish, will not allow the bends of the dropbar to pass thru. NBD, as I can just run a different stem, but that'd necessitate my getting some other variety of cable hanger, etc... So, yeah, I'm frustrated. the stem is but a small hiccup, but the fact that it frustrates me so indicates that I've lost my way with this build.

    I guess I need some spiritual guidance/advice. I'm committed to building an all-rounder with some serious touring/bike-camping flavor-- that'll happen regardless, and I'll probably end up spending about the same amount of money regardless of cockpit set-up... I just guess I want/need someone to re-sell me on the drop-bar mtb thing. For every inspiring pic I see on this thread, I see about 3 that make me wanna go upright....
    From my perspective as a drop-bar addict , I'd think they should be great for all-rounder duty if set at the right height for you -- many of the bikes here have their handlebars at or even slightly above the saddle. Have you seen this column on making quill stems play nicely with drop bars? https://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/...r-into-a-stem/
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
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