Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#2701
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Confused. The suntour Barrons I have from the 70s and 80s also have an expander bolt that tightens and loosens with an allen wrench. They also take just a few minutes to install: pop the pod in, tighten the expander, slide the shifter in, run the axel through, adjust the locking nut. How are the new shimanos simpler?
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I have Huret and Suntour bar end shifters that utilize a threaded expender wedge and there are no adjustment bolts. The only way to tighten or loosen the shifter assembly is to spin the entire shifter body. The expander wedge is knurled, this requires you to pre-adjust the fit so it's just small enough to insert into the end of the bar, now you twist the shift body to tighten and pray that it bites. Good luck getting it to tighten up and be in the proper position! Now begins the trial and error period of your nightmare. Eventually you insert it out of ideal position, spin to tighten, and then gorilla grip the shifter into the perfect spot.
So, no... not all bar end shifters are the same design... there are some very frustrating designs should you desire the aggravation.
So, no... not all bar end shifters are the same design... there are some very frustrating designs should you desire the aggravation.
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I posted my 87 Cimarron (23" model)
earlier in this thread as pictured in the first pic but then tore it down for a while and
used the parts on a different bike. I recently acquired the wheels & parts to build it back up & decided on
trying albatross bars for a while and as fat a set of tires as would fit.
Current Config with Albatross bars and 26" x 2.3 Michelin Pilot Sports (Measures 58mm wide with calipers)
I refer to it as my mini Moonlander.
I rode it 53 miles yesterday for a good test and I liked it.
Those fat tires really absorb the rough street sections.
I may go back to drop bars soon if I decide on the plus of more hand positions they offer for long rides
and have drop bars on my other bikes.
It doesn't strictly fit in now with the thread topic but it is running bars different than the original mtb bars
and I was wondering if others have tried albatross bars as an alternative to drop bars on their vintage mtb's..
earlier in this thread as pictured in the first pic but then tore it down for a while and
used the parts on a different bike. I recently acquired the wheels & parts to build it back up & decided on
trying albatross bars for a while and as fat a set of tires as would fit.
Current Config with Albatross bars and 26" x 2.3 Michelin Pilot Sports (Measures 58mm wide with calipers)
I refer to it as my mini Moonlander.
I rode it 53 miles yesterday for a good test and I liked it.
Those fat tires really absorb the rough street sections.
I may go back to drop bars soon if I decide on the plus of more hand positions they offer for long rides
and have drop bars on my other bikes.
It doesn't strictly fit in now with the thread topic but it is running bars different than the original mtb bars
and I was wondering if others have tried albatross bars as an alternative to drop bars on their vintage mtb's..
#2706
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Nice cimmaron copperryder. I love the look with those bars and tires. I did a similar thing with my Schwinn Sierra, only with northroad bars. How do those tires roll? I've been looking for fatties that actually roll fast. I'm not sure if that's a pipe dream, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
#2707
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^ I like the updated look of your Cimarron. The balloon tires offers a whole different profile.
I tried a set of CST 2.4" tires after forumite Chris_in_Miami installed a pair to his High Sierra. They look and ride nice on my 26" wheeled hybrid.
I tried a set of CST 2.4" tires after forumite Chris_in_Miami installed a pair to his High Sierra. They look and ride nice on my 26" wheeled hybrid.
#2708
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(I can't find a photo of the dirt version, here is a mocked up commuter, and the finished cafe/pub bike)
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this is nice pic of my cheap mtb/db conversion. I really love how this bike ride. Everyone should have one of this.
Last edited by hemizach; 01-27-14 at 11:41 AM.
#2710
High Plains Luddite
A while back someone started a new thread about just this - same stem and everything, and I thought I had bookmarked that thread but I guess I didn't. I can't find it.
I'm ready to start ordering parts for my drop bar conversion prior to the spring thaw when this fairly fair-weather bicycle commuter will start riding regularly again.
What specific dirt drop stems can you guys recommend for this bike? Note that currently the front brake cable goes through the stem. I would need that feature or the little thing that holds the cable near where the stem enters the frame.
The photo shows the riser bars at the right height for me. Ignore the bar ends - I could never get them how I liked them, so I switched to Origin 8 drop bar ends, which are okay but not the ultimate solution. I'm assuming I need a stem that's taller and has a shorter reach. I'm also all for getting a stem with a removable face plate.
Is it worth getting an inexpensive adjustable stem to play with height and reach and then finding a fixed stem with known dimensions after some test-riding, rather than guessing?
I intend to use Salsa Woodchipper bars and Shimano 3 x 8 bar-end shifters, if that matters. I'd like to get good stuff with the idea that I can move them to other bikes in the future, and I also think doing a drop bar conversion will be a good, but not overly difficult, intro to working on my own bike beyond keeping the tire pressure where I like it.
Thanks for any specific stem links. I tried Nashbar and Amazon so far. It seems like the bike stuff on Amazon (everything, not just stems) gets terrible reviews as being of dubious quality from anonymous Chinese factories. I'm guessing you guys know were to get the good stuff that will last.
Thanks!
I'm ready to start ordering parts for my drop bar conversion prior to the spring thaw when this fairly fair-weather bicycle commuter will start riding regularly again.
What specific dirt drop stems can you guys recommend for this bike? Note that currently the front brake cable goes through the stem. I would need that feature or the little thing that holds the cable near where the stem enters the frame.
The photo shows the riser bars at the right height for me. Ignore the bar ends - I could never get them how I liked them, so I switched to Origin 8 drop bar ends, which are okay but not the ultimate solution. I'm assuming I need a stem that's taller and has a shorter reach. I'm also all for getting a stem with a removable face plate.
Is it worth getting an inexpensive adjustable stem to play with height and reach and then finding a fixed stem with known dimensions after some test-riding, rather than guessing?
I intend to use Salsa Woodchipper bars and Shimano 3 x 8 bar-end shifters, if that matters. I'd like to get good stuff with the idea that I can move them to other bikes in the future, and I also think doing a drop bar conversion will be a good, but not overly difficult, intro to working on my own bike beyond keeping the tire pressure where I like it.
Thanks for any specific stem links. I tried Nashbar and Amazon so far. It seems like the bike stuff on Amazon (everything, not just stems) gets terrible reviews as being of dubious quality from anonymous Chinese factories. I'm guessing you guys know were to get the good stuff that will last.
Thanks!
#2711
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https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...black-anodized
The brake hanger you need (if you have 1 1/8" fork):
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...black-1274at-1
Or one of these will do too:
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...e-hanger-front
#2712
Thrifty Bill
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I have Huret and Suntour bar end shifters that utilize a threaded expender wedge and there are no adjustment bolts. The only way to tighten or loosen the shifter assembly is to spin the entire shifter body. The expander wedge is knurled, this requires you to pre-adjust the fit so it's just small enough to insert into the end of the bar, now you twist the shift body to tighten and pray that it bites. Good luck getting it to tighten up and be in the proper position! Now begins the trial and error period of your nightmare. Eventually you insert it out of ideal position, spin to tighten, and then gorilla grip the shifter into the perfect spot.
So, no... not all bar end shifters are the same design... there are some very frustrating designs should you desire the aggravation.
So, no... not all bar end shifters are the same design... there are some very frustrating designs should you desire the aggravation.
You don't twist the body, you turn the allen wrench bolt.
#2713
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Nope. You tighten the housing when installing the shifter body into your drop bars. Then the shift lever and cable are installed. To tighten more, you remove the shift lever and use the appropriate size allen wrench. I believe early Suntour and Shimano were both 6mm. Just realize you turn your wrench counter clockwise to tighten.
You don't twist the body, you turn the allen wrench bolt.
You don't twist the body, you turn the allen wrench bolt.
I have to be honest, I didn't expect any challenging replies to my initial posting... I get people can be mistaken and others are trying to help but at this point I'm sorry I ever replied.
#2714
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Actually I'm glad you did reply and post that nugget of info. I've been hunting for a pair of old Suntour barcons for cheap. And I would've assumed they were all the same construction, and not have looked for revisions. Thanks.
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#2717
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Yes, that is how you would install some of the new and old bar end shifters. That type of shifter was not what I described. As I stated previously, there are no allen head bolts to tighten down. Both the Huret and Suntour 5 speed shifters I'm speaking about rely on the knurled end to bite the inside of the handlebar. The shift end is cone shaped and threaded, the shifter body threads into the base and expands the spring mechanism. There is no hole anywhere for a securing bolt, this type of shifter threads the two body parts of the shifter together for anchoring. I'm assuming both of the 5 speed shifters are from some funky design period in the 1970's.
I have to be honest, I didn't expect any challenging replies to my initial posting... I get people can be mistaken and others are trying to help but at this point I'm sorry I ever replied.
I have to be honest, I didn't expect any challenging replies to my initial posting... I get people can be mistaken and others are trying to help but at this point I'm sorry I ever replied.
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Don't complain about the weather and cower in fear. It's all good weather. Just different.
Don't complain about the weather and cower in fear. It's all good weather. Just different.
#2720
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I'm sure he's talking about Suntour Friction (not 5 speed) Barcons. The installation method he describes is the way that people who don't understand how they work install them.
I'd be sorry I ever replied, too. I hate to be wrong.
I don't have a diagram of the Suntours, but here's one of the Simplex Retrofrictions I have on my Gitane. I've never seen bar end shifters that didn't install the same way. The method was described perfectly by wrk101 in #2712 .
I'd be sorry I ever replied, too. I hate to be wrong.
I don't have a diagram of the Suntours, but here's one of the Simplex Retrofrictions I have on my Gitane. I've never seen bar end shifters that didn't install the same way. The method was described perfectly by wrk101 in #2712 .
Last edited by Grand Bois; 01-30-14 at 05:37 PM.
#2722
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Yes, that is how you would install some of the new and old bar end shifters. That type of shifter was not what I described. As I stated previously, there are no allen head bolts to tighten down. Both the Huret and Suntour 5 speed shifters I'm speaking about rely on the knurled end to bite the inside of the handlebar. The shift end is cone shaped and threaded, the shifter body threads into the base and expands the spring mechanism. There is no hole anywhere for a securing bolt, this type of shifter threads the two body parts of the shifter together for anchoring. I'm assuming both of the 5 speed shifters are from some funky design period in the 1970's.
I have to be honest, I didn't expect any challenging replies to my initial posting... I get people can be mistaken and others are trying to help but at this point I'm sorry I ever replied.
I have to be honest, I didn't expect any challenging replies to my initial posting... I get people can be mistaken and others are trying to help but at this point I'm sorry I ever replied.
#2723
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Man, what a deal, these silly shifters don't deserve this kind of attention! Seriously fellas... you're going to be totally deflated when you see them as they look just like all the rest. That said, I don't have any photos presently, those shifters are in one of many milk crates in storage full of useless parts and I have no plans of going to storage any time soon. Sorry to burst your bubble or pop your cherry but I'm not bothering with any of this since I could give a crap if IthaDan, due ruote, Grand Bois, or the lot of you that doubt I'm capable of understanding the workings of a bar end shifter. Go pound sand amigos! WNG, cool brother, glad I could help with that small bit of info (BTW, I dig your Smufy Giant trail bike, really great job!).
#2725
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Man, what a deal, these silly shifters don't deserve this kind of attention! Seriously fellas... you're going to be totally deflated when you see them as they look just like all the rest. That said, I don't have any photos presently, those shifters are in one of many milk crates in storage full of useless parts and I have no plans of going to storage any time soon. Sorry to burst your bubble or pop your cherry but I'm not bothering with any of this since I could give a crap if IthaDan, due ruote, Grand Bois, or the lot of you that doubt I'm capable of understanding the workings of a bar end shifter. Go pound sand amigos! WNG, cool brother, glad I could help with that small bit of info (BTW, I dig your Smufy Giant trail bike, really great job!).
It wasn't a leap of logic to think maybe you were just having a case of the stupids that day, especially if you hadn't encountered barcons since. Sorry I went with the most obvious explanation, I should have kept in mind who was positing.