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  1. #2926
    Senior Member bconneraz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamer View Post
    Just an update on the Grizz. New tires, frame bag, and handlebars since the last post. New BB too, but that's not really observable.





    Your bike looks great. Tell me about your mudflaps- I was in Portland last week, and saw a couple bikes with rear "spray guards" like that; I'd love to put one on my bike.
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  2. #2927
    Senior Member bconneraz's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=cooperryder;16669579]My seat stays at the seat tube on my red Cimarron broke loose a few weeks ago.
    Before:


    After:
    Perhaps it secretly wanted to be a GT. Ha Ha!





    I disassembled the Peugeot a few days ago & will be rebuilding with some of the old and also some parts
    from the Cimarron as well as these 2.3 fat Michelin Pilot Sports. The Peugeot has a few cm more clearance for them than the Cimarron.
    I thought the similar matching checkered flags was a nice touch. (See downtube and tire sidewall.)


    I'll be crushed if that happens to my Cimarron; glad your fixing it as it's worth fixing.
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  3. #2928
    Senior Member Steamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bconneraz View Post
    Your bike looks great. Tell me about your mudflaps- I was in Portland last week, and saw a couple bikes with rear "spray guards" like that; I'd love to put one on my bike.
    :: BUDDY FLAPS :: * fancy

    the one in the back is for your buddies, the one in front is for your feet.

  4. #2929
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grand Bois View Post
    I have experience with the Nittos, so I can definitely say you can.
    Thanks, I'll keep my eye out for one of those. I figured a Nitto would work; was tempted by the Kalloy because they're readily available and cheap as, well, dirt. Hard to tell though from the picture whether the taper on the clamp would be sufficient to accomodate the bars.

    wrk101, the removable face plate is very sensible but I'm a sucker for the clean lines of a traditional quill so I'm going to tough it out.

  5. #2930
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
    wrk101, the removable face plate is very sensible but I'm a sucker for the clean lines of a traditional quill so I'm going to tough it out.
    wise choice
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  6. #2931
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamer View Post
    What tires are those? Paselas? Looks like a panaracer tread pattern...
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

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  7. #2932
    Senior Member Steamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    What tires are those? Paselas? Looks like a panaracer tread pattern...
    Compass 1.75's. Yes, same tread pattern as the Paselas. Ride quality and smoothness is a bit better though, especially if we are talking about the TG version of Paselas (which seems to be all you can buy these days; the plain versions are disappearing...)

  8. #2933
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    sweet i have two pairs of the compass tires I looked for the logo but didn't see it so i assumed they were paselas. I picked up a pair of NOS old school Paselas in 1" size for cheap and put em on my gf's bike. She's very happy with them so far..
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  9. #2934
    Hey let's ride. pathdoc's Avatar
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    photo (22).jpg

    My 26 inch wheel tandem with road bike handlebars

  10. #2935
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    ^ sweet
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

    Join the Chainstay Brake Mafia!

  11. #2936
    Senior Member jeremyb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yo Spiff View Post
    Can do even better. My Trek 900 frame was a freebie, with most of the drivetrain components still on it. Mines definitely a lesser frame, however.

    I have another similar project now. Just bought a '91 Schwinn Crosscut. More of a hybrid or cross frame, but it's still going to get built up into a drop bar configuration.

    One of the minor issues I had with mine was that my lever and V-brake combo resulted in two quick releases but no adjuster barrel. Not a biggie, as they are easy to manually tighten up when needed. However, I spotted these v-brake noodles with adjustment barrels on Niagara Cycle yesterday. Might be of help if anyone else has run into this.

    Iirc those crosscuts have crazy long top tubes.

  12. #2937
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    Looks good! I really like how older mountain bikes look with drops. Do you use a size smaller than usual (in mountain bike terms) to compensate for the additional stretch introduced by the handlebar? Or is that inadvisable, and just use a smaller/riser stem? I'd love to do this some day!
    http://treadrightly.blogspot.com/

  13. #2938
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by treadtread View Post
    Looks good! I really like how older mountain bikes look with drops. Do you use a size smaller than usual (in mountain bike terms) to compensate for the additional stretch introduced by the handlebar? Or is that inadvisable, and just use a smaller/riser stem? I'd love to do this some day!
    If you look at his seat height I would say he is using a size larger than normal in terms of BITD MTB fitment.

    My comment is that the dirt drop style stems tend to be very short reach and have a lot of rise so you shouldn't have to size up or down because MTB's were made silly long stems in the 1990s... Syncros even had a 170mm stem in some models... so it's the stem you use that will make all the difference.

    Sixty Fiver, I have noticed you tend to ride large frames and do not use short stems, do you have a proportionally long torso and/or arms?
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  14. #2939
    High Plains Luddite
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    Quick poll of drop-bar MTB riders, and especially those with traditionally "road-bike" shaped ones, not the Woodchippers and similar "off road drop bars", if anyone feels like playing along.

    Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?

    I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.

    Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.

    Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.

    Thanks.

  15. #2940
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by treadtread View Post
    Looks good! I really like how older mountain bikes look with drops. Do you use a size smaller than usual (in mountain bike terms) to compensate for the additional stretch introduced by the handlebar? Or is that inadvisable, and just use a smaller/riser stem? I'd love to do this some day!
    It is a higher rise / shorter reach stem...


  16. #2941
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squeeze View Post
    Quick poll of drop-bar MTB riders, and especially those with traditionally "road-bike" shaped ones, not the Woodchippers and similar "off road drop bars", if anyone feels like playing along.

    Did you ever take your drop bar commuter MTB out "mountain biking" and wish you had stuck with straight bars for single-track?

    I'm about to make a decision and just wanted any last minute opinions of should vs. shouldn't.


    Primary use for my MTB is commuting, especially that spring is here and summer is coming. However, I have friends who ride MTBs on nearby trails on weekend and wonder if I'll suffer for having drop bars. I'm not talking about crazy jumps or downhilling or anything - just regular ups and downs and rolling terrain, switchbacks, gullies, etc.

    Yeah, I've thought of N+1 but not ready for that yet.

    Thanks.

    I do not qualify for the poll, but I ride mountain bikes a lot and road bikes and I think you might be able to ride find but that you will give up a lot of speed and handling.
    1 Super Record bike, 1 Nuovo Record bike, 1 Pista, 1 Road, 1 Cyclocross/Allrounder, 1 MTB, 1 Touring, 1 Fixed gear

  17. #2942
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclotoine View Post
    If you look at his seat height I would say he is using a size larger than normal in terms of BITD MTB fitment.

    My comment is that the dirt drop style stems tend to be very short reach and have a lot of rise so you shouldn't have to size up or down because MTB's were made silly long stems in the 1990s... Syncros even had a 170mm stem in some models... so it's the stem you use that will make all the difference.

    Sixty Fiver, I have noticed you tend to ride large frames and do not use short stems, do you have a proportionally long torso and/or arms?
    I have a 33 inch riding inseam and longer arms with a fairly average torso for my five foot ten frame... 52-55cm is my range of rideability depending on geometry and setup on my road bikes and touring bikes.

    My Cooper road bike is a 55.5 with an 80mm stem and it fits like a glove, my P20 has an effective top tube of 54cm and I currently have an 80mm stem and am building a 100 mm custom stem.

    Most people who are my height find that they can't deal with the extra reach I have on my bikes and I can comfortably test ride 56-58 cm frames as long as they are not rocking extra long stems because I have the flexibility and reach... I also spend a lot of time in the drops and have more issues with sitting upright.

    My Blizzard is a 20 inch frame which is large for a mountain bike but the set up and reach are ideal for me... I have tried riding 18 inch frames and they feel cramped up top.

  18. #2943
    Senior Member kehomer's Avatar
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    This bike is about 90% completed. It started out as a 1986 Stumpjumper Sport frame and fork I purchased a year ago. The paint is candy-orange powder. The components are a mix of new, NOS and refurbished used. I think the most distinctive things about the bike are the Shimano 105 7sp downtube shifters and the color. The shifters are mounted on brazed on posts. I really like the relaxed geometry of the frame/fork. The 44/34/24 chainrings and the 32t big cassette gear help my old knees to get up these North Georgia hills. Aluminum fenders and lighter wheels are additions I hope to make soon. The bike weighs 26 1/2 pounds minus the rack.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Last edited by kehomer; 04-24-14 at 04:33 PM. Reason: spelling

  19. #2944
    Carpe Velo Yo Spiff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeremyb View Post
    Iirc those crosscuts have crazy long top tubes.
    Actually, the top tube on mine worked out just about right, and I don't have long arms. My converted Trek 900 has the bar reach good, but just a touch further than ideal. The crosscut is perfect.

    I did just change the crosscut from Salsa Woodchippers to OnOne Midge bars, so I'll see if the reach still works once I take it for a spin.
    2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, '92 Trek T100, 2000 Rans Tailwind

  20. #2945
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Kehomer, fantastic job on that Stumpjumper!

    What tires are you using?

  21. #2946
    Hey let's ride. pathdoc's Avatar
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    Great job, killer bicycle, love the color and the frame. Very nice.



    Quote Originally Posted by kehomer View Post
    This bike is about 90% completed. It started out as a 1986 Stumpjumper Sport frame and fork I purchased a year ago. The paint is candy-orange powder. The components are a mix of new, NOS and refurbished used. I think the most distinctive things about the bike are the Shimano 105 7sp downtube shifters and the color. The shifters are mounted on brazed on posts. I really like the relaxed geometry of the frame/fork. The 44/34/24 chainrings and the 32t big cassette gear help my old knees to get up these North Georgia hills. Aluminum fenders and lighter wheels are additions I hope to make soon. The bike weighs 26 1/2 pounds minus the rack.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  22. #2947
    Senior Member kehomer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
    Kehomer, fantastic job on that Stumpjumper!

    What tires are you using?
    Thank you. I was surprised at how well it turned out. The tires are Panaracer T-Servs 1.75". Great tires!

  23. #2948
    Senior Member kehomer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pathdoc View Post
    Great job, killer bicycle, love the color and the frame. Very nice.
    Thanks for the kind words!

  24. #2949
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kehomer View Post
    This bike is about 90% completed. It started out as a 1986 Stumpjumper Sport frame and fork I purchased a year ago. The paint is candy-orange powder. The components are a mix of new, NOS and refurbished used. I think the most distinctive things about the bike are the Shimano 105 7sp downtube shifters and the color. The shifters are mounted on brazed on posts. I really like the relaxed geometry of the frame/fork. The 44/34/24 chainrings and the 32t big cassette gear help my old knees to get up these North Georgia hills. Aluminum fenders and lighter wheels are additions I hope to make soon. The bike weighs 26 1/2 pounds minus the rack.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Oh man kehomer, that Stumpjumper is amazing! I've been wondering when we'd see your modified frame build, you had plenty of interest from your previous posting. I have to say that it was well worth the wait, yours is easily top 5, maybe even top 3 Stumpies that I've ever seen... it's just beautiful! I'm absolutely loving the brazed down tube shifters but even the little touches like the braided cable housing (my personal favorite) are just right!

    I'm curious what canti brake calipers are you running? That cable flare is about as wide as I've seen, I really dig how it looks!

    I'm going to pursue having shift mounts brazed on some future builds. It looks sharp and since I'm not a fan of bar end shifters, it's a great additional option for a drop bar build! I'd never considered adding the braze ons until I saw your previous posting... thanks for the inspiration!
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  25. #2950
    Senior Member kehomer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neo_pop_71 View Post
    Oh man kehomer, that Stumpjumper is amazing! I've been wondering when we'd see your modified frame build, you had plenty of interest from your previous posting. I have to say that it was well worth the wait, yours is easily top 5, maybe even top 3 Stumpies that I've ever seen... it's just beautiful! I'm absolutely loving the brazed down tube shifters but even the little touches like the braided cable housing (my personal favorite) are just right!

    I'm curious what canti brake calipers are you running? That cable flare is about as wide as I've seen, I really dig how it looks!

    I'm going to pursue having shift mounts brazed on some future builds. It looks sharp and since I'm not a fan of bar end shifters, it's a great additional option for a drop bar build! I'd never considered adding the braze ons until I saw your previous posting... thanks for the inspiration!
    I appreciate the good words! They mean a lot. The brake calipers are old Shimano BR-454 made in Japan, borrowed from another MT bike. I haven't ridden the bike much yet but anticipate that I may have to change out the Ichigear Pista drop bars for something more conventional. It is surprising, however that I can achieve a number of useful hand positions. I really like the bottom of the drops position however. Bike control is terrific and I have a more upright position than with conventional drops.

    So far, I really love this bike!

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