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  1. #276
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    my stem has a cable stop on it and my rear brake is a u brake under the chainstay, so i'm looking for either the "inline" kind or preferably something that goes into a cable stop
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

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  2. #277
    Senior Member
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    I wonder if these would work. Cheap enough that even if they don't work, you haven't thrown away a fortune.

    https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Produc...28_-1___202419

  3. #278
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    yeah i'd prefer something that goes into the cable stop itself, kinda like this

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEAMSSX-New-...item4608b2a20a


    these inline ones look pretty nice though
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jagwire-...item1e73a5ae06


    they're all cheap but if anyone has a specific brand/model and recommend them i'd love to hear it
    Last edited by frantik; 10-28-12 at 06:35 PM.
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  4. #279
    )) <> (( illwafer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarper3 View Post
    I am really liking the Tektro RL340's which I have on 2 of my bikes.

    At first I was skeptical as the Tektro R200A's had been my 'go to' levers.

    After trying the RL340's I now prefer them by a large margin.
    They just fit my hands better and feel 'right' for me. YMMV.


    this. exactly. except not by a large margin, but by some.

  5. #280
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by yarper3 View Post
    I decided to look for a bit lighter vintage mtb frame and switch the parts over from the Univega mtb I built up this week.
    (See earlier post)

    I picked up a prob 1989 or 90 Specialized Hardrock & it is considerably lighter.

    Totally dissembled the 23" Hardrock weighs:
    6.2 lbs for frame & 1.8 for fork for 8.0 lbs total, a full
    2 lbs lighter than Uni weighing in at 7.4 for frame & 2.6 for fork.

    I know the Hardrock was not one of their higher end frames and the sticker indicates this one was
    made in Taiwan & designed in the USA but the construction appears to be well done
    and the welds are very neatly done.


    As to the tubing on the Hardrock the stickers show 'custom grade CroMo'
    so I do not know if it is butted or not but I expect it is being so much lighter than the Uni which the tubing sticker shows 3 main tubes as CroMo but does not say butted.

    Makes me wonder how much lighter some of the higher end mtbs might be.


    I plan on transferring the parts over to the Hardrock.
    I really do not care for the magenta, white & purple
    'Miami Vice' style colors on it so I might have it powder coated or just rattle can it.


    Attachment 259117

    You'll need to get a white blazer to ride this bike, and make sure you haven't shaved in about three days.

  6. #281
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprayman View Post
    You'll need to get a white blazer to ride this bike, and make sure you haven't shaved in about three days.
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  7. #282
    Senior Member cooperryder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post

    Do you guys run barrel adjusters for the brakes somewhere or just adjust the brakes as needed when the time comes? Any recommendations for cheap brake cable barrel adjusters?

    Another thing I like about the Top Mount Cross Levers is they have a nice barrel adjuster.
    With one also on the cable hanger I have 2 places for adjustment.

  8. #283
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    saw this one with stem shifters over in the commuter forum.


    http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...0#post14902000
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

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  9. #284
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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    Cable adjusters - I used a front hanger with an adjuster on it. For the rear (I also have a u-brake) I just stuck a cheap barrel adjuster in the downtube housing stop. It's a bit snug but it works.

  10. #285
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    ^ thanks, i ordered the Jagwire "mickey" barrel adjusters that go in the cable stop yesterday
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

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  11. #286
    Senior Member peazweag's Avatar
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    88 hardrock hardrock.jpg
    1980 MIYATA 610

  12. #287
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    i finally got all my parts in today.. but when i went to put the drop bar in the quill stem, i found I can't get past the curve at the tops i'm not sure how much i can even spread this stem.. might have to find one with a removable faceplate to finish this off

    anybody recommend a "dirt drop" style stem with a 25.6 clamp diameter with removable faceplate?
    Last edited by frantik; 11-02-12 at 07:19 PM.
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  13. #288
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    Profile Boa is cheap and gets the job done.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  14. #289
    Senior Member due ruote's Avatar
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  15. #290
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    thanks.. that one is as ugly as it is cheap i wish i could use the nice Nitto stem i have but even after spreading the clamp i get to a point where the stem hits the flared drop and can't go any further. at least one person has trimmed the bar to solve this problem, but i'm gonna look for a suitable stem first...
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  16. #291
    Junior Member
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    There was someone on Ebay selling Salsa 26.0 stems with a 2 bolt faceplate.These aren't the "recall" stems, so you're safe. I have one that is about 100mm I use for my flat bars, but it doesn't have much rise. One option is to use a quill adapter and a threadless stem. I ended up going with a set of Nitto bars that don't have as much flare as the Woodchippers...an added plus is that they are similar to what came on MB-1s in 1987, so I got the right look down by using that particular bar/stem combo. I'm using a Nitto Dirt Drop stem...
    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    thanks.. that one is as ugly as it is cheap i wish i could use the nice Nitto stem i have but even after spreading the clamp i get to a point where the stem hits the flared drop and can't go any further. at least one person has trimmed the bar to solve this problem, but i'm gonna look for a suitable stem first...

  17. #292
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    thanks.. i think i'm going to go with the origin 8 "sport classique" stem (see thread, unless i can source something locally. i have a buddy who says he has a bunch of stems so i'm hoping he's got something at his shop

    and it turns out the Cane Creek levers i got are pretty much the same thing as the Tektro R200A levers.. there is even R200 stamped into the lever on the cane creek LOL. i could have probably saved myself $10 and gone with the tektros..oh well
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  18. #293
    Junior Member
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    Cane Creeks are made by Tektro...Where I'm at, I find it easier to find Cane Creeks than Tektros...Have you tried lubing the bars before threading them thru the stem? Just a light layer of lube that can be cleaned off later before you wrap the bars.I thought I read somewhere about making a wedge out of wood to hold open the stem clamp without damaging it...better than prying with a screwdriver...less chance of marring a nice Nitto stem...:-)

  19. #294
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    i made a mistake, it's a sakae stem.. still nice though. it did get a tiny bit gashed up but it's not really noticeable. i don't think i need to spread it any farther to get it on. it's the way the woodchipper is shaped; if it were a "normal" drop bar, it would fit fine. the stem needs to be turned a certain way to go around a curve. but i can't turn it that way because the bar hits them end of the stem. i've tried putting grease on the bar and the stem but it didn't help.

    I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...

    as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
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  20. #295
    Junior Member
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    Ya that what I did too...You are right in looking toward getting a stem with a removable faceplate.I have to figure out a way of posting a picture of my MB-1... :-)
    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    i made a mistake, it's a sakae stem.. still nice though. it did get a tiny bit gashed up but it's not really noticeable. i don't think i need to spread it any farther to get it on. it's the way the woodchipper is shaped; if it were a "normal" drop bar, it would fit fine. the stem needs to be turned a certain way to go around a curve. but i can't turn it that way because the bar hits them end of the stem. i've tried putting grease on the bar and the stem but it didn't help.

    I don't want to thrash the bar trying to get the stem on. it's already looking a lot less new. bar tape will fix that but still...

    as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though

  21. #296
    Senior Member Chris Chicago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    as far as cane creek vs tekro, i just ordered them online so i could have gone with the tektro/origin8 ones and saved $10. too late now though
    there are also xlc levers that you can find for a few bucks, maybe 5 less than tektros, but they are tektros. i have the 340 version

  22. #297
    Senior Member that_guy_zach's Avatar
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    I want to pick up more of these. They are 7 speed rear, friction front. Used the only set I had on a hybrid drop bar conversion.


  23. #298
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    Those shifters may not be the prettiest, but they work well.
    Quote Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
    There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
    RUSA #7498

  24. #299
    Riding Heaven's Highways: In Memoriam justfitme's Avatar
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    here it is.
    Got it for $100 in very stange form with mustache handlebars ... changed gearing, canti brakes to V, bar, 2 sets of levers, wheels to Tioga w/Deore, fork and headset to threadless , saddle....
    Lots of fun on single track.




  25. #300
    cs1
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    Senior Member cs1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justfitme View Post
    here it is.
    Got it for $100 in very stange form with mustache handlebars ... changed gearing, canti brakes to V, bar, 2 sets of levers, wheels to Tioga w/Deore, fork and headset to threadless , saddle....
    Lots of fun on single track.



    I really love those Eighties 2 tone paint jobs Specialized used. Gaudy is good! BTW, nice bike.
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
    1989 Raleigh Technium, 1989 Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper
    1984 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper and just way too many projects to list.

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