cobrabyte, that's admirable work. What kind of light is that?
Thank You! The light is a cheap SunLite brand I picked up at the LBS for around $10, it came with the AAA batteries so a decent value. I'm going to use rechargable batteries once these run out. I do plan on a dynamo hub light for my Kogswell build, and may upgrade this light too as the shorter days have me using it much more often. It provides a decent beam and is quite noticable to car drivers which is its main duty.
I love my dynamo light system. I use a Sanyo hub.
Hi, everyone ... love this thread. My winter bike is a drop-bar conversion as of last week. Last year, I rode it with its original bars. It's a 1988 Schwinn Impact with studded tires.
Anyway, I have a question. I'm planning to build a Gravel Grinder / distance touring bike from a 1993 Jamis Dakota frame and fork that I picked up for a good price. The frame size is 21.5" (seat tube c-t). The effective top tube measures 23.5 inch.
As a mountain bike, this would be too big. I am 5'8"
I'm wondering if it's going to be too big even to use as a gravel bike with drops. The frame is in great shape and made of Tange MTB double butted, and I had read somewhere that it's best to get a larger size if you are planning to convert a 26" MTB into a touring rig.
Just wondering if I ought to explore trading this frame for a smaller size or if it will work with some stem adjustments.
Any shorter guys on the thread who can chime in?
the 21.5" frame might be a hair big for you.. i'm 5'11" and my 22" frame is at the very limit of how big i'd like a mtb frame, even for city/touring riding
this article from 1983 about mtbs as "city bikes" popped up in the Univega thread... i think some of you guys might enjoy it http://books.google.com/books?id=mOI...nivega&f=false
Here's a picture of my 1988 Schwinn Impact winter bike. This will be the first year I've used it with drops. Forgive the half-wrapped handlebars. I'm planning to recycle some bar tape when I get new tape for my girlfriend's race bike.
This Procaliber is about the same size as your bike. The reach is a little long for me, however, I wanted to keep the Fisher stem. I could easily shorted the reach with a shorter stem.
[EDIT] Actually, it appears that the Procaliber is a size up from your bike. I think you'll be fine.
that is def a nice bike and i'm really surprised someone 5'8" could ride it, especially with that much seat post!
Enhanced legs. 34" cycling inseam.
1998 Mongoose Switchback dx. Needs a shorter stem.
Very nice photo. I like blue and brown contrast. Both complementary and clash.
Appreciate it, Spliff.
If it's 18" c-t on the seat tube, that's about 3.5" shorter than the seat tube on my Jamis. Top tube is more important to me.
Good news, though. I measured my winter bike frame, the Schwinn ... which I always knew was too big ... and it's about the same size as the Jamis. Maybe even a tad bigger. And I ride it comfortable although, flat-footed, that top tube gets a little more intimate that one might like ... haha ...
Has anyone here used Schwalbe Fat Franks on their MTB-to-drop-bar conversions? I am wondering if I want to go that route on my own.
^ Kenda K838 area nice/cheaper alternative to the fat franks.. plan on running them on my univega alpina (until i upgrade to something lighter and more supple
Talk to me about stems. I see all you have moonshot angled stems to get the tops up high enough with the short headtubes of MTB frames. I just picked this up today, think it will hack it? Would compact drops help? I have a pair of serviceable, but not very pretty tricolor brifters in the partsbin. For that matter, brifters on a MTB? It'd have to be double, but that's not a big deal. Even if I'm channelling YETI-era Tomac, I'm 100% ok with that.
Think this is enough rise to get drops on there? Compact drops maybe?
^ on that i'd be more concerned about the reach which is pretty long already.. depending on what bars you use, the cruising position will be pushed father out because you will be riding in the drops or on the hoods more than the cross bar
a bar with a compact drop or any bar not much extension before the drop would be better for that stem.
Hi... This idea is VERY cool... Question... can I buy any old mountain bike like this and install a new set of cantilever brakes on it? I.e. are the mounts on the 80's bikes the same spacing setup as the mounts on newer cross bikes that new cantilever brakes are designed for?