Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-13-12, 06:29 PM   #351
Bluelight
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott View Post
Great-looking build and pics, Bluelight! With the right frame size and accutrements, a casual glance might not reveal that these started off as mountain bikes.
Most people get blown away when I tell them that the bike is a vintage Sasquatch. The following question is usually "Isn't that a mountain bike??!" And all I say is 'yeup!' . Some have actually thought that it's a Rivendell of sorts, I take that as a great compliment.
Bluelight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-12, 06:50 PM   #352
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Bikes: too many
Posts: 26,627
cobrabyte, that's admirable work. What kind of light is that?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by noglider
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
noglider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-12, 07:03 PM   #353
cobrabyte
one life on two wheels
 
cobrabyte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes:
Posts: 2,556
Thank You! The light is a cheap SunLite brand I picked up at the LBS for around $10, it came with the AAA batteries so a decent value. I'm going to use rechargable batteries once these run out. I do plan on a dynamo hub light for my Kogswell build, and may upgrade this light too as the shorter days have me using it much more often. It provides a decent beam and is quite noticable to car drivers which is its main duty.
cobrabyte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-12, 09:44 PM   #354
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: West Village, New York City
Bikes: too many
Posts: 26,627
I love my dynamo light system. I use a Sanyo hub.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by noglider
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
noglider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 10:38 AM   #355
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Hi, everyone ... love this thread. My winter bike is a drop-bar conversion as of last week. Last year, I rode it with its original bars. It's a 1988 Schwinn Impact with studded tires.

Anyway, I have a question. I'm planning to build a Gravel Grinder / distance touring bike from a 1993 Jamis Dakota frame and fork that I picked up for a good price. The frame size is 21.5" (seat tube c-t). The effective top tube measures 23.5 inch.

As a mountain bike, this would be too big. I am 5'8"

I'm wondering if it's going to be too big even to use as a gravel bike with drops. The frame is in great shape and made of Tange MTB double butted, and I had read somewhere that it's best to get a larger size if you are planning to convert a 26" MTB into a touring rig.

Just wondering if I ought to explore trading this frame for a smaller size or if it will work with some stem adjustments.

Any shorter guys on the thread who can chime in?

Cheers,
Phil

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1395.jpg (94.7 KB, 115 views)
pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 10:43 AM   #356
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,966
the 21.5" frame might be a hair big for you.. i'm 5'11" and my 22" frame is at the very limit of how big i'd like a mtb frame, even for city/touring riding
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 11:13 AM   #357
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,966
this article from 1983 about mtbs as "city bikes" popped up in the Univega thread... i think some of you guys might enjoy it http://books.google.com/books?id=mOI...nivega&f=false
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 01:05 PM   #358
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Here's a picture of my 1988 Schwinn Impact winter bike. This will be the first year I've used it with drops. Forgive the half-wrapped handlebars. I'm planning to recycle some bar tape when I get new tape for my girlfriend's race bike.





Quote:
Originally Posted by pstake View Post
Hi, everyone ... love this thread. My winter bike is a drop-bar conversion as of last week. Last year, I rode it with its original bars. It's a 1988 Schwinn Impact with studded tires.

Anyway, I have a question. I'm planning to build a Gravel Grinder / distance touring bike from a 1993 Jamis Dakota frame and fork that I picked up for a good price. The frame size is 21.5" (seat tube c-t). The effective top tube measures 23.5 inch.

As a mountain bike, this would be too big. I am 5'8"

I'm wondering if it's going to be too big even to use as a gravel bike with drops. The frame is in great shape and made of Tange MTB double butted, and I had read somewhere that it's best to get a larger size if you are planning to convert a 26" MTB into a touring rig.

Just wondering if I ought to explore trading this frame for a smaller size or if it will work with some stem adjustments.

Any shorter guys on the thread who can chime in?

Cheers,
Phil

Attached Images
File Type: jpg photo (6).jpg (97.4 KB, 132 views)
pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 02:18 PM   #359
RFC
Senior Member
 
RFC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Bikes: many
Posts: 4,456
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstake View Post
Hi, everyone ... love this thread. My winter bike is a drop-bar conversion as of last week. Last year, I rode it with its original bars. It's a 1988 Schwinn Impact with studded tires.

Anyway, I have a question. I'm planning to build a Gravel Grinder / distance touring bike from a 1993 Jamis Dakota frame and fork that I picked up for a good price. The frame size is 21.5" (seat tube c-t). The effective top tube measures 23.5 inch.

As a mountain bike, this would be too big. I am 5'8"

I'm wondering if it's going to be too big even to use as a gravel bike with drops. The frame is in great shape and made of Tange MTB double butted, and I had read somewhere that it's best to get a larger size if you are planning to convert a 26" MTB into a touring rig.

Just wondering if I ought to explore trading this frame for a smaller size or if it will work with some stem adjustments.

Any shorter guys on the thread who can chime in?

Cheers,
Phil

It all depends on your body dimensions. I am 5'8", but half legs. It works fine on height and I still have a good deal of seat post. The reach, however, can be a challenge. This can be remedied by a no setback seat post and/or shorter stem. Also, with gravel/touring tires, the height should drop about 1." If you have a more normal build, as long as you can stand over it, you should be OK.

This Procaliber is about the same size as your bike. The reach is a little long for me, however, I wanted to keep the Fisher stem. I could easily shorted the reach with a shorter stem.

[EDIT] Actually, it appears that the Procaliber is a size up from your bike. I think you'll be fine.

RFC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 08:32 PM   #360
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Thanks, RFC ... I'm a little long legged for my height but still only about 30.5 inseam. I think I'm going to go for a size or two smaller.

Nnice Ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFC View Post
It all depends on your body dimensions. I am 5'8", but half legs. It works fine on height and I still have a good deal of seat post. The reach, however, can be a challenge. This can be remedied by a no setback seat post and/or shorter stem. Also, with gravel/touring tires, the height should drop about 1." If you have a more normal build, as long as you can stand over it, you should be OK.

This Procaliber is about the same size as your bike. The reach is a little long for me, however, I wanted to keep the Fisher stem. I could easily shorted the reach with a shorter stem.

[EDIT] Actually, it appears that the Procaliber is a size up from your bike. I think you'll be fine.

pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 08:36 PM   #361
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,966
that is def a nice bike and i'm really surprised someone 5'8" could ride it, especially with that much seat post!
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-12, 10:35 PM   #362
RFC
Senior Member
 
RFC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Bikes: many
Posts: 4,456
Enhanced legs. 34" cycling inseam.
RFC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-12, 08:41 AM   #363
Yo Spiff 
Carpe Velo
 
Yo Spiff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Trek 900, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '92 Schwinn Crosscut, '03 Diamondback Tandem, '94 Yokota Grizzly Peak
Posts: 2,508
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstake View Post
As a mountain bike, this would be too big. I am 5'8"


I'm 5'7" with short legs and I ride one a little shorter than what you are showing. If you don't have stumpy legs like me, that frame might fit decently. I have plenty of top tube clearance, but I had to do 3 handlebar swaps until I got the reach to the brakes close enough for my preference. Here's mine, as a point of reference:

Commuter scooter by Yo Spiff, on Flickr
__________________
2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, '92 Trek T100, 2000 Rans Tailwind
Yo Spiff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-12, 09:13 AM   #364
lieven
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 14
1998 Mongoose Switchback dx. Needs a shorter stem.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 300_9966B4.jpg (104.2 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg 300_9966B4_100.jpg (58.4 KB, 133 views)
lieven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-12, 09:22 AM   #365
RFC
Senior Member
 
RFC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Bikes: many
Posts: 4,456
Very nice photo. I like blue and brown contrast. Both complementary and clash.
RFC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-12, 09:38 AM   #366
due ruote 
Senior Member
 
due ruote's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 5,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_pop_71 View Post
Man, I love this bike, really great job on the build! It looks so different than anything available today. What happened to the stem you had when you previously posted this bike? I would prefer a slick Nitto stem but that's just my preference.
Thanks for the compliment. I agree about the stem - this one is a cheap Nashbar/Kalloy and doesn't measure up aesthetically to the quill (I think it was SR) that I had on before. The problem is, the Midge bars wouldn't even begin to go into a standard quill; not even close. A removable face plate is essential. I also needed the rise to get the position right. Now that I have figured out the length and rise with this economy version, I can keep my eyes open for something prettier, whatever that may be. I had a Profile Boa on it briefly and I wasn't crazy about the looks of that one either.
due ruote is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-12, 09:21 PM   #367
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Thanks that is helpful and good to know. Can I ask what your top tube and seat tube measure?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo Spiff View Post
I'm 5'7" with short legs and I ride one a little shorter than what you are showing. If you don't have stumpy legs like me, that frame might fit decently. I have plenty of top tube clearance, but I had to do 3 handlebar swaps until I got the reach to the brakes close enough for my preference. Here's mine, as a point of reference:

Commuter scooter by Yo Spiff, on Flickr
pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 09:02 AM   #368
Yo Spiff 
Carpe Velo
 
Yo Spiff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Trek 900, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '92 Schwinn Crosscut, '03 Diamondback Tandem, '94 Yokota Grizzly Peak
Posts: 2,508
Quote:
Originally Posted by pstake View Post
Thanks that is helpful and good to know. Can I ask what your top tube and seat tube measure?
I'll have to do measurements when I get home this evening. I think the seat tube is around 18".
__________________
2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, '92 Trek T100, 2000 Rans Tailwind
Yo Spiff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 02:06 PM   #369
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Appreciate it, Spliff.

If it's 18" c-t on the seat tube, that's about 3.5" shorter than the seat tube on my Jamis. Top tube is more important to me.

Good news, though. I measured my winter bike frame, the Schwinn ... which I always knew was too big ... and it's about the same size as the Jamis. Maybe even a tad bigger. And I ride it comfortable although, flat-footed, that top tube gets a little more intimate that one might like ... haha ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yo Spiff View Post
I'll have to do measurements when I get home this evening. I think the seat tube is around 18".
pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 03:37 PM   #370
Coreyk
A Fez full of Pez
 
Coreyk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Greenland-on-The-Mississippi
Bikes: 1978 Raleigh Competition GS, 1980 Raleigh DL-1, 2012 Bianchi Volpe
Posts: 203
Has anyone here used Schwalbe Fat Franks on their MTB-to-drop-bar conversions? I am wondering if I want to go that route on my own.

CoreyK
Coreyk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 03:58 PM   #371
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,966
^ Kenda K838 area nice/cheaper alternative to the fat franks.. plan on running them on my univega alpina (until i upgrade to something lighter and more supple
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 04:06 PM   #372
IthaDan 
Senior Member
 
IthaDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ithaca, NY
Bikes: Click on the #YOLO
Posts: 4,870
Talk to me about stems. I see all you have moonshot angled stems to get the tops up high enough with the short headtubes of MTB frames. I just picked this up today, think it will hack it? Would compact drops help? I have a pair of serviceable, but not very pretty tricolor brifters in the partsbin. For that matter, brifters on a MTB? It'd have to be double, but that's not a big deal. Even if I'm channelling YETI-era Tomac, I'm 100% ok with that.

Think this is enough rise to get drops on there? Compact drops maybe?


__________________

Shimano : Click :: Campy :: Snap :: SRAM : Bang
IthaDan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 04:24 PM   #373
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,966
^ on that i'd be more concerned about the reach which is pretty long already.. depending on what bars you use, the cruising position will be pushed father out because you will be riding in the drops or on the hoods more than the cross bar

a bar with a compact drop or any bar not much extension before the drop would be better for that stem.
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 06:01 PM   #374
Shutter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Toronto, Ontario, CANADA
Bikes: Vitus 992 x2, Miele, Cambio Rino, Rossin, Pinarello, CIOCC, Cannondale, Devinci
Posts: 415
Hi... This idea is VERY cool... Question... can I buy any old mountain bike like this and install a new set of cantilever brakes on it? I.e. are the mounts on the 80's bikes the same spacing setup as the mounts on newer cross bikes that new cantilever brakes are designed for?

thanks!
Shutter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-12, 06:11 PM   #375
pstake
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Nebraska
Bikes:
Posts: 75
Yup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shutter View Post
Hi... This idea is VERY cool... Question... can I buy any old mountain bike like this and install a new set of cantilever brakes on it? I.e. are the mounts on the 80's bikes the same spacing setup as the mounts on newer cross bikes that new cantilever brakes are designed for?

thanks!
pstake is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:29 AM.