Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 15197970)
too loose and you could loose that proprietary, no longer made, nut.
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Originally Posted by Doohickie
(Post 15197894)
The friction force on a Suntour Barcon is adjustable by tightening or loosening the screw on the right side. That is why there is a lock nut on the left side- to hold the friction force at the adjusted value.
Friction force required is very much a function of the derailleur. On my Nishiki I have Suntour Barcons and the are fairly "loose" (easy to shift). I have a modern-ish rear derailleur that is designed for indexed shifting. I also have Suntour Barcons on my '83 Raleigh Super Course. The RD is a Suntour Cyclone and it requires much more friction force to hold it in place, so I have the same issue you're having- a little too tight feeling. I'm considering swapping out the RD and see if it gets better (the bike came with a Suntour aRX RD; I may put that on). But regarding your concern about how much friction you need to hold position, I think that is driven by the leverage in the parallelogram of the RD and the spring force of the RD. If I get around to changing out the RD on my Super Course and get a better feel, I'll let you know. rd is a suntour vxgt
Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 15197970)
If you are not a tool hound like me, any shop should be able to give it a quick check and straighten it for a modest cost.
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Originally Posted by Doohickie
(Post 15197894)
The friction force on a Suntour Barcon is adjustable by tightening or loosening the screw on the right side. That is why there is a lock nut on the left side- to hold the friction force at the adjusted value.
Friction force required is very much a function of the derailleur. On my Nishiki I have Suntour Barcons and the are fairly "loose" (easy to shift). I have a modern-ish rear derailleur that is designed for indexed shifting. I also have Suntour Barcons on my '83 Raleigh Super Course. The RD is a Suntour Cyclone and it requires much more friction force to hold it in place, so I have the same issue you're having- a little too tight feeling. I'm considering swapping out the RD and see if it gets better (the bike came with a Suntour aRX RD; I may put that on). But regarding your concern about how much friction you need to hold position, I think that is driven by the leverage in the parallelogram of the RD and the spring force of the RD. If I get around to changing out the RD on my Super Course and get a better feel, I'll let you know. The slickest set up I am running is a Suntour Barcon with a SRAM X5... the action is freakishly light and the X5 is there to handle what are some extreme gearing ranges on my touring bikes. It is a nice mix of vintage and modern. |
Originally Posted by Chris Chicago
(Post 15198466)
rd is a suntour vxgt |
Originally Posted by KOBE
(Post 15196938)
I know it's not quite vintage yet (1998), but I never knew Rivendell made these. One just went for $2500 on the auction site, so it at least held it's value.
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...e#.UQKiY_K8CSo http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8171/8...e3724fe9_b.jpg |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 15197672)
Ah, but there's a reason the front mudflap goes (or should go) that low. ;)
I know, I know I need a pic but the bike is at work waiting for the weather to warm up so I can commute again. and I keep forgetting to take a pic. royal |
I wish schwalbe still made those tires :(
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My buddy has a very similar Rivendell to that beauty on page 33... it gets so much attention from other riders (and people in general) that he's taken to calling the attention "Rivendrool". Also, let's not forget the old line from elementary school "Look with your eyes and not with your hands" 'cuz people are always leaving finger prints and laying their hands all over the bike
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Originally Posted by neo_pop_71
(Post 15200024)
..
Rivendell.... "look with your eyes and not with your hands" 'cuz people are always leaving finger prints and laying their hands all over the bike |
I never thought bicycles were meant to be heirlooms. Although if I had a bona fide WTB Phoenix you can bet your backside it'd become one.....
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Did Motobecane make any mountain bikes, before the big DT logo'd name revival? I bet if they had, they'd be something to behold. If I ever get into frame building ( a dream for much of my adult life) I would LOVE to build a mtb/atb frame in the style of my mid 70's Grand Record. Gold striped Nervex lugs, red/black paint, and a TA triple. It would have bullmoose bars of course, and cantilever brakes wide enough to act as air brakes, hehe.,,,,BD
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Just did this Bianchi Grizzly conversion this weekend:
Before: http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/9961/grizzly023.jpg After: http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5814/006yvy.jpg |
Mmm... Grizzly.
My favorite flavor mtb :) How about some close ups? |
Originally Posted by Bone Machine
(Post 15203640)
Just did this Bianchi Grizzly conversion this weekend:
Before: http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/9961/grizzly023.jpg After: http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5814/006yvy.jpg |
Is that a Feinwerkbau or Pardini? I like! :thumb: |
Took my Rockhopper out for a ride today before I set it up for my tour next month. Here's some pics of the current setup:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8...8d05615a_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8082/8...7493c637_b.jpg And since pictures are fun, here's some pics of the new stuff going on. Starting up the new build this afternoon. Swapping out the WTB dirtdrops for Nitto Noodle bars, adding a rear rack and panniers, a second bottle cage, toe clips & straps, and fenders. I may not install the fenders until the rainy season starts here in the summer. We barely gat a few drops during this time of year. I decided on these Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fenders since both the seatstay and chainstay bridge are threaded for this type of fender intallation: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8055/8...4a553223_o.jpg Nitto Noodles: (I also couldn't resist the cool blue NOS Nitto stem, but I won't be using that for this build.) http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8...9401fa90_z.jpg Touring gear: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8341/8...552f065c_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8226/8...92dd83da_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8066/8...5c0ac1c5_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8360/8...02fa392d_b.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8213/8...072a001f_z.jpg |
^^sweet!
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Cut over 2 pounds off my Cimmaron by swapping out wheels and tires. As pictured, it weighed in at 28.8 pounds. Wheels and 7 speed came from Deseret Industries (Mormon version of Goodwill) for $4.
Took it out for a shake out ride, up the big freakin hill by city hall. I really like that bike. My Univega Alpina Pro weighed in at 27.4 pounds. I believe the tires, saddle and pedals on the Univega are lighter weight. And the Univega has 1.25 inch tires, vs 1.5 inch. Components are almost identical. Of course, the Univega has an 18 1/2 inch frame, and the Schwinn has a 21 inch frame (I need to double check that). http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8...28354537_b.jpg I need to clean that back porch at the workshop. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8502/8...f6fcf546_b.jpg bill |
Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 15204997)
Cut over 2 pounds off my Cimmaron by swapping out wheels and tires.
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The wheels are Weinmann rims with Shimano STX/Parallax hubs. They have 6/7 speed freehub, came with a cassette, that is working just fine. The former wheels were the original anodized rims with Suntour XC hubs (freewheel rear).
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Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 15205457)
The wheels are Weinmann rims with Shimano STX/Parallax hubs. They have 6/7 speed freehub, came with a cassette, that is working just fine. The former wheels were the original anodized rims with Suntour XC hubs (freewheel rear).
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/6...cimarronsm.jpg I've been thinking about getting a lighter weight wheelset for mine. Nashbar had a good deal on a 26" Vuelta Zerolite 24-spoke wheelset a little bit ago. The rear is spaced to 135 and I'm not sure how much weight they would cut though, someone just posted a build with them in the Vintage MTB thread recently. Edit: Ah, my bad, with those Biopace chainrings, XC hubs, hard anodized rims, it sounds like yours is probably an 86 with the 85 forest green frame color? http://mombat.org/Schwinn_Specs.htm |
Originally Posted by wrk101
(Post 15205457)
The wheels are Weinmann rims with Shimano STX/Parallax hubs. They have 6/7 speed freehub, came with a cassette, that is working just fine. The former wheels were the original anodized rims with Suntour XC hubs (freewheel rear).
I recently weighed my drop bar conversion on bathroom scale.. with lights it was 30-31lbs. Losing 2lbs would put it right around where yours is. I need a different cassette with more closely spaced gears because right now there is really only one gear I use regularly. I'm tempted to convert it to single speed for maximum weight savings, though a 1x7 with a more suitably geared cassette is also pretty appealing. Today I was hanging out with some pedicab drivers after the event we worked and the guys were really interested in Univega drop bar conversion... they liked the under chainstay brake and dark chrome finish the most. People who know bikes are often asking me "what kind of bike is that" :D |
On the year of my bike, it is a Cimmaron LE, not the Cimmaron model, hence the painted fork. I'll double check the headbadge, its either a 1987 or a 1988.
On slicks, I usually go with 1.25 inch wide tires. Its as narrow as it gets. I have a set of 1.25 Nashbar slicks (346grams) on my wife's bike, and I have a set of Forte Metro K 1.25 street tires (340grams and they are not slicks) on my Univega. Here are the tires (607 grams). I used these as they were the only ones I had. They are not slicks, rather they are road tires. I tend to load up on tires when there is a good sale. I like the Panaracer brand (heck, I like Panasonic bikes too). These were a deal on Nashbar a while back. I see Nashbar has them again for $9.99. If I go to the Nashbar slicks, I would shave almost 1 1/2 pounds off the bike, pretty substantial. On the wheels, they were just a thrift store find. They were cheap ($4), had STX hubs, 7 speed cassette, and were drilled for presta valves (my preference). The original wheelset on my Cimmaron were drilled for Shraeder valves. Based on the tire weights above, I'll probably swap out the Panaracers for the Fortes on the Univega, and get the weight of the Cimmaron down to about 27 to 27.5 pounds. Might do something on pedals later, and that saddle belongs on my Trek 620 touring bike, so I will lighten it up a tad more. 27 pounds is probably it. http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8093/8...ea589147_b.jpg As you can see, I am using all of my gears. Its a combination of motor (lack of) and a serious kickass hill I just climbed getting to this picture location. Forte Metro K, on sale, but not a terrific price: http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...400904__400904 I use a bicycle scale to weigh bikes, much more accurate than the bathroom scale. I suspend it in a doorway in my workshop. I used to use one of those $5 ebay hanging scales, they work great as well: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8054/8...617eea5f_c.jpg Here's a close up of the weight on the Univega. It has the lighter weight tires, modern wheels (another garage sale find), seven speed cassette, lighter racing saddle, but it does have a rear rack. I think you could shoot for a similar weight out of yours. In 500+ bikes rehabbed and owned, I have never bought a new wheel. And with about 100 extra wheels in inventory right now, I don't see a need for buying new anytime soon! http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8...c43efb4e_c.jpg Epilogue: I got it down to 25.94 pounds, by swapping wheels from the Univega Alpina Pro, and putting on a light weight saddle. I could save another half pound or so by installing light weight pedals. Bike still has much of its original parts: seat post, stem, derailleurs, crankset. A stock Cimmaron starts at 29 pounds (many of those catalog weights are without saddle or pedals). Getting it under 25 would take replacement of a lot of parts. There's only so much you can shave off when you start with a relatively heavy frame. |
Originally Posted by cobrabyte
(Post 15204764)
Took my Rockhopper out for a ride today before I set it up for my tour next month. Here's some pics of the current setup:
And since pictures are fun, here's some pics of the new stuff going on. Starting up the new build this afternoon. Swapping out the WTB dirtdrops for Nitto Noodle bars, adding a rear rack and panniers, a second bottle cage, toe clips & straps, and fenders. I may not install the fenders until the rainy season starts here in the summer. We barely gat a few drops during this time of year. I decided on these Gilles Berthoud stainless steel fenders since both the seatstay and chainstay bridge are threaded for this type of fender intallation: |
Originally Posted by cooperryder
(Post 15207539)
I really like the look of your Rockhopper and look forward to pics with the new bars , etc.
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