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  1. #1126
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Those Dia Compe hangars are worth the price of admission as they are very well made and righteously stiff which really helps improve braking.

  2. #1127
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    I had considered a stem-mounted cable hanger, but I saw your conversion a few pages back with the cable run through the stem and must have ignored the cross levers. I guess I'll have to stop by the co-op tomorrow and see what they have lying around.

    After my bar-end shifter pods arrive on Monday, I should be ready to finish sewing it all up. Looking forward to that first ride!
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  3. #1128
    rain dog mainstreetexile's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by striknein View Post
    I had considered a stem-mounted cable hanger, but I saw your conversion a few pages back with the cable run through the stem and must have ignored the cross levers. I guess I'll have to stop by the co-op tomorrow and see what they have lying around.

    After my bar-end shifter pods arrive on Monday, I should be ready to finish sewing it all up. Looking forward to that first ride!
    I've found that the headset-mounted cable stops work best for most scenarios. The sunlite ones aren't the flashiest but they are cheap, especially if you already have an order going in with Niagara cycles since they're only $1.68. I picked up a handful of them last time I did a niagara cycles order:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5KXS/





    Edit: should've read the rest of the posts, looks like some other people beat me to it! Regardless, +1 for those, and there's the link.

  4. #1129
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    +10 Found it finally, $1.68 at Niagara.

    As usual, navigating the Niagara site is a major PITA.

    http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ducts_id=12341


    +1 I tend to fill out orders at Niagara with small parts like these cable hangers, seat post clamp bolts, chain ring bolts, loose ball bearings, etc. (free shipping for $100+)

  5. #1130
    Senior Member
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    If style and vintage matters, find yourself an old WTB:

    Seek: Early 80's Mountain Goat Bar/Stem Combo.

  6. #1131
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    ^ pretty baller
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

    Join the Chainstay Brake Mafia!

  7. #1132
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    Thanks,
    I love that bike.

    These are pretty cool also and can be found with a little effort. Old Diacompe stamped Ritchey:



    No offense to the hanger posted up above but it looks like a $1.98 hanger. With limited space in the garage wouldn't you want something era correct and pretty?

    The details make the outfit.
    Last edited by Aemmer; 03-03-13 at 09:28 AM.
    Seek: Early 80's Mountain Goat Bar/Stem Combo.

  8. #1133
    Carpe Velo Yo Spiff's Avatar
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    I seem to be leaning toward V-brakes for my conversions, they work better with the levers I like than cantis do.


    '92 Schwinn Crosscut by Yo Spiff, on Flickr
    2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '88 Trek 900, '92 Trek T100, 2000 Rans Tailwind

  9. #1134
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    If style and vintage matters, find yourself an old WTB:

    Hey T.,

    We would love to have some vintage WTB stuff but you keep buying it all up!!!

    Oh and by the way... now that you're done building up the bike, I'd like to have my Ritchey back please, thanks!

    -D-
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  10. #1135
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    Ha,
    i am just a pawn in the WTB game.

    I do on the other hand have a new Ritchey project coming in the mail. Something a little more to the likes of this forum.

    And that old blue bike is still at the top of my list for favorite to ride.
    Last edited by Aemmer; 03-03-13 at 12:04 PM.
    Seek: Early 80's Mountain Goat Bar/Stem Combo.

  11. #1136
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    I haven't found anything I like as much as the through-the-stem setups myself. When routing with drop bars, I usually wrap the brake housing along the back of the bar, and then have it taped up to near the clamp with the housing coming out almost on top of the bar, then up and down into the stem. It creates a nice, smooth bend on my bike.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  12. #1137
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely View Post
    I haven't found anything I like as much as the through-the-stem setups myself. When routing with drop bars, I usually wrap the brake housing along the back of the bar, and then have it taped up to near the clamp with the housing coming out almost on top of the bar, then up and down into the stem. It creates a nice, smooth bend on my bike.
    Seely, you and I think alike, that is exactly how I routed the Odyssey braided housing on my Soma Sparrow bars (pictured on the previous page). That has been the best set up on a few different bars but definitely on dirt drop bars.
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  13. #1138
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    Ha,
    i am just a pawn in the WTB game.

    I do on the other hand have a new Ritchey project coming in the mail. Something a little more to the likes of this forum.

    And that old blue bike is still at the top of my list for favorite to ride.
    I'd like to see that build... "old blue" is about as tasty as a dirt drop bike could possibly be in my opinion. It's pretty hard to beat a fillet brazed Ritchey frame all decked out in vintage WTB dirt drop components!!! I'd like to see you top "old blue" and somehow or someway I believe you probably have the parts stash to pull it off!
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  14. #1139
    Senior Member
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    I don't even know what it is, but it's got Tourney derailleurs, SL-BS64 shifters, Tektro levers, Ritchey headset, 203mm XT rotor, CX75 caliper, Nexus dynohub, Brooks Flyer, Kenda Kross tires, and a Dimension 700c cross fork


    0228131725.jpg
    Last edited by Taxi Rob; 03-03-13 at 07:49 PM.
    1985 Nishiki Century/198? Miyata 610/19?? Omega 12/198? Univega Alpina Pro/198? Unknown MTB/1991 Koga-Miyata Randonneur Alloy/1996 GT Rage/199? DB "Frankencross"

  15. #1140
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    interesting build up of an old school MTB with new parts... that frame's got the chainstay brakes which puts it solidly in the late 80s..
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

    Join the Chainstay Brake Mafia!

  16. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    interesting build up of an old school MTB with new parts... that frame's got the chainstay brakes which puts it solidly in the late 80s..
    Looking back through this thread, I came across a photo of an Ibis Avion that shares many details. This came sans decals of any kind, so I've been building blind. Current weight without u-lock: 34.5 lbs. I think most of it is in the wheels and fork. I'm going with a bigger crankset for the street, and wired lighting. Ultimately gonna powdercoat it army green, as the chrome down low is getting pretty sketchy.
    Last edited by Taxi Rob; 03-04-13 at 05:45 PM. Reason: spelling
    1985 Nishiki Century/198? Miyata 610/19?? Omega 12/198? Univega Alpina Pro/198? Unknown MTB/1991 Koga-Miyata Randonneur Alloy/1996 GT Rage/199? DB "Frankencross"

  17. #1142
    Senior Member Chris_in_Miami's Avatar
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    ^^ The chrome mystery bike looks a bit like a friend's Ross Mt. Whitney, but the seatstay treatment make yours look like a higher level of quality.


  18. #1143
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    ^ that front caliper looks scary thin
    1986 Diamondback Apex ~ 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX ~ 1989 Jamis Dakar ~ 1989 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp
    1993 Trek 8300 Composite ~ 1993 Diamondback Axis Team Titanium ~ 1995 Diamondback Apex

    Join the Chainstay Brake Mafia!

  19. #1144
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    Finished this last night. My 9 year old son has been asking for a road bike for about 1.5 years(since he was 7.5). I watched craigslist for about 6 months with no luck. Decided to do a rigid mtb conversion. I found this ($20) about a year ago and switched out the knobby tires ($40) he road it for about a year as a flat bar. Spent an additional $2 at the co-op for the friction thumb shifter, everything else was out of the parts box. it is a 1x6, 24 inch tires, 12 inch frame. Schwinn Thrasher.
    IMGP7217_zps7dab39d4.jpg

  20. #1145
    Senior Member Bikedued's Avatar
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    What that bike needs is a three piece BB conversion, and an alloy crank. Awesome work though!,,,,BD

  21. #1146
    Senior Member neo_pop_71's Avatar
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    I agree with BD, super simple install (no special tools needed) and a standard English thread bottom bracket (new or your co-op maybe). I bet you have a spare square taper crank in your parts stash

    http://www.treefortbikes.com/product...n-to-Euro.html

    -and-

    http://www.treefortbikes.com/cat/0/7...222347288___90

    The cool thing about Tree Fort is they'll price match any online price. Good luck!

    -D-
    I'd rather add more life to my years, than years to my life.

  22. #1147
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    I may do that. That is cheap.

  23. #1148
    Senior Member jdefran's Avatar
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    Is there a preferred/desired geometry of a vintage mountain bike when doing these conversions? So far it seems 'not so slack' angles is one element. Fitting a bike by top tube is another. Honestly, for me, I feel like I have to build the bike to see how it handles to understand the geometry.
    Quote Originally Posted by Cache View Post
    And who doesn't have space for a folding bike??

  24. #1149
    Goes to 11. striknein's Avatar
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    Depends on your use case. I wanted a little more trail because I plan to ride with the front end loaded, and the shorter stem compensates for the more sluggish steering. Others might prefer more aggressive geometry for bombing paths or singletrack.

    You'll never really know for sure how a bike's going to ride until it's built, but ST/HT angles can give some clues about ride characteristics.
    Quote Originally Posted by Nagrom_ View Post
    I actually just run calipers. Levers are for scrubs.

  25. #1150
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdefran View Post
    Is there a preferred/desired geometry of a vintage mountain bike when doing these conversions? So far it seems 'not so slack' angles is one element. Fitting a bike by top tube is another. Honestly, for me, I feel like I have to build the bike to see how it handles to understand the geometry.
    It seems most of the builds here lean toward the more slack end of the spectrum. I like the long wheelbase and slack angles for stability. Its good for light off road touring and riding loaded (the bike, and me).
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

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