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  1. #126
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by himespau View Post
    One thing to keep in mind is that mtbs often have a longer top tube than a road bike so when you put on drop bars it extends the reach even more. A somewhat tall stem, lots of seatpost, and a frame that's a size or two small are what made it work for me.
    +100 You can see quite a bit of seat post on mine. My MTB has an 18 inch frame, whereas my racing bikes tend to be 56cm (22 inch). I tried a 19.5 inch MTB once. I really thought it was going to fit. But the long top tube, forget it. On my 18 inch Univega, the TT is just a tad short, so the additional length with drops is great. On my 18 inch Trek, the TT is longer. We'll have to see how drops turn out.

    Cantis are an easier choice brakes wise.
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  2. #127
    one life on two wheels cobrabyte's Avatar
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    Here's a few shots of my mid-80's Specialized Rockhopper with WTB dirt drop bars. A project that is very close to completion but I keep setting it aside for other projects...I need to get on that lol



  3. #128
    7-speed doomsday prepper ThermionicScott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by himespau View Post
    One thing to keep in mind is that mtbs often have a longer top tube than a road bike so when you put on drop bars it extends the reach even more. A somewhat tall stem, lots of seatpost, and a frame that's a size or two small are what made it work for me.
    The way I think about this is that an MTB will generally have a much higher bottom bracket than a road bike, resulting in a shorter seat tube, relative to everything else. My 20.5" Diamondback fits much the same as my 22" Bianchi Eros, for example.
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  4. #129
    one life on two wheels cobrabyte's Avatar
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    Slack angles have a part in fit as well.

  5. #130
    Senior Member not_jason's Avatar
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    Well, let's start with this: I'm six feet tall and I ride a 58cm road bike, comfortably. What do you think would be a suitable size in a mountain bike for drop bar conversion? Most of what I ever seem to come across is under 20".

  6. #131
    Senior Member himespau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by not_jason View Post
    Well, let's start with this: I'm six feet tall and I ride a 58cm road bike, comfortably. What do you think would be a suitable size in a mountain bike for drop bar conversion? Most of what I ever seem to come across is under 20".
    I'm 6'2 or 6'3 and my 22" frame seems small. Not just because of the 8 or so inches (maybe 10-11 haven't looked recently) of exposed seatpost, but also the 140 mm stem. Now if I was more flexible and could handle a stem that was lower I probably wouldn't need one so long, but I have only a 2-3 inch drop at most from the saddle to the bars and a stem that tall gets pushed back rather far toward the seat due to headtube angle.

    I am a bit oddly proportioned and have long monkey arms though.
    Last edited by himespau; 07-05-12 at 07:58 PM.
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  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post

    I've got shallow drop bars with cable grooves and Tektro aero levers. I could fit V-brakes or canti's - which would work best with those levers?

    I already have NOS indexed 7 speed stem shifters and although I'd probably prefer barcons, this is a "zero-budget" build so to those who use stem shifters with this set-up, are they OK?
    Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.

    I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
    Quote Originally Posted by M_S View Post
    ..... but at the end of the day we're all just dorks riding around on bicycles, right?

  8. #133
    Senior Member himespau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
    Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.
    That was my experience as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
    I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
    It depends on how tall your adapter is. I had a Soma Hi Rise adapter that didn't have any problems, but I had maybe 6" of adapter showing. Then I switched to using Kelly Take Offs which are expensive (and many people find them ugly), but are great in that they put the downtube shift levers right at your fingertips if you're on the hoods or tops. Not so easy to use from the drops though. Still, throw some interrupter brake levers on the tops and the Kelly's and you've got a bomb proof commuter with lots of functional hand positions for riding upright in traffic or getting more aero if you want.
    Punctuation is important. It's the difference between "I helped my uncle, Jack, off a horse" and "I helped my uncle Jack off a horse"


  9. #134
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    I LOVE the v-brake set up with Tektros...it's not terribly expensive, it's more stopping power than cantis and they're easier to set up. If you aren't going brifters or fenders, this is by far the best approach IMO.










  10. #135
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
    I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
    i'm still wondering if someone has used downtube shifters. you could use the older band-type bosses to add to a mtb w/o them
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  11. #136
    Senior Member clasher's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantik View Post
    i'm still wondering if someone has used downtube shifters. you could use the older band-type bosses to add to a mtb w/o them
    I didn't think to even take pictures of it but a former housemate wanted a solid bicycle so I built her a late 80s Kona Fire Mountain (i think). It got a pair of band shifters for downtube ones instead of stems shifters I built for another friend... this one was a wicked 90s fluorescent pink mtb that got drop bars and all the goodies for loaded touring. Someone should made a stem spacer with downtube mounts on them, certainly that can't be any more obnoxious than stem shifters.

  12. #137
    Senior Member not_jason's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
    What is that shifter and where can I get them? If they can be gotten cheap enough, it seems like a good brifter alternative on budget builds. Looks fantastic.

  13. #138
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    Suntour Commands...I'm not thrilled with them, though I'm picky and spoiled by Campagnolo perfection. If I did the build again I'd have used brifters or maybe even the dread barcons.

    They usually sell 75-100ish in decent shape, so while not brifter price, they aren't truly budget either.

  14. #139
    Chainstay Brake Mafia
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    Quote Originally Posted by clasher View Post
    I didn't think to even take pictures of it but a former housemate wanted a solid bicycle so I built her a late 80s Kona Fire Mountain (i think). It got a pair of band shifters for downtube ones instead of stems shifters I built for another friend... this one was a wicked 90s fluorescent pink mtb that got drop bars and all the goodies for loaded touring. Someone should made a stem spacer with downtube mounts on them, certainly that can't be any more obnoxious than stem shifters.
    aww too bad u didn't take a pic. i also wonder about thumb shifters on drops.. would have to widen the band but i bet u could jimmy one one a frankenbuild
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  15. #140
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by not_jason View Post
    What is that shifter and where can I get them? If they can be gotten cheap enough, it seems like a good brifter alternative on budget builds. Looks fantastic.
    As stated, these are Suntour Command Shifters which do fetch as much as a set of new indexed bar end shifters... I have a set I am saving for some future project and they are not a commonly found part and ergonomically, they are an excellent design.

  16. #141
    RFC
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    Senior Member RFC's Avatar
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    I have to admit that I like canti's over V-Brakes. I have had both and find the V-Brake tolerances to be much narrower than canti's. As a result, I have converted most of my applicable bikes to canti's. Yes, canti's are a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, not at all bad. At the end of the day, both are fine and workable.

  17. #142
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    As stated, these are Suntour Command Shifters which do fetch as much as a set of new indexed bar end shifters... I have a set I am saving for some future project and they are not a commonly found part and ergonomically, they are an excellent design.
    Ergonomically they are fantastic, you can easily shift from the drops, hoods or even flats. As far as shifting, it's chunky, not accurate indexing and the friction isn't really friction. I've heard that you can remove some bearings inside them for true friction shifting. I would not recommend them and will likely replace these at some point.

    Quote Originally Posted by RFC View Post
    I have to admit that I like canti's over V-Brakes. I have had both and find the V-Brake tolerances to be much narrower than canti's. As a result, I have converted most of my applicable bikes to canti's. Yes, canti's are a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, not at all bad. At the end of the day, both are fine and workable.
    They each have their place, but on a bike like this, I really like the v-brakes. I'd like to try some mini-vs at some point, preferably the Pauls.

  18. #143
    Senior Member Oldpeddaller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
    Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.

    I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
    Thanks, that's exactly the info I was looking for!
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  19. #144
    Senior Member Oldpeddaller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
    I LOVE the v-brake set up with Tektros...it's not terribly expensive, it's more stopping power than cantis and they're easier to set up. If you aren't going brifters or fenders, this is by far the best approach IMO.









    Thanks Aaron - I think that maybe sub consciously it may have been your bike that planted this seed of an idea in my feeble mind!
    Oldpeddaller - The older I get, the better I used to be !!!" ***** If at first you don't succeed - hit it with a hammer.

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  20. #145
    Senior Member Oldpeddaller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by himespau View Post
    It depends on the tektro levers, but most likely it's going to be cantilevers. With most V-brakes you'll need a travel agent of some sort and you said this was to be a no budget build.
    Ah, that's a point - I guess that would modify the amount of cable pull - simple and straightforward it is, then!
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  21. #146
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post
    Thanks Aaron - I think that maybe sub consciously it may have been your bike that planted this seed of an idea in my feeble mind!
    For what it's worth, I think it's a better, easier set up than cantis and it works very well. I was really happy about how that part of the bike worked out. The commands, not so much. I understand why suntour died in the market.

  22. #147
    Senior Member Captain Blight's Avatar
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    Oh, bite yer tongue! I got two bikes set up with Command Shift, both of them Treks. The 560 has the indexed ones and they work flawlessly. The trick to setting them up is to let the housings compress down for a few rides and then adjust the cable tension for a really good crisp 3-4 downshift. Everything else then falls into line. Mind you, you also need to have everything else matched properly, which I suspect you do.

    My 616 has friction style, they came to me with the ball detent already removed, and they work quite well over 8 gears in back. So if you don't want yours, let me know and I'll gladly buy them. Far and away my favorite shifters.
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  23. #148
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    Capt., I think that's part of the issue...deore rear dérailleur. I might shift to suntour and see if that helps. My lbs guys all assured me it wouldn't help much. If the friction mode worked, it would be ok. I probably will switch out and you're first to know!

  24. #149
    Senior Member Captain Blight's Avatar
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    Ohhhhh... If you're not using a later Suntour mech, that's the problem right there. Try one of the various XC models, a Pro by preference, with a 4-prong Winner. That should clear it up. FWIW I don't think Winner freewheels shift very well except in index mode. Somewhere in the forum archives, there's a Rosetta Stone with the info needed to build a Hyperglide cassette with Suntour index spacing. That would be handy to have. It would be too much hassle, but the Command Shifters are just *so* nice.
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  25. #150
    Fat Guy on a Little Bike KonAaron Snake's Avatar
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    I'll give it a shot, but to be honest I've ridden commands with the xc pro and freewheel and thought they had the same issue. My cassette was spaced correctly, so it shouldn't be a problem. If the friction mode worked, it would be fine.

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