Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

User Tag List
Bicycle Addict, TireLever-07

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-05-12, 02:38 PM   #126
wrk101
DRF aka Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
 
wrk101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: The NC Mountains
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue, 87 Cimarron, 14 frame school custom, 73 Paramount
Posts: 19,974
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by himespau View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that mtbs often have a longer top tube than a road bike so when you put on drop bars it extends the reach even more. A somewhat tall stem, lots of seatpost, and a frame that's a size or two small are what made it work for me.
+100 You can see quite a bit of seat post on mine. My MTB has an 18 inch frame, whereas my racing bikes tend to be 56cm (22 inch). I tried a 19.5 inch MTB once. I really thought it was going to fit. But the long top tube, forget it. On my 18 inch Univega, the TT is just a tad short, so the additional length with drops is great. On my 18 inch Trek, the TT is longer. We'll have to see how drops turn out.

Cantis are an easier choice brakes wise.
__________________
See my vintage steel bike tribute page on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/BillsVintageSteelBikes
wrk101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 04:51 PM   #127
cobrabyte
one life on two wheels
 
cobrabyte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes:
Posts: 2,556
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Here's a few shots of my mid-80's Specialized Rockhopper with WTB dirt drop bars. A project that is very close to completion but I keep setting it aside for other projects...I need to get on that lol


cobrabyte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 05:55 PM   #128
ThermionicScott 
Gratuitous glib and snark
 
ThermionicScott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers)
Posts: 14,093
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 417 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by himespau View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that mtbs often have a longer top tube than a road bike so when you put on drop bars it extends the reach even more. A somewhat tall stem, lots of seatpost, and a frame that's a size or two small are what made it work for me.
The way I think about this is that an MTB will generally have a much higher bottom bracket than a road bike, resulting in a shorter seat tube, relative to everything else. My 20.5" Diamondback fits much the same as my 22" Bianchi Eros, for example.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chandltp View Post
There's no such thing as too far.. just lack of time
RUSA #7498
ThermionicScott is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 06:19 PM   #129
cobrabyte
one life on two wheels
 
cobrabyte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes:
Posts: 2,556
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Slack angles have a part in fit as well.
cobrabyte is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 07:02 PM   #130
not_jason
Senior Member
 
not_jason's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Maine
Bikes: '85 Univega Safari-Ten (fixed), '84 Univega Supra-Sport, '85 Univega Gran Turismo, '86 Bianch Giro, '93 Cannondale R300, '68 Raleigh Gran-Prix (S3X fixed), '74 Schwinn Sprint (fixed), '5? Raleigh Lenton, '73 Raleigh Sprite, '36 Three Spires... etc.
Posts: 294
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Well, let's start with this: I'm six feet tall and I ride a 58cm road bike, comfortably. What do you think would be a suitable size in a mountain bike for drop bar conversion? Most of what I ever seem to come across is under 20".
not_jason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 07:43 PM   #131
himespau 
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Bikes:
Posts: 9,695
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 159 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by not_jason View Post
Well, let's start with this: I'm six feet tall and I ride a 58cm road bike, comfortably. What do you think would be a suitable size in a mountain bike for drop bar conversion? Most of what I ever seem to come across is under 20".
I'm 6'2 or 6'3 and my 22" frame seems small. Not just because of the 8 or so inches (maybe 10-11 haven't looked recently) of exposed seatpost, but also the 140 mm stem. Now if I was more flexible and could handle a stem that was lower I probably wouldn't need one so long, but I have only a 2-3 inch drop at most from the saddle to the bars and a stem that tall gets pushed back rather far toward the seat due to headtube angle.

I am a bit oddly proportioned and have long monkey arms though.

Last edited by himespau; 07-05-12 at 07:58 PM.
himespau is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 08:00 PM   #132
MyBikeGotStolen
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Bikes: Raleigh Glacier MTB/Commuter. Cannondale CAAD5, Windsor Timeline fixed gear
Posts: 765
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post

I've got shallow drop bars with cable grooves and Tektro aero levers. I could fit V-brakes or canti's - which would work best with those levers?

I already have NOS indexed 7 speed stem shifters and although I'd probably prefer barcons, this is a "zero-budget" build so to those who use stem shifters with this set-up, are they OK?
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.

I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
MyBikeGotStolen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 08:13 PM   #133
himespau 
Senior Member
 
himespau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Bikes:
Posts: 9,695
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 159 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.
That was my experience as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
It depends on how tall your adapter is. I had a Soma Hi Rise adapter that didn't have any problems, but I had maybe 6" of adapter showing. Then I switched to using Kelly Take Offs which are expensive (and many people find them ugly), but are great in that they put the downtube shift levers right at your fingertips if you're on the hoods or tops. Not so easy to use from the drops though. Still, throw some interrupter brake levers on the tops and the Kelly's and you've got a bomb proof commuter with lots of functional hand positions for riding upright in traffic or getting more aero if you want.
himespau is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 08:15 PM   #134
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
I LOVE the v-brake set up with Tektros...it's not terribly expensive, it's more stopping power than cantis and they're easier to set up. If you aren't going brifters or fenders, this is by far the best approach IMO.









KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 08:21 PM   #135
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,974
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
i'm still wondering if someone has used downtube shifters. you could use the older band-type bosses to add to a mtb w/o them
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 08:36 PM   #136
clasher 
Senior Member
 
clasher's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kitchener, ON
Bikes:
Posts: 1,943
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by frantik View Post
i'm still wondering if someone has used downtube shifters. you could use the older band-type bosses to add to a mtb w/o them
I didn't think to even take pictures of it but a former housemate wanted a solid bicycle so I built her a late 80s Kona Fire Mountain (i think). It got a pair of band shifters for downtube ones instead of stems shifters I built for another friend... this one was a wicked 90s fluorescent pink mtb that got drop bars and all the goodies for loaded touring. Someone should made a stem spacer with downtube mounts on them, certainly that can't be any more obnoxious than stem shifters.
clasher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 09:29 PM   #137
not_jason
Senior Member
 
not_jason's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Maine
Bikes: '85 Univega Safari-Ten (fixed), '84 Univega Supra-Sport, '85 Univega Gran Turismo, '86 Bianch Giro, '93 Cannondale R300, '68 Raleigh Gran-Prix (S3X fixed), '74 Schwinn Sprint (fixed), '5? Raleigh Lenton, '73 Raleigh Sprite, '36 Three Spires... etc.
Posts: 294
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
What is that shifter and where can I get them? If they can be gotten cheap enough, it seems like a good brifter alternative on budget builds. Looks fantastic.
not_jason is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 09:32 PM   #138
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Suntour Commands...I'm not thrilled with them, though I'm picky and spoiled by Campagnolo perfection. If I did the build again I'd have used brifters or maybe even the dread barcons.

They usually sell 75-100ish in decent shape, so while not brifter price, they aren't truly budget either.
KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-12, 09:38 PM   #139
frantik
Chainstay Brake Mafia
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Bikes:
Posts: 5,974
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by clasher View Post
I didn't think to even take pictures of it but a former housemate wanted a solid bicycle so I built her a late 80s Kona Fire Mountain (i think). It got a pair of band shifters for downtube ones instead of stems shifters I built for another friend... this one was a wicked 90s fluorescent pink mtb that got drop bars and all the goodies for loaded touring. Someone should made a stem spacer with downtube mounts on them, certainly that can't be any more obnoxious than stem shifters.
aww too bad u didn't take a pic. i also wonder about thumb shifters on drops.. would have to widen the band but i bet u could jimmy one one a frankenbuild
frantik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 12:09 AM   #140
Sixty Fiver
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
 
Sixty Fiver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: YEG
Bikes: See my sig...
Posts: 27,264
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by not_jason View Post
What is that shifter and where can I get them? If they can be gotten cheap enough, it seems like a good brifter alternative on budget builds. Looks fantastic.
As stated, these are Suntour Command Shifters which do fetch as much as a set of new indexed bar end shifters... I have a set I am saving for some future project and they are not a commonly found part and ergonomically, they are an excellent design.
Sixty Fiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 12:26 AM   #141
RFC
Senior Member
 
RFC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Bikes: many
Posts: 4,471
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
I have to admit that I like canti's over V-Brakes. I have had both and find the V-Brake tolerances to be much narrower than canti's. As a result, I have converted most of my applicable bikes to canti's. Yes, canti's are a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, not at all bad. At the end of the day, both are fine and workable.
RFC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 05:22 AM   #142
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
As stated, these are Suntour Command Shifters which do fetch as much as a set of new indexed bar end shifters... I have a set I am saving for some future project and they are not a commonly found part and ergonomically, they are an excellent design.
Ergonomically they are fantastic, you can easily shift from the drops, hoods or even flats. As far as shifting, it's chunky, not accurate indexing and the friction isn't really friction. I've heard that you can remove some bearings inside them for true friction shifting. I would not recommend them and will likely replace these at some point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFC View Post
I have to admit that I like canti's over V-Brakes. I have had both and find the V-Brake tolerances to be much narrower than canti's. As a result, I have converted most of my applicable bikes to canti's. Yes, canti's are a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it, not at all bad. At the end of the day, both are fine and workable.
They each have their place, but on a bike like this, I really like the v-brakes. I'd like to try some mini-vs at some point, preferably the Pauls.
KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 03:37 PM   #143
Oldpeddaller
Senior Member
 
Oldpeddaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MyBikeGotStolen View Post
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you would want to go with the cantis since the v-brakes will require extra parts or special road bike levers to work. Mine works fine with my cantis.

I use stem shift on mine, and really love it, even if they are major dorky (but then again, so is the whole bike!). The only down side I would see to the stem shifters is if you use a threaded to threadless adapter like I originally planned on doing. They will not work properly with that since it will have a bulge on the adapter that will probably interfere with the levers.
Thanks, that's exactly the info I was looking for!
Oldpeddaller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 03:59 PM   #144
Oldpeddaller
Senior Member
 
Oldpeddaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
I LOVE the v-brake set up with Tektros...it's not terribly expensive, it's more stopping power than cantis and they're easier to set up. If you aren't going brifters or fenders, this is by far the best approach IMO.









Thanks Aaron - I think that maybe sub consciously it may have been your bike that planted this seed of an idea in my feeble mind!
Oldpeddaller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 04:02 PM   #145
Oldpeddaller
Senior Member
 
Oldpeddaller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Posts: 2,619
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by himespau View Post
It depends on the tektro levers, but most likely it's going to be cantilevers. With most V-brakes you'll need a travel agent of some sort and you said this was to be a no budget build.
Ah, that's a point - I guess that would modify the amount of cable pull - simple and straightforward it is, then!
Oldpeddaller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 06:08 PM   #146
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldpeddaller View Post
Thanks Aaron - I think that maybe sub consciously it may have been your bike that planted this seed of an idea in my feeble mind!
For what it's worth, I think it's a better, easier set up than cantis and it works very well. I was really happy about how that part of the bike worked out. The commands, not so much. I understand why suntour died in the market.
KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 06:55 PM   #147
Captain Blight
Senior Member
 
Captain Blight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes: -1973 Motobecane Mirage -197? Velosolex L'Etoile -'71 Raleigh Super Course
Posts: 2,473
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Oh, bite yer tongue! I got two bikes set up with Command Shift, both of them Treks. The 560 has the indexed ones and they work flawlessly. The trick to setting them up is to let the housings compress down for a few rides and then adjust the cable tension for a really good crisp 3-4 downshift. Everything else then falls into line. Mind you, you also need to have everything else matched properly, which I suspect you do.

My 616 has friction style, they came to me with the ball detent already removed, and they work quite well over 8 gears in back. So if you don't want yours, let me know and I'll gladly buy them. Far and away my favorite shifters.
Captain Blight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 07:12 PM   #148
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
Capt., I think that's part of the issue...deore rear dérailleur. I might shift to suntour and see if that helps. My lbs guys all assured me it wouldn't help much. If the friction mode worked, it would be ok. I probably will switch out and you're first to know!
KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 08:13 PM   #149
Captain Blight
Senior Member
 
Captain Blight's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis
Bikes: -1973 Motobecane Mirage -197? Velosolex L'Etoile -'71 Raleigh Super Course
Posts: 2,473
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Ohhhhh... If you're not using a later Suntour mech, that's the problem right there. Try one of the various XC models, a Pro by preference, with a 4-prong Winner. That should clear it up. FWIW I don't think Winner freewheels shift very well except in index mode. Somewhere in the forum archives, there's a Rosetta Stone with the info needed to build a Hyperglide cassette with Suntour index spacing. That would be handy to have. It would be too much hassle, but the Command Shifters are just *so* nice.
Captain Blight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-12, 08:44 PM   #150
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Bikes: Two wheeled ones
Posts: 15,543
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 350 Post(s)
I'll give it a shot, but to be honest I've ridden commands with the xc pro and freewheel and thought they had the same issue. My cassette was spaced correctly, so it shouldn't be a problem. If the friction mode worked, it would be fine.
KonAaron Snake is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:56 PM.