acoffin 

The second version of the Gary bar (GaryII, though it is not marked as such anywhere on the bar) accepts bar ends. The first version did not, it also had more shallow drops and less flare IIRC.

jdefran

Chris, would you say the Rockhopper has steeper angles (less relaxed)? If so, does feel better when standing and mashing or taking fast turns than the High Sierra?

neo_pop_71

Hey Chris_in_Miami, man I always love seeing your black chrome beauty with the roller cam brakes!

I dig those CST tires, what model are those? What's the size, 26" x __"? I went to REI and looked at the WTB slicks again, I wasn't as impressed the second time around, so I'm still looking and your CSTs are the best I've seen.

Thanks again, peace!

-D-

anixi

^I can recommend the Serfas Drifter as a alternative, if you can't find the CSTs that is.

neo_pop_71

Thanks anixi! I just checked them out at the REI online store, those do look like ideal tires for my build. The tire has a great cut to the tread, it looks like it would hook up in the dirt and still roll smoothly on pavement. I'm curious since REI didn't list any specs, what is the suggested/max pressure on the tire?

Thanks for the suggestion!

-D-

anixi

Amazon says 65psi, which makes it a bit of a rough ride. I would put in at least 50psi, on pavement, 45psi on mixed/dirt/gravel. I'm glad I could help out. I really like the look of the tire also.

Velognome 

Been riding a Bio-pace ring set on my '90 Giant Iguana and just switched to a road triple....Heaven, I'm in heaven.....

dddd

Pressure recommendations have to be in context with the rider's weight.

For reference, I'm 155lb and with fat 2.3's I would run only 32psi off-road with 24mm wide rims, adding a couple psi for use with narrower rims.

On road, I would go up to 37psi, and wouldn't expect a squishy ride, but obviously not like a road bike either.

neo_pop_71

Hello everyone,

I've got a polish question... what are you using to shine up your vintage conversions? I'm curious about paint polish and metal polish. I've been using Zymol polymer polish for the paint for years and it's always done a great job. On my Cimarron conversion I've reached the stage of figuring out which cantilever brake calipers I plan to use with my Shimano STI brifters. Digging through the part bins I found an old set of first generation XT "Deerhead" (BR-MC-70) calipers but they were definitely looking their age! I grabbed my Simichrome and went to work...



Well, it was the magic luster I'd dreamed about but it did do a good job for an initial polishing, I think at least one more coat of Simichrome polish is in order. However, based on the funk and lacking any shine... the "Deerhead" XT canti calipers are now looking pretty good for being circa 1983-1986.

So, what's worked well for you guys?

Thanks!


-D-

Sixty Fiver

I have simichrome and a bunch of other polishes... Mother's is my favourite for Aluminium and for steel I use some wadded up aluminium foil and lemon juice.

seely

For what it's worth, I've been rocking the Michelin Tracker's in 1.85" for a few weeks now and love 'em. They are heavy, but they ride well and have enough tread to hook up in dirt and snow around here. Cheap at $24/ea for a Michelin.

anixi

Great deal! The Serfas are much more expensive, unless, as I did, you find a pair of them at the thrift store (NOS!) for $5!

seely

I never find anything worthwhile at the thrift store! Here's the Michelins if anyone is interested: https://www.treefortbikes.com/home#na...22371593___420

likebike23

Ok, so here's my latest project. Picked up this vintage BCA mountain bike this winter. It's a lugged frame with a biplane fork, cool fastback style stays, and laid back geometry (70/70). The paint is a little rough, but I like the color. Got the BB, headset, and wheel bearings done. The drivetrain is done, couldn't get the suntour accushift stem shifters to index with the accushift derailleur, but it works good in friction. Just have to do the brakes and tape and a few loose ends. Hope you like it.

Chris_in_Miami

Those are CST Cyclops, 26x2.4 (I think.) They're cheap as dirt, though I think CST has discontinued them. They weigh a ton (over 2lbs each,) but they give you a full on suspension when you run them with low pressure (15-20lbs worked great for me.) Interestingly, they held great in loose gravel and dirt at that pressure, never washed out in the turns. I sold the High Sierra recently, and the tires went with it, they wouldn't clear the chainstays on any of my other MTBs.

Unreal, that's the nicest BCA I've ever seen!! Is the frame chromed under the paint?

striknein

I would ride that straight off into the sunset. The geometry looks great.

likebike23

Thanks for the comments guys. @Chris in Miami: The frame is not chromed. I cleaned the dirt off, used paint rubbing compound, then waxed the frame and the shine came back pretty well. The bike is from 1983 according to the codes on the dia compe brakes. The sticker on the top tube says "classic" which I assume is the model. I don't have too much info on the bike other than that.

jdefran

Are inline cable adjusters necessary for proper cable tension or can you achieve just through adjusting the derailleur? For those using them, is there an optimum location for them?

frantik

if you're using indexing you might need them if the adjusting screw at the derailleur + at your shifter (if any) doesn't work for you

not being a fan of indexing i've never really worried about it on shifter cables. for BRAKE cables though they are nice for adjusting brakes on the fly

Andiroo

Hi all

I have a 1993 full LX groupset with rapid fire shifters (7-speed). I just decided that my old rigid Balance XR-550 MTB rigid frame is in good enough nick to rebuild as a drop bar bike. So I stripped off the groupset and am now looking for an ideal donor frame. Any suggestions for a vintage frame that I should go seek out? Alternative is a new frame but prefer something classic as long as works well.


Thanks

Andy

bobotech

if you are using brifters/STI shifters and you want them to work their best, you would want at least one for the front derailleur. Remember, most mountain bike shifters have adjustable cable stops on the flat bar shifters themselves but most brifters do not have them. Mountain bikes don't have adjusters on the downtubes since they expect the flat bar shifters to have the adjusters on them. You can adjust the rear derailleur easily enough using the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur but front derailleurs don't have them.

When I first setup my mountain bike with brifters, I didn't have a barrel adjuster and I just couldn't get the front shifter to shift smoothly. After i got the inline adjuster in place for the front shifter, I was able to get the shifting to work MUCH smoother.

frantik

there are so many "acceptable" frames it's hard to say what to look for, especially since models change from year to year. At the minimum i'd find a frame with all Tange MTB tubes, stays, and fork. even better is Tange Prestige or True Temper OX tubing. or you can go with aluminum and/or composites if you're interested in that route

i also recommend a head tube angle on the steeper side but that's all down to preference

jdefran

What size top tube do you ride on a road frame?

Andiroo

Standover height is 32.5 inches. Frame is 22.5 ctc. I believe top tube length is 22 inches also ctc. This is a touring bike that is comfortable.

Andy

Donkey Hodie

It's been ages since I posted at bikeforums, but I had to say that this is a beautiful looking build. I just acquired a near-pristine 1983 grey stumpjumper that I am thinking of setting up with drops as well. Your stumpy is very inspiring...Thanks for sharing!