Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
11-27-13, 12:01 PM
#2551
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Threads like this are often a great source of ideas. I thought it would be useful to post a link to a similar thread regarding MTB touring conversions (from the touring forum) as there is some content overlap. It's cool how people are re-purposing these great old frames and I look forward to seeing more.
11-27-13, 03:23 PM
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Made a few changes to the Croll including Midge bars and new cantis.
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
11-27-13, 03:51 PM
#2553
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Made a few changes to the Croll including Midge bars and new cantis.
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
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11-27-13, 05:24 PM
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https://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com...rs-update.html
11-27-13, 05:26 PM
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Made a few changes to the Croll including Midge bars and new cantis.
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
Top notch.
I'll be doing a single speed Park Pre build that you might like as well.
Collecting parts atm.
11-27-13, 05:33 PM
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I rode Ragley Luxy bars and they are outstanding.
https://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com...rs-update.html
https://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com...rs-update.html
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11-27-13, 05:52 PM
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I would have used the red stem myself but there's a 26/25.4 situation (bars 26). I have some MAP/Ahearne bars (modeled after Cinelli Priest) that I prefer non-aero levers on, but thus far I've always ran aero on the 'stache bars.
11-29-13, 01:14 PM
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I need of some advice and help from the experts here....
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
11-29-13, 01:29 PM
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Made a few changes to the Croll including Midge bars and new cantis.
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
The midge bars have some real flaws, the main almost inexcusable one being that they are painted instead of anodized, meaning if you don't want your controls to slither around on the bars you need to take the paint off (I did so with a channel lock wrench) where they are mounted before proceeding. They also don't hold all that well in the stem unless they are really torqued in, and even then I'm doubtful they will stay come some real rough stuff. The drops on the midges are way too short, but still nice for descending. I rode them on the hoods when climbing or on the flats, and in the drops on the descents. Fairly well designed (minus the paint and too short drops) for the dirt. Maybe I can find some sort of champagne cork bar end to make them more tolerable on the road.
The above said, they'll probably stay on the bike for now as they are better than the road bars I was using. Still searching for the utopian drop bar though
11-29-13, 01:59 PM
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Reach to the thumbs is fine, maybe even a little easier than a road bar as the controls are turned a bit making the paddles lower. My only complaint with them now that they're on the bike is that the drops are too short for regular trail riding (but great on descents). The WTB dirt drop looks like a nice bar to me. Woodchipper maybe even better if you spend lots of time on the road.
11-29-13, 02:04 PM
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I need of some advice and help from the experts here....
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
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11-29-13, 02:22 PM
#2564
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I need of some advice and help from the experts here....
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
I was test-fitting parts onto Giant Smurf this morning and discovered a problem that stopped its build in its tracks!
The frame needs a top-pull, top-mount FD. I had a vintage Deore (DX) endless band type that I thought was ideal for the job. I found out it's for a 28.6mm seat tube, and I have a 31.8mm one...with the end ovalized at the BB. Nothing currently on the market will work....they are all bottom mount style. And an E-type won't work without buying a new cartridge BB. I want to use the Sugino crank with a 42t outer ring, as pictured.
Does anyone know of a vintage model triple FD that will work with this frame and crank?
Granted, this is an expensive version, but I've got an old Altus version on my 89 hardrock, so they are out there.
11-29-13, 03:00 PM
#2565
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Yeah most shimano derailleur in the mid 1990s through to early 2000s and even later. I think I have a very newish (9 speed anyway) LX that is 34.9 and top pull, high mount. I would be willing to let this one go and I have the shim to make it 31.8... Is there no pulley mount on your frame? Most of mine have the pulley mount though I would prefer to use top pulls and bypass the pulley.
The Giant frame has no pulley, it was using some top pull model. But I was only provided the frame.
I'll see what I can find first locally. Just need to know what to look for with the right cage profile. If there isn't one that can reach down low enough for a 42t ring, then I'll have to swap over to a larger Deore DX crank. But the Sugino looks better and more matched to the riding terrain I want to use the bike on....tough gravel trails, and some single-track mtb trails that are local to me (Hawes Trail).
11-29-13, 03:03 PM
#2566
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As I had stated, that would work, but I would need a new BB to match it. The one for the Sugino crank has the flanged cup on the NDS, and a plastic cup on the DS! Had it been the other way, I could pick up any E-type unit.
11-29-13, 03:20 PM
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Thanks Cyclotoine. I'll keep your offer as a last resort. Knowing how it was to ship internationally between Canada/USA.
The Giant frame has no pulley, it was using some top pull model. But I was only provided the frame.
I'll see what I can find first locally. Just need to know what to look for with the right cage profile. If there isn't one that can reach down low enough for a 42t ring, then I'll have to swap over to a larger Deore DX crank. But the Sugino looks better and more matched to the riding terrain I want to use the bike on....tough gravel trails, and some single-track mtb trails that are local to me (Hawes Trail).
The Giant frame has no pulley, it was using some top pull model. But I was only provided the frame.
I'll see what I can find first locally. Just need to know what to look for with the right cage profile. If there isn't one that can reach down low enough for a 42t ring, then I'll have to swap over to a larger Deore DX crank. But the Sugino looks better and more matched to the riding terrain I want to use the bike on....tough gravel trails, and some single-track mtb trails that are local to me (Hawes Trail).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-ALIV...-/331076613971
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11-29-13, 03:28 PM
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Reach to the thumbs is fine, maybe even a little easier than a road bar as the controls are turned a bit making the paddles lower. My only complaint with them now that they're on the bike is that the drops are too short for regular trail riding (but great on descents). The WTB dirt drop looks like a nice bar to me. Woodchipper maybe even better if you spend lots of time on the road.
I often ride to my off road destinations on our city streets. I like how they can be ridden in an upright position.
Plenty of hand positions and heads up visibility.
11-29-13, 03:57 PM
#2569
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I decided to have a look around. They still make derailleur that will do the job and inexpensive..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-ALIV...-/331076613971
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-ALIV...-/331076613971
Ah NOS still available on ebay! Cool, this one is the right profile too.
12-04-13, 09:50 PM
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Great looking build. I'm in the process of building one as well but I think I'm going to have exactly the same problem which is that I'll be too cramped in the drops. I'm getting a saddle with a bit longer rails which will help some; I'm probably going to get the selle anatomica nsx.
12-04-13, 10:49 PM
#2571
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Great looking build. I'm in the process of building one as well but I think I'm going to have exactly the same problem which is that I'll be too cramped in the drops. I'm getting a saddle with a bit longer rails which will help some; I'm probably going to get the selle anatomica nsx.
Here's a borderline-salacious comparison shot of the SR Randonneur bars and the VOs, showing how much reach I gained:
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12-04-13, 10:53 PM
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I didn't dig too hard! This was the 2d posting on this thread. I'd forgotten about the VO rando bars; I'll take a look at them. I'm thinking of picking up a selle anatomica saddle in part because the long rails will help with set back. But the stem and handlebar are an issue.
12-05-13, 11:26 AM
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This is a 1986 Stumpjumper frame I recently acquired. The original orange paint had been oversprayed and looked pretty bad. Had it stripped and powder coated in Candy Orange by a local outfit, Creative Candy in Dawsonville, Georgia. The base coat is silver with some metal flake added. The frame really pops in direct light. Before powder coating, I had Seth Snyder, a local frame and wheel builder, check frame alignment and braze posts on the downtube for the 105 shifters I will use. The last photo shows some of the parts; new, NOS and used already acquired for the build. Look forward to showing pictures of the completed all rounder sometime in the spring.
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12-05-13, 02:11 PM
#2574
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This is a 1986 Stumpjumper frame I recently acquired. The original orange paint had been oversprayed and looked pretty bad. Had it stripped and powder coated in Candy Orange by a local outfit, Creative Candy in Dawsonville, Georgia. The base coat is silver with some metal flake added. The frame really pops in direct light. Before powder coating, I had Seth Snyder, a local frame and wheel builder, check frame alignment and braze posts on the downtube for the 105 shifters I will use. The last photo shows some of the parts; new, NOS and used already acquired for the build. Look forward to showing pictures of the completed all rounder sometime in the spring.
