Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#4276
Senior Member
I got a 21" Trek 750 in a frame swap with KOBE that fit me great. I took 22" frames on the road side. This Trek was one of the sloping tube models that was not lugged, later model.
So saying, there's a good chance you can make it fit. Everybody has different measurements when it comes to torso,arm and leg lengths.
So saying, there's a good chance you can make it fit. Everybody has different measurements when it comes to torso,arm and leg lengths.
#4277
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Hey I have a question I want opinions on from you guys. As I mentioned in my earlier post, I have a lugged, 700c wheel size '91 Trek 750 Multitrack frame I'm building into a drop bar roadbike. It's a 21" frame, and I normally ride on 18"-19" mtb frames. 18" is probably a hair small for me (I'm 6' tall) but I like the manueverability in that size. So obviously since the 750 is gonna be a 21" bike it's gonna be quite a bit different. Since I rode 23" frame road bikes back in the day, I thought the 21" hybrid frame should fit me pretty well. What are your thoughts? Thanks.
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#4278
Senior Member
Thank you.
It's a 1992 model (23" and lugged even).
I had actually considered building it up for myself as a 26" tourer.
That's a relatively inexpensive Xero Element XSM-3 Rim and hub wheelset he picked up for less than a hundred I think.
Too few a spoke count for me but they will do I guess as they give the bike a bit of a different look of modern and old that kind of grows on me.
Good you are getting in some good miles on your High Plains.
I often pick one of my 26"ers for riding over my 700c bikes as these fatter road tires on these bikes make for a cush and fun ride on the rough streets around here.
It's a 1992 model (23" and lugged even).
I had actually considered building it up for myself as a 26" tourer.
That's a relatively inexpensive Xero Element XSM-3 Rim and hub wheelset he picked up for less than a hundred I think.
Too few a spoke count for me but they will do I guess as they give the bike a bit of a different look of modern and old that kind of grows on me.
Good you are getting in some good miles on your High Plains.
I often pick one of my 26"ers for riding over my 700c bikes as these fatter road tires on these bikes make for a cush and fun ride on the rough streets around here.
I am with you on the spoke count, I like many so the wheel does not pancake when I bust one. Easier to fix and ride home. Retired bike mechanic, ya know...
92 and lugged, I guess they kept it up for the time it was offered. What I love about the High Plains is that the frame is all lugged and hand brazed plus on mine it had the hand paint job "spider lace"effect. No two are alike.
#4280
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If I recall correctly there have been a number of questions on this thread about quill stems with removable faceplates. There are not that many out there, but here is an option I had not seen mentioned:
Nitto UI-12 31.8 quill stem | Retrogression
It only comes in 31.8 clamp, from what I can tell. And its appearance isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea... But still...
Nitto UI-12 31.8 quill stem | Retrogression
It only comes in 31.8 clamp, from what I can tell. And its appearance isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea... But still...
#4281
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After seeing the nice Schwinn High Plains of '3speedslow' above on this page I thought I would share a recent build a friend and
I did of a High Plains for a friend of his.
This came to me as a frame only and had been setting in my garage for about 2 years.
We decided to do it up as a cool urban cruiser for his friend that needed a bike.
Since this pic we tweaked a few things but this is essentially what we came up with.
I know this is a thread for mtb drop bar conversions but hopefully this is still in the spirit of the thread.
Perhaps a new thread should be started for these vintage mtbs that have been converted to upright bars.
Some make for simply terrific budget urban cruisers using Albatross or similar upright bars.
At least that's been my experience.
I did of a High Plains for a friend of his.
This came to me as a frame only and had been setting in my garage for about 2 years.
We decided to do it up as a cool urban cruiser for his friend that needed a bike.
Since this pic we tweaked a few things but this is essentially what we came up with.
I know this is a thread for mtb drop bar conversions but hopefully this is still in the spirit of the thread.
Perhaps a new thread should be started for these vintage mtbs that have been converted to upright bars.
Some make for simply terrific budget urban cruisers using Albatross or similar upright bars.
At least that's been my experience.
#4282
Senior Member
I have a Surly LHT that I rarely use these days. I enjoy riding my other bikes better and young kids prevent me from touring anytime soon. Yet I still occasionally need/want a winter commuter.
I have a pristine Trek 950 single track bike. I converted it to single speed and tried some actual singletrack. Not my cup of tea and the bike has been hanging ever since.
Could anyone tell me why I should consider refitting the Trek 950 as a drop-bar replacement for my occasionally-used LHT??
I have a pristine Trek 950 single track bike. I converted it to single speed and tried some actual singletrack. Not my cup of tea and the bike has been hanging ever since.
Could anyone tell me why I should consider refitting the Trek 950 as a drop-bar replacement for my occasionally-used LHT??
#4284
Senior Member
^ Well...if you're talking about selling one of the bikes, I'm guessing you could get quite a bit more for the LHT. If they are fungible as winter commuters, that might be an answer. But it's hard to say that unless you have built them both up (with similar or identical parts, to be fair) and ridden them a good deal.
#4285
Thrifty Bill
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I have a Surly LHT that I rarely use these days. I enjoy riding my other bikes better and young kids prevent me from touring anytime soon. Yet I still occasionally need/want a winter commuter.
I have a pristine Trek 950 single track bike. I converted it to single speed and tried some actual singletrack. Not my cup of tea and the bike has been hanging ever since.
Could anyone tell me why I should consider refitting the Trek 950 as a drop-bar replacement for my occasionally-used LHT??
I have a pristine Trek 950 single track bike. I converted it to single speed and tried some actual singletrack. Not my cup of tea and the bike has been hanging ever since.
Could anyone tell me why I should consider refitting the Trek 950 as a drop-bar replacement for my occasionally-used LHT??
#4286
Banned.
Gave this Merlin to my friend. Was a flat bar but he wanted to try brifters so gave him parts to swap either way. 105 front shifter is for double crank so changed the XT to 105. Gearing probably too tall, but he uses it mostly on road or bike path with his family so should be ok.
#4288
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If I recall correctly there have been a number of questions on this thread about quill stems with removable faceplates. There are not that many out there, but here is an option I had not seen mentioned:
Nitto UI-12 31.8 quill stem | Retrogression
It only comes in 31.8 clamp, from what I can tell. And its appearance isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea... But still...
Nitto UI-12 31.8 quill stem | Retrogression
It only comes in 31.8 clamp, from what I can tell. And its appearance isn't going to be everyone's cup of tea... But still...
I think it would look perfect on an early 90's MTB. Very similar to the Ritchey stem on my '94 MB1
#4289
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Gave this Merlin to my friend. Was a flat bar but he wanted to try brifters so gave him parts to swap either way. 105 front shifter is for double crank so changed the XT to 105. Gearing probably too tall, but he uses it mostly on road or bike path with his family so should be ok.
It looks like the inner chainring could go smaller - down to a 38t? I'd say you have an accurate assessment: probably great for road and gravel. Nice build!
#4290
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How do you like the Twin Rails?
#4292
High Plains Luddite
It is quirky, and doing the work was great fun for me. My MTB had mis-matched brake levers and shifters, had bent and frayed cables, cracked housing, and needed new brake pads (and canti arms, too, as I discovered later). With all that work to do, I figured why not throw a few (okay, a lot) more dollars into it and put on drop bars, which I love on my road bike. I couldn't seem to get comfortable on the MTB, but on the road bike, I didn't even think about hand positions, because they were all comfortable.
I am pleased beyond expectations with how mine turned out, except for one thing: I washed and waxed it and now with fresh handlebar tape and a shiny finish, I'm afraid it looks too desirable to thieves!
However, this too shall pass, as I have already started the dirtification process. Pretty soon it will return to its former state of being coated with grime, dust, caked-on mud, and road spray. Winter is coming!
I am pleased beyond expectations with how mine turned out, except for one thing: I washed and waxed it and now with fresh handlebar tape and a shiny finish, I'm afraid it looks too desirable to thieves!
However, this too shall pass, as I have already started the dirtification process. Pretty soon it will return to its former state of being coated with grime, dust, caked-on mud, and road spray. Winter is coming!
#4293
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Thanks for everyone's replies to my question, I havent been online for the last 2 days thanks to work (ugh!). I did pick up a couple of near new Richey Speedmax 700c tires for the bike though. Getting pretty excited now, this is gonna be a real frankenbike, but I think it's gonna ride really nice if my 950 is any indicator.
#4294
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Got a dumb question about shifters. The bike I'm putting back together is 3x7 HG gearing, and I need some road-type shifters to work with it.
Finding 3x7 or 3x8 bar-end shifters is almost impossible, though that's what I'm really after. There's a lot of 3x10 shifters available that convert to friction, which I'd be fine with...however, I don't know anything about the standard amount of cable pull on new shifters, and whether it's sufficient for controlling a 7-speed derailleur. It makes sense that it would be, but I'd like to be sure before I invest.
Also, I found some inexpensive Shimano 3x8 brifters, ST-2300 and ST-2303 assemblies. Anyone have any experience with the quality of them? I'm fairly sure the RH 8-speed shifter would work, but I'm not sure about the LH 3-speed. Did I read correctly that Shimano road and MTB front derailleurs have different throws, and I'd need to swap in a road derailleur for this to work?
Finding 3x7 or 3x8 bar-end shifters is almost impossible, though that's what I'm really after. There's a lot of 3x10 shifters available that convert to friction, which I'd be fine with...however, I don't know anything about the standard amount of cable pull on new shifters, and whether it's sufficient for controlling a 7-speed derailleur. It makes sense that it would be, but I'd like to be sure before I invest.
Also, I found some inexpensive Shimano 3x8 brifters, ST-2300 and ST-2303 assemblies. Anyone have any experience with the quality of them? I'm fairly sure the RH 8-speed shifter would work, but I'm not sure about the LH 3-speed. Did I read correctly that Shimano road and MTB front derailleurs have different throws, and I'd need to swap in a road derailleur for this to work?
#4295
High Plains Luddite
Shimano Dura-Ace 2/3x8sp bar-endey' shift levers, Shifters
Last edited by Squeeze; 08-29-15 at 06:51 AM.
#4296
Thrifty Bill
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Got a dumb question about shifters. The bike I'm putting back together is 3x7 HG gearing, and I need some road-type shifters to work with it.
Finding 3x7 or 3x8 bar-end shifters is almost impossible, though that's what I'm really after. There's a lot of 3x10 shifters available that convert to friction, which I'd be fine with...however, I don't know anything about the standard amount of cable pull on new shifters, and whether it's sufficient for controlling a 7-speed derailleur. It makes sense that it would be, but I'd like to be sure before I invest.
Also, I found some inexpensive Shimano 3x8 brifters, ST-2300 and ST-2303 assemblies. Anyone have any experience with the quality of them? I'm fairly sure the RH 8-speed shifter would work, but I'm not sure about the LH 3-speed. Did I read correctly that Shimano road and MTB front derailleurs have different throws, and I'd need to swap in a road derailleur for this to work?
Finding 3x7 or 3x8 bar-end shifters is almost impossible, though that's what I'm really after. There's a lot of 3x10 shifters available that convert to friction, which I'd be fine with...however, I don't know anything about the standard amount of cable pull on new shifters, and whether it's sufficient for controlling a 7-speed derailleur. It makes sense that it would be, but I'd like to be sure before I invest.
Also, I found some inexpensive Shimano 3x8 brifters, ST-2300 and ST-2303 assemblies. Anyone have any experience with the quality of them? I'm fairly sure the RH 8-speed shifter would work, but I'm not sure about the LH 3-speed. Did I read correctly that Shimano road and MTB front derailleurs have different throws, and I'd need to swap in a road derailleur for this to work?
#4297
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#4298
Keener splendor
#4299
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Cool, everyone...thank you. Turns out I had some Suntour Accushift barcons in a box I had squirrelled away. Set to friction, I think they should do okay, but if they don't I know I have some options.
#4300
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Here are Shimano 3x8 bar end shifters in stock in Golden, Colorado. I have these on my 3x8 MTB. Nice quality.
Shimano Dura-Ace 2/3x8sp bar-endey' shift levers, Shifters
Shimano Dura-Ace 2/3x8sp bar-endey' shift levers, Shifters