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  1. #1
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    Cilo SPort 105 - Rust Spots on Frame and Front Fork - Advice on refinishing & safety

    Hi! This is my first post and I was sent over here from the GEAR PAGE where I spend time reading about guitars/amps and other related gear.... Any help/advice is much appreciated.

    I have a Cilo Sport 105 road bike that I purchased new back in the mid 80s (1986?)... so the bike is about 25 years old. Used a bit over the first 10 years but overall it has relatively low miles on it. Always stored indoors.

    I am concerned over some rust spots on the frame... I'd like some comments/advice on how to refinish the spots and from a safety perspective, how to assess if the rust spots have somehow compromised the strength of the frame/fork.

    The worst rust occurs on the lower front fork.. the area near where the fork connects to the hub. The paint got scratched over the years from transporting the bike in the trunk of my car. Looks like the bare spots have some (surface?) rust. Also the inside of the right front fork has an actual hole, approximately 1/8th inch in diameter and about 1 - 1 1/2" up from the tip of the fork.

    The last thing I need is the front fork giving out while I'm riding it!

    I guess I could do some light sanding on the spots, and then refinish with some primer/paint and wax. Besides the cosemtics, I am concerned with its safety.

    The bike cost $500 back then, and while its a bit dated, it has good hardware, Shimano 105 group and quality tubng - Tange1. About 10 years ago I had RA Cycle in Brookly built up a new pair of rims..and using 600 hubs, Mavic MA40 rims. The Vitorrio tires are only a year old and almost new!!!.. Outside of the few rust spots, the bike is in very good shape and other than repairing the rust spots and possibly changing over the old style pedals to something newer, it should be more than what I need!

    THANKS!







    Last edited by rw2003; 07-15-12 at 10:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    Piece of cake, hope you know how to paint too...

    Take the fork off the bike and take the crown race out, a hammer and a screwdriver will do it, if not take it to the shop, 30 secs with the tool.

    If you can't sandblast it just buy paint remover and put that in there, peel the whole fork really well.

    Now the hard part, that rust is just in the surface so you have two options here (if you sandblast it you are ready to go)... 1 use naval jelly and get the rust out or just use a steel wool and beat the crap out of it. If you use naval jelly you have to sand anyways ok?

    Once the rust is off, sand that with steel wool until really shiny and with a lot of super fine scratch lines. that will help the primer to stick to the metal.

    Ok now the paint part.

    Clean the surface after the sanding with alcohol using rags.

    Get U-POL High #5 High Build Primer, Aerosol in a shop that sells car paint. This is pro type of primer, dont use rustoleum. If you want the paint job to last use this. 15 to 20 bucks... buy the white (if they have it) or the light grey. Prime the fork... 2 coats.

    Now the paint, in the same place go to the catalogs and look for the color you need... if you want to go black great because you dont mess trying to find the right color. Get a pint of the color you want in the cheapest car paint they have... a pint is like 15 bucks.

    In the same place you might be able to find something called preval sprayer... buy one of those.. u will use this to paint unless you have a spray *** or a airbrush at home. This is self explanatory so i wont go into details. Some stores can put the paint in a spray can, so ask them ok? it might be better for you since is just one fork, one can is just more than enough, in this case you dont need the preval sprayer.

    Once you laid 2 layers of paint let it seat... for 12 to 24 hours and sand the bad spots if needed and then you have to apply clear coat. I would advice you to get u-pol #1 clear coat... give the thing 2 coats and let it seat for 24 hours. That clear coat doesnt get yellow and has UV protection (20 bucks), some shops sell a 2k clear in can aswell, has a hardener and stuff just like the car clear coat, you can use that one aswell.

    Done.

    If you leave in DC metro I can paint you the fork if you want.

    ps: dont dare to use lacquer like rustoleum, it will start chipping after a few days, really bad stuff. If you want something that will last use car paint, the stuff I adviced you to buy is for car industry, good stuff.
    Last edited by ultraman6970; 07-15-12 at 11:12 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member chi-james's Avatar
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    There is a lot of information in that answer. Thanks.

  4. #4
    Administrator CbadRider's Avatar
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    Moved from Mechanics to C&V.
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    So Tom only hires people that are nutty? Is part of the requirement to be a moderator on this site is that you have to be nuts??
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