Possibly the most trivial question ever asked on this forum
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Possibly the most trivial question ever asked on this forum
When you're installing top-tube cable clips, is there a convention on which way the nuts face and which way the slotted screw heads face? Screw heads to the drive side? Or nuts to the drive side? This is really, really important.
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I've searched and searched Emily Post for advice on this myself, but came up dry.
(I went with screw-heads to the drive side, because I think they're more attractive.)
(I went with screw-heads to the drive side, because I think they're more attractive.)
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I would find an original picture of the model of bike in question if possible and see how they were then.
By the way, I ask myself the same question on every bolt that could go either way!
By the way, I ask myself the same question on every bolt that could go either way!
#5
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I never thought much about it, bt you question made me look. On my bikes, all of the nuts are on the non-drive side for my bikes, screw heads on the drive side, brand reads from the saddle (i.e. forward on the bike).
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In campy guides, the nut is fixed. Screws enter from the right if the logo's face you when riding it. What tullio says is word, so from the right it is
#7
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All the nice stuff goes on the drive side. Makes pictures look better.
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#8
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I put the screw heads on the drive side.
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Looks like we're creating a consensus here.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
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Okay, it's a rule: screw heads on the drive side. That's pretty much what I'd decided--after installing them the other way, naturally. I guess I'll go back and turn them around.
By the way, I love this. A really substantial question can languish on here for days without a single reply, but this one drew eight responses in what, 20 minutes?
By the way, I love this. A really substantial question can languish on here for days without a single reply, but this one drew eight responses in what, 20 minutes?
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Last edited by jonwvara; 07-27-12 at 07:52 AM. Reason: lust for editing
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+100 Screw heads on the drive side, but never new there was a semi-concensus on it.
I've done it solely for aesthetics, makes the drive side look slightly better (screw heads look better).
Now I need to adopt screw slot parallel to ground standard.
I've done it solely for aesthetics, makes the drive side look slightly better (screw heads look better).
Now I need to adopt screw slot parallel to ground standard.
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Last edited by wrk101; 07-27-12 at 07:58 AM.
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Looks like we're creating a consensus here.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
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That's the really critical part. Hard to believe I overlooked that until now.
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#15
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Looks like we're creating a consensus here.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
BTW, speaking of the Campy fixed nuts, I removed one of those one time, when we were trying to figure out the threading ...remember that Italuminuim? .... and looked at the little, captured nut under magnification. Typical Campagnolo marvel of engineering.
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Not that it really matters, but I try to assemble everything from the drive side. Nuts on the non-drive side.
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And I thought I was the only nut who tries to make the slots in the screws parallel to the ground.
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Yep, long and frustrating saga, Pars. 5-40 they are, which, of course, I never thought of trying. Perhaps the fact that it is an odd size not generally available...I didn't have any ...led to head scratching for so long. Campy using Imperial size screws!? Go figure.
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I have an electrical engineer friend who commented to me one time that when he sees a series of screw head slots all purposely oriented in the same direction, he would like to know how many are slightly too loose or slightly too tight to get them to align that way.
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I wound up getting some stainless 5-40 button headed allen screws for mine for Fastenall... now I don't have to worry about slot direction
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True, but if there is a nut on one side it's a mute point!
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"Moot" point! Unless you're very quiet...
One of my dad's colleagues was Dr. Lloyd Moote: https://dornsife.usc.edu/cf/faculty-a...fm?pid=1003555
He was fond of making Moote points.
One of my dad's colleagues was Dr. Lloyd Moote: https://dornsife.usc.edu/cf/faculty-a...fm?pid=1003555
He was fond of making Moote points.
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My thinking is a bit more practically oriented. Bike is in stand with drive side outward, normally, especially during assembly. It's easier to reach across with a nut driver or wrench to hold the nut and to screw in from the side that's facing you. Hence, screws on the drive side.
As to slot orientation, Snydermann's engineering friend is perceptive. There definitely are a few screws loose...
As to slot orientation, Snydermann's engineering friend is perceptive. There definitely are a few screws loose...
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Once again, Thrifty Bill points the way....
We now desperately need a chart for various thread pitches, to determine the exact thickness of washer that must be placed under the screw head to rotate the slot from however many degrees, minutes and seconds it deviates from the horizontal.
We'll need to calculate the compensation for the screw elongation over the full range of recommended applied torque values, as well as the temperature, and the material (as Young's Modulus varies for carbon steel, stainless, Ti, etc).
- I am very deeply concerned however, about the degree of anisotropy in an individual screw. If the grain direction in the metal is off just a little, we could end up with egg on our faces.
We now desperately need a chart for various thread pitches, to determine the exact thickness of washer that must be placed under the screw head to rotate the slot from however many degrees, minutes and seconds it deviates from the horizontal.
We'll need to calculate the compensation for the screw elongation over the full range of recommended applied torque values, as well as the temperature, and the material (as Young's Modulus varies for carbon steel, stainless, Ti, etc).
- I am very deeply concerned however, about the degree of anisotropy in an individual screw. If the grain direction in the metal is off just a little, we could end up with egg on our faces.
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