Best 6 speed freewheel: 13-24
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Best 6 speed freewheel: 13-24
Hi. I'm sure this question has been posted before, but I can't seem to find the thread. Anyway: I'd like to replace the worn-out 6-speed, 13-24 freewheel on my Peugeot (not French threaded...I think). I live in the flatlands, so the 13 is more important than the 24. Not seeing too many options out there. Not looking to spend more than, say, $50. What would you use?
Last edited by brianinc-ville; 07-27-12 at 05:51 PM.
#2
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As a fellow flatlander, I like this range as well. I used to run a corncob, but have found that a 13-24 allows me to stay almost entirely on the large chainring, and gives me a better chainline, generally on the 53 x 21, 53 x 19 or 53 x 17 combos.
You can find old Suntour or 600 freewheels on Ebay. For current production fw, on a budget, it's tough unless you can fit a 7 speed. Then you can get a Sunrace 13-25 for around $20 shipped. The shifting is excellent, and lots of people use them. The one I bought recently was quite rough. I almost returned it, but gave it a lot of oil and that seems to have freed it up.
In a 6 speed I believe Sunrace only makes a 13-28. IRD makes a 13-24 but it's $50 at Harris.
You can find old Suntour or 600 freewheels on Ebay. For current production fw, on a budget, it's tough unless you can fit a 7 speed. Then you can get a Sunrace 13-25 for around $20 shipped. The shifting is excellent, and lots of people use them. The one I bought recently was quite rough. I almost returned it, but gave it a lot of oil and that seems to have freed it up.
In a 6 speed I believe Sunrace only makes a 13-28. IRD makes a 13-24 but it's $50 at Harris.
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I've had several Sachs in the Freewheel Spa over the winter and spring. I was so impressed I bought a 7 speed Sachs for my '83 Paramount. It runs better than any freewheel I own.
Here are 2 6 speeds I worked on. IIRC, the one on the left is 13-24.
Here are 2 6 speeds I worked on. IIRC, the one on the left is 13-24.
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#4
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I would buy an IRD 13-24t 6 speed.
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#5
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Suntour New Winner Pro
Sachs Aris
Suntour Grand Compe
Shimano 600
Or what the Honorable Colonel said IRD
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Thanks for the responses. I just ordered an IRD freewheel: just to make sure, they use the Shimano-type splined freewheel remover, right?
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That's correct.
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I live in south Louisiana, so the range provided by a 13-15-17-19-21-23 freewheel paired with 48-41 chain rings is plenty wide enough for me.
Whatever freewheel you choose, just make sure it gives you a usable shifting pattern with whatever chain rings you're using. I personally hate double shifts to get to the next gear, but that's just lazy old school me talkin'.
Whatever freewheel you choose, just make sure it gives you a usable shifting pattern with whatever chain rings you're using. I personally hate double shifts to get to the next gear, but that's just lazy old school me talkin'.
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Last edited by top506; 08-16-12 at 06:04 PM.
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Most bikes that came with 6sp freewheels will accept 7s freewheels.
There are a few exceptions, and sometimes an modern 7s chain makes the difference.
I just bought 2 of those 13-25t Sunrace freewheels, glad to see a modern-style "HG" freewheel being made with those ratios, and at a great price.
The 6-speed 13-24t Shimano 600 and "Z"-series freewheels were very common in the 1980's, so still a lot of those around in 6-speed and which shift beautifully, even in friction mode. I prefer a 7-8-speed chain with these, but even 9 works great if the chainring spacing is compatible.
There are a few exceptions, and sometimes an modern 7s chain makes the difference.
I just bought 2 of those 13-25t Sunrace freewheels, glad to see a modern-style "HG" freewheel being made with those ratios, and at a great price.
The 6-speed 13-24t Shimano 600 and "Z"-series freewheels were very common in the 1980's, so still a lot of those around in 6-speed and which shift beautifully, even in friction mode. I prefer a 7-8-speed chain with these, but even 9 works great if the chainring spacing is compatible.
#16
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Sometimes. I've swapped 6-to-7 just like that. Sometimes you have to re-dish. Give it a shot.
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Of course, you'll only have to re-dish if you re-space the axle or you perhaps found the original dish measurement to be off.
A lot of rear wheels get built (or end up with) a slight leftward offset to the rim's centerline. It's non-noticeable while riding but mkes for a stronger rear wheel. This doesn't much seem cause the front end (steering) to pull (the way it does when a front wheel is even 1mm off center).
A lot of rear wheels get built (or end up with) a slight leftward offset to the rim's centerline. It's non-noticeable while riding but mkes for a stronger rear wheel. This doesn't much seem cause the front end (steering) to pull (the way it does when a front wheel is even 1mm off center).
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I've found even Sachs might swap 7 for 6 on some bikes. When you get to the margins of frame fit some little details, like the finishing of the seatstay to dropout joining, can get in the way. Or not. It's worth your time to try it and see if it will work, and to do the slight rearrangement that will allow it to work.
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Well, not to disparage the Colonel, but the IRD turned out to be junk (and fairly expensive junk, too). After a week of use, the pawls started sticking. I PB-Blastered the heck out of it, oiled it, and reinstalled, but it started sticking again very soon. It really seems like a poor design (or poor materials) -- the Sachs freewheel it replaced never stuck once in 14 years. Will try the Sunrace 7-speed and see if it fits. Frustrating.
#21
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Return the IRD... there was a thread awhile back about problems with the initial stock of these, but I thought those had been resolved? Apparently not...
And to MiamiJim's recommendations:
Shimano Dura Ace
Shimano HG Japan made
where do you get these? Used (ebay)? How can you tell if a HG is Japan-made (without actually seeing it in person or good photos)?
And to MiamiJim's recommendations:
Shimano Dura Ace
Shimano HG Japan made
where do you get these? Used (ebay)? How can you tell if a HG is Japan-made (without actually seeing it in person or good photos)?
#22
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Right. Perhaps it was old stock. Definitely return it.
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Interesting thread. I'm still looking for something like 24-36 , LOL 'cause when my fellow riders even cast a glance upwards (as if approaching a hill ) I get dropped !! Ok, mostly joking, but I do need to give serious thought to something going up to 28 maybe...
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To get period correct builds on my early to mid 80's French bikes, I've always defaulted to Maillard/Spidel compact 6 and 7 speed FWs. I was generally satisfied with them as their mechanisms are pretty much close to indestructible/very rugged, but I do have to admit that sometimes the shifting over their grooved tipped cog teeth can be a bit imprecise and slow, with the chain sometimes riding up on the grooves for a bit before shifitng over completely to the next gear. I suspect that the already mentioned, later made Sachs FWs with their more modern tooth profiles will shift much better. So another vote for Sachs FWs from me.....
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Well, not to disparage the Colonel, but the IRD turned out to be junk (and fairly expensive junk, too). After a week of use, the pawls started sticking. I PB-Blastered the heck out of it, oiled it, and reinstalled, but it started sticking again very soon. It really seems like a poor design (or poor materials) -- the Sachs freewheel it replaced never stuck once in 14 years. Will try the Sunrace 7-speed and see if it fits. Frustrating.
You mention in your original post that the Sachs is worn out. What went wrong with it? Did the cogs show too much wear or were the internals not running smoothly? Do you still have it? If so, I'd be interested to see if I could rehab it and also the IRD (which I've never worked on). PM me and let's see if we can work something out.
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