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Old 08-15-12, 11:47 AM   #1
puchfinnland 
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campagnolo crankset noise tick-tick-tick

situation:
on the maiden voyage of my restored Ultima I started noticing a tick tick tick.
it is related to the drive side S.R. crank arm or TI pedal.
-the chainwheel is not rubbing
-it happens in low or high chainwheel

I came home and checked the nuts on the axle( campy SR TI with nuts)
the nuts were loose so I tightened them
is there an official torque spec?
I checked the 5 chainwheel bolts also

I rode today and the tick tick is still there

it only takes a very light pressure to happen.

when the right takes pressure at TDC
-must make a revolution first.

Im going to swap pedals next to see if it goes away
-process of elimination
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Old 08-15-12, 11:54 AM   #2
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Derailleur cage hitting on inside of crank arm.
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Old 08-15-12, 11:57 AM   #3
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I've had this before, and there are a variety of causes. After you check teetime's advice.....

1-check your pedal cleats, if you run clipless. if not, check the toe clips.
2-rem/reset the crank arms, but the tick in that case is often associated with a slight jerk of the crank arm, too.
3-usually, it's not the chain, but check it anyway, for a link coming apart.
4-usually, it's not the RD pulley's, but check them anyway.
5-check the seatpost binder bolt, and the saddle cradle. It may not be TDC, but where your butt is at TDC....
6-it's usually not the pedal bearing, but check it anyway.
7-it could be the BB, but not likely. with the cranks off, a good time to double-check that by rem/resetting.

Try it in different gears. If chainline makes a difference, it's probably in the bb/crankset area.
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Old 08-15-12, 11:59 AM   #4
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Do you have another set of pedals you can try, just to help narrow it down? Does the tick always happen at the same point in the crank rotation? Might also be the spindle crank interface. I had a noise that I was sure was the pedals but it went away when I removed the cranks and thoroughly cleaned the spindle and crank faces.
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Old 08-15-12, 12:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puchfinnland View Post

-the chainwheel is not rubbing
-it happens in low or high chainwheel
nothing is rubbing- its when the pedal first gets pressure after a rotation.
- i will swap the pedal to another one in the morning
- I will consider removing the crank arms and rotating them 90 degrees on the spindle.
-every surface was well lubricated in the spline.

anybody got a torque spec? Im scared to death of stripping the TI axle
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My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
(Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
Lord help me!

"Some cream crackers, a glue gun and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

Last edited by puchfinnland; 08-15-12 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 08-15-12, 12:28 PM   #6
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On my NR crankset/BB, I had switched to loose balls (can't recall how many I put in, probably the same number in a cage) and it ticked on every revolution. Went back to caged bearings...
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Old 08-15-12, 12:29 PM   #7
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I dunno, but do hairline cracks on cranskets produce ticking noises too??...... If they do, you might want to check for cracks between the crank arm and spider junctions as some Campy C&V cranks were know to develop them. You might as well check the whole crank too as they can also crack at mid arm in some cases.

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Old 08-15-12, 12:30 PM   #8
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caged bearings-new balls
campy alloy BB with hard liners

I might as well go down tonight and do a full strip down on the right arm.
hard to replicate without riding it

half a kilometer from house to asfalt, its a P i t a to find issues like this as you cant hear well with all the stones trying to puncture the tubulars!
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(Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
Lord help me!

"Some cream crackers, a glue gun and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

Last edited by puchfinnland; 08-15-12 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 08-15-12, 12:31 PM   #9
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You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

Is the fixed cup in tight? BB faced properly?
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Old 08-15-12, 12:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teetime View Post
You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

\
Why's that ?
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Old 08-15-12, 12:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teetime View Post
You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

Is the fixed cup in tight? BB faced properly?
I made sure this was done at the LBS (road bike specialist with 30 years experence)
used correct vintage tools
- I even supervised the operation,
I held the tools,
I did the work
I love my LBS

why should you not lubricate the spline???
torque spec please
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Old 08-15-12, 12:49 PM   #12
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I guess the thinking is that if you lubricate the spindle, the cranks would go into the tapers too easily and possibly causing the spindle to go into the cranks too deep and causing it to crack or the arms to bottom out on the spindle.
I never really saw the need to grease my spindle tapers and I never had any problems removing any of my cranksets from them.

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Old 08-15-12, 01:00 PM   #13
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I grease everything on my bike except for the spindle tapers.....
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Old 08-15-12, 01:23 PM   #14
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You don't lube the spindle because Campy says not to. Phil Wood is the only exception to the rule that I know of.

If anyone knew the torque spec, they'd have given it to you. Maybe this will help, found easily on the Google:

http://store.mettec.com/tech
http://www.suspensionshop.org/yonsin-nuts-and-bolts.php
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Old 08-15-12, 01:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaucho777 View Post
Do you have another set of pedals you can try, just to help narrow it down? Does the tick always happen at the same point in the crank rotation? Might also be the spindle crank interface. I had a noise that I was sure was the pedals but it went away when I removed the cranks and thoroughly cleaned the spindle and crank faces.
I would swap pedals if it is not the cage catching the crank. From the bike shop days, pedals do it more often. Have you repacked them lately?
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Old 08-15-12, 01:44 PM   #16
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back from the basement
- swapped the pedals
removed chain-tried to ride it in place(this is quite scary)
to replicate but no tick?!?!

reinstalled the TI pedals
still no tick tick
spindle nut was not all that tight...
oh well- popped the arm off, nicked the virgin new paint-#&%"!!!!!
now maybe, just maybe, there is some sight of burnishing on the taper..
looked very very carefully for any cracks-none (t.g.)

wiped out the grease on the taper, and reinstalled it
torqued it down more then before and marked the nut/spindle with a marker.

everything is repacked except the pedals-have not time yet

will ride in the morning.

cant do more today
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My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
(Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
Lord help me!

"Some cream crackers, a glue gun and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

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Old 08-15-12, 01:46 PM   #17
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^ On a similar theme to repechage and others...

Obviously, you're planning to swap the pedals anyways - which will quickly help to determine if this is a possibility:

Recently, after completely disassembling, cleaning and repacking a pair of old Suntour Sprint pedals to switch onto my bike, I noticed an irritatingly persistent 'tick-tick-tick' on the drive side. One 'tick' per revolution, always at the same point in the stroke. Turned out that I hadn't torqued down the bolts securing the pedal cages quite enough, that was the source of the sound. Tightened them down, no more 'tick-tick-tick'.

Sorry, I don't know the torque spec on the SR crank...

Just another possibility...if the pedal switch eliminates the problem, it's something to check.

EDIT: I see you swapped them, new post, but maybe still...I dunno.

Last edited by mikemowbz; 08-15-12 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 08-15-12, 02:03 PM   #18
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Sorry, I don't know the torque spec on the SR crank...
From my memory, I think that the later 80's Campagnolo tapered cranks used 45nm as the torque spec.
This is just from memory, old habits of muscle memory are hard to overcome.
Some guys really over-torqued their cranks way back, the same guys who greased the tapers and the same guys we sold single replacement arms to.
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Old 08-15-12, 04:41 PM   #19
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I've had this same problem, which was caused by a slightly loose chainring bolt that wasn't torqued down hard.
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Old 08-15-12, 04:51 PM   #20
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I've had this same problem, which was caused by a slightly loose chainring bolt that wasn't torqued down hard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by puchfinnland View Post
...
I checked the 5 chainwheel bolts also
...
From the OP, first post in thread.
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Old 08-15-12, 05:21 PM   #21
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I've usually traced the clicking noise to the pedals... drives me crazy!
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Old 08-15-12, 05:41 PM   #22
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I would guess it is the interface because there is enough evidence in this thread to support it. The bolt wasn't that tight when you checked it (and they should always be checked after the maiden voyage and 2nd and 3rd depending on length). You said you didn't tighten it that tight in the first place so I would guess it is the crank-spindle interface. Let us know how it goes, but I bet it is gone on your next ride.

In the shop of today, ticking and creaking noises almost always comes from the BB threads. The outboard bearings rock more I think and when they get some grit between the cup and the face or don't have enough grease they begin creaking. I have found that this is inevitable for high mileage riders.
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