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  1. #1
    MIKE is my name! puchfinnland's Avatar
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    campagnolo crankset noise tick-tick-tick

    situation:
    on the maiden voyage of my restored Ultima I started noticing a tick tick tick.
    it is related to the drive side S.R. crank arm or TI pedal.
    -the chainwheel is not rubbing
    -it happens in low or high chainwheel

    I came home and checked the nuts on the axle( campy SR TI with nuts)
    the nuts were loose so I tightened them
    is there an official torque spec?
    I checked the 5 chainwheel bolts also

    I rode today and the tick tick is still there

    it only takes a very light pressure to happen.

    when the right takes pressure at TDC
    -must make a revolution first.

    Im going to swap pedals next to see if it goes away
    -process of elimination
    My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
    (Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
    Lord help me!

    "Some cream crackers, a glue *** and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

  2. #2
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    Derailleur cage hitting on inside of crank arm.

  3. #3
    Senior Member RobbieTunes's Avatar
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    I've had this before, and there are a variety of causes. After you check teetime's advice.....

    1-check your pedal cleats, if you run clipless. if not, check the toe clips.
    2-rem/reset the crank arms, but the tick in that case is often associated with a slight jerk of the crank arm, too.
    3-usually, it's not the chain, but check it anyway, for a link coming apart.
    4-usually, it's not the RD pulley's, but check them anyway.
    5-check the seatpost binder bolt, and the saddle cradle. It may not be TDC, but where your butt is at TDC....
    6-it's usually not the pedal bearing, but check it anyway.
    7-it could be the BB, but not likely. with the cranks off, a good time to double-check that by rem/resetting.

    Try it in different gears. If chainline makes a difference, it's probably in the bb/crankset area.

    Robbie ♪♫♪...☻

    I'm not a doctor, but I watch them on TV.

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  4. #4
    Senior Member gaucho777's Avatar
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    Do you have another set of pedals you can try, just to help narrow it down? Does the tick always happen at the same point in the crank rotation? Might also be the spindle crank interface. I had a noise that I was sure was the pedals but it went away when I removed the cranks and thoroughly cleaned the spindle and crank faces.
    -Randy

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  5. #5
    MIKE is my name! puchfinnland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by puchfinnland View Post

    -the chainwheel is not rubbing
    -it happens in low or high chainwheel
    nothing is rubbing- its when the pedal first gets pressure after a rotation.
    - i will swap the pedal to another one in the morning
    - I will consider removing the crank arms and rotating them 90 degrees on the spindle.
    -every surface was well lubricated in the spline.

    anybody got a torque spec? Im scared to death of stripping the TI axle
    Last edited by puchfinnland; 08-15-12 at 01:10 PM.
    My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
    (Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
    Lord help me!

    "Some cream crackers, a glue *** and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

  6. #6
    Senior Member Pars's Avatar
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    On my NR crankset/BB, I had switched to loose balls (can't recall how many I put in, probably the same number in a cage) and it ticked on every revolution. Went back to caged bearings...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    I dunno, but do hairline cracks on cranskets produce ticking noises too??...... If they do, you might want to check for cracks between the crank arm and spider junctions as some Campy C&V cranks were know to develop them. You might as well check the whole crank too as they can also crack at mid arm in some cases.

    Chombi

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    MIKE is my name! puchfinnland's Avatar
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    caged bearings-new balls
    campy alloy BB with hard liners

    I might as well go down tonight and do a full strip down on the right arm.
    hard to replicate without riding it

    half a kilometer from house to asfalt, its a P i t a to find issues like this as you cant hear well with all the stones trying to puncture the tubulars!
    Last edited by puchfinnland; 08-15-12 at 01:34 PM.
    My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
    (Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
    Lord help me!

    "Some cream crackers, a glue *** and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

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    You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

    Is the fixed cup in tight? BB faced properly?

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    Senior Member sauze's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teetime View Post
    You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

    \
    Why's that ?

  11. #11
    MIKE is my name! puchfinnland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teetime View Post
    You should not lubricate the spindle surfaces on a Campagnolo BB.

    Is the fixed cup in tight? BB faced properly?
    I made sure this was done at the LBS (road bike specialist with 30 years experence)
    used correct vintage tools
    - I even supervised the operation,
    I held the tools,
    I did the work
    I love my LBS

    why should you not lubricate the spline???
    torque spec please
    My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
    (Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
    Lord help me!

    "Some cream crackers, a glue *** and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

  12. #12
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    I guess the thinking is that if you lubricate the spindle, the cranks would go into the tapers too easily and possibly causing the spindle to go into the cranks too deep and causing it to crack or the arms to bottom out on the spindle.
    I never really saw the need to grease my spindle tapers and I never had any problems removing any of my cranksets from them.

    Chombi

  13. #13
    Senior Member bibliobob's Avatar
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    I grease everything on my bike except for the spindle tapers.....
    I grow old, I grow old. I shall wear the bottoms of my trousers rolled.

  14. #14
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    You don't lube the spindle because Campy says not to. Phil Wood is the only exception to the rule that I know of.

    If anyone knew the torque spec, they'd have given it to you. Maybe this will help, found easily on the Google:

    http://store.mettec.com/tech
    http://www.suspensionshop.org/yonsin-nuts-and-bolts.php

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    Quote Originally Posted by gaucho777 View Post
    Do you have another set of pedals you can try, just to help narrow it down? Does the tick always happen at the same point in the crank rotation? Might also be the spindle crank interface. I had a noise that I was sure was the pedals but it went away when I removed the cranks and thoroughly cleaned the spindle and crank faces.
    I would swap pedals if it is not the cage catching the crank. From the bike shop days, pedals do it more often. Have you repacked them lately?

  16. #16
    MIKE is my name! puchfinnland's Avatar
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    back from the basement
    - swapped the pedals
    removed chain-tried to ride it in place(this is quite scary)
    to replicate but no tick?!?!

    reinstalled the TI pedals
    still no tick tick
    spindle nut was not all that tight...
    oh well- popped the arm off, nicked the virgin new paint-#&%"!!!!!
    now maybe, just maybe, there is some sight of burnishing on the taper..
    looked very very carefully for any cracks-none (t.g.)

    wiped out the grease on the taper, and reinstalled it
    torqued it down more then before and marked the nut/spindle with a marker.

    everything is repacked except the pedals-have not time yet

    will ride in the morning.

    cant do more today
    Last edited by puchfinnland; 08-15-12 at 02:48 PM.
    My name is Michael, and I am a recovering bike addict, It has been 11 months since I purchased a bicycle for myself..
    (Im bound to fall off the wagon again, its just a matter of time)
    Lord help me!

    "Some cream crackers, a glue *** and a little imagination can turn any domestic cat into a fearsome Stegosaurus."

  17. #17
    Senior Member mikemowbz's Avatar
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    ^ On a similar theme to repechage and others...

    Obviously, you're planning to swap the pedals anyways - which will quickly help to determine if this is a possibility:

    Recently, after completely disassembling, cleaning and repacking a pair of old Suntour Sprint pedals to switch onto my bike, I noticed an irritatingly persistent 'tick-tick-tick' on the drive side. One 'tick' per revolution, always at the same point in the stroke. Turned out that I hadn't torqued down the bolts securing the pedal cages quite enough, that was the source of the sound. Tightened them down, no more 'tick-tick-tick'.

    Sorry, I don't know the torque spec on the SR crank...

    Just another possibility...if the pedal switch eliminates the problem, it's something to check.

    EDIT: I see you swapped them, new post, but maybe still...I dunno.
    Last edited by mikemowbz; 08-15-12 at 02:51 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemowbz View Post
    Sorry, I don't know the torque spec on the SR crank...
    From my memory, I think that the later 80's Campagnolo tapered cranks used 45nm as the torque spec.
    This is just from memory, old habits of muscle memory are hard to overcome.
    Some guys really over-torqued their cranks way back, the same guys who greased the tapers and the same guys we sold single replacement arms to.

  19. #19
    RFC
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    I've had this same problem, which was caused by a slightly loose chainring bolt that wasn't torqued down hard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RFC View Post
    I've had this same problem, which was caused by a slightly loose chainring bolt that wasn't torqued down hard.
    Quote Originally Posted by puchfinnland View Post
    ...
    I checked the 5 chainwheel bolts also
    ...
    From the OP, first post in thread.

  21. #21
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    I've usually traced the clicking noise to the pedals... drives me crazy!

  22. #22
    Senior Member cyclotoine's Avatar
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    I would guess it is the interface because there is enough evidence in this thread to support it. The bolt wasn't that tight when you checked it (and they should always be checked after the maiden voyage and 2nd and 3rd depending on length). You said you didn't tighten it that tight in the first place so I would guess it is the crank-spindle interface. Let us know how it goes, but I bet it is gone on your next ride.

    In the shop of today, ticking and creaking noises almost always comes from the BB threads. The outboard bearings rock more I think and when they get some grit between the cup and the face or don't have enough grease they begin creaking. I have found that this is inevitable for high mileage riders.
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