Noob with a Newly acquired Bike, identifying a Claud Butler
#1
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Noob with a Newly acquired Bike, identifying a Claud Butler
Hello there guys, acquired this bike from my Grandad some time ago but only have got it out recently.
its a bit of a shed to look at with a bit of surface rust, but I think has some charm and id like to ride if I can.
would love to know how old it is what model ect. can only see Renyolds name on the forks? and the usual CB emblems
I hope the pics are visible, be gentle
#2
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I'm not really familiar with Claud Butlers. Unfortunately, it looks as though this bike has been in a front end collision that has bent the fork, top tube and the down tube.
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#3
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thanks for the reply, yea i saw some damage, it still feels sound and took my weight but would riding it not be worth the risk?
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It can probably hold your weight; but are you a gambler?
More to the point, a collision like this changes the shape of the bicycle. A big part of the way the bike handles, when you're riding it, depends on the angle of the fork. The designer selects that angle for ideal handling. The collision changed that angle, and in all likelihood the bike won't handle very well now. Look at the distance between the down tube of the frame (near the shifter) and the front wheel; it barely clears. Can you pedal it without your foot hitting the front wheel when you steer?
It can be straightened, and returned to the original shape, but this will further weaken the frame. Will it still be safe to ride?
Are you a gambler?
More to the point, a collision like this changes the shape of the bicycle. A big part of the way the bike handles, when you're riding it, depends on the angle of the fork. The designer selects that angle for ideal handling. The collision changed that angle, and in all likelihood the bike won't handle very well now. Look at the distance between the down tube of the frame (near the shifter) and the front wheel; it barely clears. Can you pedal it without your foot hitting the front wheel when you steer?
It can be straightened, and returned to the original shape, but this will further weaken the frame. Will it still be safe to ride?
Are you a gambler?
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for some reason I can see all but the first pic, which I assume shows the front-end collision damage.
I'd take it to a good shop or frame builder (one who can straighten steel frames) and let them assess it...go get a 2nd opinion, too.
That will reduce the amount of "gambling" involved...steel frames are generally much more resilient and less failure-prone after flexing than aluminum alloy or carbon-fiber frames. But anything has a limit...a good experienced builder knows what that is.
I'd take it to a good shop or frame builder (one who can straighten steel frames) and let them assess it...go get a 2nd opinion, too.
That will reduce the amount of "gambling" involved...steel frames are generally much more resilient and less failure-prone after flexing than aluminum alloy or carbon-fiber frames. But anything has a limit...a good experienced builder knows what that is.
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Looks like the down tibe is crimped just below the headtube, that kinda smells like death If it's not crimped, the frame can be straighten and riden with some level of confidence. A steel frame won't snap but fail to hold it's shape. Once straightened, if that can be done, you'd have to monitor the frame for movement. But that down tube looks like toast. It could be replaced, but that would cost more than the value of the bike. maybe the best thing to do is move the parts over to anothr frame?
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cheers for the input guys much appreciated, yea its a shame it was going to be my temporary project. hopefully I can find a good reputable shop around my neck of the woods to assess it.
the hardware seems in good nick too all original I think, so a donor frame may be the way to go, but its finding one.
anyone know how to find the age of her?
the hardware seems in good nick too all original I think, so a donor frame may be the way to go, but its finding one.
anyone know how to find the age of her?
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I'd like to see a closeup of that bend. If it hasn't cracked or separated from a lug, I would use the Park frame aligner to bend it back. I did it on my Nishiki with similar damage and it held up and tracked just fine.
But, it's still a gamble.
But, it's still a gamble.
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close up, its a shame because it looks old ish, and the original frame. don't know too much about CB's history
#12
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Ooo. That's bad, man.
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#13
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Give it a try.
I rencently had a worse case and being a 1938 bike, I wanted to save it.
It took me 10 minutes
https://nsm05.casimages.com/img/2012/...1319962869.jpg
And now...
https://nsm05.casimages.com/img/2012/...3110131515.jpg
It rides perfectly
I rencently had a worse case and being a 1938 bike, I wanted to save it.
It took me 10 minutes
https://nsm05.casimages.com/img/2012/...1319962869.jpg
And now...
https://nsm05.casimages.com/img/2012/...3110131515.jpg
It rides perfectly
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That bike frame could still make for a good "wall hanger" to honor your Grandad if it cannot be fixed.
It might give his ancestors an idea of his "wild side" in his younger days that included such "harrowing excitement" on that bike.
Chombi
It might give his ancestors an idea of his "wild side" in his younger days that included such "harrowing excitement" on that bike.
Chombi
#15
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I'd imagine this could be repaired no ? It might not be cheap , and you'd probably loose some paint , still I'd think worth it.
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Thanks again for the input guys. Yea I think im a bit sentimental about it now I have it out and cleaned her up a bit.
how would I go about doing that Munny? I'm strong but not that strong
A hammer and a hard surface was all my car needed?
And that's a good shout Chombi, never thought of that. Maybe a worst case eh
Smudge
how would I go about doing that Munny? I'm strong but not that strong
A hammer and a hard surface was all my car needed?
And that's a good shout Chombi, never thought of that. Maybe a worst case eh
Smudge
#17
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You don't need to be that strong. You just need to dare.
On my bike, the tube was crimped. The aluminium mudgard was even against the tube. This is why I heated the tube, to allow it to ease finding back the original shape.
The day before, (bike just purchased) I showed it to J. Van Genk, one of the best ever Belgian bike builder. He told me that we could try and to come back with the fork dismantled.
But as soon as I had dismantled it, I tried by myself and was asthonished by the result.
Don't push too much at the begining.
On my bike, the tube was crimped. The aluminium mudgard was even against the tube. This is why I heated the tube, to allow it to ease finding back the original shape.
The day before, (bike just purchased) I showed it to J. Van Genk, one of the best ever Belgian bike builder. He told me that we could try and to come back with the fork dismantled.
But as soon as I had dismantled it, I tried by myself and was asthonished by the result.
Don't push too much at the begining.
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The cave man method for straightening a frame like this is remarkably simple.
You have to remove the fork; and it's better to also remove the crank and bottom bracket bearings.
You place a strong metal bar through the steerer tube (where the fork was); it has to be long enough that two or three feet extend down where the fork was. And if you took the bottom bracket bearings out, you also put a strong metal bar through there. A half way measure is to take off one crank arm and rotate it around so the two pedals line up. That's probably what you should do.
Now you sit down on the floor. Put your feet on the bar through the bottom bracket, or on the pedals if you didn't take the crank off; and hold the head tube bar in both hands. Push with your feet, pull with your hands, and watch the frame go back to the correct shape. Pull it all the way to the right shape, or a little farther since it will spring back a bit.
I have done this successfully once, and unsuccessfully once. The success was with hi-ten steel; as I watched, it went right back to the correct shape; it was remarkably easy. But the 531 as only slightly bent, so only needed a slight correction; I was a bit afraid of bending it too far, and as a result did not bend at all. Yours being a fairly significant bend, I am pretty sure you will be able to make it a lot better. Probably not perfect, though.
You have to remove the fork; and it's better to also remove the crank and bottom bracket bearings.
You place a strong metal bar through the steerer tube (where the fork was); it has to be long enough that two or three feet extend down where the fork was. And if you took the bottom bracket bearings out, you also put a strong metal bar through there. A half way measure is to take off one crank arm and rotate it around so the two pedals line up. That's probably what you should do.
Now you sit down on the floor. Put your feet on the bar through the bottom bracket, or on the pedals if you didn't take the crank off; and hold the head tube bar in both hands. Push with your feet, pull with your hands, and watch the frame go back to the correct shape. Pull it all the way to the right shape, or a little farther since it will spring back a bit.
I have done this successfully once, and unsuccessfully once. The success was with hi-ten steel; as I watched, it went right back to the correct shape; it was remarkably easy. But the 531 as only slightly bent, so only needed a slight correction; I was a bit afraid of bending it too far, and as a result did not bend at all. Yours being a fairly significant bend, I am pretty sure you will be able to make it a lot better. Probably not perfect, though.
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Rhm, I'm slightly disappointed in your method. I was counting on it involving 12 feet of chain and a pick up truck.
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Very late thread update! whats that nearly 2 years! Sorry all if anyone's still there for disappearing.
Finally getting round to doing this, have sourced a new viking frame from a similar era (1960-70 maybe). Its in a shop getting blasted and enameled.
Cannibalizing all the parts from the old CB above, still very sentimental as it was my Grandfathers. Seems to have sparked a little hobby!
Not to sure what i can keep or renew yet, getting help from a small LBS who will do the rebuild.
All the best,
Connor
Finally getting round to doing this, have sourced a new viking frame from a similar era (1960-70 maybe). Its in a shop getting blasted and enameled.
Cannibalizing all the parts from the old CB above, still very sentimental as it was my Grandfathers. Seems to have sparked a little hobby!
Not to sure what i can keep or renew yet, getting help from a small LBS who will do the rebuild.
All the best,
Connor
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Wow...took a while to get around to it!
But...clean that CB frame up and put it on the wall...it is a gorgeous frame...and an ode to your grandfather...
But...clean that CB frame up and put it on the wall...it is a gorgeous frame...and an ode to your grandfather...
#22
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Did you ever determine the yr for the CB ?
And please, post some pics of the replacement bike!
Stick around, we enjoy helping people with their hobby...
And please, post some pics of the replacement bike!
Stick around, we enjoy helping people with their hobby...
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Very late thread update! whats that nearly 2 years! Sorry all if anyone's still there for disappearing.
Finally getting round to doing this, have sourced a new viking frame from a similar era (1960-70 maybe). Its in a shop getting blasted and enameled.
Cannibalizing all the parts from the old CB above, still very sentimental as it was my Grandfathers. Seems to have sparked a little hobby!
Not to sure what i can keep or renew yet, getting help from a small LBS who will do the rebuild.
All the best,
Connor
Finally getting round to doing this, have sourced a new viking frame from a similar era (1960-70 maybe). Its in a shop getting blasted and enameled.
Cannibalizing all the parts from the old CB above, still very sentimental as it was my Grandfathers. Seems to have sparked a little hobby!
Not to sure what i can keep or renew yet, getting help from a small LBS who will do the rebuild.
All the best,
Connor
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Definitely appreciate the update, and eager to see how this goes.
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Did you ever try the whole bending the frame back thing? Now that you have the replacement frame anyway, if it goes wrong, you haven't lost anything, but, if it works, you've got your grandfather's frame in working shape again.
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