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  1. #1
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    Cleaning anodized parts.

    What are you using to clean up high zoot cnc cranks and anodized parts?

  2. #2
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Problem sometimes is that some corrosion can get under the anodizing and you cannot really take the finish damage off the component unless you strip the anodizing off and polishing the bare aluminum. Bet there are cases where the finish damage is on the surface, on the layer of anodizings. It is usually har do take of shopwear or riding nicks and scratches on such because of the very hard nature of the anodizing that does not really take to polishing with compounds and cleaners that well, but I did discover this last winter with two of my cranksets, that you can remove most of it with a good amount of elbow grease and the mildest of polishing compounds. The trick is to be careful not to polish out the anodizing all together but polish it enough to get most of the scratches and marks you are trying to eliminate. It won't be 100% perfect, but you'd be surprised how much you can take off and still maintain the anodizing on the component. I save a few NOS components already since that first one that had a bit of shopwear on them and they now look NOS after my careful cleaning.

    Chombi

  3. #3
    billy chuck eschlwc's Avatar
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    i've had no regrets stripping the anodization from components using oven cleaner. you can then polish them easily by wet sanding and mother's polish.

    rims are another matter...

  4. #4
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    +1 on taking the coating off and polishing. I love the look of my polished campy parts
    Semper fi

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    I think you are missing the point of my question . I am not talking about damaged parts, just dirty greasy parts. I just want a cleaner that will cut the grease, polish up the shine without damaging or scratching the finish . Case in point is simple green is reported to damage aluminum parts.
    Last edited by Fred Smedley; 08-30-12 at 02:33 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member JPZ66's Avatar
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    Simple Green may damage BARE aluminum, but I haven't seen it have any affect on the anodizing. I don't let it sit though...spray on, wipe off pretty quickly. For really grimey stuff, I use WD-40 sometimes, as it cuts thru the grease easy.

    Joe

  7. #7
    incazzare. lostarchitect's Avatar
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    Simple green works fine, just rinse it off after you clean the parts.
    1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson) San Remo Plus, 1989 Trek 520, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter

  8. #8
    Senior Member Captain Blight's Avatar
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    Kleen-Strip turpentine. Nothing but pine tree distillates. Anodizing-friendly, good solvent on grease and smells pleasant.
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    Depends on the amount of dirt/grease I guess, but I just use a toothbrush and Dawn dishwashing liquid. At worst, I've had to soak the parts in hot soapy water overnight.

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    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    If it's just dirt and grease then......WD40, an old soft bristled toothbrush, Lemon Pledge, some elbow grease, and plenty of paper towels and/or rags....Done!

    Chombi

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    Anodized parts should easily wipe clean with any household cleaner. Simple Green works great. It can damage anodizing, but only if left on for a long period of time or if the parts are soaked in it. Spraying it on and wiping it off will not cause any damage.

  12. #12
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    I am not into polishing things to a high mirror finish that have been anodized. I normall use just Simple Green and old bottle and toothbrush. I am not normally riding in the rain so I don't worry too much about corrision after I have cleaned things up.
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bianchigirll View Post
    I am not into polishing things to a high mirror finish that have been anodized. I normall use just Simple Green and old bottle and toothbrush. I am not normally riding in the rain so I don't worry too much about corrision after I have cleaned things up.
    I normally just just simple green my cassette and car wash liquid the rest, the reason for this thread is I have a Grafton and a Kooka crankset I want to Ebay so I want do clean them up real nice, The Kooka is pretty intricate with maroon fades and feather inlays so I wanted to be extra careful.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Chombi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fred Smedley View Post
    I normally just just simple green my cassette and car wash liquid the rest, the reason for this thread is I have a Grafton and a Kooka crankset I want to Ebay so I want do clean them up real nice, The Kooka is pretty intricate with maroon fades and feather inlays so I wanted to be extra careful.
    Wouldn't WD40 be actually milder on the finishes than Simple Green??

    Chombi

  15. #15
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I normally use mineral spirits (paint thinner) and then wash with Dawn dish soap. Dawn is great stuff. Car guys recommend it, too.

    WD-40 works well, but it's an expensive way to clean parts. I use it to blast the gunk out of hard to reach places.

    My wife believes in replacing toothbrushes often and I get all of the old ones.
    Last edited by Grand Bois; 08-30-12 at 06:43 PM.

  16. #16
    Schwinnasaur Schwinnsta's Avatar
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    I usually run into anodized finish more on steel components such as spokes and kickstands and such. I hesitate to remove it because it acts as a sacrificial anode to prevent rust. Eventually anodizing will fail, that is its nature. Usually anodized steel spokes are the weak link in old bikes because of spokes corroding and failing. So if the bike is a keeper, I replace all the spokes either with new anodized spokes or stainless steel.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    I'm sorry, but steel parts are not anodized. Just aluminum. Perhaps you're thinking of galvanization.

  18. #18
    Rustbelt Rider mkeller234's Avatar
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    I've used rubbing alcohol with good results, dissipates quickly too. Be carful around screen printed logos if you want to keep them.
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  19. #19
    Bianchi Goddess Bianchigirll's Avatar
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    Kooka? People still know what that is?
    Bianchis '87 Sport SX, '90 Proto (2), '91 Boarala 'cross, '93 Project 3, '88 Trofeo, '86 Volpe, '89 Axis, '79 Mixte SOLD, '99 Mega Pro XL Ti, '97 Ti Megatube, , '90 something Vento 603,

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  20. #20
    Hello zebede's Avatar
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    glass cleaner

    besides it has many other uses

    hand cleaner
    wound antiseptic
    etc...

  21. #21
    Senior Member rootboy's Avatar
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    I go with Dawn. And/or, the Cap'n Blight's suggestion of Turpentine. Dawn is cheaper and cuts grease well.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Shimagnolo's Avatar
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    Simple Green for serious cleaning when the parts are *off* the bike.
    A soft rag dampened with automotive bug & tar remover for wiping off parts *on* the bike.

  23. #23
    incazzare. lostarchitect's Avatar
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    Hey, look, ask and you shall receive!

    WD-40 has a new line of bike specific products:

    http://gizmodo.com/5939583/finally-w...ruin-your-bike
    1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson) San Remo Plus, 1989 Trek 520, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter

  24. #24
    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostarchitect View Post
    Simple green works fine, just rinse it off after you clean the parts.
    As long as you don't use it in a ultrasonic cleaner. I have ruined a couple of anodized parts that way. Anymore, its the ultrasonic cleaner with Dawn dishwashing detergent, or hand cleaning with an old toothbrush and WD40.
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