New UO-18 mixte owner with questions
09-12-12, 04:35 PM
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New UO-18 mixte owner with questions
Hi, we got my Wife a pretty green Peugeot that near as I can tell is an early 70's UO-18.
She is completely in love with it, paid $50 for it in semi-rideable condition, and I'm learning pretty quickly how to fix bicycles.
I've got two hangup's thus far.
One, wheels. I found a nice chrome steel front locally with a nice English hub with good bearings, and it's pretty straight unlike the original one, but the rear is a problem to find thus far. The bearings seem alright when I re-greased them, the freewheel and cassette seem healthy, would it be wise to just have this wheel rebuilt locally with new spokes and a new rim of some sort? Durability and appearance are more an issue than weight, so chrome steel would be preferable. I think. And this is Santa Barbara, it rarely rains here.
If I could just buy a new set front and rear for a reasonable sum I would but they aren't just jumping out at me. My understanding is the spacing of the rear dropout is particular to these bikes so I can't stick just any rear hub/wheel in there.
On a related wheel-note, she's blown two tubes so far. They were not pinch flats, were not the valve stem part of the tube hung up, and the spokes are not poking into the tube. It looks like from reading and observing (as the last one blew in my face, ouch), that you just can't run high pressure with current tires on these wheels. I've settled into 70psi and so far so good, but haven't been very far. Higher pressure on modern wheels would be nice I suppose. Currently 27x1 and 1/4 on there btw.
Second is the crank! Someone, somehow, BENT the right crank arm both inward, as in the pedal is angled down and the bottom of it's stroke, stripped the pedal threads or cross threaded that one somehow, AND it's curved in the direction force is applied when peddling. I cleaned and re-tapped the pedal hole and it tightened up with some locktite for good measure. I bent the crank-arm such that the pedal is horizontal in use again. It's ride-able but not ideal, and I have a funny feeling these cranks are just soft metal, it wasn't hard to bend back as I thought it should have been. On top of that, who knows when the BB was last greased, so I have to take the thing apart at some point.
Question is, should I find another cottered crank set, upgrade to something else, etc? I'm not unfamiliar with BB width's and chainline and crankset-ery at this point from playing with a couple other project bikes, but I'm suspicious of the old French bike.
Beyond that it's a lovely bike. I ran new cables, adjusted and lubed the derailleurs, hated the front one, found a brand new rear by luck and socked it away for later, put some really inappropriate looking brake pads on the Mafac Racers for the time being, and it rides pretty well. It's also the only bike out of three in the house now that I can make the brakes be quiet on. Other than the rear zinnniinngggg from the textured rim side.
I like old bikes so far, I'm burnt out on old cars.
She is completely in love with it, paid $50 for it in semi-rideable condition, and I'm learning pretty quickly how to fix bicycles.
I've got two hangup's thus far.
One, wheels. I found a nice chrome steel front locally with a nice English hub with good bearings, and it's pretty straight unlike the original one, but the rear is a problem to find thus far. The bearings seem alright when I re-greased them, the freewheel and cassette seem healthy, would it be wise to just have this wheel rebuilt locally with new spokes and a new rim of some sort? Durability and appearance are more an issue than weight, so chrome steel would be preferable. I think. And this is Santa Barbara, it rarely rains here.
If I could just buy a new set front and rear for a reasonable sum I would but they aren't just jumping out at me. My understanding is the spacing of the rear dropout is particular to these bikes so I can't stick just any rear hub/wheel in there.
On a related wheel-note, she's blown two tubes so far. They were not pinch flats, were not the valve stem part of the tube hung up, and the spokes are not poking into the tube. It looks like from reading and observing (as the last one blew in my face, ouch), that you just can't run high pressure with current tires on these wheels. I've settled into 70psi and so far so good, but haven't been very far. Higher pressure on modern wheels would be nice I suppose. Currently 27x1 and 1/4 on there btw.
Second is the crank! Someone, somehow, BENT the right crank arm both inward, as in the pedal is angled down and the bottom of it's stroke, stripped the pedal threads or cross threaded that one somehow, AND it's curved in the direction force is applied when peddling. I cleaned and re-tapped the pedal hole and it tightened up with some locktite for good measure. I bent the crank-arm such that the pedal is horizontal in use again. It's ride-able but not ideal, and I have a funny feeling these cranks are just soft metal, it wasn't hard to bend back as I thought it should have been. On top of that, who knows when the BB was last greased, so I have to take the thing apart at some point.
Question is, should I find another cottered crank set, upgrade to something else, etc? I'm not unfamiliar with BB width's and chainline and crankset-ery at this point from playing with a couple other project bikes, but I'm suspicious of the old French bike.
Beyond that it's a lovely bike. I ran new cables, adjusted and lubed the derailleurs, hated the front one, found a brand new rear by luck and socked it away for later, put some really inappropriate looking brake pads on the Mafac Racers for the time being, and it rides pretty well. It's also the only bike out of three in the house now that I can make the brakes be quiet on. Other than the rear zinnniinngggg from the textured rim side.
I like old bikes so far, I'm burnt out on old cars.
09-12-12, 04:57 PM
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If you really want the correct replacement 27" steel basket weave Rigida rim, I'm sure you can find one, though you may have to dig around a landfill - or some C&V guy's basement, which is the same thing. I think I have a used pair sitting around my garage.
I'd suggest an inexpensive, sturdy aluminum alloy rim, like a Sun CR18. Cost maybe $40 for a pair. Won't make that buzzing noise when braking. Will allow your wife to stop in the rain, which she may not often need to do, but when she does, it may be a life and death thing. Will also allow tires to hold >80 psi without blowing off. And will allow 700C rims (the MAFAC brakes will reach) which means better tire selection than 27". Wheel strength is more a matter of spoke tension than rim material, there isn't any real advantage to steel rims. Alloy rims are easier to true, and weight a lot less. Clean up and repack the Normandy hubs, they are pretty nice. Lace new rims to those hubs, wheelbuilding is not hard and quite fun.
You actually could stick any wheel in there, just get the frame spread to 130mm. But the only reason to do that is to stick more gears in there, which means changing out the drivetrain, not really what you had in mind.
I'd leave the crank as is, if it is pretty much straight and pedals fine. Your wife is not going to break it with sheer leg power. Eventually, you will find that same crank in a bike co-op bin for $5 and you can replace it. You will also eventually run across a square-taper spindle that can drop in to replace the existing cottered spindle (carry the measurements for the latter in your wallet), it will cost $5, and then you can replace the crank with something alloy, if you want to.
I've fixed up my daughter's UO-8 and my old/my son's G50, they are fun bikes. Yours has fenders, lights, etc? Post a picture or maybe add it to the "UO8 Appreciation Thread".
I'd suggest an inexpensive, sturdy aluminum alloy rim, like a Sun CR18. Cost maybe $40 for a pair. Won't make that buzzing noise when braking. Will allow your wife to stop in the rain, which she may not often need to do, but when she does, it may be a life and death thing. Will also allow tires to hold >80 psi without blowing off. And will allow 700C rims (the MAFAC brakes will reach) which means better tire selection than 27". Wheel strength is more a matter of spoke tension than rim material, there isn't any real advantage to steel rims. Alloy rims are easier to true, and weight a lot less. Clean up and repack the Normandy hubs, they are pretty nice. Lace new rims to those hubs, wheelbuilding is not hard and quite fun.
You actually could stick any wheel in there, just get the frame spread to 130mm. But the only reason to do that is to stick more gears in there, which means changing out the drivetrain, not really what you had in mind.
I'd leave the crank as is, if it is pretty much straight and pedals fine. Your wife is not going to break it with sheer leg power. Eventually, you will find that same crank in a bike co-op bin for $5 and you can replace it. You will also eventually run across a square-taper spindle that can drop in to replace the existing cottered spindle (carry the measurements for the latter in your wallet), it will cost $5, and then you can replace the crank with something alloy, if you want to.
I've fixed up my daughter's UO-8 and my old/my son's G50, they are fun bikes. Yours has fenders, lights, etc? Post a picture or maybe add it to the "UO8 Appreciation Thread".
Last edited by jyl; 09-12-12 at 05:01 PM.
09-12-12, 05:16 PM
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+1 on leaving the crank if it is basically good while it can be done using the the right length spindle and loose balls and nicer used alloy crank set it is a major pita and a nice new sealed cartridge BB and cranks to fit match the bike while available are pretty expensive option for a bike like this.
