bro

Hi y'all. I have an '81 Schwinn World Tourist, made in Taiwan by Giant. I'm replacing everything on it. I can't seem to find any info on the web about whether it uses an ISO or JIS headset. I don't have much money, so I don't want to order the wrong thing. So, does anybody know which I should get - 26.4 or 27 - for the crown race inside diameter? It's pretty stuck in there, and I don't really want to remove it right now to measure because I don't know how accurately I could measure it anyway.. plus I'm riding the bike currently, as it's my only one.

Also, I've decided I'm ordering a 26mm seatpost for it, and a 68mm JIS BB. The original seatpost wasn't present, and the replacement one that it came with was a tight fit but no size marked. I measured as many things as I could and did lots of research. The bike originally had an internally geared 3-speed hub, and a 122mm JIS BB spindle. im ordering a wheelset with a 1-speed Shimano coaster brake hub, and a JIS crankset. I know I might have to try out a couple different spindles to get the chainline right, but with the similar hubs and cranksets, should I just go with a 122 again? I'm wondering if I should try a smaller spindle in hopes of getting it right the first time. I know the bottom bracket spindle length/chainline question is almost impossible to answer, I just figured I'd ask in case someone has done this before.

Does anyone else have one of these frames? I don't want to order the wrong headset. And if anyone does own one and has ANY info they can provide on it and it's specifications, that'd be great.

Thanks

ColonelJLloyd 

I have a 1981 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8 built in Japan by Panasonic. It takes a .833" quill stem and originally had a BMX type headset. I recently replaced the headset and can confirm that the crown race is 26.4mm.

Is the original BB damaged or excessively worn? Chainline should be fine with the existing spindle so if it's in ok shape, just reuse it.

bro

Cool, and that bike had thinner tubing so I'm almost 100% positive on getting the ISO/26.4 headset. thanks.

The cranks are steel and stuck to the BB, I've tried using the tie rod separator(pickle fork)+mallet technique, I've tried taking the nuts off and oiling the spindle and riding around to try and loosen the cranks. Nothing. They're totally fused, haha. The threads don't look perfect so I don't want to buy a crank puller only to strip the crank puller. Probably going to saw the cranks off, hence why I might need a new bottom bracket. Kinda just want all new stuff anyway.

bro

Probably going to grip on this headset:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tange-Levin-...item3cc684f0b9

Hope it fits. But really, does anyone have one of these bikes so I can be absolutely sure? Anybody got a Schwinn frame with at least the same tubing? It's the "xtra-lite" type made by Giant in Taiwan. 1981, but I think they're the same up to '83. I know it's kind of a crappy bike but there's gotta be a chance somebody on here has one or at least another early 80s Taiwanese Schwinn and replaced the headset... If not, I'll just let this thread die, haha. It doesn't have a very appealing title, anyway.

Grand Bois

It has a steel cotterless crank?

ColonelJLloyd 

Indeed.

OP, if you are changing the crankset then the spindle length is determined by that particular crankset. The inexpensive Shimano UN cartridge BBs are a good value for this application.

bro

Thanks for the info. Okay, so I was going to get a cheap crankset ($50) and discovered they're basically all junk. Decided to buy a nicer one(probably too nice for the bike haha) used on ebay. Was looking at SR, Sugino, etc. If I get a used Dura Ace crankset, would that help with any bottom bracket suggestions? I was checking out the Shimano UN55... what about Tange BBs? Right now my rear dropout spacing is like 123. Thinking about cold-setting it like this -
https://www.bikecommuters.com/2007/11...for-old-bikes/
- to 110. then im thinking of giving a 110 shimano BB a shot.

ColonelJLloyd 

You need to do a little more research. The spindle length and rear dropout spacing are not directly related. You don't need to cold set the stays; adding equal spacers to both sides of your coaster hub is much easier and predictable.

bro

ahhhh. i figured they were related cause the spindle was 122 and so was the rear spacing.. i'll just figure it out. thanks for all the advice. im gonna let this thread sink for real haha