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Old 01-07-13, 07:52 AM   #1
Zieleman
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Drillium Dude Wannabe

Being inspired by the beautiful work by DD and the presence of a lend Dremel a some time on my hands, I thought I'd give it shot.

Some left-over campy dt-shifters:


They're definitely not perfect, but I forgot to follow DD's posted instructions step-by-step.

Last edited by Zieleman; 01-07-13 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 01-07-13, 08:09 AM   #2
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What do they look like on the "right" side?

A good first go, but IMO you need to get rid of the P's (probably easier at the beginning)
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Old 01-07-13, 09:02 AM   #3
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A for effort, but don't quit your day job yet.
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Old 01-07-13, 09:08 AM   #4
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Don't give up your day job.

Sorry to be negative, but the result of your work looks amateurish, poorly planned and unfinished. That said, no one expects perfection from a novice. If it is in you to keep at it, do so and your skill level will increase. Be prepared to make a mistake or two, as you learn. My guess is that Drillium Dude did not get it perfect, the first time out of the gate, either.

I have built lots of bikes, and not all of them turned out perfect. Even today, after hundreds of builds, I still goof, now and again.
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Old 01-07-13, 09:13 AM   #5
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Not bad for a first try. I'd probably practice on less valuable parts than Campy however
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Old 01-07-13, 09:25 AM   #6
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I just see the main excavation work done. Go at them with a small round and flat file and a little patience and they'll come up a treat.
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Old 01-07-13, 09:33 AM   #7
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When you guys have done this work yourself then give the guy comment,
It's not that difficult but it's not that easy either!
it looks pretty good to me, I might not have gone so thin on the top but that is taste.

i did one seat post and it was a lot of work to make it look good.
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Old 01-07-13, 10:43 AM   #8
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I just see the main excavation work done. Go at them with a small round and flat file and a little patience and they'll come up a treat.
+1 They don't look too bad, just not quite finished Get your self a set of jewelers files to smooth out the insides. Depending on the bits you have for your Dremel you could maybe get a bit closer with that before going to the file work, let the cutter do it's job- don't push too hard or let it chatter. Slow and steady wins the race here, if get in a hurry you risk removing too much.

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Old 01-07-13, 10:51 AM   #9
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Being at work, I can't see the photos, but just a general comment about cutting aluminum with files, burrs and bits...keep the cutting surfaces lubed with WD-40 so the alloy does not clog them.

Joe
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Old 01-07-13, 10:55 AM   #10
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He, those lil' triangles at the base of the teardrop shape are a beehutch to get rid of. As others suggested, remove the P's, polish and fill in the filed area's with some model paint. I'll post some images of my own try (and subsequent failure) once I unearth them - it's a bit of a mess in casa Italuminium at the moment due to my move
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Old 01-07-13, 12:53 PM   #11
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I'm not sure, but you might be able to just get rid of the center web on those levers. Simplex had been making levers with what seems to be much less material on it without problems.

Although these are retrofrictions (which might lessen some of the stress on the levers),
IIRC, they also had a version with similar minimalist design that was just plain friction style.

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Old 01-07-13, 12:57 PM   #12
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I'm not gonna lie it hurts me a little to see those chopped up. What's the purpose of this again?
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Old 01-07-13, 01:05 PM   #13
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Being at work, I can't see the photos, but just a general comment about cutting aluminum with files, burrs and bits...keep the cutting surfaces lubed with WD-40 so the alloy does not clog them.

Joe
Good advice Joe. Especially with fine little Swiss jeweler's files. And ESPECIALLY with aluminum. But you know what I use? Chalk. Stick is about an inch in diameter and four inches long. Meant for filling the teeth in files so they don't load up. Works great.

As for the OP's efforts here, I agree, this is one tough crowd. A little more work cleaning up and these will be nice, Zieleman.
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Old 01-07-13, 01:08 PM   #14
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I'm not gonna lie it hurts me a little to see those chopped up. What's the purpose of this again?
Me too, a bit. I'm very ambivalent about altering Nuovo Record parts. But you should see the key fobs I'm going to do!
Well, at least the OP used the later style levers.
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Old 01-07-13, 01:51 PM   #15
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Good advice Joe. Especially with fine little Swiss jeweler's files. And ESPECIALLY with aluminum. But you know what I use? Chalk. Stick is about an inch in diameter and four inches long. Meant for filling the teeth in files so they don't load up. Works great.

As for the OP's efforts here, I agree, this is one tough crowd. A little more work cleaning up and these will be nice, Zieleman.


Is this some specific type of chalk ? Hadn't heard of this and would like to know more. I'd much rather have a dry 'lubricant' for these ops.

Joe
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Old 01-07-13, 01:54 PM   #16
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i think it's a great start, but not quite finished. get those little jeweler's hand files and go to town.
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Old 01-07-13, 02:05 PM   #17
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Me too, a bit. I'm very ambivalent about altering Nuovo Record parts. But you should see the key fobs I'm going to do!
Well, at least the OP used the later style levers.
I can't wait to see them, I've always wanted one just don't know how to go about doing it.
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Old 01-07-13, 02:23 PM   #18
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I can't wait to see them, I've always wanted one just don't know how to go about doing it.
I'll try to remember to let you know when pics available. I'm going to use levers, since I have some old ones Not sure if you saw Drillium Dude's nifto derailleur plate version. Worth another look here. Might try one of these too.
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Old 01-07-13, 02:24 PM   #19
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Is this some specific type of chalk ? Hadn't heard of this and would like to know more. I'd much rather have a dry 'lubricant' for these ops.

Joe
PM sent Joe. I'll send you a hunk.
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Old 01-07-13, 02:27 PM   #20
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I just see the main excavation work done. Go at them with a small round and flat file and a little patience and they'll come up a treat.
This exactly - great job on the main drilling portion! Proportions look good, so a little file-work will finish them off very nicely. I'm looking forward to another pic of the final result

BTW, keep the webs! Although these are the thicker later models, they still flex too much and can break if they're completely hollowed out. Don't ask me how I know

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Old 01-07-13, 02:27 PM   #21
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What's the purpose of this again?
Cool-points

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Old 01-07-13, 02:32 PM   #22
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Thanks for the feedback y'all! They are indeed not quite finished... I tried to do some finishing touches with sandpaper and a dremel touch-up bit and removed the p's, but will probably need the above mentioned juwelers-files to make it look better.
This one is meant to be a learning project before i start to drill on other stuff (though I already had a NR RD in mind...) and all your comments are very helpful when it comes to critics and ideas on shape, tools and standards. I'll post some more pics of the progress when able.

Cheers!
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Old 01-07-13, 02:33 PM   #23
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BTW, keep the webs! Although these are the thicker later models, they still flex too much and can break if they're completely hollowed out. Don't ask me how I know
DD
Important info D.D. I like the center web too, for aesthetic reasons. Just needs to dress it a bit and remove the P's and they'll look great.
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Old 01-07-13, 02:35 PM   #24
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I'll try to remember to let you know when pics available. I'm going to use levers, since I have some old ones Not sure if you saw Drillium Dude's nifto derailleur plate version. Worth another look here. Might try one of these too.
Very cool!

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Cool-points

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Good enough for me
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Old 01-07-13, 03:15 PM   #25
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BTW, keep the webs! Although these are the thicker later models, they still flex too much and can break if they're completely hollowed out. Don't ask me how I know

DD
Oh bollocks, I think I went to far with my shifters then. Ah well, they're meant for the ALAN, which is a suicide bike anyway. YOLO. Campanyolo.
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