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Old 01-16-13, 08:12 PM   #1
Docbilly
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Annoyng noise on chain. 1948 Raleigh 3 speed. Chain not Alligned?

Hi guys. I`m having this annoying noise while I pedal, the harder I pedal, the louder the noise. Its like a Click which comes from behind. Checking out the chain I`ve noticed there`s a section where the chain is joined which has like a reinforcement link, I`m not quite sure what the correct name for this is. I noticed the sound is produced as this thicker section of the chain exits the Cog. I have the impression as if the chain is somehow not straight and section does a click while getting back straight, once this thicker section exits the cog. Is it possible that the Chain Ring and the Cog are not properly aligned and that produces the click? Any other ideas. If you didnt understand crap, please ask me for details i`ll try to explain myself the best I can.

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Old 01-16-13, 08:36 PM   #2
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This is a troll right? There is no way a '48 Raleigh Clubman will make a clicking sound, ever.
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Old 01-16-13, 08:47 PM   #3
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LOL no it isnt. Actually its the only sound it makes and i want to fix it. Its a prefect machine. More than the click is the feeling on the cranks as if the chain is about to break.

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Old 01-16-13, 09:04 PM   #4
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LOL no it isnt. Actually its the only sound it makes and i want to fix it. Its a prefect machine. More than the click is the feeling on the cranks as if the chain is about to break.
I would do the 12 inch thing to check for chain wear. If it is elongated you might ramp up and skip a tooth intermittently. If the chain is bad, best to replace both it and the cog together.
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Old 01-16-13, 09:06 PM   #5
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Sounds like a stiff link that happens to be the master link. Lube dude.
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Old 01-16-13, 10:22 PM   #6
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Are any of the teeth bent in front or back?
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Old 01-17-13, 01:22 PM   #7
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Ive searched for bent tooth but I havent found any. Ill try lubing, though I lube it quite often.
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Old 01-17-13, 01:28 PM   #8
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Have you checked the pedals and BB? It sounds more like that is might be the problem and not the chain.

If you can't find the problem, just sell it. I'll be willing to oblige.
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Old 01-17-13, 06:05 PM   #9
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I went to my LBS and i was told by a reliable mechanic my chain was worn out. Do you know where I can find a chain for this bike? What measure is it. I was told I should probably change the cog as well. Any help will be preciated.
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Old 01-18-13, 07:13 AM   #10
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I went to my LBS and i was told by a reliable mechanic my chain was worn out. Do you know where I can find a chain for this bike? What measure is it. I was told I should probably change the cog as well. Any help will be preciated.


...Your LBS should have one, or you can get a chain here.
The condition you described is indicative if a heavily worn chain so it is possible that your cog is worn too even if the wear is not apparent to the eye.

If so, be advised that a new chain may not mesh too well with a worn cog, and it may even skip worse than before. Personally I would go with a 19T or 20Tooth to attain a lower gear. (I put a 22T on one of my bikes and ended up with a low gear so low as to be unusable except for pulling stumps. YMMV. )

I assume your hub is the original Sturmey Archer, in which case you can get a replacement sprocket from Harris Cycle.
You likely have the original old-style threaded driver too, so you'll need a new driver to mount the new cog.




PS- You may as well get a couple of SA ball retainers too - They're simple enough to replace and are the most likely thing to need replacing given the age of your bike, and these hubs don't take loose balls.



PPS - I really like your bike!
I'd suggest some grips to match that saddle though.

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Old 01-18-13, 08:56 AM   #11
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Great Info! Thanx a lot! I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina. We dont get much wuality stuff for old bikes here. I mean you can buy a Shimano XTR chain or a Sram or Campy, but stuff for old bikes is cheap crap, as there isn`t much of a vintage movement down here. Old bikes are just used by workers who prefer the crappy low quality chain!
I have to buy most stuff online and get it shipped here. I was told at the lbs that i should get a new cog. Those links were perfect thanx!
As for the grips, ive been thinking for a while on which grips to get. The white raleigh-sports like are ok butr im not convinced. Brooks leather grips are nice but they dont look that much original. What would you suggest?
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Old 01-18-13, 09:09 AM   #12
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... which grips to get. The white raleigh-sports like are ok butr im not convinced. Brooks leather grips are nice but they dont look that much original. What would you suggest?
White would be great with the fenders, Doc, but then the saddle wouldn't tie-in to anything.
Personally I'm not a huge fan of (expensive) leather grips either, and would opt for some cheap, simple pistol-type grips that wouldn't clash quite as much with your saddle. (Of course grips are one of those areas where people's personal tastes vary greatly - so you will be the best judge of what YOU like best!)
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Old 02-05-13, 11:01 PM   #13
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Hi guys! I finally recieved my chain whic came straight from the Uk. Its the right size and all but im havig a bit of trouble adjusting the length. I bought a KMC Z510HX 1/2 x 1/8 112L chain. The chain was a bit too long so I removed 4 links. It was now a bit too short. i didnt want to pull the back weel much more to the front so y added 2 more links and i pushed the rear wheel all the way to the back. But its still a bit loose now. I guess Ill jave to remove again 2 links and move the rear wheel way back to the front. Is there any limit as for pushing the rear wheel forward? i got this feeling that the frame might break and it has no fuse. Thanx a lot!
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Old 02-06-13, 06:34 AM   #14
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The dropouts give you a bit more than an inch of adjustment, and each pair of links will move the axle a half inch, so you should be able to get it right. If you need to make finer adjustments than that, there is a half link you can get. Changing the cog size by one tooth will have the same effect.

The only deleterious effect of moving the wheel forward of backward is that it will throw off your fender line. Depending how the fencer ossa attached, this may or may not be an easy fix.
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Old 02-06-13, 06:53 AM   #15
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I replaced the original chain on my Sports with a Sachs SRAM chain a few years ago and quickly did the same for my DL-1. The new Sachs chain made a big difference on mine in terms of adding smoothness to the drivetrain. If you go that route, getting a proper chain breaker tool (I use a little Park) helps too.
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Old 02-06-13, 11:07 AM   #16
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Hi guys! I finally recieved my chain whic came straight from the Uk. Its the right size and all but im havig a bit of trouble adjusting the length. I bought a KMC Z510HX 1/2 x 1/8 112L chain. The chain was a bit too long so I removed 4 links. It was now a bit too short. i didnt want to pull the back weel much more to the front so y added 2 more links and i pushed the rear wheel all the way to the back. But its still a bit loose now. I guess Ill jave to remove again 2 links and move the rear wheel way back to the front. Is there any limit as for pushing the rear wheel forward? i got this feeling that the frame might break and it has no fuse. Thanx a lot!
Next time, cut the new chain to the same length (number of links) as the old one.
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Old 02-06-13, 01:18 PM   #17
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Next time, cut the new chain to the same length (number of links) as the old one.
Yeah I tried, but the old chain was so stetched, it had over a inch of difference, if i count the same number of links!
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Old 02-06-13, 01:41 PM   #18
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That's a bunch, but I would be willing to bet that the old chain was cut to the right length in the beginning, and the wheel sat further forward in the dropouts. Then as it stretched, it was moved backward when necessary. 1" of stretch (over the whole chain) is only 1/2" of axle movement.
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