Super Champion Rims
02-16-13, 11:50 AM
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Super Champion Rims
I've been riding on a set of Super Champion rims since 1982, and last night I bent the Jesus out of the front one. Hit a curb, pinched the tire and popped the tube, but didn't wipe out. My lucky day! Anyway, I'm looking to replace the rim, or both, but want to do so with the same type. They are Super Champion Competition rims with a blue label, clincher, 27x1-1/4", 36h. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'll try and put Jesus back into it while I look and may be successful, but the brake surfaces are pretty worn anyway and I'm sure the wheel will never be the same. Thanks!
02-16-13, 11:57 AM
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They show up on ebay from time to time, often as part of a set of wheels. NOS units also turn up, but expect to pay dearly for them.
I would look for a pair as part of a wheel set or unlaced. Having an extra will make the next need that much easier.
Or, if the bike will accept 700c (about 4 mm less rim radius) maybe make the switch, tire choice will expand greatly.
I would look for a pair as part of a wheel set or unlaced. Having an extra will make the next need that much easier.
Or, if the bike will accept 700c (about 4 mm less rim radius) maybe make the switch, tire choice will expand greatly.
02-16-13, 12:42 PM
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I have a set of Super Champion 27" mod. 58 rims. Not sure of the width though. Mine have red labels - what is the difference?
Ok - I just answered my question by going to VeloBase:
Ok - I just answered my question by going to VeloBase:
Super Champion Modele 58 rims were being produced way before Wolber made anything but tires! They were available in 650b, 700c and 27" sizes.
They came with 36, 40 and 48 holes. Modele 58 rims were about 22.8mm wide on the outside but required about a 13mm wide rim strip to fit down it the spoke "valley".
They were produced for many years with the original highly polished surface. In the early 80s they were also available with a anodized matte silver finish.
At some point after Wolber took over Super Champion the oval decals started saying both Wolber and Super Chaimpion. Also the original oval Super Champion decals were red. The 27" rims started coming with blue Super Champion decals while the 650b and 700c rim decals remained red. Rigida used the red/blue decals to indicate size too.
Eventually Super Champion started using the red or blue oval decals at random! Maybe when they ran out of one color they used whatever they had on the shelf?
They came with 36, 40 and 48 holes. Modele 58 rims were about 22.8mm wide on the outside but required about a 13mm wide rim strip to fit down it the spoke "valley".
They were produced for many years with the original highly polished surface. In the early 80s they were also available with a anodized matte silver finish.
At some point after Wolber took over Super Champion the oval decals started saying both Wolber and Super Chaimpion. Also the original oval Super Champion decals were red. The 27" rims started coming with blue Super Champion decals while the 650b and 700c rim decals remained red. Rigida used the red/blue decals to indicate size too.
Eventually Super Champion started using the red or blue oval decals at random! Maybe when they ran out of one color they used whatever they had on the shelf?
02-16-13, 02:15 PM
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The Velo-Orange rims are sorta similar, not sure they have 27" though. I always loved the Super Champions, wish they were still made.
02-16-13, 02:41 PM
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I have a complete front wheel, Blue label super champion 27" laced to a Suntour ( I think) sealed hub. 36H. I bought a bike off Ebay and the rear got destroyed during shipping. Im open getting rid of it if someone is in need. It was stock on a early 80's Cannondale ST>
02-17-13, 05:26 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/290860061340 - ends very soon.
They are in europe and would be hard to box up and get to the post office then a little expensive to post.
If no on buy's them they go to the trash, as I am tired of keeping them for year after year.
02-17-13, 06:22 AM
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I don't blame you for not wanting to keep them, in that condition. Looks like they've already been trashed.
I have a suggestion. Why not clip those old spokes, wipe down the rims and offer them to someone here for the cost of
shipping .....,before you throw them away?
I have a suggestion. Why not clip those old spokes, wipe down the rims and offer them to someone here for the cost of
shipping .....,before you throw them away?
02-17-13, 10:56 AM
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great idea, they were in good condition but have sat in the shed for 2 years now. Its a shame to throw a working item away but I would like to get my none race bike section cleaned up.
02-17-13, 05:59 PM
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Looks like the damage was more extensive than I initially thought. Here's a shot of my '82 Bruce Gordon fork. 
It bent back very symmetrically, with no wrinkles or buckling. Paint didn't crack anywhere. Rake is now 2.55mm, but I don't know what it was originally. I'll call Bruce tomorrow.
What's the consensus on bends like this? Seems like an axle, a long 2x4, and careful fixturing and it can be bent back into shape. Would that be safe? Still happy for the 30 years of comfortable riding, and really happy it absorbed the force and didn't throw me over the handlebars to chew on concrete. Steel RULES!!!
It bent back very symmetrically, with no wrinkles or buckling. Paint didn't crack anywhere. Rake is now 2.55mm, but I don't know what it was originally. I'll call Bruce tomorrow. What's the consensus on bends like this? Seems like an axle, a long 2x4, and careful fixturing and it can be bent back into shape. Would that be safe? Still happy for the 30 years of comfortable riding, and really happy it absorbed the force and didn't throw me over the handlebars to chew on concrete. Steel RULES!!!
02-17-13, 10:19 PM
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Call Bruce. He is good people, and will probably want to repair the fork (i.e., replace the blades). Any cracks in the paint about the heat tube??
02-17-13, 10:46 PM
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No cracks in the Imron paint anywhere. He made one heck of a nice fork! No bending until well below the reinforcements inside the blades. No wrinkles on the rear of the blades from compression. Frame is good.
02-18-13, 08:40 AM
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That is too bad about the fork. What is the device it is siting in/on?
I think I would treat myself to new wheels. You have been riding the same ones since '82 so it is time to upgrade. I put my foot down over the weekend and decided since I bought 3 set of wheels in the last month the wheels on my belived '87 Sport SX are headed for the dust bin. They have tons of all kinds miles on them and the rear was rebuilt with a new rim in '87 anyway.
I think I would treat myself to new wheels. You have been riding the same ones since '82 so it is time to upgrade. I put my foot down over the weekend and decided since I bought 3 set of wheels in the last month the wheels on my belived '87 Sport SX are headed for the dust bin. They have tons of all kinds miles on them and the rear was rebuilt with a new rim in '87 anyway.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
02-18-13, 09:56 AM
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Fork is repairable, but the cost would probably 1/2 of a new carbon Nashbar fork. I think there's a 20% off sale right now.
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_174894_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_250122_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_174894_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_250122_-1___
02-18-13, 11:22 AM
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The fork in the pic above is resting on an optical breadboard so I could measure the bend. There are 1/4-20 tapped holes all over the surface on a 1" square pattern. I supported the crown for a reference, made the steering tube level by shimming with business cards and clamped it in place, and centered the dropouts with the mounting hardware seen. I centered everything as good as I could and the bends appear to be very uniform.
02-18-13, 11:33 AM
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I'd think it could be repaired with the right jig, but what do I know? They bend them by hand in the first place.
05-16-13, 07:11 PM
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Fork is repairable, but the cost would probably 1/2 of a new carbon Nashbar fork. I think there's a 20% off sale right now.
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_174894_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_250122_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_174894_-1___
https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_250122_-1___
verktyg
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05-16-13, 07:15 PM
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They show up on ebay from time to time, often as part of a set of wheels. NOS units also turn up, but expect to pay dearly for them.
I would look for a pair as part of a wheel set or unlaced. Having an extra will make the next need that much easier.
Or, if the bike will accept 700c (about 4 mm less rim radius) maybe make the switch, tire choice will expand greatly.
I would look for a pair as part of a wheel set or unlaced. Having an extra will make the next need that much easier.
Or, if the bike will accept 700c (about 4 mm less rim radius) maybe make the switch, tire choice will expand greatly.
05-16-13, 08:58 PM
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+100!
That fork is a no-brainer to repair. (just make sure you pass it on to someone with a brain to repair it, or do it yourself).
Of course, you'll need some rudimentary tools if you choose to DIY.
That fork is a no-brainer to repair. (just make sure you pass it on to someone with a brain to repair it, or do it yourself).
Of course, you'll need some rudimentary tools if you choose to DIY.
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